wheelhaus

well nothing I do seems to make a difference for the missile in flight sound. (launch a vikhr, hit F6 and it's silent). I can hear the doppler effect from the KA-50 and the launch sound fading away quickly, but that's it. I've tried adding gain = 4.0 in MissileEngine.sdef but i get nothing. Where else should I look, or is this sound simply missing?

just did a search for "autoexec" and found a similar thread regarding cockpit sounds, somehow it was missed by my previous searches. I created the autoexec.cfg file with the following: sound.cockpit_world_volume = 4.5 sound.cockpit_world_lowpass = 5000 (still tweaking with this value) seems to be working great. and I am also adjusting some of the *.sdef files in the sounds folder. Thanks Nate!

I've been really enjoying the new BS2, however I'd like to boost the sounds from things heard inside the cockpit such as bullets impacts and missile launches. I know its not 100% realistic due to rotor and engine sound masking and pilot headset, etc, but it'll make the experience more enjoyable for me. I've found a few old threads (pre BS2) pointing to autoexec.cfg and sound.cfg, but I cannot find these files ANYWHERE. I assume this is due to the new sound engine. All I want to do is boost their sound levels and/or adjust the attenuation frequency. Any tips? Also, I hope this is related, after launching a Vikhr, I sometimes press F6 to watch the missile in flight. Right now I hear nothing, even while the rocket's engine is still hot. I expect it to go silent after the engine cuts out, but not before, especially with the chase camera positioned within a few meters. edit- i have also read the DCS sound FAQ, no apples.

It really does take some adjustments to get it to feel right. Even still it has it's quirks. I prefer a one:one style profile, and then adjust the actual ratio and limits until it feels good. I don't like the profiles that have a zero ratio near center, feels too disjointed. Seeing the side panels is the most difficult, with my setup the reflectors end up going outside the camera range and it gets jumpy. Still tweaking.

That info should be on the product page for TIR5. But, I know it's biggest improvement over TIR4 is that it's smoother and more accurate. I agree with everyone else, 100% worth it. I can't fly a sim without it now.

my interest is peaked, hearing about the new firmware. I'd also like to hear from more users pre and post firmware...

I have tried using arrow keys for fine adjustment to cyclic trim, and they have the same effect as above with one caveat. Using the Ctrl-Enter trim graph as a visual aid... If the trimmed stick position is within about 50% of center the arrow keys will only adjust the trimmed position slightly. If the stick trim position is outside 50% of center such as in fast forward flight, tapping an arrow key will drop the trimmed point to maximum of 50%. It still doesn't jump to center like the rudder axis, but it won't hold a position outside 50%. Strange. Kinda irritating, using a quick tap of the arrow keys can help keep long boring point to point flights trimmed correctly.

by tapping Z (or X) it momentarily changes the input to the keyboard, which will recenter when the key is released. I don't know why, but it removes the trim setting. The rudder pedals still work, but as they're analog, they will only recenter to the trimmed position like the stick.

here ya go. You may need to tweak it, I am constantly, just a bit here and there. Don't know if I'll ever be 100% satisfied... But that's just me. I realized after looking at the profile that not everything is as linear as I thought it was. Roll and X both have desensitized center, and Z has some nutty curves, but they feel right to me and how I play. I remember now I've changed these because of how I tend shift around in my chair, I gave myself a little bit of a deadzone or modified the output to the axes I am more sensitive to and/or sloppy with. Pitch and Yaw are the two most obvious axes for immersion, so they are linear. Y is next most obvious to peek over the nose for targeting, etc, so I left it linear as well. X is nice for leaning over to look down out the windows, but if I was off center just a bit the HUD reflection would be unusable... Anyways, give it a shot and see what ya think. Rename "txt" to "xml" and drop it into your profiles folder. If you want to rename it, you will need to either edit the XML file "name" line, or copy each axis as a template and load them into a new profile. DCS Black Shark.txt

Hm, I didn't notice any adverse side effects. What exactly should I look for? I don't want to go off topic but the one graphic phenomena I'd love to "fix" but haven't found a solution for yet, is the vertical lines that appear on distant landscape while on the ground or at low altitudes. I can't remember if this is in BS, FC2, or both... Methinks both.

there is a fix, I verified it by doing it myself. You have to edit a clipping distance or something in a .lua file. Very simple. Do a search and you may find it. Let me know if you can't find it and I'll try to recount what file and line to edit. edit: I also fixed the exact same issue in FC2 since it uses the same engine as BS, but the files are located in different folders, IIRC...

Not a problem, I can do that when I get home later tonight so long as I don't forget... :thumbup:

