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Sokol1_br

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Posts posted by Sokol1_br

  1. T16k-M is a low cost option (<100$), has many buttons (same number of CH Fighterstick) but not in practical placement - 6 are more awkward to use than the keyboard.

    For you his only advantage is the ambidextrous grip.

     

    On your budget get X-52 or X-55, is more "A-10". :joystick:

     

    >90%* of complains about X-55 is due his programming software, what you can live without.

     

    * From remaining 10% a good part is due "not be a 200$ HOTAS Warthog". :megalol:

  2. As the "last resort"

     

    Remove the pot' and disassemble then, wash with isopropyl alcohol (or cleaner spray).

     

    Add angle to "wiper's" that sweep the resistive track.

     

    A disassembled (CH stick) pot':

     

    Pot.jpg

     

    If all fail, replace the pot - and now start your real problem, the ~30º pot' used in joystick is not sold in electronics shop, only Saitek can help you, if... :D

  3. Midori QP-2H/2HC PDF say 3mm for axis diameter:

    http://www.midori.co.jp/e_pdf/orange/006-007-QP-2H-QP-2HC.pdf

     

    This picture (Cougar Word) show one these sensor (pre Uber NXTII kit) with bushing on axis to match original potentiotemer axis diameter. This kind of potentiometer have a ~5/6mm diameter axis.

     

    http://cougar.flyfoxy.com/images/cougar/Hall_and_OEM_pots.jpg

     

    You need find a way to measure his Uber NXT mounting hole, what is not difficult using a caliper.

  4. No, the 10k don't limit the response, since in USB joystick* is not used for read resistance but voltage variation.

     

    What limit the response is degree of movement.

     

    Joystick pot' have a resistance trail done for read the voltage variation 0 - 5v or 0 - 3,5v in Saitek (to hidden electrical noise in cheap circuit) in ~40 degrees.

    This models are done under order for the industry (probable you find cheap ones of this version in AliExpress).

     

    Pot' that you find in electronic shop have trail for 270 degrees, so if you turn then only ~30 degrees, the voltage variation is proportional smaller as the axis resolution.

     

    How critical? Don't know, so do the test.

     

    In the perfect world you just buy a new 30/40 degrees pot from Saitek and replace the fault one.

     

    But in real world you need improvise (or buy a rudder pedal). :)

     

    BTW - I see many people in sim forums that replace fault pot' with DIY HALL sensor assembly (like the one in the previous pictures) and are satisfied with results, include in X-52.

     

    Is just not "PnP" is need fit, test... again and again and again. :)

     

    What you can try, is cheap. 2/3$ for the sensor (Allegro A1324, Honeywell SS495A1), ~1$ for circular diametrical neodymium magnet.

     

    * About the pot K value what I read in these forum are:

     

    In a USB joystick circuit a lower value 1 ~ 10K will take more more amperage from the USB circuit, a high value 50 ~ 100K will take less, but is subject to pick more electrical noise.

     

    For example, in the popular Leo Bodnar BU0836A USB joystick controller you can use potentiometer from 1 to 100K.

    http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=204

    • Like 1
  5. You can buy the BI Tech sensor online in Digikey (USA) or Mouser.

     

    http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=6127V1A60L.5&v=987

     

    Same for Bourns, Spectrol potentiometers. In this case look for one pot' with similar physical size of the one that will replace, to make more easy to fit. You need a 50k LINEAR (B code) potentiometer.

     

    The shop we have in my small town only has 10kOhm single turn pots.

     

    You can buy this and test, the fact that are 10k is not a issue.

     

    The ideal is remove the Saitek pot' and take to the shop to compare with the available.

    The more critical detail is the axis diameter.

     

    There a different device, a R/C transmitter, but with the same problem, replace the 30 degrees pot', and a different solution, include for the electric range (30 vs 270):

     

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2007556

  6. Using a "non-joystick" pot' - this have a special serigraphy for limit the electric range in 30-40 degrees - you are limiting the axis resolution, since a conventional 270 degrees pot' expect the voltage variation in this range.

     

    But if no other option, better than a fault pot, as see in YT video. :)

     

    One these don't fit? Is 15$.

     

    http://pt.farnell.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/6127v1a60l-5/sensor-hall-0-2v-20v-to-10v-60deg/dp/2319671

     

    Since the Saitek circuit work with 3,5v will be need take +5V from USB cable for supply the HALL.

  7. Is not a "PnP" solution, but you can transform the damaged pot in a HALL Sensor with a Allegro A1324 and magnet:

     

    http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2015/03/full-37484-99347-dscf5844.jpg

     

    http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2014/11/full-37484-90677-post_59452_0_69477800_1415263502.jpg

     

    Or adapt a quality pot (Bourns, Spectrol, Alphs...) in the place - if find one with 50-90 degrees of electrical range, better:

     

  8. Would be good to know what joystick he has now, maybe it can be rewired with a different controller and sensors.

     

    A thing to consider, if he has, for example, a CH stick - probable the one that last 15 years as stated in OP:

     

    Arduino PRO Micro board + MMjoy2 (12 bits) firmware ~20$

    Pot' like HALL sensor 2x (15$ each) = 30$

     

    Anyway up to 100$ joystick options that worth consider.

     

    Tm.T16000M ~60$, 16? bits, Hall sensor (same of Warthog) in X,Y axis, cheap pot' on throttle and twist rudder, HAT and 4 buttons on grip + 6 usable on base (+ 6 in "wrong" side). "Toy" look and feel.

     

    Defender Cobra M-5 - ~60$ 12 bits, contact less sensor in X,Y axis, cheap pot' on throttle and twist rudder, HAT + 7 buttons on grip and 3 mode switch (+14 virtual buttons) + dual trigger. Difficult to find. Different visual from other stick's (that looks toy, "spacial" or "F-16").

     

    CH Combatstick ~ 100$ (obsolete) USB 1.1 8 bits controller, good quality pot's, X, Y throttle, HAT + 10 buttons. The 2 extra press buttons (relative to F-16 layout) instead HAT is good for WWII planes, despite the less 6 "buttons" on final count.

     

    Or second hand: Microsoft Force Feedback 2 USB, Saitek X-52 HOTAS.

  9. It's the sim world, some want commands options that mimic the real planes, others only "press G for landing gear up and down, B for bomb..." and some that (any) plane controls just match with HOTAS Warthog buttons. :)

  10. I dont know with Saitek soft, but with Xpadder you can do this, just map a sequence with stop function between each press:

     

    http://s13.postimg.org/yjmvojm5j/Xpadder.jpg

     

    First button press 1, second 2... 8, then stop, and the sequence start again.

     

    Drawback of this kind of command: sometimes you don't go to the end of the sequence and restart the game, so the sequence dont start on 1...

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