MillKris

there is a temp solution to fix the UFC ghosting bug. go to : DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\F-15E\Cockpit\UFC\Indicator\UFC_Rear_init.lua find line : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC") replace by : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC_rear") Credits to this guy on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/16x8y49/comment/kctay6x/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

@Rainmaker there is a temp solution to fix the UFC ghosting bug. go to : DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\F-15E\Cockpit\UFC\Indicator\UFC_Rear_init.lua find line : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC") replace by : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC_rear") Credits to this guy on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/16x8y49/comment/kctay6x/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

looks very good! The malfunctioning UFC export appears to be a bug. I'm optimistic that it will be rectified in the upcoming update

@Rainmaker I would recommend starting with a test print for the buttons to see how the fit is. If necessary, you can scale down X and Y until it fits. This also depends on the printer. In my case, the buttons fit perfectly. In this instance, the STL files have already been scaled down by 1%. I'm glad to hear that you're making progress.

@Rainmaker Awesome! I noticed you're using the BBI 64. I just ordered mine as well. Just a heads up, I initially uploaded the wrong 'UFC Display Button,' which caused some interference with the display when pressed. I've since replaced them with the correct ones, 'UFC Display Button v2'.

Some Updates and changes: You need: 7" 800x600 4:3 CLAA070MA0ACW LCD Screen (or just a red acrylic glas for VR pilots) https://www.amazon.de/CLAA070MA0ACW-LCD-Bildschirm-TFT-Monitor-HDMI-Eingang-LCD-Controller-Board/dp/B072JTB73F/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1Q57UB0M245L&keywords=CLAA070MA0ACW&qid=1696496871&s=computers&sprefix=claa070ma0acw%2Ccomputers%2C95&sr=1-1 10 pieces: 6 x 6 x 10mm Tactile Switches (Display Buttons) https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 35 pieces 6 x 6 x 4.3mm Tactile Switches https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 4 Potentiometers https://www.ebay.de/itm/174261626629?var=473259663408 2 Rotary Encoders (Radio Channels) https://www.amazon.de/s?k=WayinTop+5+Set+360+Grad+Rotary+Encoder+Modul+EC11&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=YJ7QO6J3747X&sprefix=wayintop+5+set+360+grad+rotary+encoder+modul+ec11%2Caps%2C94&ref=nb_sb_noss 2 Dual Rotary Encoders (RadioVolume) https://www.ebay.de/itm/225271940062 2 ON-OFF-ON Switches https://www.ebay.de/itm/182568517273?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338748320&toolid=20006&customid=K4AVAs4ZAAAAgC9iOSdfZ7EEgU0AAAAAAA a Leobodnar BU0836X USB (or an Arduino for DCS BIOS) https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180 a 12-button joystick USB (not needed if you use Arduino) https://www.amazon.de/Quimat-Nullverz%C3%B6gerung-Encoder-Joystick-QR04/dp/B06XD1WF8G/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=176ESIHEU5QHW&keywords=12-button+joystick+USB&qid=1696496950&sprefix=12-button+joystick+usb+%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-8 few black M3, M4, M5 screws, some hot glue, some 3mm rigid foam board Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board. https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=300 !! NOTE !! This thing is BIG! If you have a small printer like me (Creality Ender 3), you have to print some parts WITHOUT rafts!!! You can label the panels by changing the filament at the appropriate print height in Cura (etc.). I only did this for the buttons. I printed the other labels on adhesive film. I made these prints resistant with acrylic paint. So, there is an option "NO-LABELS" for some STL parts. I have attached a suitable PNG. This can be easily printed on A4 adhesive film.For some areas in the interior, such as the housing for the electrical boards and the back panel of the UFC, I simply used a 3mm rigid foam board. I simply used a Leobodnar BU0836X USB board, as well as a simple 12-button joystick USB board. It's not pretty, but it works out of the box. Of course, you can also use a different solution (Arduino, etc.). # Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board Since I already use a 4K monitor and three 7" MFD screens, my monitor outputs were scarce. The solution was the "Matrox TripleHead2Go". I got the DP version cheaply on eBay. Here I combined my three 800x600 MFD screens into one 2400x600 screen. Now I only need one DP connection to the graphics card for my three MFDs, and I can connect the UFC to the graphics card with a DP to HDMI cable. The viewpoint export must be adjusted exactly so that the lines are readable. Please refer to the pictures at Thingiverse! Since I change the UFCs, throttles, and joysticks depending on the aircraft i fly, I have created various PowerShell scripts for starting DCS, which accordingly adjust the MonitorConfig, etc. before starting DCS If you only use the UFC in VR, you can also simply use a red acrylic glass instead of the LCD screen.

Added a some "straigt" parts so the UFC can be mounted at a 90-degree angle.

@Rainmaker it's the button matrix. I printed all of them white.

