LASooner

I got this one, I haven't programmed it yet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JKCDHRW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_9 Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk /topic/350660-desk-mounted-ah-64-apache-cockpit-for-vr/#findComment-5462623 Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

where did you get this monitor? null

Each NATO panel width is 5.75" Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

These are in inches

3d printed PLA, I used some fake stone texture to give it the bumpy look, but i'm not real happy with it, I think I may sand it down a little and repaint

Counter Measures Panel and Box

couple several day prints over 2 printers, but the base console mount is printed, and all the panels fit as expected. Because I have smaller print beds I had to break it up into several parts and will glue and screw it all together before putty, prime and sand.

As I wind down on the F-14, I decided it was time to get back to the cockpit I started before that. Before I got my 3D printer I bought a bunch of AH-64 panels from TekCreations, but after getting my 1st 3D printer I took a several year detour to working on the Tomcat. It's time to go back to the Apache one and use all those panels I bought. But I obviously have to fill in the gaps on the parts I don't have. I thought I would start with the trickiest one which is the Keyboard unit and how it mounts to the controls. I'm still having issues with some of the buttons not contacting the microswitches cleanly so I'm going to try 6mm length switches instead of the 5mm I'm currently using. My plan is to build a purpose built console for the panels instead of the modular boxes I used on the tomcat. It will sit on an 2020 extrusion box like the Tomcat cockpit so I can move them out of the way when I need to use the desk. Storage is becoming an issue, so I don't know what I'm going to do about that. Here's the current state of the keyboard unit. No plans to put an LCD in. As it's hard to source a single line LCD that's about 4" long. If anyone knows of one let me know. I tried the 40x2 that some people are using but the dimensions are off. Same for the 24x2. So for now, an empty hole with some light gels taped in

Fixed and final

Has anyone been able to get the covered switches to bind to a single switch position? I was able to get the inboard and outboard SPOILER ORIDE switches to work correctly setting the pressed to open the cover and the down to put the switch in ORIDE, And close when switching back to normal. But using the same function with the other covers, I'm not able to get it to work with the asymetric limiter, the hydraulic transfer, emergency gen reset and the hydraulic tests. The cover opens, but the switch doesn't move, like it needs a delay from when the cover opens to when the switch is thrown. Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

I thought I was done with this one, then I realized I made a typo Need an up and a dn Sigh.... one day this war will end.

Thanks, I think I'm done, I don't want to have to sand and paint 10 more buttons :) Did you figure out which of those has the correct spacing? The piano switches that I have that I used on the tape player were too small to use. The panel would be about 75% of the actual size if I use them. Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

I finally got the master test knob working the way I wanted. I used a 12P1T rotary mounted on top of push/pull switch used for golf cart lights. It has it's own Arduino. I did have to decant the rotary and remove the limiter so it will rotate 360.

I would switch to FlightPanels fork, it's the only one being updated. There is a command file you edit to assign all your com ports for DCS Bios Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

I just want to clear something up, because I'm getting a lot of emails recently. I removed the HSD and VDI from the Shapeways store. The price they were charging to print was really unnerving, and since I wasn't making money on it, I didn't want to feel responsible for something someone paid close to $500 to have printed. So I removed those items. I will be reuploading them to Cults3D and Printables when I get a chance to package them up better. I will not be sending people STL's separately. I will let you know when I get them uploaded or you can just follow me on those sites. But nothing demotivates me more than people pushing me to do something before I'm ready. Those items will remain free, but not all the stuff I upload will.