Jump to content

ITR1102

Members
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About ITR1102

  • Birthday 11/30/1985

Personal Information

  • Flight Simulators
    DCS
  • Location
    Kansas

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I didn’t have any fitment issues but will note that I printed with a .25mm nozzle. The rotating parts are retained by the slotted top plate. The rotating parts go through the slot, are rotated 90°, and then aligned with the bottom part. I’m away from home so can’t look at it to better describe or send photos of it. I did notice that the key caps on the ends may need to be a bit taller to properly engage and lock the key in place once depressed. I haven’t reprinted mine since it’s already assembled but will likely shim it to make it easier to engage without having to press so hard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Found this thread looking for an answer to this issue. Is there a plan to fix this given how long it has existed? Refueling in the air does fill the external tanks.
  3. This? /topic/270487-quaggles-dcs-input-command-injector-mod-store-custom-input-commands-safely-in-saved-games-instead-of-merging-them-with-developer-changes-each-update/
  4. It is indeed a slider. I dug through some photos I took of a Tomcat at my local combat air museum. Hope this helps
  5. I've added the files to the Displays folder on my Google Drive, here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rrUQlNpU-wKkSrAOQxiDp-cownTLd8pz?usp=sharing If there are any problems downloading them, please let me know. Files for other panels are saved there too.
  6. Re-did the Displays panel to use the piano switches. Still need to finish the wiring and test it in DCS but man it turned out great. Appreciate everyone who has helped and shared their STLs. If anyone wants this specific version, I’ll gladly post them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I love it. But I have to ask, are the circuit breakers modeled in DCS? From the pilot’s chair, I’ve never seen that they are clickable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. @Hagen Can you post a picture or a link to the threaded M3 inserts you used? I can't find these locally so would like to see what you used and attempt to purchase the same style. I'm really excited to get this built and working! I had built one using momentary push buttons with LEDs to indicate the selection, based off of this. null
  9. Added engine cutoff switches to the throttle quadrant today. Wanted to keep this as simple as possible without trying to do virtual buttons from an axis. Used two reed switches and two magnets connected to the Leo board. Once the breakout board matrix arrives, the entire throttle quadrant will be connected to the Leo Bodnar BU0836A. The only other thing I think would be useful is a slide potentiometer to use for zoom. Currently use the slider on my Virpil throttle for that and it works great. What have others done for zoom in a full cockpit build? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. [emoji1787] No, the mouse was just completely dead until I unplugged the Bodnar board. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Reached a bit of a milestone for myself tonight. Successfully tested all axis controls on Yogi’s throttle quadrant in DCS! For simplicity, I used a Leo Bodnar BU0836A and after a bit of trial and error, got everything working perfectly. Things to watch out for or need to know: - One of the throttle gears was slipping on the pot shaft and had me thinking it was a faulty or damaged pot. I believe it’s the 18 tooth gear. Reprinted it but had the same problem so either my pot shaft is undersized or the hole in the gear is slightly too large. Easy fix is either gluing or reducing the hole size in CAD before reprinting. - Run windows joystick config and calibrate all axes before launching DCS. After doing this, I only needed to invert axes and didn’t need to alter the curves or anything. - Ensure the pots are properly wired/connected. I had 1 mislabeled wire and it took a while to figure out why I couldn’t get the board to be recognized in Windows. This also led to interference with my computer mouse… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. The Bodnar board was very attractive to me to reduce the number of USB cables going to the PC. For those with multiple Arduinos, are you using I2C to daisy chain them or USB hubs? If I2C, I’ll have more questions [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Anyone had success using these rotary encoders? Messing with it last night, I couldn’t get it to work with the Leo Bodnar BBI-64. The really cheap EC11 encoders I got off of Ali worked just fine. I have not attempted it with a Pro Micro though. https://www.diymore.cc/products/rotating-potentiometer-knob-cap-digital-control-module-rotary-encoder-controller-switch-5v-diy-kit-electronic-pcb-board-module Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. That's exactly what happened. It was incredibly simple after using the right zip file. Thanks for the help guys
  15. I manually added the Quaggles files to the DCS folder per the instructions on GitHub and the Munkwolf files to the saved games folder, not using OMM at all. Very glad it’s working but I’m obviously missing key points of using OMM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...