frallzor Posted November 28, 2011 Posted November 28, 2011 Any ETA on the other awesome DXFs? =) Aswell as, how many 4x8 sheets will cover the whole build?
y2kiah Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 Any ETA on the other awesome DXFs? =) Aswell as, how many 4x8 sheets will cover the whole build? I'm going to try to average one module per week, including the build tutorial. Obviously I'm a bit behind that schedule already because of the thanksgiving weekend but I'll catch up soon. Next section will be the left front, followed by right and right front. Then the pit floor, then finally the center section with instrument panel. After that will be the ACES 2 seat which I still have to design. I have a stand-in seat but I'm not really at liberty to redistribute it, so I will be designing one from scratch based on the best available information. I also plan to add another optional 2ft. at the front of the pit, which will allow for a full windscreen structure to be built. I already have the curves pretty well figured out and it makes a big difference in making it look like an A-10, so I'm considering it for my own pit... I mean who needs that 2ft of floor space anyway, right?. Only thing is, it would push the visuals farther out so it would probably be best for a projector setup and not a tv/monitor. Good question on the plywood, I'll figure it out and let you know.
frallzor Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Awesome, thanks for the answer. Quick Q, the dxf that is up, is it used for both left and right? Just that you mirror the parts when assembling?
y2kiah Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 No, the left and right sides are different. Some parts are mirror images of the left side, but many are not.
frallzor Posted November 30, 2011 Posted November 30, 2011 Good to know, so one doesnt make 2x left thinking itll be the same :P Guess Im ready to machine the first side then, just loaded the machine with a 4x8 sheet of mdf. Might kick it on later today, will be fun to see the results.
Gadroc Posted December 1, 2011 Posted December 1, 2011 The cut layout is meant for a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" MDF or plywood. I recommend using a 1/8"dia cutting bit. Most of the joinery cutouts are oversized by 1/32" on each edge to account for the radius of inside corners. Three pieces have a dado/pocket cut .5" deep. Drilling pilot holes is optional, but I recommend making them all 1/8"dia. plunge cuts. Joinery can be done with glue, drilling directly into the material, bolting through, metal corner brackets and tie plates, or a combination of those methods. I know a full 4x8 sheet is a bit bigger than most people are equipped to handle. You can try to change the layout for 4 x 2'x4' sheets, but because of lost space due to the smaller sheets, you will most likely need 5 of them. Wow. Cutting 3/4" material with an 1/8" bit is going to take some time that's about 6 passes. Have you cut this out yet? Are you planning MDF or Ply and what do you think each does to skinning later? Also for other it takes 6 2x4 sheets to fit it all, but you are not quite so packed meaning less little waste parts to secure.
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 1, 2011 Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) you are the best this is going to be a great build looking forward to this one, just what i've been looking for. Edited December 1, 2011 by HOP_TRIZZ re-reading thread
y2kiah Posted December 1, 2011 Author Posted December 1, 2011 Good point about the bit size. I prefer not to have to deal with tool changes in the middle of my runs, but drilling with 1/8 and cutting with larger is probably a good idea. If you up the bit size to 1/4", just be sure to check any profile cuts in the area of the inner sidewall of the ribs. There are slots intended for sliding a piece of hardboard covered in fabric. That's about the only area where I could see a bigger bit just plain not fitting, so the tool path may miss them completely. Also create a drill operation at each of the inner corners to prevent the larger radius from blocking your assembly. I'm planning to use plywood, it gives better options for skinning, like using wood screws directly into the ribs. In the case of MDF, I made drill holes so you can attach small pieces of alum. angle to help with skinning. I'm thinking about making the outer skin permanent, so I'll use a combination of screws and construction adhesive to bond the skin. Not that I'm a rivet counter or anything, but on the real aircraft there aren't a lot of rivets in the area being skinned for this pit, and they don't all follow a vertical path. So I may rely more on the adhesive and put screws mainly on the outer edges, and try to follow the real shapes as closely as possible. I think the most important part for the overall look will be separating the canopy sill into a separate piece. What do you guys think about using a foam filler between ribs to help shape the curves of the skin and make it easier to bend without creasing... necessary? Not necessary? 1
Gadroc Posted December 1, 2011 Posted December 1, 2011 I'll setup 1/8" drill in the corners and cut with a quarter inch bit. The pocket on the upper side is 1/4" wide so that shouldn't be a problem.
frallzor Posted December 1, 2011 Posted December 1, 2011 I had no problem doing it all with a 3mm tool (aprox 1/8") Didnt take too long. (caution, boring video!)
y2kiah Posted December 1, 2011 Author Posted December 1, 2011 very cool! FYI, the next file is posted in the original post
Gadroc Posted December 1, 2011 Posted December 1, 2011 Nice! Didn't take too long varies in meaning whether I'm running my own machine or renting one by the hour. ;) Doing 10 extra 1/8 drill operations and cutting the cutting time in half is well worth it for me at $25 an hour.
y2kiah Posted December 1, 2011 Author Posted December 1, 2011 $25 an hour. Man I've been paying $1/minute on the laser, am I getting hosed? Laser vs. router I know, but still...
