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Raven Morpheus

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Everything posted by Raven Morpheus

  1. Ah thanks that's sorted it.
  2. Hey there The other day the message about discussing political issues (in red at the top of pages) was written in English and all other text was in English. But now the site is mostly in Russian. Luckily I know vaguely the layout of the forum buttons and some stuff but it's still a little difficult as I don't speak nor read Russian. So, what's happened, how can I change it back? TIA
  3. What do you do to overcome the tilt to one side or the other? I am finding that the Huey, even when I've trimmed to match the "co-pilots" inputs for level flight the Huey never stays level and always tilts/rolls to one side or the other. Either that or (and usually as a result of correcting the tilt/roll) I'm up down up down up down up down never keeping the climb indicator on 0. And I'm sure it's made worse by the fact that I seem to always be chasing the controls (not least of all the collective), it seems like I'm always an input or microsecond behind what the Huey is in fact doing, almost like there is input lag, but there isn't any input lag shown on the controls indicator! Could it be a result of having low fps? I only get an average of 30fps on a good mission. BTW I got some rudder pedals today, Saitek Pro Flight (the ones with the silver round tightening hub in the middle). And wow! They make a huge difference and far less a pita than using the twist rudder on my X52!
  4. I don't have the money to upgrade anyhow so no chance I'll be wasting my money. I found a full graphics.lua and also terrain HIGH.lue in another thread and borrowed the settings in those (sorry, I can't recall which thread it was or who posted it), and I just did the 1st mission on the Huey campaign again (I get the feeling I'm doomed to keep repeating it because I can't land...) and from take off I was getting a good 30fps average and it was "playable"... ...I got to the airport at the end of the mission and boom, fps drops to 9/10 fps just as I approach the airport. So, definitely a problem with the airport - and I've read in other threads this is a common issue. Real shame because it takes me 90 minutes or so to reach that airport and I have "playable" fps all the way up till that point. Still, I probably couldn't land even if I had decent fps - I still have problems descending and getting into to a hover (Vortex Ring something or other)...
  5. Hey there Just got a couple of simple questions, that I can't find answers to (at this time). 1. Why am I "usually" shown as "new callsign" - can I change that to my name, and how? 2. Haven't looked through the complete KA-50 controls yet so forgive me if I'm overlooking this, but can I set the PVI (I think that's what that numpad panel for navigation is called) to my keyboards numpad? 3. In the KA-50 to the left of the Shkval monitor there is a compass. But it never points to where the waypoint is, only where the yellow marker is (which is presumably set every time I trim) - can I make that compass point to the waypoints like the HUD does, just as a backup? TIA
  6. Thanks. I have scenes, civ traffic, water, visib range, and shadows on LOW, heat blur is off as is MSAA and HDR and textures are on HIGH. I also have mirrors turned off, and no cockpit shadows. Still doesn't make much of a difference, 10-15 fps at the most. No good if like last night I drop to 9-12 fps when over an airport (like at the end of the 1st UH-1H campaign mission)!! So, editing the .lua/.cfg files would be better, and I'm sure there's more to tweak than just what I've tweaked in options.lua/graphics.lua (stuff like structures = {20, 10000}; under the Medium heading), but half of what people used to tweak (such as LandLoD values, or values in modelLOD.txt) to get better fps has been removed or moved to somewhere that I'm not aware of?!
  7. Hey all I was doing the 1st mission of the Huey campaign last night and for the most part my frame rate was what I consider "playable" for DCS World (on average I probably get 25-30fps, but when I got to the end it became rather unplayable (it dropped to something like 12fps) and probably contributed to me crashing the bird... ...so I'm wondering (apart from hardware upgrades which may or may not make a difference, as I've read even people with top end rigs struggle) what fps tweaks I can make to improve overall fps in 1.2.8. Here's my specs - AMD Phenom II 955 x4 @ 3.2ghz Sapphire ATI 5870 1GB 8GB RAM 1333mhz 1TB HDD @7200RPM Win 7 64 bit 2 monitors running at 2820x1440 (one is a portrait 19" LCD TV with native res of 1440x900, the other is a 21" 1080p TV) - I get no significant increase in fps by changing to 1 monitor @ 1920x1080, nor do I get any significant increase in fps by lowering resolution, I've tried 1 monitor @1280x720 and it adds perhaps 5fps. I already run the game in slightly tweaked settings I've cobbled together based on advice from various threads, most of which pertains to older builds, but things have changed with 1.2.8 and files like modellod.txt (apparently a big culprit for low fps) no longer exist it seems, nor do the LandLod settings in Graphics.cfg (now Graphics.lua), so I'm wondering where the content of those files has gone and if they can still be tweaked. TIA
  8. Hello I've got a Saitek X45 lying around doing nothing and I'm considering converting at least the joystick to a longer handled more cyclic type of stick. I might use the throttle as a collective also but it's a little iffy due to what seems like a faulty connection in the joystick base (if I press down on the throttle connection it turns the whole controller off!). Anyhow I'm wondering how to do the wiring because I would need to pull the extended handles apart for storage... So, is there any way of cutting the original wires so that I can use connectors to attach/detach extended wires for easy storage of the extended poles? TIA EDIT - nevermind. I have thought of a way to do it. Use 3x 3 pin PC fan extension cables. Solder each wire from the stick of the X45 (there appears to be 9 of them) to each wire of the 3 3pin fan cables and voila I can take the wiring apart, in theory... Not sure I want to do it though, it seems a bit tedious and fiddly stripping and soldering those tiny thin wires in the X45.
