Deltaalphalima1

If it stopped working when you were moving things around, it could well be a problem with the wire/connector that might have shifted. The best way is to disconnect both ends of the sensor cable and swap them around, so the end that was connected to the slew sensor is now connected to the throttle and vice versa, that will make sure all the connections have been re-seated in case there is any dirt or corrosion causing a problem - and then try running the calibration again after reseating the cable. If the calibration was run when the sensor wasn't working, it can get stuck with a 'zero' calibration, which can to be fixed by running the tool again when it is working properly. If it's still not working do you have the original sensor you could test with?

That is probably a calibration issue after the update, it shouldn't really change anything, but sometimes it seems to. Can you try the calibration procedure and see if that fixes it?: 1: Clear any existing Windows calibration in the game controller menu by going to Set up USB game controller >> Throttle HOTAS Warthog >> Settings >> Reset to Default >> Apply >>OK (If Apply is greyed out then the calibration is already cleared, and you can move on to the next step.) 2: Check if you have any other joystick programs that could interfere with the calibration - such as TARGET or JoystickGremlin. You may need to disable them while you run the calibration. 3: Download the latest version for the calibration tool from my website (Thumbstick_Sensor_Calibration_Tool) Make sure you have extracted the zip file after downloading. The "A10_calibration.txt" file must be in the same folder "Throttle Warthog Calibration (V1.07).exe" is run from. 4: Run the calibration tool and carefully follow the on-screen instructions. It should run through all the way through with no error messages. Be very careful to move the throttles to the OFF, IDLE and MAX positions when asked. OFF is the fully back position over the detent lifts, IDLE is the next stop up or the minimum flight setting, and MAX is the fully forward position over any afterburner detents. If you have any custom detents or afterburner lifts installed, you might need to remove them temporarily for the calibration. When running the calibration tool, it’s only necessary to push the sensor until it just reaches the edge of its travel, don't push it with force further than that.

I think 2018_TMHW_1.exe is for the throttle and the original stick base, and 2025_TH_4.exe is just the new AVA base. Ideally it should have no errors during the firmware update, so i'm not sure what's going on there, but if TARGET is showing V100 and your thorttle is working then you should be good to go!

It looks like the firware tool is failing at the first step, putting the throttle into the "bulk" driver mode, which it then uses to update the firmware. A few things to try: Make sure you have all the warthog drivers installed (the drivers are required for the update to work, dowload and install "Package drivers - Hotas Warthog - 2018_TMHW_1 + Firmware" https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/hotaswarthog-en/#drivers Idealy make sure your throttle is plugged into a USB 2.0 port, directly into your motherboard, not through a USB hub Try running the firmware update tool as administrator

Yes both are in stock and ready to ship if you place an order through the website

To be honest I have never worked out exactly what the other settings do in the file. I did look at replacing the friction lever potentiometer a while ago and ran into the same issue as you, where the original pot has a much smaller output range than most alternatives. You could try to change the variables: MultInit_TP = 0x39; // 54 0011 1001 +57 DEC MultInit_TN = 0xDE; // 55 1101 1110 (twos compliment, I think) -37 DEC I’m sure they are related, but not sure what they do. Mabey try changing first to: MultInit_TP = 0x0A; // 54 00001010 +10 DEC MultInit_TN = 0xF6; // 55 11110110 -10 DEC And then to: MultInit_TP = 0x64; // 54 01100100 +100 DEC MultInit_TN = 0x9C; // 55 10011100 -100 DEC And see if those change anything obvious? Other than that, the easiest way is probably to reduce the output of the hall sensor. Either mechanically limit the travel, or electrically reduce the output somehow, to match what the throttle expects.

I haven’t been able to get simapppro to do it, but I have got it working using a plugin for joystick gremlin. I think that is probably the best way to achieve what you're looking for. The plugin should work with any joystick and axis/button combination, in case anyone else needs it. It centres and stops an axis from moving when a button is held down. It does one axis at a time, so for the slew you will need to add two instances of the plugin to joystick gremlin, one for X and one for Y. I have attached the plugin and some instructions on how to set up joystick gremlin and vjoy. It is a bit rushed and based on an old project I did, so let me know if you need any more help configuring it. stop_axis.py vJoy and setup (stop_axis).zip

That's great to hear! I don't know of any easy way to disable the axes on keypress. Surely it is possible, but it might need a custom script in simapppro, or extra joystick software. I'm not to familiar with all that - but I will look into it and see if I can work something out.

Our WW F16EX force sensor is new this month (July) but we have already sold all of the first batch! We are currently making the next batch which should be ready in around two weeks time.

I'm glad to hear you were able to get it working! Did you get the genuine Molex cable? That should have the correct pinout. Let me now if you would like me to send a replacement cable, it might take a week or two to get to you but it's the least I can do if the original was faulty.

That's great to hear! Sometimes these things can just get stuck in a loop, turning everything off and on again and going back the start can get it working again If it is working at all it's probably not the cable. It is a digital communication for the axes so if there are any bad connections it will almost always just stop working entirely on both axes. Have you cleared the windows cal and run the tool from my website? Where are you testing to see the jumping you describe? If you want to try a new cable the Molex PicoBlade is the correct genuine part, just make sure you get one long enough, that link is only 50mm.

That's a strange one, sounds like you have tried everything I would normally recommend. Probably best to go back to the start, make sure you are on v23 firmware, connect the old sensor and recalibrate, and check both axes are moving. Unplug the throttle, reconnect the new sensor, then plug the throttle back in and without recalibration or anything, check if you can see any movement on either axis. If the old sensor is working in that configuration, but the new sensor still shows no movement, then it is probably something hardware related with the new sensor. If you can send me a pm or email I can give some move specific advice

Yes the 'reset to deault' will clear any windows calibration, I think apply will be greyed out if it is already cleared. The calibration tool does all the axes on the throttle, it isn’t required to recalibrate after installing the new firmware, but it is probably a good to do it every now and again anyway. There are two calibration programs in the folder you can download from my website, 'HW_Stick Calibration' and 'Throttle Warthog Calibration' , so you calibrate them separately. If your happy with how your stick is working then no need to recalibrate it too, especially if you have custom limits that might get complicated.

There is deadzone set in a few places, I will try to explain and some of them can be reduced. Firstly there is some minimal deadzone built into the firmware in the slew upgrade, that is necessary as the ministick sensor doesn’t return exactly to centre every time, so you get drift without it. There is also some deadzone inside the warthog throttle firmware that is set when running the Thrustmaster calibration tool. If you find the 'A10_calibration.txt' file inside the folder with the calibration tool, you can change settings: Standard_DZ_SX = 0x05; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x05; // 21 It has already been changes to 5 as standard, but you can do down to 01, so change to: Standard_DZ_SX = 0x01; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x01; // 21 Then rerun the calibration tool as normal. Lastly make sure you have cleared any windows calibration, as that can add some. If it is still too jumpy around the centre, adding curves in DCS is probably the best next step. That way you can reduced the sensitivity around the centre and hopefully make it smoother. Let me know how you get on! Our modified fast slew firmware V100 can be downloaded from my website, https://deltasimelectronics.com/pages/install-instructions The standard firmware comes with the update tool, which is included in the standard warthog driver package, available from the Thrustmaster website download section.