Blue73

Hi Nanne, I haven't peered under hood but I assume the slaves are only identified by their assigned address. I imagine the packet format is something like, <SLAVE ADDR><PAYLOAD LENGTH><PAYLOAD:Name,Value> I've got 30+ switches on one 250kbps bus and 12 on another, I'm not sure how much messaging the Mega can handle but so far so good. There is a third bus I haven't used yet. If I reach the limit of the Mega I'll create a new one. DCS-BIOS makes things very simple, Code for Master, #define DCSBIOS_RS485_MASTER /* Define where the TX_ENABLE signals are connected. You can connect up to three half-duplex RS-485 transceivers. Arduino Pin RS-485 Transceiver Pin TXn ------------------- DI (driver input) RXn ------------------- RO (Receiver Output) UARTn_TXENABLE_PIN ---- /RE, DE (active low receiver enable, driver enable) If you have less than three transceivers connected, comment out the corresponding #define UARTn_TEXENABLE_PIN lines for receivers that are not present. */ #define UART1_TXENABLE_PIN 2 #define UART2_TXENABLE_PIN 3 //#define UART3_TXENABLE_PIN 4 #include "DcsBios.h" void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); } void loop() { DcsBios::loop(); } Code for Gear Slave, #define DCSBIOS_RS485_SLAVE 11 /* The Arduino pin that is connected to the /RE and DE pins on the RS-485 transceiver. */ #define TXENABLE_PIN 2 #include <DcsBios.h> const byte gearLeverPins[2] = {7, 6}; DcsBios::SwitchMultiPos gearLever("GEAR_LEVER", gearLeverPins, 2, true); DcsBios::LED gearLeverLight(0x7478, 0x0800, 9); DcsBios::Switch2Pos gearSilenceBtn("GEAR_SILENCE_BTN", 5); DcsBios::Switch2Pos gearDownlockOverrideBtn("GEAR_DOWNLOCK_OVERRIDE_BTN", 4); void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); } void loop() { DcsBios::loop(); } cheers John

Hi Nanne, happy to answer any questions. 1. It's much simpler than that, colour laser printer. I did the design the artwork in Fusion360, then printed it out and stuck it in. :) 2. I use 6 pins on the DB9: +12v, Aux, +5v, GND, A and B. I wanted a push/friction connecter, the DB9 is perfect for that. 3. I was aiming for near total isolation without that nasty reverse EMF stuff getting into my MCU and logic bus. I went the optocoupler driving a MOSFET route. However for my right hand air module I've bought fans which accept a TTL level PWM signal directly so only need the optocoupler. I'll be building/testing this shortly. 4. These worked first time, the beauty with CAM is once you know the tolerances of your machine most designs are successful on the first iteration. You can swing parts in Fusion360 to make sure everything mechanically works without collision. Sometimes some minor sanding is required as the 3D printer leaves behind dags. Also you need to design around the 3d printer's weaknesses. For example, I could get near perfect louvers if I oriented them vertically but then they wouldn't be as strong. So I printed them horizontally, but then I'd lose resolution in the hinges. This meant the tiny hinges needed to be sanded smooth to restore the curvature. I also splash on some acetone to these working joints to improve the inter-layer strength. One other thing, printing in ABS has given me much better flexibility than PLA, it's not as rigid so allows for snug fitting parts, allows for glue-welding with acetone, can be smoothed with acetone, can be strengthened with acetone, can be more easily sanded, is better for mechanical joints and can handle much higher temperatures. There's many things I couldn't do if I was using PLA. cheers John QUOTE=Nanne118;3714482]Cheers for your previous answers, they have been helpful and definitely insightful as to what goes into designing / developing this stuff! :D I hope you don't mind me shooting another couple questions your way: 1. How did you design and print the brake pressure indicator? Multiple colour extrusion? (It looks really good!) 2. Any particular reason why you used VGA connectors for the implementation of the RS-458 (MAX-485/-487)? Would that not leave you with a number of spare connections on the VGA connector, seeing as you only need 4 wires (VCC, GND, A, B)? 3. I presume you use the optocoupler in conjuction with the (mos)fet to avoid reverse current or overvoltage, seeing as the fan can source these issues? Would a capacitor over the poles of the fan not also suffice to suppress any unwanted voltage/current spikes? I mean, using an optocoupler is a much nicer solution, I am just wondering if there are any other advantages to using it. 4. How much of a pain was it to get those louvers from the ACU correct in Fusion? I cannot imagine that has been a painless and easy process (or I am just really crap at Fusion, which given my track record seems more likely)

Hi, Wiring complete for the hook module. The suspension design has been improved for the right hand air module. Much more stable and more clearance. cheers John

Thankyou Nanne for your comments, really keeps me motivated! I wasn't sure if people wanted a build style thread, as I didn't receive a response to the question, so I kind of went middle of the road. I think showing a CAD diagram and the completed pieces with some construction detail is enough detail without bombarding everyone with redundant pictures. 1. Yes two HE sensors with individual rare earth magnets, this solution lends itself very well to these boxes as they're only 3-4 cm deep. Basically the moving part gets the magnet side. It's also far cheaper than buying regular switches and offers great flexibility and reliability. 2. Yes the sensor at the base of the shaft to sense the PULL action and one on the side to sense the ROTARY action. I was going to use a state-machine to detect the valid positions then send the necessary commands to DCS, but the ROTARY command doesn't work yet. I'll have to circle back to this later. 3. Gearing was determined from simple division, 180deg swing on the dial needs to swing the rotary switch 120deg (30 deg per position). I then started with the smallest diameter and tooth size for the smallest cog then determined the number of teeth for the largest cog. Basically, Num teeth small cog * 180/120 = num teeth large cog. The teeth need to be the same size so the diameter of the large cog is determined by the required number of teeth. Thanks again. cheers John

Thanks nicka :), I do get frustrated with the pace, I want to get so much done but can't find any extra time.