  9. Hey there Looking around for profiles for my X52 Pro... ...and all I seem to be finding for DCS World, apart from 1 single KA-50 profile (which with a little tweaking is actually quite good), is profiles for the A-10!!! So, does anyone out there have a complete working profile for the UH-1H that they would kindly share with me? TIA
  10. Yup brand new from Saitek/Mad Catz themselves. I have done a tension mod (couple of 40 thou circles of plasticard at the top of the spring) to stop the slop in the spring and also I've done a magnet mod on the internal magnets for better accuracy. I play IL2 1946 and those 2 mods improved the stick hugely. I've attached a track showing what I mean about the Force Trim, as you can see when I hold/release, or even just press the FT button the controls jump around on the indicator, even when I'm on the ground, and whilst in the air this obviously causes problems (you can see it when I'm flying and trying to trim). And yeah my flying is terrible also, but I managed to just about hover and land... EDIT - I think Flagrum just explained why I'm getting that FT issue. Thanks, I'll turn on the Central Trimmer mode and see if it's any better, I had turned it off due to the controls freezing, which was annoying in the UH1, and not so much of a problem in the KA-50. EDIt 2 - Just did a test flight with Central Position Trimmer mode enabled and yeah it's much better, although it does still twitch the controls a little. But god do I need a set of pedals, using the twist rudder on the X2 Pro is a pita. I really wish it had a rocker on the throttle like the X45... @Buzzles - I'll try getting used to just pressing the FT button, I occasionally just press my trimmer in the KA-50 anyway instead of holding (seems to work fine for me along with holding/releasing the trimmer), so adapting is no problem now that I know. Force Trim ex.zip
  11. Thanks. I just did another short test flight (in the generate mission mode) and managed to do OK, so yeah probably just me not being a good pilot, or a lazy KA-50 pilot. Lol. One other thing I'm having an issue with is the Force Trim control. What I do is hold the Force Trim button (advice taken from BS1 tutorials), in my case the pinkie on the X52 pro, and then when I've got my controls in position I let go of the FT button. However this causes the cyclic stick to suddenly jump around (at least on the controls indicator, haven't looked at the one in the cockpit) even though I'm physically holding my stick completely still, and it often leads to a sudden dive. I think, but can't confirm right now, it does the same thing if I just move my controls into position and then press/release the FT button. Will test that now though. Somehow I don't think holding and then releasing FT is supposed to cause the cyclic to suddenly jump around!? Game bug? Controller bug? Or am I using Force Trim incorrectly?
