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How sensitive are the steppers for the balance of the pointer? I can see from the data sheets that they have minimal torque. Is it nessecary to have the pointer balanced around the mounting hole? Or cloud I cust make a 1.5mm white acrylic cut? Havent got the steppers yet, but currently drawing the engines panel i ACAD. Regards, Tore

The link should now be correct (http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Testinstrument-og-Elektronikk/Indikatorklokke-191443/) Translated (by google): https://translate.google.no/translate?sl=no&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=no&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.biltema.no%2Fno%2FBil---MC%2FVerktoy-og-verkstedutstyr%2FTestinstrument-og-Elektronikk%2FIndikatorklokke-191443%2F&edit-text= regards, Tore

Thanks John, First off all, I use end mills and engraving tools from CNC-plus.de in Germany, the bits are produced in Germany and are of very good quality. I too have tried eBay Chinese knockoffs and totally agree with you. I pay 4-5 € per pc, so its very expensive compared to eBay, but it's definitely worth it! That being said, I only have 20 deg cutters, I think I will have to order some 60 deg as well, and also I have some spiral cutting bits. Could these be used? Like this one: https://cnc-plus.de/en/Engraving-tools/Spiral-Engraving-Bit/ Second, imperial vs metrics.... don't get me started ;) I can sure operate in imperial as well, so we'll use those :) I'm pretty used to converting between. (I just don't understand why the world wouldn't settle for one type of measurements... just pick one, a Meter or feet is still the same around the world) :) I have ACAD installed on all my computers, including the one in my shop with CamBam on. Will try the font you are referring to. I've previously installed the MS33558 as it's supposed to be the correct font for the A-10C panels, but I'm more than willing to change that for something that works. I've had the mill go into the holding tab once, and then another time it hit the top off the Z axis. I should probably check my lead screw bearings.. It was actually one of the first times i used the CNC and might have had some impact. I didn't think about it before you mentioned it. This is the device I have on order for measuring: http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Testinstrument-og-Elektronikk/Indikatorklokke-191443/ (sorry, it's all in Norwegian, but I think you'll get it) it does have an accuracy of 0,03 mm = 0,00118". The plastic I use for my top layers of the panel is these: https://cnc-plus.de/en/Materials---Accessories/Rotary-and-Laser-Engraving-Plastic--200x300mm-Engraving-Plates-.html?XTCsid=c7dblv471n3ol1atlpc11ls207 About the feed rate I use, when I engrave with the v-cutter is 31.49 (imperial) / 800 (metric) When milling I use between 7.87 and 11.8 (200 - 300 mm). I have my spindle set to about 2/3 of max speed, due to the fact that in full speed it actually melted the plastic once. When I cut acrylic I manually regulate the speed based on the vibration in the machine. (lots of vibration = turn up speed). When I cut I usually do this: 1. select the rectangle / circle 2. select profile 3. inside / outside as required 4. cut increment 0.06" 5. final depth 0.12" My acrylic is 3mm (0.118") 6. set macining origin as required 7. generate g-code and export it 8. open the code in Mach3 9. set x and y for the origin 10. set the z axis manually, as I don't have any other way to do it. (visual measurement) Also I forgot, I set the federate as required. usually 7.87" - 11.8" (200-300) for acrylic cutting. When I select the cutting tool diameter, I've been setting 0.008 on my v-cutter (as it doesn't have a with and it extremely sharp, but I had to put something in or else the pocketing would go on forever) The end mills I've been using I've used the actual diameter. I will try to cut these circles you have mentioned later this weekend, but I'll have to see if I can make the time. It's start of the easter holiday and the wife and kids have included me in most of the plans :music_whistling: Thank you again for helping me with this, I can't say how much I appreciate it :) Regards, Tore

Thanks again Warhog for your good tips and advice, I really appreciate it! As a matter of fact, I have been using CamBam since I got the machine. Its a very good program indeed, and I do almost all my drawing in it. I'm also used to working in ACAD, but have also discovered that CamBam is very good for drawing. I have a measuring device on order now, and will probably have it in the mail after easter holiday. Looks like I'm reading the Mach3 manual and not crime novels this easter :book: One thing about CamBam and engraving. Usually the letters are "pockets" (if you know what I mean), for example a S is not a stick S but an area outlined with a line. How to I setup this the best way for machining in CamBam? I have both V-cutters and very thin end mills. Usually I just make new text with a stick font and engrave 0.2 mm with an v-cutter, but i've also tried 0.6 mm end mills, but that usually gets to thick. If I try to engrave standard letters, I only get it to engrave the outline of the letters, and it doesn't look good. Regards, Tore

Here is the DXF for the caution panel (PCB and acrylic) that i have worked out, (with the basis from reactorone's panels). If anyone have use for them, they are avaliable here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31661823/Privat/2015-03-26%20caution%20light_panel%20LED%20MEGA%20NEW%20working.dxf If there is interest for CAD-files and other things, please let me know. I'll post them here. Also, please remember that the panels are not of the exact authentic measurements. All I want is a functioning cockpit with a good resemblance to the real thing. :thumbup:

Thanks for the feedback. I've bought some 20x02 displays and they work like a charm. Actually got them to fit inside the standard dimensions CMSP.