@Vakarian that would be awesome! Please let me know how you are progressing with this.

It's finally done and released! All files and Infos found here!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6248787 Please let me know what you think about it!

First flight test was a success! "Only the HUD controll box is missing now. The parts are currently being printed..."

@Sacarino111 Thank you very much for the praise. I'm familiar with Arduino USB HID, but I haven't had the time to really deep dive into it. Because I'm lazy, I've been using the controllers from Leo Bodnar so far. They support up to 64 inputs, which is usually sufficient. Dealing with the cables can be quite annoying, but fortunately, my girlfriend enjoys soldering.

#UPDATE: I uploaded a HowTo PDF with more informations and WIP pictures to Thingiverse. You can also download it from here: https://milkris.de/s/fn9isEywRaWQjxR DISCLAIMER: I’m not a professional maker! It’s not perfect, but it works and I’m fine with the result. Here and there, some filing, drilling, and gluing might be necessary... temp solution to fix the UFC ghosting bug. go to : DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\F-15E\Cockpit\UFC\Indicator\UFC_Rear_init.lua find line : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC") replace by : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC_rear") Parts needed: The STL files for 3d printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6248787 a 7" 800x600 4:3 CLAA070MA0ACW LCD Screen (or just a red acrylic glas for VR pilots)https://www.amazon.de/CLAA070MA0ACW-LCD-Bildschirm-TFT-Monitor-HDMI-Eingang-LCD-Controller-Board/dp/B072JTB73F/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1Q57UB0M245L&keywords=CLAA070MA0ACW&qid=1696496871&s=computers&sprefix=claa070ma0acw%2Ccomputers%2C95&sr=1-1 10 pieces: 6 x 6 x 10mm Tactile Switches (Display Buttons)https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 35 pieces 6 x 6 x 4.3mm Tactile Switcheshttps://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 4 Potentiometershttps://www.ebay.de/itm/174261626629?var=473259663408 2 Rotary Encoders (Radio Channels) https://www.amazon.de/s?k=WayinTop+5+Set+360+Grad+Rotary+Encoder+Modul+EC11&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=YJ7QO6J3747X&sprefix=wayintop+5+set+360+grad+rotary+encoder+modul+ec11%2Caps%2C94&ref=nb_sb_noss 2 Dual Rotary Encoders (RadioVolume)https://www.ebay.de/itm/225271940062 2 ON-OFF-ON Switches https://www.ebay.de/itm/182568517273?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338748320&toolid=20006&customid=K4AVAs4ZAAAAgC9iOSdfZ7EEgU0AAAAAAA a Leobodnar BU0836X USB (or an Arduino for DCS BIOS)https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180 a 12-button joystick USB (not needed if you use Arduino)https://www.amazon.de/Quimat-Nullverz%C3%B6gerung-Encoder-Joystick-QR04/dp/B06XD1WF8G/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=176ESIHEU5QHW&keywords=12-button+joystick+USB&qid=1696496950&sprefix=12-button+joystick+usb+%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-8 few black M3, M4, M5 screws, some hot glue, some 3mm PVC foam board Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board. https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=300 !! NOTE !! This thing is BIG! If you have a small printer like me (Creality Ender 3), you have to print some parts WITHOUT rafts!!! The UFC can be mounted slightly tilt forward or straight. There are two option you can print. You can label the panels by changing the filament at the appropriate print height in Cura (etc.). I only did this for the buttons. I printed the other labels on adhesive film. I made these prints resistant with acrylic paint. So, there is an option "NO-LABELS" for some STL parts. I have attached a suitable PNG or here https://milkris.de/s/DtK6gxqaiAgqQTo. This can be easily printed on A4 adhesive film.For some areas in the interior, such as the housing for the electrical boards and the back panel of the UFC, I simply used a 3mm PVC foam board. I simply used a Leobodnar BU0836X USB board, as well as a simple 12-button joystick USB board. It's not pretty, but it works out of the box. Of course, you can also use a different solution (Arduino, etc.). # Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board Since I already use a 4K monitor and three 7" MFD screens, my monitor outputs were scarce. The solution was the "Matrox TripleHead2Go". I got the DP version cheaply on eBay. Here I combined my three 800x600 MFD screens into one 2400x600 screen. Now I only need one DP connection to the graphics card for my three MFDs, and I can connect the UFC to the graphics card with a DP to HDMI cable. The viewpoint export must be adjusted exactly so that the lines are readable. Please refer to the pictures at Thingiverse! Since I change the UFCs, throttles, and joysticks depending on the aircraft i fly, I have created various PowerShell scripts for starting DCS, which accordingly adjust the MonitorConfig, etc. before starting DCS If you only use the UFC in VR, you can also simply use a red acrylic glass instead of the LCD screen. It's alive!!! it's a mess My little helper have soldered most of the wires My little corner. Full convertible Cockpit.

Same here!

Same!