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Reticuli

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Posts posted by Reticuli

  1. I'm talking about with my moving the box at the same rate the target is moving, so there is little to no difference in speed comparing the target and the box when it fails to lock.

    These are targets well within 9.5km.  A moment later it's shooting at me, so it's definitely close enough that I should be able to lock.

    The bigger the box, the harder it is to get it to lock airborne targets for some reason when the box is on the target.  If it was the opposite of that, it'd be fantastic, as it'd reduce the necessity to be quite so precise with box placement and speed... not that any of that at the moment is helping as much as it should.
     

    I'd rather not have to cheat using padlocking and the helmet sight.

    Oddly enough, I seem to have an easier time locking Russian helos than the Cobra or A-10, like they have some magical invulnerability cloak or something.

  2. Sometimes it takes me like half a dozen attempts, and against a Cobra I seem to be in big trouble when that happens.  Against an A-10, I basically have zero chance.  I will try the larger box size with the vertical line which usually speeds locks for ground targets, but that will often result in a lack of lock at all, like it doesn't even see anything.  I have adjusted the contrast and brightness so that it's very obviously a stark, moving target.  I'm talking the box literally ON TOP OF THE THE ENEMY CRAFT and it will not acquire the target a majority of the time.

  3. Not sure what it's even doing in your poorly-named and poorly-functioning flight director mode.  Turning the yaw channel off, the yaw still seems highly limited for some reason with applied pedal (bad), even though it's obviously not being tweaked back in the opposite direction which it shouldn't be (good).  Turning the yaw channel off, you should get an increase in available yaw in addition to the fact that it won't stop easily when you take your foot off the pedal, rather it will just kind of keep going for a while.  Your yaw in general in the ka-50 just seems to be borked.  Sometimes it just wants to whip around for no reason.  Poor authority even with the channel off.  Poor damping in FD mode with it on.  Unpredictable.  It'd be nice to have a proper yaw damper in non-'FD mode', too, or a yaw that works like helo yaw at least when the AP/SAS yaw axis is disabled, but right now I basically have to put up with having either the wimpy available wanky, unpredictable yaw with the channel on in FD mode, or I have FD mode off and put the turn to target on and just turn with that sort of super damping but that deprives me of the use of my expensive pedals.

  4. Reticuli, try your script with all autopilot/stabilization channels disabled, to see if you can for sure eliminate any autopilot/stabilization inputs from adversely affecting your Kamov.

     

    Are you saying you want me to turn GlovePIE on and test it with the Ka-50 SAS channels all off? Because I've repeatedly mentioned in this thread that I've replicated this without the scripts active.

  5. Back on subject, the Autotrim option is in 2.5.5 (not beta) and it can cause some odd behavior if ticked, I just posted this with a video link showing it yesterday in the P51 forum -

    "I have deadzone set to zero and in the calibration screen it shows even the slightest deviation from the center axis in both X and Y and re-centers perfectly every time. The issue is in the sim when flying, I move the stick slightly and nothing happens for the first few degrees, then it (the game stick) jumps to the current joystick position all at once. Watching the stick in the plane shows this clearly, no movement for first few degrees of motion then bam, stick pops. It's like its storing the start of movement and then sending it all at once after 1 sec or so. After this first few degrees of movement all is well and inputs on the stick parallel my movements exactly. This occurs in both the X and Y axis."

     

    This was solved by un-ticking Autotrim... the 10 sec. video is here, keep in mind I am slowly moving the stick for 2-3 seconds before the stick jumps each time..

    https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4026201&postcount=3

     

    You might want to turn on the red controls indicator box to have a better idea what it's doing in the background.

     

    Right now you have to make sure all your in-sim manual trim states are completely clear before using AutoTrimmer and don't apply manual trim in-sim later when it's on. The AutoTrimmer also unfortunately doesn't apply additional deflection and hold trim from its current AutoTrimmer trim position, but rather jumps down to a less input (with a detection lag) starting from center as you move the joystick again from center. It's also laggy overall and generally inaccurate and poor authority how it's attempting to automatically hold an attitude, to say nothing of the weeble wobble effect when you try to command a rotation rate.

  6. Just did a 2 minute test on this:

     

    Using the trim reset will also send your current attitude to the autopilot (just like using the normal trim). This can be observed by engaging flight director, going into a turn and then resetting the trim. The "flight director bars" on the HUD will be at an angle.

     

    So, if you're sitting on the ground and use the reset, your flight controls will be in the default state. I'm 100% sure THIS is the intended use and nothing else, so there isn't any defect.

     

    But I have to ask: Why would you even need to reset your trim?

     

    In the Ka-50 you hold the trimmer, get to the desired heading/attitude and release. This is what you should be doing and unless you seriously messed up your trim there should never be a necessity to reset it. I haven't used the reset once in flight ever and I've been flying this thing for many years.

     

    If you depend on the trim reset you're doing it wrong and I wouldn't be surprised if that's related to your mystical auto-trimmer script.

     

    Thank you.

     

    Not sure why you're still mentioning anything about being on the ground.

