sharkfin61 Posted January 20, 2021 Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) Watching RomeoKilo's video about his ARC-210 panel implementation yesterday, I wondered how the mainboard stand-offs where put in place and fixed to the panel layer. Is it necessary to drill a hole and tap a thread into it or will glueing (CA or Epoxy) them into the hole be enough when you screw the pcb's or next layers onto it? As I have to work with pre-fabricated panels from pcflights . com , I only have one try. Thanks for your inputs. Edited January 21, 2021 by sharkfin61 typo Loads do it on the fly! Royal Bavarian Airforce all the way RIG: RYZEN 7 5800X3D~ ZOTAC 4080 Super ~ AORUS X570S Elite AX ~64 GB Corsair Venegance DDR-4 3600 ~ BeQuiet AIO Silent loop 2 360 watercooled ~ Samsung 890 Pro M.2 (2TB) + 870 EVO (1TB) SSD ~ WIN 10 64-bit ~ AOC 31.5" Gaming 144Hz Display ~ DelanClip@TrackIR 5 ~ TM Warthog no.2 ~Saitek rudder pedals~ 2 TM MFDs on 2nd 27"display ~ Buddyfox A-10 UFC ~ CDU/AAP panel via DCSBios ~ ARC-210 (soldering WIP) ~ QUEST 3
agrasyuk Posted January 20, 2021 Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) don't glue anything, it has to be removable. Drill and either use a nut or tap a thread. the 2.5mm acrylic sheet can reliably hold a bolt. I usually do M3 unless specific task requires smaller. or you can use pins and headers to sandwich a device together , it holds reliably if you place them strategically. below is a sandwich of 3 boards not counting the PI Edited January 20, 2021 by agrasyuk Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
sharkfin61 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Posted January 21, 2021 Thanks for the answer. I made a first drill hole in 2,5mm Plexi (Acrylic). I screwed in the stand-off without taping a thread (M3 stand-off into a 2,4mm hole). Fitted tightly and sturdy. I didn't think it was so easy. Well, the learning curve in pitbuilding is still as steep as the A-10C II type related training. Loads do it on the fly! Royal Bavarian Airforce all the way RIG: RYZEN 7 5800X3D~ ZOTAC 4080 Super ~ AORUS X570S Elite AX ~64 GB Corsair Venegance DDR-4 3600 ~ BeQuiet AIO Silent loop 2 360 watercooled ~ Samsung 890 Pro M.2 (2TB) + 870 EVO (1TB) SSD ~ WIN 10 64-bit ~ AOC 31.5" Gaming 144Hz Display ~ DelanClip@TrackIR 5 ~ TM Warthog no.2 ~Saitek rudder pedals~ 2 TM MFDs on 2nd 27"display ~ Buddyfox A-10 UFC ~ CDU/AAP panel via DCSBios ~ ARC-210 (soldering WIP) ~ QUEST 3
agrasyuk Posted January 21, 2021 Posted January 21, 2021 if you didn't tap then the only way you could have got the screw part of that standoff in is by deforming the threads. Nylon has enough elasticity so it probably will hold but for how long? plus I don't think it's good idea to stress the acrylic. why not just tap the sheet ? Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
sharkfin61 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Posted January 21, 2021 The stand-off I used, was a brass stand-off. I think it cut it's own thread into the acrylic. I used the nylon stand-offs in my CDU project, I know about their weakness when it comes to threads. But thank you for the headsup.Oh, yes, the other problem was, I didn't have a taper for the M3 screw. Only m5, m6, that I bought for the woodwork. Gesendet von meinem SM-T820 mit Tapatalk Loads do it on the fly! Royal Bavarian Airforce all the way RIG: RYZEN 7 5800X3D~ ZOTAC 4080 Super ~ AORUS X570S Elite AX ~64 GB Corsair Venegance DDR-4 3600 ~ BeQuiet AIO Silent loop 2 360 watercooled ~ Samsung 890 Pro M.2 (2TB) + 870 EVO (1TB) SSD ~ WIN 10 64-bit ~ AOC 31.5" Gaming 144Hz Display ~ DelanClip@TrackIR 5 ~ TM Warthog no.2 ~Saitek rudder pedals~ 2 TM MFDs on 2nd 27"display ~ Buddyfox A-10 UFC ~ CDU/AAP panel via DCSBios ~ ARC-210 (soldering WIP) ~ QUEST 3
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