CaptainHepp

I'm noticing the same thing. Is there really still not a fix for this? Doesn't seem like it would be that hard. Must have flown under the radar.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Step 5 I tried four different times to format this with the text and images in the same post. The images would never stay in order, or wouldn't even show up. Hope it works anyway.

Does your shiny new Orion Throttle quadrant rattle with both throttles hooked together? Tired of seeing a two percent difference between your Bug's engine RPMs? This could help. Your mileage will very. This is a completely reversible, zero-risk fix that will cost you a few bucks and some time. The basic idea is to dampen or remove the rattle by filling in some excessive clearances between several parts on the Right hand throttle latch. Things you need: 1. The tools that came with the HOTAS (really just the small hex wrench). 2. Some plumber's tape (PTFE thread seal tape or similar) and silicone tape (from any local home improvement/hardware store). Step 1: Disassemble the latch on the right side throttle lever. This is down by removing the three screws and the small pin. You will now have the three parts pictured, and a loose throttle lever. Step 2: Cut thin sections of tape, either silicone (clear in this picture), or plumber's tape (a very thin rubber, white in this picture) first. Doesn't matter where you start. Wrap a single layer of silicone tape around the larger end of the latch as shown. The tape will will stick firmly to itself, bot nothing else. Only overlap the silicone in the flat area of the end, and be sure to cover/overlap the outer edge (far left in picture). This keeps the tape from getting pushed in as you reassemble everything. Repeat with a single turn (or 1.5 turns, but not more than two) of plumber's tape (white in picture) as shown. Too much will prevent reassembly. Step 3: Reassemble the Throttle lever, minus the latch pin itself. If your throttles are rubbing slightly, you either put too much tape somewhere, or you may need to add a tiny layer just under the lower screws to tilt the lever slightly too the right. I used a small piece is silicone. When satisfied, torque the screws down, but be careful not to over-torque. If you strip something it's not my fault. Step 4: Apply several turns of plumber's tape tp the latch pin. Too much here will make it too thick, so less is more in this case. If it slightly resists insertion, that's perfect. It will loosen up with a bit of use. Step 5: Put it all back together. It should look near as makes no difference exactly the same as before, only with much less play and rattle between the two levers. Again, your mileage will vary. Hope this helps someone!

Hey there! Sorry I don't check back here very often. Here's the run-down. https://github.com/fholger/openvr_fsr/releases Go here, download whatever is at the top (currently version RC2). Once you have openvr_fsr_rc2.zip, drop both contained files into the same folder as any SteamVR compatible exe file. If needed, you can use the free DCS Updater utility ( https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/134493-the-dcs-updater-gui-utility/ ) to force SteamVR (if you're like me, and running Standalone with an Oculus headset, this is otherwise virtually impossible). Otherwise, use the .cfg file you dropped earlier to adjust the quality of FSR, but that otherwise literally it for DCS. But for my case, Oculus has a remarkably efficient up-scaler built in. Using SteamVR with FSR I actually -loose- ~25% performance (frame times go from 13-15ms to 18-20+ in the headset), I also loose clarity. I run in Oculus at 1.2 times the native display. So if you're running a non-Steam native headset this probably isn't going to help you. But if you're on an Index or similar, maybe give it a shot? Best of luck!

+1 I was just trying to get it to work on Open Beta Standalone, but the mod out there apparently requires the use of SteamVR.... which I can't seem to be able to force DCS standalone to use with my Rift.

+1 Even if ED plans to make their next ATC system work with our voices and an AI, releasing these APIs would still allow mission and campaign creators far better control of what's going on than would otherwise be possible. If no one on staff have used the OverlordBot or the accompanying ATC system you're missing a golden opportunity. No other flight sim out there now has a similar ability to what OverlordBot brings to the table. The only thing similar is VoxATC on FSX or P3D.

Significant numbers of ground units seem to be my biggest variable. I thought the F-16 was causing FPS lag in it's instant action Free Flight over Nevada, for example, but then discovered there's a -bunch- of extra ground units waaay off yonder over the horizon. Delete those in the mission editor and the FPS is fine. This is duplicatable with a bunch of planes. FC3 planes are a bit better, but still susceptible. I'm not sure what the bottleneck is, either. CPU usage is around 30% with no threads over 60% at any point, and it's installed on an NVMe drive. GPU isn't near maxed, either.

I just wanted to go on record and say how much fun I had during the free trial period. I went from being an occasional FC3 player (I played LOMAC back in the day) to owning five modules and a map. I've flown mostly WWII (War Thunder and IL-2) for about a decade, but am having a lot of fun flying detailed jets in VR. Honestly my only beef has been that some planes and missions seem to really bog down the fps to an unplayable level. Missions with lots of ground units are the worst, but some plane/situation combos (MiG-19 over Caucasus for example, it's fine over Nevada) are absolute slideshows. I'm running an 8086k@5.2GHz, 32GB DDR4@3400MHz, NVMe M.2, and a 1080ti. DCS is the only app with these issues in VR. All that said, I noticed there's a decided lack of 3440x1440 wallpapers out there on a DCS theme, so I decided to fix that. Here's a few shots for giggles. I have a bunch more if anyone has a particular plane they want. No F-14s, though. I missed that one's trial and sale, sadly.