Jump to content

mr_mojo97

Members
  • Posts

    1692
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mr_mojo97

  1. The switch panel if you look closely is my old A-10C radio panel - just some plexiglass with a laminated photo of the real thing glued to it. The mega cheap option. Lol.

     

    I might just leave the relay for now, beacause I swap around with the Warthog throttle quite a bit, having an extra cable to unplug would be a pain in the arse.

     

    You've given my an idea about the hall sensors - for some reason I thought it would be better using two magnets - maybe just one going towards a steel bracket would be better.

     

     

     

    I got to where I need to be to be able to fly, the touch ups and fine tuning will come later. Now, time to fly the Huey.

     

    @cheers Bignewy - in fact it was your build that made me think about doing one ages ago!

  2. Update 2.

    Finally got the time to do some more.

     

    So I've gone through a couple of different dampers, a gas strut and a universal steering damper. Neither I'm afraid were to my liking. I ended up using basic neodymium magnets (robbed from my IKEA knife rack!) attached to a bracket - the linkage on the collective has an attached length of metal taken from a carpenters bevel gauge and this glides past the bracket (as in the pic). There is very little friction and one magnet holds the collective nicely.

     

    I tried the relay with the PTB buttons without luck yet (although I've only tried it with 5v from the Leo Bodnar board rather than 12v power supply - I was hoping to avoid another cable).

     

    Still not decided what to do with the collar system either.

     

    Still haven't sorted my axis yet either. The hall sensor is between 2 magnets and slows down quite a bit between them at the centre - maybe more testing in axis tune is in order.

     

    I've also added some extra encoders, two way and three way switches and a couple of buttons - still got an extra 6 inputs for the board too!

    IMG_0328.thumb.JPG.62a0ec8e27107c6e04eb635ef5e7d393.JPG

    IMG_0329.thumb.JPG.c28a247369e312d9598364bf793d25bb.JPG

    IMG_0330.thumb.JPG.dedaa46cc6c30b318a01fb21711c9f10.JPG

    • Like 1
  3. Just a quick update.

     

    Managed to get all the wires sorted out using a multi-meter (took a couple of hours mind you - while having a few beers and watching Guy Martins Spitfire programme).

     

    Anyways, I'm going with the basic build of the century here. I've built a new stand for it and added the hall sensors close to the pivot point. They seem to be working quite well, it's still in the testing stage so will need some permanent solution but it seems at this point I will stay with hall sensors rather than pots.

     

    Now, a small issue arose when I found out that the Westland Lynx uses a FADEC system (Full Authority Digital Engine Control) - no manual control of throttle at all. So I can't find out what the round, nothcy turny thing is below the collective head. It clearly has a linkage system, so presumably moving the collective up and down makes this thing auto throttle(?). So I'm not sure what to do with this - at the moment I've bound the throttle to the 3 way (on-off-on) thumb switch which actually works really well - although I'll probably change this to the 2 thumb operated momentary switches adjacent the 3 way.

    Still to come is the dampening system and the mag brake. I've ordered a 12v 50N (equivalent to holding around 5kg) electro magnet and a 12v 1A dc charger. If it works I might also try a 5v version to cut out the charger cable and plug it straight into the Bodnar board.

    The damping I'll probably go with the same system as Mole here- seems straight forward enough.

    Sorry for the crap iPad photos.

    IMG_0326.thumb.JPG.2366b44660787ae2da9d5d80bc30ed7b.JPG

    IMG_0324.thumb.JPG.d1d93f1eee537860c3296ad45c2aea84.JPG

  4. Cheers Hansolo, that was an awesome project you just did. Got my new X board coming tomorrow. What kind of damper are you using there? I have a push to OFF button for the collective release and was hoping to use that with a solenoid switch - we'll see how that pans out!!

    It looks like the up and down switches of the 4 way hatswitch don't work and the two momentary switches don't seem to work (at least with my rudimentary bulb test circuit I made!) - I'll try again when the multimeter arrives

  5. Hi all just bought this 2 days ago but really my soldering skills aren't up to scratch.

    Anyone interested? As new. I'm going to go down the X board again hence the sale. £30

    Free postage to the uk, postage at cost to rest of the world

    Check their website out for details.

