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How-To: The PVC Drain Pipe Warthog Stand


Supersheep
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The PVC Drain Pipe Warthog Stand

See images below

 

 

I've received a number of inquiries about my stand for the Thrustmaster Warthog, and instead of pointing you to my old, relatively small post about it, I decided to finally make a proper post with more detail in it. The idea isn't from me, I found it posted by another ED member who uploaded an image of his that I cannot find anymore (if you have a link to that post, I'm happy to include it here). The Stand is cheap, quick to build, does not require unusual tools and is quick and easy to disassemble if needed. Additionally, it has a clean and uniquely industrial look to it :) Although it’s not hard build, I want to share some experiences that make your build process even easier.

 

The Stand itself consists of four parts:

  • PVC Drain Tube
  • Two Blind Caps
  • A double female joint connector
  • Twelve screws (IIRC I used M4 10 mm??)
  • A couple of washers

 

The diameter of the pipes is not really important. I used 120 mm, which nicely fits the joystick base, but if you’re off by a bit that doesn’t matter. What counts is that the flat tops of the blind caps have at least the same diameter as the joystick base. Choose these first and then the tubing diameter accordingly.

 

Tools you’ll need:

  • Saw
  • Screwdriver
  • Hammer (see below)
  • Paper
  • Pencil
  • Ruler

 

The construction

Detach the base plate from the joystick base, the Piping will be put between them and the base makes for a niche stable (see below) stand.

As you’ve likely figured out by now, the blind caps are going to be screwed to the base plate and the joystick base. Tip to help you achieve a clean alignment of all parts: Get a sheet of paper, put it onto the base plate, and use a pencil to trace the screw holes onto it. Be careful not to move the paper while doing so. When you’re done, you’ll clearly see the position of the holes on the paper, and you can use a ruler to diagonally connect the holes (see figure 1, red circle). Punch a small hole where the lines intersect so that you can barely put the tip of the pen though it and peek through.

 

Hopefully, your blind caps have been injection molded and have a little détente or molding remnant in the center of the big flat surface (if not, use the ruler to figure out where the center is and mark it). This enables you to use the détente and the hole in your stencil to line up the stencil right in the center of the blind cap. Fixate if there, mark the position of the holes (bang a nail there, for example), remove the stencil (don’t destroy it, you need to drill both blind caps this way), drill the holes, and repeat with the other blind cap. You’ll end up with eight beautiful and almost perfectly aligned holes.

 

Now screw the blind caps to the base plate and the joystick base (using washers if your material if in doubt), put the double female connector onto the base plate, and figure out the correct length for the PVC pipe. (Pro tip: Better have a safety margin of 20 cm and cut it three times than to go all out and have to run to the store again…), Cut It accordingly, insert it into the connector and put the joystick base onto it. That’s basically it. Test for play, slack and bending by gently pushing the joystick base. Mine had some play between the bottom blind cap and the connector, so I added four screws (see images). If you need to detach the pipes again in the process, this is easier if you apply torque instead of only trying to pull them out.

 

 

 

Now, the extras:

 

 

Ballast

My stand would tip over if I moved the joystick. To solve this, I ballasted the Stand with 15 kilograms (55 lbs) of lead I bought for <20 Euros (30 dollars) from a local scrap metal yard. You can of course check the spot prices for lead on the CME or LSE, but expect to pay between 10 and 50% premium (depending on the policy of your scrap yard. (Pro tip: Don’t ask for “50 lead”. They’ll wonder when the truck comes…).

 

Before I continue: Beware, that stuff is toxic. Use appropriate safety gear and a lot of common sense.

 

With that out of the way, my lead was in tile form (the ones used to seal roofs) and since they didn’t fit into the PVC piping, I used a hammer to bang them into compact chunks that I dumped in the piping. Before I did so, I put some leafs of old newspaper down into the pipe and also wrapped the lead into newspaper so there isn’t any dust falling out of the stick every time I move it – that doesn’t look nice and is toxic, too.

 

Lifting:

Every time I want to fly, I move my stand from next to my desk to in front of my chair. If you do the same, remember to either add screws to the top blind cap, too, to secure it, or push it back in every now and then. That thing can and will come loose, and your feet are not going to be amused by that. Besides, mind your back when hastily picking up the stand.

Keep in mind, that the base plate has rubber feet attached to it. If you drag the stand over the ground, these will shear off. If that happens, use double-sided duct tape to reattach them – they’re handy to have.

 

The construction:

The assembly is solid and has no play in it. The PVC pipe bends a little, but it doesn’t bounce like a spring so I don’t mind. If yours does so excessively, you could possibly use construction foam to stiffen it, but that ruins the easy disassembly. You’ll immediately notice if your floor is level. If it is not, you can counter any tipping with a bit of paper glued under the base plate.

 

One thing to add might be a grip, attached to the big piece of tubing to make moving the stand easier. I haven’t done so yet, but might consider this (or not, as I've been using mine for more than a year already and like it ;P)

 

Another idea is a small bar that you can wrap the cable of the joystick around when it’s not in use.

 

 

If you need images from different angles, a clearer description of some steps, or have other comments, I'm looking forward to your feedback!

 

 

Supersheep

 

 

 

 

 

When I've time again, I might take images that are not as crappy as these...

 

 

Image one:

 

img_one.jpg

 

 

Images of the stand

 

 

IMG_5513.jpg

 

IMG_5514.jpg

 

IMG_5515.jpg

 

IMG_5516.jpg

 

IMG_5518.jpg

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Cheers SS.

 

Thanks for that. Will give it a go tonight. :)

Windows 7 64 Home Premium, i5 3570K (3.4 @ 4.4GHz), Asus P8Z77-V LX, 16GB dual channel 1600 ram, EVGA Nvidia GTX980ti, 240 GB OCZ SSD, 3 TB Raptor, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas and Throttle, Saitek Pro Combat Rudder pedals.

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Oh, I forgot two things: Total cost excluding the lead is sub-20 Euro, too.

Time required is (again excluding lead) about one hour depending on how cleanly you work and how thoroughly you clean up the plastic chips from the cutting...

 

Addendum 1912z:

 

I put the top part in at an angle. That doesn't exactly constitute an offset-mounted stick (as the stick still is aligned with the X/Y axes), but makes handling much better nontheless.

 

And, once I get an extension for the Warthog, I'll simply cut down the long PVC pipe and am ready to go again :)


Edited by Supersheep
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Hello Supersheep,

 

It's a very good idea the PVC, me too I've used the PVC for my HOTAS but it's more short like you:

 

12766715754_416d9106d0_b.jpg

 

12766411603_972720493f_b.jpg

 

12766277705_7806413292_b.jpg

 

12766281365_12d8ea8874_b.jpg

 

Bye, Skull.

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Nice, you managed to do with only three pieces of piping. The assembly looks very clean and rock-solid. Did you fill it with anything to increase stiffness even more?

I like the center mount on the chair. If you eventually decide to get an extension you can even to without the stand altogether :)

 

Thanks for posting the images!

Supersheep

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Supersheep,

 

Oops, I very sorry for the delay of my answer... I'm very stupid...

In fact I've do not filled my assembly because he's very short and not also long that your pipe.

The size of my total assembly is: 12 cm or 4.7244 inch, after all my pipe is mounted on one metal plate as you can watch on my photos.

 

Bye, Skull.

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