mooimacow

DirtyFret, are you actually getting an increase in FPS when running in SLI? What is your single card vs dual card performance like?

I emailed Bugeye about the F16 "budget" controls but they never replied to me. I'd pay several times the cost of a warthog for a universal hotas solution. I wish they would make a consumer version of the F35.

What graphical features should I be sure to enable or disable to get the most out of 3dvision? Edit: What depth and x1 values are everyone finding works best? In the first post, lefuneste01 mentioned he was using 50depth, 0.3convergence. I play 3dvision comfortably between 50 and 75, and if 50 is what's working best for him, that's what I want to be using too. I always find that I need to lower convergence from default, though. How can I check the value of my convergence after setting it in-game with CTRL-F5/F6? One more question: How can I make the labels appear at the same depth at the HUD? Is this even possible? I tried chaging the y1 value to 0.4 (just like the HUD) but it didn't seem to make any difference. The labels were still not as far back as the HUD (which looks great).

I'm having a problem with the link too. Thanks again for still working on this, lefuneste01. I don't think a lot of people realize just how great 3dvision is. As long as it still works, I'll probably be holding off until a 2nd generation HMD is out. Gotta be able to read that HUD :)

Thank you so much! I watch this thread every day.

There aren't any potentiometers involved in the (stock) warthog slew, only the cheapo hall effect joystick. I plan on removing the hall effect joystick and replacing it with a 3d joystick from a console controller. It will connect to an arduino, though, not to the existent electronics in the warthog hotas. As hegykc discovered, the throttle's electronics won't work with a standard pots that deliver VCC to the controller. Should have pics in a week or two. Shipping's slow around the holidays.

They came out very nice. I'll update with some more pics later after my potentiometers arrive.

I ordered 2 sets of them from 3dhubs too. I might try it out but more likely, I'll use the spiderweb cap to place on top of my 3d joystick.

Bump to keep the dream alive. Ran into some issues trying to repurpose the DS3 hall effect joysticks with arduino. Ended up ordering some generic (3pin) joysticks to play around with instead. As I look around more and more for options, I am starting to think that the best "force sensitive" stick may be a good ol TrackPoint mouse, AKA the Nipple Mouse, as famously found on IBM laptops. Something like one of these: http://www.computex.biz/parex/default.aspx?com_id=50&pdt_id=331&PageType=ProductDetail&ContentTab=Introduction You can get arduino to read just about anything but I cannot find a single vendor anywhere on the Internet that will sell me just one OEM, barebones Trackpoint/Gyrostick/PointingStick mouse! Every vendor I can find online that sells some variant of a TrackPoint mouse is an OEM that will only sell hundreds or thousands at a time, despite them costing a dollar or two at most. No samples available either. I can't read German but something like this guy acquired would be ideal: http://images.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mathiasmichael.com%2Fsonstiges%2Ftrackpoint%2FBild04.jpeg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.roboternetz.de%2Fcommunity%2Farchive%2Findex.php%2Ft-39428.html%3Fs%3D7b603f033aad9df8cfb9ad3af68c530a&h=424&w=600&tbnid=YTG5lsJi19XMEM%3A&docid=jMfRuVOpmtCVBM&ei=d0tvVvS8IoWMasv3oYAK&tbm=isch&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=435&page=1&start=0&ndsp=44&ved=0ahUKEwi01KTKu9zJAhUFhhoKHct7CKAQrQMIPzAL The problem with cannibalizing an old laptop/keyboard with a Trackpoint mouse is that there are so many manufacturers, you're lucky if you get one that has a small enough footprint to be installed in the Warthog. Here's a guy who re purposed his trackpoint mouse, but look at big the PCB's footprint is... https://jpad.wikispaces.com/Making+a+Nugget At this point, I'm thinking my best bet is to start buying up ancient PC gear for pennies on the dollar from eBay and find an ideal keyboard/mouse model that has a small footprint PCB. Anyone got any suggestions? Aside from getting lucky on google images, I don't know how I'd go about finding the best trackpoint mouse for the job. EDIT: Another really cool option might be the micro trackball from an Apple Mighty mouse, as seen in detail on http://norestfortheweekend.com/blog/2009/10/03/how-to-stop-a-mighty-mouse-scroll-ball-sticking/ I wonder -- could this micro trackball be connected directly to an arduino via the ribbon cable, or does the trackball *require* the apple mighty mouse guts to be able to function as a pointing device? EDIT2: You need the mouse guts unfortunately! But, this is all doable as shown on http://www.plastibots.com/index.php/2009/12/10/eee-901-mightymouse-hack/ . Shouldn't be hard to fit the mighty mouse board inside of the warthog throttle, especially with the weights removed.

