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Posted

I love flying in DCS and do this a lot with my HOTAS setup at home. While travelling I have my laptop but I never fly since I cant bring the HOTAS with me. So what to do? Well I sacked an old unused RC controls and build my own mini HOTAS which is the perfect size for traveling. Not too small buta lso not to big. It is powered with a Leobodnar BU0836 12-bit Joystick controller and connects with USB to computer, no extra drivers necessary. :)

 

So I gutted an old RC transmitter and combined its gimbals with trim pots, some switches and toggles. Everything is connected to a Leobodnar BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller and matrix board. Very easy to use and install. The CC between mounting holes is 40mm hence the name Mini HOTAS 40.

 

Parts needed:

1pcs 3d printed box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2564784

1pcs 3d printed lid: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2564784

2pcs 3d printed supports: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2564784

2pcs gimbals CC40mm

8pcs 7mm momentary push switches

4pcs 3-way flip switches

6pcs 10x2mm rare earth magnets

6pcs M3 screws

6pcs M3 knurl nuts

1pcs USB-cable (A-connector and open ended), length depending on your need. For use with laptop I have only 60cm.

1pcs Rubber grommet suitable for USB cable

1pcs zip tie

1pcs BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=219

1pcs BU0836A Break out Matrix board: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=274

 

Note: I've also designed a larger version for CC45mm gimbals: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2569465

 

Step 1. Print the box.

 

Step 2. Mount the knurl nuts in place using a solder iron. Make it hot and let it melt into the correct position.

 

Step 3 (optional). If you want to make the box nice spend some time to sand and plaster it smooth before applying paint.

 

Step 4. Glue magnets to box and supports. I use CA-glue with accelerator

 

Step 5. Insert a USB cable through the center hole of the box and solder to the BU0836. I use a rubber grommet to reduce dirt coming into the box.

 

Step 6. Solder USB cable to BU0836.

 

Step 7. Solder the BU0836 cards.

 

Step 8. Attach controls; joystick gimbal, switches and pots to the lid.

 

Step 9. Solder cables to the controls, twist them to reduce interference and make sure they are longer then you need.

 

Step 10. Trim cables with some extra cm to spare if the BU0836 is on the center bottom of the box.

 

Step 11. Solder controls to the BU0836 cards.

 

Step 12. Position BU0826 card in the bottom center of the box and pull on the USB cable so you have a few cm spare cm inside the box and attach the zip tie between the BU0826 and rubber grommet where it'll work as a strain relief.

 

Step 13. Hot glue the BU0836 cards (two dabs on either side so it is easy to detach if necessary).

 

Step 14. Use M3 screws and attach lid to box.

 

Step 15. Setup as a standrad joystick inthe simulator of your choice! :)

 

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Posted

Very nice this is a great idea something like a normal controller but with more buttons and a better layout, You had better patent it quick..

AMD A8-5600K @ 4GHz, Radeon 7970 6Gig, 16 Gig Ram, Win 10 , 250 gig SSD, 40" Screen + 22 inch below, Track Ir, TMWH, Saitek combat pedals & a loose nut behind the stick :thumbup:

Posted

nice...despite the long stares from TSA :)

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

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i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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