Gadroc Posted December 1, 2011 Posted December 1, 2011 Yea I have lucked out with the local collective workshop. The laser 60W Epilog Mini 18 at my workshop is $35 an hour. The laser has more expensive consumables (honeycomb table vs MDF cutting beds, laser tube probably costs more than a router, etc...) than CNC router table. Basically the amount of experimenting needed on the panels to get them lit correctly and fit electronics is why I bought my own. Cheap K40 Laser $700 DSP Controller Board $485 2x Stepper Drivers $45 x 2 = $90 Egg Crate Cutting Bed $30 Air Compressor $80 Exhaust Fan $130 $1515 = 43 hours at $35 an hour Cutting Panels at home = Priceless If I where a little more patient with buggy software I could pull the DSP and Stepper drivers out... but I'm not.
pitbldr Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 Man I've been paying $1/minute on the laser, am I getting hosed? Laser vs. router I know, but still... That's a good rate... I charge $1.30 per minute for jobs that can be billed by the minute.
y2kiah Posted December 2, 2011 Author Posted December 2, 2011 Yeah it seems like over time when you do the math, BYOL is the only way to go (buy your own laser, not to be confused with bring your own liquor, although I support both). I've spent > $600 using the laser alone and not even completely satisfied with my panels yet because I get mixed results with back lighting. Wish I had put that towards exactly what you bought, I'd be halfway to paying it back already, what with the sunk cost, and I'd have the tool to show for it.
y2kiah Posted December 2, 2011 Author Posted December 2, 2011 That's a good rate... I charge $1.30 per minute for jobs that can be billed by the minute. cool good to know, thx. I'd like to achieve engraving results as good as yours some day :helpsmilie:
JerseyRyan Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 I've spent > $600 using the laser alone and not even completely satisfied with my panels yet because I get mixed results with back lighting. What's your favourite backlight solution so far?
avlolga Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 Yea I have lucked out with the local collective workshop. The laser 60W Epilog Mini 18 at my workshop is $35 an hour. The laser has more expensive consumables (honeycomb table vs MDF cutting beds, laser tube probably costs more than a router, etc...) than CNC router table. Basically the amount of experimenting needed on the panels to get them lit correctly and fit electronics is why I bought my own. Cheap K40 Laser $700 DSP Controller Board $485 2x Stepper Drivers $45 x 2 = $90 Egg Crate Cutting Bed $30 Air Compressor $80 Exhaust Fan $130 $1515 = 43 hours at $35 an hour Cutting Panels at home = Priceless If I where a little more patient with buggy software I could pull the DSP and Stepper drivers out... but I'm not. I am looking for "Exhaust Fan" / Vacuum cleaner for my CNC. can you upload some Pic of your Fan? Thanks
Gadroc Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 I am looking for "Exhaust Fan" / Vacuum cleaner for my CNC. can you upload some Pic of your Fan? Thanks I use a 13 gallon dust collector from harbor freight. I just didn't use the dust collection back and routed it out of the house with semi rigid HVAC pipe. 1
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 4, 2011 Posted December 4, 2011 No, the left and right sides are different. Some parts are mirror images of the left side, but many are not. man i was going to have doubles cut,hahaha! :doh: please finish the right side so i can have them cut....:thumbup:
Gadroc Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Anyone cut this out yet and try it? I'm looking in more detail and it looks like the notch joints will have a lot of play in them, especially since the plywood I was going to get is actually .7 not .75 inches.
y2kiah Posted December 8, 2011 Author Posted December 8, 2011 Anyone cut this out yet and try it? I'm looking in more detail and it looks like the notch joints will have a lot of play in them, especially since the plywood I was going to get is actually .7 not .75 inches. MDF is a true .75 but I'm not planning on using that either. Is all 3/4 plywood actually .7 then? There is 1/16" of total clearance in each notch. I'm fine with removing the clearance, I didn't want it there in the first place, but I was advised that it should be there. I'll post updates later today.
Recommended Posts