CH Pro Pedals Magnetoresistive Sensor Mod

[Mortisrose]

This mod changes out the old 8-bit controller and replaces it with an Arduino Pro-Micro w/MMjoy2 firmware and replaces the rudder potentiometer for a TLE5010 magnetoresistive sensor. The foot brake pots now have 10-bit res. and the rudder is set to 12-bit resolution.

 

I had an extra TLE5010 already attached to an adapter from my throttle project and a partially completed circuit board and incorporated both into the project.

 

After disassembly of the pedals the rudder pot was removed and a screw with washer was screwed tightly into the opening of the rudder linkage lever that housed the pot shaft. A small diametric Neodymium magnet was placed over the screw head and two pieces of heat shrink tubing was placed over the top of the screw and magnet to reduce the play within the rudder pot mount. The TLE5010 sensor adapter pins were then bent 90 degrees to the sides to lower profile, wires connected to adapter and two layers of mounting tape attached to the underside of the headers. The adapter/sensor was then attached to the top of potentiometer housing directly over the opening and then the housing placed over lever.

 

Works good so far, thought I've noticed some drift with the min. center and max values, also I was unable to get auto calibration to work correctly and had to use manual calibrated settings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Sokol1_br]

Works good so far, thought I've noticed some drift with the min. center and max values,]

 

Nice job. You need place an bearing (conical needle type is better) in magnet axis, because sensor pick any axial play there.

 

Here with Honeywell SS495A1 Hall sensor was used an (ball) bearing removed from old HDD: https://i.postimg.cc/13jRxFFH/CH-PRO-Pedal-HALL-sensor.jpg

 

An similar "mod': http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4476385/ch-pro-pedal-tle-5010-rudder-axis#Post4476385

Edited July 9, 2019 by Sokol1_br

[Mortisrose]

Thanks. I never could get those hall sensors to work, the TLE5010 work the first time I plugged it in.

 

So far no misalignment after kicking rudder around for half an hour flying the P-51, maybe the setup needed some settling time. If it does continue to drift I'll try heating the inner layer of heat shrink to tighten around the magnet or maybe a bit of hot glue to the magnet as there is potential for movement in the space between the magnet and heat shrink. The force between the screw and magnet was so strong I kept it as it was just sitting on top. Goal in this project is to keep it simple with minimal destructive methods of modification.

 

Picture below of the lever/magnet setup. The lock washer just underneath the shrink wrap is visible, this helps reduce play and the heat shrink is placed tightly over the top of screw head and snugly placed in the pot shaft opening further reducing play. There's also some magnetic force holding up the lever up from the base between the magnet and the wires/header pins on top.

 

[Mortisrose]

Added labels to wires. Pedal mod still works good after 2 years.