Ok, new PCB milled and the arrays fit perfectly. Now I'll just have to wait for the new soldering tips to arrive in the mail, as the one I have left is useless... Pretty worn as you can see. Have been reading about backlash today and will do some tests tomorrow if I can get my hands on a measuring device. Looking into starting with the CDU tomorrow, but have to do a bit reading on matrixes. Thanks for the info on the stepper motors. Will order some of them next week. And to all of you, thanks for all the help and tips/feedback! I would be lost without it. I'm really learning a lot very fast on this project.

Ok, so now i got my Darlington arrays. Do I need a separate resistor for each LED? Or could I use one on the VCC pin of the Darlington? Disregard: found out that thay have internal resistors.

Do you by any chance have a link for the double shaft axels that you use on your fuel indicator? I've been looking for something like that now. Also, I tried to find the VID 60 steppers. Is this the ones? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-New-instrument-Cluster-Stepper-motor-vid29-05-/300673452201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460188c8a9 Maybee this one for the altimeter? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-New-instrument-Cluster-Stepper-motor-vid29-05-/300673452201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460188c8a9

Hi, thanks for the feedback. I know it looks very bad. You clearly know a lot more than me about the art of CNC, as I don't even know what backlash is. I use mach3 yes, and it's probably time for me to start reading some more :book: That beeing said, I paid 600$ for the machine on eBay and I'm aware of the fact that you usually get what you pay for... It's probably a very good reason for the other CNC-machines costing 1000$ more. I use a v-cutter and are engraving the letters as pockets I didn't know how else to setup the machining, as the text actually was splines and bold. Anyway I tried to change to stick fonts today and it worked a bit better. You can see for yourself in the attached picture. The machine still isn't very accurate, but it's an improvement.

Tonight's work. Got the 20x02 lcd fitted in my CMSP. Had to cut a bit of PCB ... Have run out of switches, (on),off,on. So I'm waiting for some parts at the moment. Now..... How to make a altimeter with servos.... Any suggestions?

Thanks, I haven't tried them with the switches yet, so we'll have to see. Will try to wire it up tomorrow. What voltage did you use? I'm going for 12V.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=271492707261

A little bit of UFC building tonight, as I got the new tactile switches with led lighting. Now I'm just waiting for the Amber ones for the MC button. Buttons are white acrylic sprayed grey and then engraved.

20x02 CMSP LCD up and running! Wrong colour and all, but got them cheap second hand. Will probably get some green ones later. Now I'm waiting for the Darlington arrays to arrive.

Thanks, I´ve just ordered some Darlington arrays now. Will have to wait for them to arrive from the UK before I start again. Next up is the CMSP panel. I´ve read a bit about 16x2 vs 20x2 LCDs. Currently I have 2 16x2 panels, but I understand that it will be best with a 20x2 and I have some on order from eBay. Don´t want to start cutting before I have the panels (as the dimmensions probably will be a bit different). I´m also looking into the Engine gauges, but can´t seem to find how to address the servo motors on a PCA9685 PWM driver. Will have to do a bit more google... :pilotfly:

I'm planning on using a Mega to control this panel. And as far as I can see it can supply 800 mA. Then I should be well within the limits. Anyway, I ordered some matrix chips from eBay, so if it doesn't work I'll switch to that solution.

http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ArduinoPinCurrentLimitations Here is some info from the Aruduino site.

New casing for the LEDs on my caution panel. Looks better. Soldering the PCB

@Warhog: a matrix won't draw any less power than my setup. 20 mA is 20 mA any way you connect it. I'm using 1k ohm resistors on every led. Calculated current draw is 7 MA. Total of 336 mA when all the LEDs are being lit. That should be within the Arduino limits according to their page. Anyway, thanks for the tip on light bleed. As you can see, work is in progress. As for the backlighting, I'm using led strips turned upside down and glued to the back of my panels (which is all white acrylic). Will post pictures later.

Hi, I'm trying to get DCS BIOS to display the CMSP on a 16x2 LCD display hooked up to my arduino. I can see that DCS BIOS doesn't include the code, and I've been trying to search the net for some tips or some code I can include in my sketch. I have the LCD up and running, and have the DCS BIOS template loaded. But from there I'm a bit stuck... Anyone care to shed some light on this? (I'm pretty new to Arduino, so It maybe a bit easier or harder than I think maybe...)

Ok, so i've finished the landing gear panel, started the UFC, Caution Light Panel and the CMSP. Planning to mill a custom PCB for the Caution light panel, will be the task at hand tonight. Also, the UFC doesn't look pretty on the inside, but that's not the important part [emoji6] I just glued the tactile switches on the back of the acrylic. Attached is some of the pictures. Will post more detailed later, as I'm on my phone right now. T

I've tested the light bleed with this paint and it looks like it will be ok. It's a kind of plastic paint which isolates the light pretty good. T

Yes I know. The fat line is a result of me forgetting to delete just that machining line in the g-code. It's been machined with a 2mm end-mill, not the v-shaped engraving tool it was supposed to. I't was late in the night and this was the last of the engraving panels, so I couldn't make a new one. Have new engraving plates on order and will make a new one when I get it. :) Also the text and boxes are a bit offset due to the fact that I moved the machining origin and forgot to note the coordinates. The result was that I had to try to align in manually / visually... Hopefully the shipment from cnc-plus.de will be here when I'm back home (They are not the fastest supplier), so I can make a new one. Thanks for the feedback :thumbup:

Ok, so now I tried to use my own text. Looks much better. Also finished the middle layer of the LG panel.