  12. Hey there I've had the UH-1H module for a while now, but haven't really got the hang of it, and conversely the KA-50 is a piece of cake to fly (once you learn which buttons to press and which switches to flip)... Long story short I've just switched over to using a Saitek X52 Pro from a Saitek X45 and I'm encountering a couple of issues I didn't seem to have before. 1. When I'm trying to slow down for landing to bring the heli to a hover, by gradually pulling back on the stick, the drop rate all of a sudden plummets and I fall out of the sky. 2. The collective doesn't seem to take much input before I start climbing/descending and I always seem to be chasing the climb rate dial. I'm also having another issue that I had even with the Saitek X45 - 3. I can't seem to get a stable level flight at a decent speed. The heli always wants to roll to one side or the other (left/right bank) and I'm always chasing the input to correct (I have the same but not as bad issue in the KA-50) and gaining speed always leads to me losing height drastically (probably linked in some way to problem #2 above). What can I do (as a pilot) to alleviate all of the above? Are there any particular settings I can set (like curves) for the X52 Pro to help? TIA
  13. Thanks, it's been nearly a year (sorry for the threadmancy) and since I last posted, and until today, I was using the zip tie method with a thin circle of card, which did help a little. However today I went a bit further and I took another piece of card, the waxy sort of stuff you get on cereal boxes, mine came from the box that my USB TV Tuner dongle came in, and I took a 40thou thick piece of plasticard (black in this case) - look up Evergreen if you're in need of a brand to use, model makers us it extensively. I cut the plasticard and two pieces of card into circles just a bit larger in diameter than the plate and cup that are on the X45, about 1cm larger, and I cut a hole in the middle and sliced up the radius of the circles into the hole so they fit around the shaft of the stick. I made a sandwich of the plasticard and ordinary card, with the plasticard in the middle. The circles of card and plasticard sit on top of the cup between it and the plate that is below the spring, and along with the zip ties (I've used enough so I've completely covered the 2nd and 3rd rings up from the bottom) it has made a very smooth action. I could have gotten away with just using the plasticard but for some reason it was making a rather annoying noise, but the card pieces either side, being softer I guess, have eliminated that noise. I might even be able to remove the zip ties now, but I'm not sure I want to as I like the looseness - it's just loose enough that it's easy to move a little, but not quite loose enough to lose the self-centring effect. Just thought I'd share my final fix for my X45 and thank you all for your advice. :)
  14. Yes I noticed they'd removed that on the X52. I was going to buy one as it's the newer of the sticks and all USB (I could have used just the throttle section). But due to the lack of rudder rocker switch I went for the X45, seeing as I don't own pedals and I generally sit on my bed playing games so pedals are not a viable option. Think that's peculiar to BS. I've got IL2 1946 also and I use the rotaries for trim wheels, although they're about as accurate and helpful as my mouse wheel - I seem to spend more time correcting and trimming than anything else. I'm also not using the programming software. I'm running Windows 7 and I've read on various forums that the programming software doesn't always work for people. So, so far all I've installed is the basic Saitek X45 driver.
  15. Thanks for the tips so far. I've discarded the foam I had put under the plate below the spring and I managed to find a couple of zip ties and tied up 2 rings of the spring. That combined with a 9cm diameter circle piece of a silicon baking sheet under the plate has made it better. Still not perfect though so I may get some more zip ties and tie up 3 rings on the spring and/or find some grease as you guys mentioned. I also retract my thoughts about the pinky switch - I've mapped it to the trimmer and it makes sense where it is, even if it feels a little odd having my little finger not gripping anything.
  16. Hey there After busting my Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X (screw through the throttle section main cable whilst putting things back together after removing the throttle handle detent, rendering the throttle handle useless) I knew I had to buy a new stick (or at least a new throttle). I've been eyeing up either a Saitek X45 or X52 for a long while now and I finally managed to get my hands on a fully functional Saitek X45, albeit a 2nd hand one, for the excellent price of £45 + £7.5 postage! Compared to the T-Flight Hotas X the throttle handle is beautiful to use, no detent around centre, and it's much more accurate around it's centre also, it seems smoother and accurate in general. I could do with a couple more buttons instead of 1 of the hat switches, although I'm sure I can find a use for the hat switch I'm not using (the mouse wheel hat). On the T Flight Hotas X I had separate buttons mapped for uncaging shkval and the ALT+C function and I don't really have any spare buttons for doing that on the Saitek X45, unless I use the directions of the mouse hat switch, which I'm not sure would work all that well for me. I guess I could map the uncage shkval to the pinky switch, but again, not really ideal for me as I use the mouse initially to move the shkval (and then a hat switch for tighter targeting) and I'm right handed... I don't like the position of the pinky switch either, I basically don't like my little finger resting on it and it means I'm only really gripping the stick with my 2 middle fingers and thumb. If I were to redesign the X45 I'd get rid of the pinky switch and maybe put a couple of extra buttons on the stick or throttle bases. I also have no idea what the "Mode selection" function does. I'll have to read the downloadable manual I guess... One other little issue I've got with it though, which I see is quite a common complaint and I was aware of it before I bought the stick, is that the stick itself has a plastic plate underneath the centring spring and that plate causes the stick to stick when I want to begin moving it. I've seen people do a mod to the spring with zip ties, but as I don't have any to hand at the moment I've stuck a piece of silicon baking sheet (for a bit of "slidyness") and some foam under the plate to raise it up, it's made it better but it's not ideal. Is there any other way to mod the stick (other than the zip tie method) so that the plate under the spring doesn't cause the stick to stick? Thanks in advance for any advice on this, and sorry if I've put this topic in the wrong sub-forum.
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