Sokol1_br
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Posts posted by Sokol1_br
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Curious mechanism in this DIY collective, the guy use a "ratchet" to stop.
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Yes, but there must adequate accommodation to simulate the shorter stick. Why? Because main stream sticks are all shorter.
Radically yes, see at page 118 of this old Computer Pilot magazine: :joystick:
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Adjust the trim tabs without engine running make no movement in control surfaces:
Elevator:
Rudder at ~2:06
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I wonder, what is the cheapest base one you can attach it to and keep all buttons and axis working?
VKB base, the other option is use the "cut down" MCG-TM version in Warthog base plus a ~$ 80 adapter - and in this case loose the best of the package, the "Next Gen" gimbal. :joystick:
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Maybe, but it has not proven wrong, June became July that became August, that will soon be September. ;)
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Oh man, I'd like to get this joystick. How long do we have to wait for it?
:)
Just a guess: "Two mounts, be sure!" but if Chinese New Year came first then is "Two seasons, be sure!"
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MMjoySetup (for Arduinos with MMjoy2 firmware) allow set deadzones, axis resolution, invert axis, adjust axis curves, buttons profile, buttons mode... ( similar to VKB DevCfg or Kreml F2/F2 - another Russian made USB joystick controller), this adjusts is saved in controller EPROM and not in software running in games background, what means no extended keyboard emulation with scripts like CH or Tm softwares.
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Don't forget the option of buy Warthog grip only (~$120) and use in BRD or VirPil bases - is "bolt and play".
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The maker did only two posts in il2.ru forum:
https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/5883-3d-pechat/page-2
Maybe require loguin (same from il2sturmovik.com).
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Electronics for DIY is very accessible today, and cheap with Arduino + MMjoy2 or EasyJoy32 firmwares.
Carve a "F-16'ish" stick or throttle grip in wood, make a plug, mold in fiberglass etc depends on "sculptor" skill - a forum colleague do their DIY sticks in this way.
The real difficult is the "details" - proper HAT's and buttons caps to look "real", anyway consider 3D print for this parts.
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Sure, the guy did this for Cobra M5 base and use Saitek grip, certainly result better that Cobra/Saitek gimbals.
https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_08_2017/post-98424-0-35981300-1502740803.jpg
Seems he not even consider spring use, but rubber bands only due the format of support.
Warthog solution - other than VKB, VirPil, Bauer bases - needs to be created yet. :)
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https://s3.postimg.org/5hsijtvhv/post-98424-0-44666700-1502740863.jpg
Black part PTEG
Pink part Z-Ultra
https://github.com/o-devices/o-joystick-hdk
EDIT - The author say that Z-ultra maybe is the product name in Polish market, if don't find this can use PTEG for all parts, using high fill rate for CAM arms and his bearing support.
The CAM profile in STL drawings is slight different from pictures, but is the last revision.
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Melexis MLX90333 "3D" HALL sensor can be used with MMjoy2 in analog mode.
Available assembled in this small PCB in eBay or Aliexpress:
Connections for X, Y axes:
- GND> GND 5V Arduino
- VCC> 5V arduino
- OU1 (X data): A0 Arduino
- OU2 (Y data): A1 Arduino
If connected trough ADC MCP3208, using SPI connection resolution result in 12 bits.
Test on T.16000M gimbal (thanks to calagan57)
http://Https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnYz1J-O26c
Possible base for "3D" gimbal:
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PCB's for use with Arduino PRO Micro: connections expansion board, PCB for TLE501x, for ADC MCP3208, for Shift Register CD4021B or 74HC165:
File in Sprint-Layout, can be printed with free Sprint-Layout Viewer.
https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_08_2017/post-17384-0-06011100-1502699478.jpg
The forum maybe require password - is the same from il2sturmovik.com.
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I suggest you be more specific "Can someone in 'XYZ' country put together a SW2..."
because send 2 sticks two times across the world can became expensive. :)
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In Spitfire IXe adjust elevator trim with joy buttons or keypress is very slow.