I never could get used to the progressive sensitivity of the default settings, it felt too numb/locked near center of the X or Y axis for flight sims. The 1:1 felt better in some ways, but it still felt too artificial/forced. On all accounts, (IIRC) I keep the global settings speed at 1, and smoothing around 8. This results in quick, nearly instant response that doesn't judder. For all my flight sims, (DCS:BS, LOMAC:FC & FC2, and FSX) I set the Pitch/Yaw/Roll sensitivity to a flat line, the last 25-30% tapering to 0 near 45°. The X/Y/X are also linear, but much less sensitive to avoid popping my POV outside the aircraft or clipping through polygons. I set them until I could move around a comfortable "bubble" and beyond that the view wouldn't move. It kinda feels like the helmet is pressed against the glass and I just can't move anymore. The Pitch sensitivity I had to adjust asymmetrically to taper to 0 sooner when looking down. The TIR engine/sensor doesn't like looking down too much, the view flips out and has a seizure... The Z sensitivity is also asymmetrical to prevent zooming out/backwards too far. Having a cockpit view that reacts to my head position consistently makes everything feel much more natural, like you're actually inside the helo. Once I made a good profile as a baseline, I copied the same settings to another profile, renamed it, and tweaked the sensitivity specifically for the next title until I had a profile for each sim that feels perfect. Driving sims are another story, it helps to keep your view locked to center unless you intentionally look away, X/Y/Z movement doesn't work as well because you're typically strapped into a 5pt harness and can't move. I disable everything except a small amount of Pitch, a small amount of Roll, and use mostly Yaw for checking the flanks/mirrors. In this case, I have the center ranges at 0 sensitivity, and about 10° i ramp up the sensitivity a little bit to get some movement. When flying, however, it feels far more natural to have the camera react to my view consistently across the entire range of view as it gives the sensation that I can move freely about the cockpit..

woah...

More knowledgable persons can chime in, but this is what I understand of the real machine... The stick doesn't spring to center, A normal heli allows you to hold the stick in a position to maintain steady flight. This will be different for each flight, pending wind direction and speed, flying weight, airspeed, etc, but you feel THe forces on the stick and pedals, just like the steering wheel in a car. Your actions are based on what you "feel." You can only react to what you see on screen. A force feedback joystick CAN mimic the real thing because the servo motors can put the stick anywhere the software tells it to. It can mimic the different forces, resistance, and vibrations you'd feel in the real thing (I haven't used one yet, but I have used other FFB devices like Logitech's G25 for racing sims (and the jump in realism and control is amazing). FFB a big advantage, but not required to have fun with the sim. The new Logitech G940 will likely be the top retail FFB joystick once its released later this month. With a standard sprung stick, you don't NEED to use the trim, you can simply hold the stick in the desired position but you will be fighting the spring, and that gets annoying. To compensate, ED added the trim feature... The trim basically emulates the desired stick position and allows you to return the stick to center without affecting the heli's current attitude. Any movement thereafter is treated as if the stick were still in the trimmed position. This is why the "trim reset" button is so important, it will return the virtual stick and rudder positions to your joystick's ACTUAL position. I rarely use it, only as a safeguard if my trims get all jackified. Hit Ctrl-Enter and you will see the virtual representation of the major controls, engine throttle, collective, rudder, and stick position. It will help all this trim stuff to make sense. The diamond is the virtual stick position, so you can see what is happening when you click and release trim, stack multiple trims, or don't center the rudder. I can't fly without it. edit- The trim button interrupts the autopilot, which by itself has only about 20% authority over the total inputs. When you reset the AP (activate and release trim) the AP will recenter its authority around the new stick position, so it can maintain the flight attitude of the heli when the button was released.

Whoops, double post...

Bingo! Get the trim to a neutral state for your desired flying/attack speed, and then just maneuver as you fly with one of the methods below to interrupt the AP. No need to re-trim unless your flight speed changes or you use constant Flight Director (FD) mode. Here's my thoughts after experimenting and filtering through hundreds of pages of trim discussions: By "maneuvers" I mean NOE flying, rocket/cannon strafing, or evasive tactics where you're flying every direction BUT straight. This is when the AP gets annoying because its trying to take control away from you. I am flying with a non-FFB stick. When maneuvering in combat I use two methods for smooth control... 1: Hold the trim button while maneuvering. This disables the AP temporarily. I also recommend it for any normal flight. If you hold the trim button down while changing directions, it prevents the AP from fighting your inputs. When you release it, the AP will be refocused on your new trim setting/heading. (This works MUCH better than maneuvering first, and then clicking the trim button on/off instantly to set it. Though this does work, it typically results in jerky flight). So, first, click and hold the button while you move. When you're done with the maneuver (still holding the trim button), return the stick/pedals to neutral and THEN release the button. As long as you return to neutral prior to releasing the button, your trim won't change from the previous setting. Instead, you were temporarily given direct control over the heli while you held down the button. I have the trim button mapped to my throttle stick so I can more easily hold it down and keep a light grip on the stick while maneuvering. :joystick: or... 2: Map the FD button to a button on your stick/HOTAS. Simply enable/disable it as needed to "suspend" the AP. The heli will be more lively and YOU will have to fly it 100%, but the AP can't fight you. The FD will disable AP and instead will only dampen your inputs for smoother flight. Many here seem to fly only with FD because it feels more direct and natural, but for stand-off combat it requires too much focus, AP and hover hold is the ticket... Anyways, since FD disables AP, use it similarly as #1 above, and you will have smooth control during maneuvers without affecting your trim setting for a given flight speed. (Note: I cannot remember at the moment when FD is switched off, if it resets the AP to follow your new heading if AP has been on the whole time)... If you're hovering or simply flying a route, definitely use AP and trim as necessary to maintain solid hover or smooth flight. you can also try... 3: I will also occasionally switch only AP heading on and off, it creates a similar effect by preventing the heli from auto-steering so I can tell it where to go, turn it back on when I want to stay in a straight line. If anything here is incorrect, please let me know!

I prefer the new system. I'd really like to try a FFB stick.