Yikes. Would it be worthwhile to buy a surplus F15 throttle like http://www.ebay.com/itm/MS-002-F-15-FIGHTER-JET-THROTTLE-GRIP-/371444115383?hash=item567bcb67b7:g:0m4AAOSw9r1V~VUr&vxp=mtr , if only for the analog transducer? Hook that baby up to an analog encoder and you're in business. "ALL BUTTONS AND SWITCHES WORKING GREAT" they say... I suspect that means they make clicky noises. Not so much that output has all been digitally tested. Anyone have experience with military transducers? Update on my own project: The DS3 board requires the battery to be plugged into it to work. It's not enough to complete the circuit on the battery connector. There must be some kind of IC inside the batt pack. However, the PCB + battery will fit inside the throttle as long as the weights are removed. It's an ugly setup though. The weird drivers I have to deal with getting it to work on the PC is a pain in the ass anyway. Instead, I just ordered a teensy arduino, http://store-usa.arduino.cc/products/teensy-lc and I'll be connecting one of the DS3's rather decent hall effect analog sticks to it. I'll just run a second wire out of the throttle. No biggie. Now what I *really* need is a nice concave, spider-web cap for the joystick with a short neck like what hegykc has modeled already. Man that thing is sweet.

hegykc, I'm glad you're still here and working on this. I'm looking forward to updates. As long as we're on the subject of replacing the slew joystick entirely, has anyone ever contacted Otto, Sogein, or Atoms regarding their willingness to sell the *real* thing to civillians? http://www.ottoexcellence.com/products/transducer-switch/ http://www.sogein.eu/joystick.html http://www.atoms-monaco.com/fr/joystick-commande/mini-joystick/ I wonder if these can even be ordered individually and what kind of cost they are. Hundreds of dollars probably? S3NTRY11, a trackball on the throttle would be awesome. The F35 has got one. http://www.f-16.net/forum/download/file.php?id=16163&sid=90f7d0da6ab03434fb25897b93a4ee25&mode=view But, a trackball wouldn't be a good replacement for Warthog owners because the cursor replacement still needs a bug button. I can't find any clickable trackballs out there. Could be a neat project. EDIT: I forgot to mention. I'm working on my own implementation of this, albiet without hegykc's impressive 3d printing. I have a dualshock3 gamepad that I'm going to gut, remove the battery from, and hack away all of the PCB except for the bluetooth, USB controller, one joystick, and power button. Then, I'll desolder the stick attach 30guage wires to it, and replace the stock slew with it. I should then be able to run the wires down to what's left of the DS3 PCB in the throttle base. May be a tight fit and require some drilling/cutting. I've got some fun options at this point, including either drilling a new hole for a mini USB cable to connect the DS3 to the PC, or I may be able to wire the throttle's existent usb voltage to the DS3 PCB and use it with my PC via bluetooth. I've used DS3tool with the DS3 and the PC, so it'll just show up as an xbox360 controller, with the normal axes. Will work in all sims. I'll update this thread with pics if I'm able to pull this off.

hegykc, I hope you're still here. This is the most important mod I think I've ever seen. I hope the fact that the electronics in the Hotas Warthog are not compatible with standard joystick pots won't stop you from offering this mod for sale. My workaround for this would be just not to use the Throttle's own circuit board for the replacement slew. Rather, I'll just run an extra cable out of the throttle, and connect it to my USB encoder. I think anyone hardcore enough to disassemble their throttle and replace the slew would be able to do this as well. I would be willing to pay you a generaous price for a one-off printing run of the parts you prototyped , if you've tested them to fit. I'll make all the electronics work myself. Please contact me if you're up for doing business. Thanks, cow

Vega, You are a god among men, sir. My Warthog Hotas shipped with sticktion from the day I got it! And 2 weeks later it go so bad that CH joysticks were feeling better. I found your post, ordered the Molykote and just finished applying it. WOW!!! What a difference. It's just night and day. I've never handled a smoother stick. One thing, though. You said you were able to remove the bushings in the inner sphere and lubricate them too. This was the one thing I was unable to do. I applied plenty of Molykote on the pins with a needle but I couldn't actually get the bushings off. How did you do it? I tried pushing them out from the inside but I didn't want to push any harder than I was. I didn't want to try to pry them out from the outside because that's a friction surface for the ball! Thanks again. I'd buy you a beer if you lived in the greater WI area. -cow