brydling

Sorry for waking up an old thread, but I am having this issue right now. I don't think this counts as a WIP anymore? ;) Will try deleting the files from the .miz as mentioned. Edit: It worked. Don't know why it happened. I also tried the "Prepare mission" menu alternative, without knowing what it does. I noticed no difference from when you click fly.

You can also take a look at the B256A13 in the For Sale forum.

How nice of you to create a thread for Sweden's national day! ;)

The post had two parts. The last sentence was just a question but the first part was a bug report :) Are you sure it is a hat switch? I know it looks like a hat switch but it can still be analog.

When the Shkval is slewed with the POV hat in one of the diagonal directions (up+left, left+down, etc.) the slew rate accelerates like normal. When you release one of the directions, for example going from slewing up+left to just left, the slewing speed goes to zero and the acceleration starts over again, making it very annoying. Is the real slew hat made by switches or is it analog?

No problem. Let me know if you have more trouble! :)

I will have to pass on that question. I don't know and right now I don't have the time to test it. Maybe someone else knows the answer?

I just verified both in-game options and the input lua-files for all controllers. Only one axis is mapped to the function, plus the two keyboard buttons for increase/decrease.

Slew control is a relative axis while this is an absolute one. Changing the response curve here will maybe make the problem smaller on a tiny interval of the whole scale, but the full scale must be working.

I have witnessed this a lot of times too.

It is not a knob, it is an indicator. The range is adjusted by twisting the throttle grip. Can't be done with the mouse though afaik.

I have tried mapping the K-14 range to two different axes of my HOTAS WH Throttle. The range goes like crazy when the axis is moved. I have tried mapping the axes to different functions to verify that there is no problems with the axes themselves.

Do you have any form of IM account where I can try guiding you through some things?

Ah! I have seen that but forgot about it. Now I got to re-experience the excitement when reading about it! :)

CA? Did I miss the announcement of a new product?

Hi! Have you tried plugging it into another USB port or uninstalling the drivers from the device manager and then unplug and re-plug the board again? I'm glad to hear that! :) Thank you!

No I don't think that will work. Are you sure that you have a break before make switch?

Ah! Now I understand. Doesn't the sim offer separate bindings for "switch X off" and "switch X on"? Do you only have access to a toggle binding?

Why did you have to wire the switches up as on/on switches? I'm not sure I understand. That shouldn't be necessary. Also, why should an on/on switch register as on/off/on? Or are you talking about another switch in the latter part of the post? /Niclas

Are all the lights and knobs that are jittering bound to analog inputs on the board? /Niclas

Hi acemark! It should be I13. I have corrected this in the information. The board is not damaged in any way if you have one of the bad inputs turned on while the board is restarted. The only thing that happens is that the bootloader is started and you won't be able to use the board until you pull it out and plug it in again, with these inputs turned off. The tactile switch is for starting the bootloader. If you hold it pressed while plugging in the board, the bootloader is started. This should be the only way of starting the bootloader, but because of the bug the inputs in the 4:th row also starts it. /Niclas

Information about a bug and a workaround in the "official" thread (For Sale-section)!

I have found a bug in the bootloader of the B256A13 (thank you Holger for helping me with detailed info on when the error occures). The 4:th row from the top in each connector (I13, I29, I45, I61, etc.) should only be used for pushbuttons and other momentary switches! Due to an error in the bootloader code, the bootloader starts when one of these inputs are active while the board is starting up (computer restart or USB plugged in). If you use toggle switches or rotary switches on one of these inputs, you must make sure they are in a state that doesn't activate one of these inputs while the board is restarting! The best way to make sure this never happens is to only connect pushbuttons to these inputs, since you probably wont hold cockpit pushbuttons pressed while the board is restarting. The bootloader is used to update the software on the board. Due to a design decision the bootloader cannot update itself. That is because a corrupt software image should never destroy the board's bootloader, making the board totally unusable. Unfortunately, this means that the bootloader cannot be upgraded, so this workaround is the only way to get rid of the error. All boards produced from now on will have a correct bootloader. I am actually surprised that this error hasn't been reported by more people. I hope you can live with it! /Niclas Edit: Changed I15 to I13

Two different commons must never be connected together. Wire your inputs to the commons in the same column only. If we take the leftmost connector as an example, with the USB-connector facing towards you. The first wire (counting from the top) is I16, the second wire is I32, the third wire is I15, the fourth wire is I31. The last eight wires are C1, C2, C1, C2, C1, C2, C1, C2 in that order. Do you understand what I mean? Exactly. You either put the diode between the input (Ixxx) and the switch with the black ring facing the switch, or between the switch and the common (Cx) with the black ring facing Cx. Ok. No problem :) What you call row, I call column :) More about that in a minute.. If you put the diode between I and the switch, the black ring must face the switch. You could also put the diode between the switch and C, the black ring must then point away from the switch :) Actually you are mistaken :) If you use only the 16 first inputs on the whole board, that is I1 through I16 on the first virtual joystick, you don't need diodes. Actually that is not the whole truth either. If you really are interested in the details, the whole truth is that if you use only one switch in each row*, you don't need diodes. And there are 16 input rows. By knowing this you could test every input on the whole board with just a wire, like I do before shipping. * A row in this context is horizontal with the USB-connector pointing downwards. The first row is I16, I32, I48, I64 etc while the second row is I15, I31, I47, I63 etc. I don't think anyone purchases this board to use only 16 inputs however, so for any real setups you will always need diodes and won't need to bother yourself with understanding this :) The only case where it can be good to know that you can do without diodes is if you would like to make a quick test with only one or a few switches. Or just check that the board is functional. I don't :)

Hello Tom! Image 3 in the manual shows how to correctly connect the diodes. The black ring on the physical diode is the tip of the arrow in the symbol. Common can be bridged from one switch to the next as you say. If it is the same common of course. You can never connect two commons to each other. You are welcome to add me on MSN if you want real-time support. farbror_brydling@hotmail.com . Edit: And by the way.. No playing during Earth Hour! ;)