     

    "If you depend on the trim reset you're doing it wrong and I wouldn't be surprised if that's related to your mystical auto-trimmer script."

     

    I'm not. It's not. You're missing the point.

     

    "Using the trim reset will also send your current attitude to the autopilot (just like using the normal trim)."

     

    That doesn't seem to be what ought to be happening.

     

    One does not need to clear trim a second time. I just randomly did it and found it still caused a wobble in flight with the stick pressure held constant, like something else was going on other than actually just clearing the in-sim manual trim state. This will also occur with the Joystick Without Springs and FFB trimmer mode when your big pro cyclic physically holds a position. This appears to possibly be just a minor bug, but I wanted see if other people could replicate it before saying so in the bug section.

  7. If you hold a position while pressing reset trim, the trim will reset back to the center position, then your input is added to that. This happens in one step, so it won't jump back to center before applying your input:

     

     

    I'm not sure what you mean by wobble.

     

    In flight, not on the ground. Clear the trim. Then hold the stick in a position or at a constant pressure. Wait for the aircraft to stabilize. Clear trim again while still holding that joystick position/pressure. I'm curious why the aircraft is wobbling or acting like it's got a slight change in control input when you clear trim again. Perhaps CTRL + T is resetting the SAS or there's a lag between the virtual cyclic returning to center and the sim re-detecting the physical joystick.

  8. Single Trigger Option without having to edit the LUA for it. Actually, everything in that weapons systems LUA probably ought to be options in the sim. This hacking of program files is outdated.

     

    Thank you for finally adding the HMS centering option in the sim, btw. One less LUA to mess with after each update.

     

    Nice to also see the option to make the labels dots. I personally use a kind of off-gray hue to blend with the terrain on the enemy and kind of an visual IFF marker green on the allies. Pretty much since shortly after I got BS1.

     

    -- Label parameters

    -- Copyright © 2004, Eagle Dynamics.

     

    AirOn = true

    GroundOn = true

    NavyOn = true

    WeaponOn = false

     

    -- Label max distance depends on graphics visibility range option value

    -- For low �E40000.0 m

    -- For medium �E50000.0 m

    -- For high �E80000.0 m

     

    ---------------------------------

    -- Label text format symbols

    -- %N - name of object

    -- %D - distance to object

    -- %P - pilot name

    -- %n - new line

    -- %% - symbol '%'

    -- %x, where x is not NDPn% - symbol 'x'

    ------------------------------------------

    -- Example

    -- labelFormat[5000] = "Name: %N%nDistance: %D%n Pilot: %P"

    -- up to 5km label is:

    -- Name: Su-33

    -- Distance: 30km

    -- Pilot: Pilot1

     

    AirFormat = {}

    AirFormat[10] = "'"

    AirFormat[5000] = "'"

    AirFormat[7000] = "'"

    AirFormat[20000] = ""

    AirFormat[30000] = ""

     

    GroundFormat = {}

    GroundFormat[5000] = "'"

    GroundFormat[7000] = "'"

    GroundFormat[20000] = ""

     

    NavyFormat = {}

    NavyFormat[7000] = "'"

    NavyFormat[20000] = ""

    NavyFormat[40000] = ""

     

    WeaponFormat = {}

    WeaponFormat[5000] = ""

    WeaponFormat[10000] = ""

    WeaponFormat[20000] = ""

     

    -- Colors in {red, green, blue} format, volume from 0 up to 255

     

    ColorAliesSide = {70, 225, 70}

    ColorEnemiesSide = { 50, 100, 100}

  9. I tried it just now and there doesn't seem to be any issues with trim reset. On the right is my physical joystick position and on the left is the virtual position of the cyclic. When I trim away from the center point and reset the trim, the virtual position correctly jumps back to center, and all my joystick movements are once again relative to the center position:

     

     

    Yes, that's exactly what I see with the controls indicator, but the helo still wobbles a little. Does it not wobble for you? Try holding a physical joystick position (very still or with same pressure) when you do it while in flight.

  10. All trim reset does is return the virtual joystick position back to the center so that your joystick movements will start back at the center point. It's useful if your trimmed virtual joystick position is somewhere off in the corner and you need to quickly bring it back to center. It's a "control" that doesn't exist in the real aircraft and is only useful for spring-based joysticks without FFB.

     

    It seems to be either doing more or doing just what you're saying with a lag, possibly because it's oddly momentarily sending the virtual joystick to the center position with a slight delay prior it picking back up your joystick's actual position.

  11.  

    #1 Aircraft is in a non-ready state. Some aircraft can hot reload/refuel, others can't. For repairs, I believe they ALL have to be fully shutdown.

     

     

    That's a problem considering now the Ka-50 doesn't seem to be doing autostart properly anyway with the right engine not starting. So repairs appear to be out of the question for me currently as I'm not going to bother with manual shut downs and starts.