It's a pause in the slicer then a material change during printing.

Here is the final design for the hook lamp. I'll repeat this method for the advisory lights beneath it. The top HOOK plate is bonded to the clear section by changing the material from clear to black during the final layers. It's then slotted into a black case to prevent light leak. cheers John

You're operating in a completely different league than my 3D print boxes. I think I heard you need the professional version for that feature, but now it's in all versions.

Nice, great printer!

Cheers mate :) I have a Zortrax M200. I've rambled about this printer in the past :), it's a real work horse, just keeps printing and printing without fault. No way I can afford Solidworks, Fusion 360 has everything I need and it's free.

No electronics yet, just manually powered up the hook-down indicator LED. I have some 8mm orange LEDS on the way, for now I'll use a red LED. The indicator lamp has gone through many revisions to reach something that is easy to print and requires no paint for masking. This is design four, the fifth is on the printer right now. This one has a clear/frosted core with a solid black shell. The empty boxes around it are rejected older designs and are used as place holders. It's all sitting in the new right hand side vertical stand. cheers John

Cheers!!

Thanks dwpenny. The electronics side is very simple thanks to DCS-BIOS. It handles all master/slave comms across a RS-485 bus. With the time it takes to design and print the controls and boxes I'm glad the software and electronics side are straight forward. I feel just putting the STL's out there wont do my project justice, it's going to need some effort to describe how I put it all together. It will happen though. cheers John

Hook indicator lamp is finished in CAD and all box mods to house the components are completed. Now onto printing it.

Cheers mate :) Space is premium and HE sensors are so tiny that they take up no space. Plus they never wear out and I don't need to rely on a contact join, just swing a magnet near it and I get positive voltage. The new ones I've bought are "digital" so I don't need any extra circuity, can connect direct to an Arduino pin.

3D Part was sanded and filled. The top coat paint colour is NATO Black. Rare Earth magnets were used to give it that "detent" feel. HE sensors aren't in yet, there's another set of small magnets for those. I inserted a 3mm solid brass rod through the centres to give it more strength. I've threaded the top section to allow insertion through the panel slot. cheers John

The hook design is complete, it has been printed just waiting for the clear coats to dry. Here's the Fusion360 model. Working on the "HOOK" lamp now. cheers John

I have created a pull and rotate mechanism, mechanically it's good just the DCS-BIOS receives the ROTATE command but seems to not be able to do anything with it. The PULL command is okay. There's a picture of it a few pages back.

I hate it when the company is in redundancy mode, we had a big one in 2012 when the mining industry ground to halt, the threat lingered around for a couple of years. The fan for VR is very useful in summer, cools me right down and I can wind it up by altering the cabin temp dial. The elastic band does a good job of eliminating vibrations. Will be building the right hand side shortly. I hear there's a Hornet aerial performance display for the reception of our first two F-35's on the 10th? Are you going to see that Mr Burns? cheers John

Hi Snipes, Another thing to look at is the quality of your voltage rails. Do you have an oscilloscope you can check? Try inserting tantalum caps. With my POTs near minimum and maximum positions, GND and +5V rail noise would constantly alter the reading on the Arduino analog ins. All my digital switches were okay of course as they need to cross the ON/OFF voltage thresholds before the input state is changed. Just like you the input from the POTs would settle down after a few minutes. Tantalums did fix my issue.

This is what I'm doing by building a 3d printed cockpit for the Hornet. I play in VR so it just needs semi-accurate locations and the rest is muscle memory. The various shaped buttons help navigate where you are. I've made mine modular so I can switch it out for other aircraft. The tactile feel enhances immersion even more when in VR.

Hi Guys, The vertical panel is largely complete. I have an odd thing with the Parking Brake where DCS-BIOS is not interpreting rotate properly. If I assign the Arduino pin to another DCS-BIOS function it works no issues so it's something with DCS-BIOS that doesn't like the EMERGENCY_PARKING_BRAKE_ROTATE command. I'll move on from here and hopefully find a solution later. Got to say, flying with the flap control at finger distance from the throttle is very convenient. Glamour shot :) cheers John

Thanks Solo! In VR it's much easier to use then fumbling with the mouse. Struggling with emergency/parking brake at the moment, DCS-BIOS is sending messages for PULL but sends an empty (nameless) message for rotate. I haven't encountered this before. cheers John

Cheers RS :) The gearing is there to match the actual dial rotation range to the fixed 30deg segments of the rotary switch. So matching it 360->120deg is possible, of course I can't do continuous full circles like the real thing so magnets will be my solution with a HE sensor on an arm. The rare-earth magnets are quite strong so you'll get that indent feel without any "contact" friction. Your design sounds great, that'll work, but I'll like to keep mine all plastic. HE sensors are very easy to use, I've recently purchased a bunch that deliver an open-drain output, now they can be connected straight to an Arduino pin without any extra circuitry. cheers John

I'm not sure that would be rigid enough, my bottom plate is 4.5mm to give the strength and 2mm top plate. Though I do print in ABS which is not as rigid as PLA. My infills are 80% for the face plates, 60% everywhere else. The box design is has been largely static so it's close. I do need to tweak two more things though, haven't gotten around to it yet. cheers John