Rudder on contrary respond more fast than should for be practical.
But make a test with that slider axis on base of Warthog throttle assign this for elevator or rudder trim and see if work better.
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For ~$ 10 Arduino PRO Micro with MMJoy2 firmware.
Read to use the most affordable is DS 12 bis controller - $39.75 - free shipping.
5 axis > just what F-16 TQS need.
32 buttons
http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/12-bit-controllers.html
BDW - Use this parts at start save you a lot of work, specially with switches:
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You have to use TM's Target software.
TARGET don't have 8 axes limitation like Windows?
Stick - 2
Throttle - 5
Pedal - 3
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Latest versions is in Logitech (now Saitek brand owner) page, under "X52 Space/Flight H.O.T.A.S. Software"
http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/x52-space-flight-simulator-controller/downloads
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If possible try re-assign the axis for the planes that don't work.
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Probable the 1st user pictures.
https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/5326-obsuzhdenie-proekta-vpc-mangust-50/page-26#entry548277
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a short question concerning the standalone grip. Is there anyway to connect hte grip directly to the pc without the Virpil base or Warthog base? I've got the t.16000m and therefor have a lack of buttons and switches. The stick-base combo is more what i can spend atm and getting the grip only would be a good start provided you can hook it up directly to the pc somehow. Any idea on that?
Is not impossible - but require good amount of DIY.
First: T.16000M controller manage 16 buttons + POV HAT
T50 (and Warthog) grip has 19 buttons + POV HAT - T50 has a additional axis (brake lever).
So just plug T50 in T.16000M base will not work, first because T50/Warhog grip send buttons inputs for controller through Shift Register serial protocol.
T.16000M base seems manage buttons through diode matrix (since cost $0,0x less), a different protocol.
Second even if you are able to overcome this some buttons (3) in T50/Warthog grip will not work due lack or T.16000M controller capability.
But you can just use a Arduino PRO Micro or Teensy with MMjoy2 firmware that is compatible with Shift Register serial protocol - or write a Arduino code if are use do this - what is easy and cost little (Arduino PRO Micro clones is ~6 in eBay) for manage grip buttons.
This Milopapa topic exemplify well - just with other parts - how do this:
https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=152723
In this way you make a dual joystick with this "Franken'stick":
T.16000M for manage axis (optionally can use their buttons input for "button box") and T50 grip became other joystick. Two USB cables is connect to computer.
For modern flight games (AKA "simulators") this solution don't cause problems because they can use multiples controllers, but for "AAA" games with "flight things" e.g. BF's maybe cause issue, generally they use one joystick only. No clue about "Space games" (my interest in then is like for Star Wars movies = 0).
Make the T.16000M base compatible with Warthog/T50 nut is no difficult, the need parts is available in , probable require some trim in lower part as is done for other models, what you need is the threaded part. T.16000M "twist rudder" certainly need be erased.
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If you intend is use a better base like VirPil or Baur BRD bases - F22 PRO base has too heavy springs for comfortable use and lot of play in gimbal pivot's (no bushing or bearing is used) what make problematic for use contactless sensor - both are "Bolt and Play" compatible with Cougar/Warthog grips.
With parts Debolestis link you leave F22 grip "Bolt and Play".
You can buy from Thrustmaster a standalone Warthog grip (without base) for around $120, compare with this price what you will spend in the modification, in the positive side F22 PRO switches is OMRON (like in CH, VKB, Virpil sticks, not sure but think that in Cougar too) and not that cheap (to make) copper membranes switches used in Warthog grip.
Flight model thoughts
in DCS: Spitfire L.F. Mk. IX
Posted · Edited by Sokol1_br
Because the game controls allow you "cheat" adding "fake toe" brakes to Spit, you can add more than one axis for "Wheel brakes", so add right and left brake pedals axis.
What he explain is that you need move the rudder bar for same side after press right or left brake pedal to make effect only in that wheel, what is a bit awkward solution.