  12. In real life there is a crew chief and physical movement of resources to the aircraft, though. You can see people do stuff and you're not just stuck seeing if you got the end result you wanted. No reason NOT to have countdowns on all this as a suitable replacement. It's not as if it'd be tough for ED to implement. The seconds don't even need to be exactly correct or anything, like when transferring a file in Windows and its 15 minutes to count down isn't quite that length of time as it winds down. So if the calculating of duration for the beginning of the countdown isn't exact, that's fine. Just an easier way to show progress and that would also let us know better when it's not happening at all.

  13. about repair and countdown ...

    I noticed with a su-25T

    that doing 3 an accident and 3 times a repair on the 4th repair the countdown does not start and does not repair.

    I don't know whether to put it in the BUGs or if you want to verify it yourself.

     

    Maybe when I'm noticing no countdown for the repair I'm not actually getting any repairs at all?

  14. Would you mind elaborating what's going on with your automatic trimmer script? If you use GlovePIE to deal with the trimming, what do you need the in-game reset for?

    Also, the in-game trimmer sets parameters for the autopilot on top of re-setting the stick center, so you should really be using that if you want to fly properly.

     

    This defect has nothing to do with the GlovePIE script. I just notice that when I clear the in-DCS manual trim using crtl+T, it's still wobbling the helo regardless of GlovePIE being used or not. I was just pointing that out in case people thought it was specifically from using the autotrimming in GlovePIE or in DCS's own new not-quite-right autotrimmer. I don't clear trim often, usually only once when first jumping into the helo. I just noticed if I do it later it still makes the helo wobble a little in flight even though DCS has no manual trim set at that moment... which is weird, like the SAS or something is being reset.

  15. I'm sure it works... Serves the purpose you require it to :).

     

     

    I just don't quite see how it makes anything "better". Obviously that's a subjective measurement so... Of course I recommend anyone that's curious try it too :).

     

     

    I'm pretty sure that FD mode and/or holding the trim button will allow even cleaner "seat of the pants" flying though... Heck you could even turn off the AP channels in whatever combo you'd like if you really want a seat of the pants "lively" experience....

     

     

    I feel like the script would cause the KA50 to handle like an arcade game chopper. That may not be too entirely bad depending on your goals :)... again a subjective measurement :).

     

    I can understand that viewpoint. For me it's more instinctive. I'm at a rough attitude hold situation with it and I want to tweak my situation, I just apply a touch of pressure on the x65f stick. If I did too much, I tweak back. Rinse repeat. No bothering with holding down a button when doing it or clicking it at the right moment when my orientation is the way I want it. No issue with having to think whether I even want to change my orientation because I'm pretty stable and can mostly do what I need how I am. Manual trim tends to compel me to both re-orient & "fly" the helo less, if you will, and feels more cerebral and less instinctive... though, granted, programming and setting it up in the first place was a lot of the former. With the dynamic auto trimming stuff, I just do it and don't think about it. As for handling like an arcade game chopper, DCS's flight models really prevent that. Comanche Gold + the scripts are kind of like that. I'd argue in DCS with it you have more workload with the scripts than without, but it's more intuitive and more flexible and more like real helos with side spring-loaded joysticks and pressure sticks. And to me the workload is a more enjoyable type of work, so I'm happy to have a little more to do while I stay on my toes.

  16. Yeah... that's not an improvement.

     

    Sounds to me like it was designed by someone that doesn't understand how to use the manual trim system and was done back before ED implemented the centering function and the no springs function.

     

    You mean my GlovePIE thing? Well it worked well enough that Austin Meyer finally implemented auto trimming of pitch loads as an option at some point when I was working on my stuff in X-Plane V8. And my scripts even in Blackshark work way better than ED's new AutoTrimmer is working. I've described, though, how theirs can be better, including better than the GlovePIE + PPJoy method, which I'll admit takes some set-up. If they get rid of the weird bounce effect when it resets the autotrimmer immediately on seeing a new input, they also allow full immediate deflection regardless of prior autotrimmer state, and reduce its lag, it will be great. It's pretty useless now even for fixed wings.

     

    You can certainly use manual trimming with a standard spring or pressure stick, especially now with all the manual trim mode options, but to me it's still kind of mechanical and not as intuitive. Manual trim is not complicated. I use it occasionally when I'm going to be using the autopilot a lot to get to some spot on the map. It's still one of the GlovePIE script modes. But I can really fly the helo with the dynamic auto trim update methods. Like stick and rudder, seat-of-the-pants stuff. I think one helo company is now calling it (the better, "smart" digital FBW method) "unique" trim on a side stick.

     

    Download a demo of X-Plane 8, 9, or 10 and the Comanche & Apache pack off their .org site and you'll get a quick taste of what I'm talking about without the hassle of setting up PPJoy and GlovePIE when you probably won't even use it much. At least it will give you a more in-depth perspective rather than what has to be sort of an abstract subject just to talk about. I mean, if I make a video of me flying around with it, that's really not going to do it justice, either. You only need the auto trimming on the pitch in X-Plane because the Art Stab does nice roll damping when you combine that with either hat or rotary trims. X-Plane's yaw damper is pretty great, too.

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