  6. Work in progress

     

    So I went for the BU0836A board this time as it's smaller. Bad idea. My soldering ain't the best - should have done the X board again. Anyways I've made the mount and started wiring some of the switches but come into a problem. The 3 way switches were ok but the two way momentary switch has 8 wires out the back and I can't figure it out. Any ideas?

     

    Also the 4 way hat switch has 16 wires out the back! Is there an easy way to find out what's what?

     

    The Col Rel button is reversed - so you press it to switch off. I guess there is no way around that either.

    .

    Next will be the hall sensors. One for the pitch and one for the throttle. Hope I've bought the analogue and not the digital ones!!!

    IMG_0316.thumb.JPG.09118a934dafc2be04e566a1252d5ba3.JPG

    IMG_0321.thumb.JPG.0c80d477ef73e3752afd752908ee92a7.JPG

    IMG_0319.thumb.JPG.295944a54f43f95f88306e6d65ed4cf2.JPG

  7. The Bodnar Bu0836X board supports 3 or 4 axis as well! It's a great bit of kit for £50. Not sure about your other questions yet, but I'm sure I'll be trying a few types until I get it right. Also there are plenty of people have good advice on here to learn from

  8. Lynx pilots collective

     

    Hey Molevitch,

     

    It's the pilots collective I got for £160 and looks in half decent condition - I did see one sold for about £95 a couple of months and in very good nick as well. (This pic I robbed from t'internet) mine arrives tomorrow.

     

    Actually I just started getting back into helos recently when I uploaded upuauts Bell 47. Even though I've had the Huey since day one (which is my go to module - when not flying my trusty M2K!).

    Also I had a cool A-10C pit build a while ago which had pretty much every switch I needed bar the gauges that ran off 4 bodnar boards (hence my looking at these again). Gets addictive, eh? Took to bits and sold most of it though to help pay for the Rift. Still got some bits and bobs left - switches, buttons, encoders etc. So the Col Rel is as I thought then, looks like it probably uses a solenoid switch or something (like the SAS switches in the hog)

     

    Ok, so that's good Bodnar runs hall sensors, never used them before so may give them a try.

     

    Think I'll leave the cyclic though, cheers - my Warthog grip is great for every airframe! Might even get a Virpil base when they're sorted as their gimbal looks amazing. I'll read over your thread later, I'm sure I'll have questions!!

     

    This ain't gonna be a full on pro job by the way, lol. I hardly get the time to fly in DCS let alone tinkering with stuff anymore with kids hanging around asking questions etc lol

    IMG_0315.JPG.49c6f49af03e29df99870d6f9e2fb529.JPG

  9. So I just bought myself a pilots collective from a Lynx!! So a couple of questions for all you builders.

    What would you recommend - Leo Bodnar interface for the axis and switches? (I have zero programming skills by the way) - should I go down the pot or hall sensor route for pitch and throttle?

    I've read that some use a mini moto steering damper to stop the collective dropping,how about a car handbrake? (There is a button called Col Rel (collective release?) -could that be a useful for such a thing?

    Cheers guys

  10. I know everyone has different financial backgrounds here, but if you're willing to spend like £40 on a module I don't see why you wouldn't spend an extra £6 to get an amazing associated carrier to go with it. I agree put them both together for one price and don't have separate offers.

  11. Lol, ok, So it doesn't work in 1.5.6 and in 2.1.1 all I just get is a clear blue tinted box that drops down - total immersion killer!! (This is in VR by the way). I suppose I expected it to be like putting a pair of sunglasses on. As is, it just looks crap

    Untitled.thumb.jpg.43806d1ed4e528c64d7f83db43e87168.jpg

  12. Default desert skin

     

    Yep I'm the same here, did you get a fix? I'd like to get this fixed. And I get this in both 1.5.6 and 2.1.1 - both of which are up to date. Tried all the ablove advices. Any other idea? Cheers

    Untitled.jpg.5d4eca51d94db073d6b984467bd3d149.jpg

  13. Gamma slider

     

    1.6 here on a flatscreen, but will probably experiment a lot with other values. The best thing about the feature is it can be adjusted "on the fly" without exiting the mission.

     

    How please?

    Cheers.

  14. Sun visor

     

    I think only in m2000 and c101? iirc...

     

    Are you sure? I know it's visible in the external M2K model but I don't notice any difference in the cockpit. I've not checked it in a while mind you. And it certainly would be a useful thing to have

×
×
  • Create New...