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Flamin_Squirrel

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About Flamin_Squirrel

  • Birthday 10/01/1981

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  • Flight Simulators
    DCS MSFS2020
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    UK

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  1. How so, VRS? If so, make shall approaches, and approach INTO THE WIND! It makes things so much easier. I think many sim pilots forget about/don't realise the importance of this, but it really does help.
  2. Sloppy technique! Try taking-off into wind, and accelerate in ground effect until you've gained some airspeed, and you should be fine with high temps!
  3. Got a track? I expect there are things you can do to make things easier for yourself.
  4. That's because it basically is the same as from a P-47!
  5. To be sure of zero slip you really need an aerodynamic indicator, like a yaw vane or even a bit of string tied to the canopy. For the ball to work perfectly, there has to be symmetrical thrust / drag - which of course helicopters don't have. See example below: string centred in forward flight, ball is deflected left slightly.
  6. I'm aware of all of that. That was my point.
  7. Try moving the master volume knob away from "MIN". Shouldn't work, but seems to.
  8. You might be right. Lots of forces at play. Just doesn't seem intuitively right to me that it can be, level, constant heading, ball in the middle, and be in trim if it's not heading straight ahead.
  9. Shouldn't the FPM (in a zero wind condition) by definition be straight ahead for there to be zero aerodynamic slip? As you point out in the first paragraph, the ball is perfect when you've got symmetric thrust/drag, but helicopters don't. I suspect the reason the ball is still used is because while not perfect, it's a very simple device, and it's close enough (and the FPM can't be used as it's influenced by wind).
  10. Not in power hydraulic systems they're not - they're always (at least I'm yet to encounter an exception) positive displacement. Aircraft usually use piston pumps too, which vary volume to provide constant pressure, meaning pump output can compensate for changes in RPM (within reason).
  11. It is possible to recover if you load the rotor by pulling back on the cyclic. Not easy though (especially if you're trimmed forward) I'll give you that.
  12. Based on what bradmick's said it's likely excessive rotor drag that's the only thing wrong. So while the speed at which rotor RPM drops may reduce, the result of you letting it drop will not. Therefore you shouldn't concern yourself about losing power/hydraulics - it's a red herring.
  13. Don't let the nose drop. Pulling back on the cyclic will load the rotor bring RPM back up. Turning works too, but increases descent rate, so less ideal. It's not easy though that's for sure.
  14. I think you might be underestimating the importance of keeping rotor RPM up - 75% is extremely low. It's also necessary for hydraulics, it prevents the rotor blades from coning up/bending, and most importantly without it you won't be able to arrest your descent at the end of the auto anyway. Lowering the collective in the event of power loss must be IMMEDIATE. If you let rotor RPM drop below 90% you're probably too slow.
  15. The Apache does seem a little squirrely - but hovering is unlikely to ever be easy for newcomers in their first heli and will always take practice. "Just git gud" is a blunt way of saying there aren't any short cuts, which is true to an extent. That said, there are tips that can help. Probably the best one is understanding that maintaining the attitude of the helicopter is key. To be able to hover means your eyes have to be very sensitive to detecting correcting changes in the helicopter's attitude. Find a wide flat area, lift off the ground and try to hold an attitude. If you start to drift don't panic, just readjust the attitude a little to try and correct and hold it again. See what happens, and repeat. AVOID LARGE CORRECTIONS!
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