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Posted (edited)

Greetings,

 

My current PC is running both A-10C, 64-bit 1.1.1.1 and Black Shark 2.0 1.1.1.1 also in 64-bit and the LockOn FC2 in I believe it is 32-bit as to the DCS / LockOn product line.

 

My question is related to what the tech guy at CH Products suggests plugging in my Fighterstick, the Pro Throttle, and the Pro Pedals directly into the back of my PC.

 

The other sim I play, Aces High II, the tech guys there say to plug my controllers into a powered Belkin 2.0, 4-port hub, bar code number 722868569986 is what I was using since January 2012, as to my other recent thread:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=87276

 

I now have the controllers plugged directly into the back of my PC.

 

What does DCS / ED / you guys, recommend as to how to plug in my CH Products trio of controllers as to best performance?

 

I spend a lot more time the last few months playing mostly the Black Shark 2.0 and sometimes in Multiplayer I play the Black Shark 1.0.2 , and will be playing the DCS A-10C again and occasionally play with Flaming Cliffs 2. I like the DCS simulators. You know I will buy the P-51, too and any other aircraft DCS/ED develop! Aces High II I have lost interest in as it is basically a higher end arcade game---played it for 5 years.

 

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

 

My Gaming Machine:

=============

Alienware Aurora-R3 desktop

Windows 7 Pro, 64-bit

Dual 1GB GDDR5 Nvidia GeForce GT 545 - SLI Enabled graphics card

1 TB RAID 0 (2 x 500GB) Hybrid S ATA-II

CPU is an Intel Core i7-2600 (8MB Cache) overclocked Turbo Boost to 3.9 GHZ (factory set)

8GB dual channel DDR3 ram at 1333M Hz.

PSU is 875 watts

Liquid Cooled

 

Currently my Internet connection is DSL running at usually a steady 3.9GHz. download speed, yeah, it is slow. (Cable RoadRunner Turbo will be switched to in September 2012 which runs around 30GHz. in my area in New York State, USA)

Edited by ErichVon
Posted

Hi, ErichVon

 

Basically, all considerations as to whether to plug controllers directly into the back of the PC or via a powered USB hub get down to sufficiency of power provided to your controllers, plus some specifics of USB controller chips used on your mobo or hub. They are a lot less game-dependend, and a lot more system dependent.

 

If adding another USB device (as per your other thread) resulted in some ackward behaviour of your controllers, it could simply mean that either the power provided by the system is not sufficient (more likely), or there are some software conflicts between various controllers (less likely, but still possible).

 

In my set up, for instance, I tried to run HOTAS Warthog, 3xSaitek Instrument Panels + Saitek Switch Panel + Custom-made rudder pedals off a single powered 7-port USB 3.0 hub. My rudder behavior was very erratic, with axis reporting stupid readings. I unplugged the rudder from the hub and pluged them into the back of my PC, and things were just fine.

 

Trial and error :)

=================

"Если вы боитесь высоты, значит, вы просто еще не пугались ее отсутствия"

"If you fear heights, you simply haven't yet feared the absence thereof"

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Core i7 2600K, ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3, 32GB DDR3 1600, Radeon HD 7950, 256Gb SSD Crucial M4, 2TB Samsung SATAIII, 1,5TB WD SATAIII, 650W Enermax Modu87+

Posted

Greetings,

 

Yep, trial and error seems to be popular with my learning technique.

 

I ask questions to save time, but in the end, I usually end up back to experimenting.

 

There are too many variables as to the various nature of everybody's machine builds and setup to actually say for sure this will work and that will not.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Cheers

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