Ragtop's A-10C Build

[-Ice]

Hmmm... Wickes... not sure if there's one close by. B&Q though, I've been to. The toggle switches, how are they size-wise compared to the Warthog switches? And is that £3 PER SWITCH? Are they ON-ON switches or ON-OFF-ON swtiches??

[Ragtop]

They're identical to the TM:WH switches. Unfortunately, you're correct, per switch, I was shocked aswell, but, you do pay for the quality, these things are TOUGH. They also have spade connectors which means wiring is a cakewalk.

 

I'm using the ON-OFF, single pole single throw, and one ON-OFF-ON for the Inverter STBY/OFF/TEST switch. Ideally this switch should be an ON-OFF-(ON) *(ON) meaning momentary, it releases back to off when you let go* But they do not sell that particular switch in that configuration, which to be honest isn't a huge deal. It just means you need to push it back out of test mode.

 

ON-OFF is better for me as it requires half as many connections on the Leo Bodnar BU0836X board. The downside to this is you need to use Helios to assign the switches, as the switch does not send a release signal. However Helios can see the switch as ON or OFF, and assign different functions to this accordingly. To be honest everyone should be using Helios anyway!

[-Ice]

Hmmm... I see the switches have the £2.99 version and the £3.49 version, which one did you get? I'm thinking might as well get a DPDT switch since it's the same cost as a SPDT anyway, unless someone thinks otherwise? And can you link me to the ON-OFF-ON switch you're using?

 

Also, what is a spade connector?

 

Finally, does Wickes do cuts for you like B&Q? I've just Google-Mapped one that's almost right across from my local B&Q.

 

EDIT: How did you actually cut out the rib sections?

Edited October 5, 2011 by -Ice

[Ragtop]

Take a look at the specification tab on the switch link, it shows you which each model is.

 

I'm using the SPST (£2.99), and the SPDT-B (£3.49). You could use DP if you wanted to attach other circuits to it in the future, for instance you could use one on the EMER FLOOD switch, to turn on real LED's in your pit, aswell as sending the signal to the sim for the in game floods.

 

These are spade connectors, they crimp onto the wire and slide on to the switch terminals, meaning you do not need to solder anything. Wickes do cut, however I did it all myself at home. I'm not sure what their cutting service is like however (How accurate they are, how much they charge etc.)

[-Ice]

Thanks for the help! Just want to make 3x sure about the switches before buying. Still looking for a ON-OFF-ON switch for the Master Arm switch.

 

Planning to go to Wickes/B&Q tomorrow to sort out some building materials for this pit. Having trouble finding the 22x38mm "tassau" pieces though. Did you have to use the 25x38mm kiln-dried timber? Or did you just use the 19x32mm ones for "tassau"?

 

Any plans on making a center console?

 

Curious as to how you got that MDF board to your home as well... surely it doesn't fit in the car?

[Ragtop]

Yep, an SPDT-B would be perfect for that, just like for the inverter switch. Just a bit of configuring in Helios to do for it. When you tackle that drop me a line and I can guide you through the steps.

 

For me Tassau was the 19x32mm Kiln Dried Softwood. Wickes sell it in packs of 8 for £5 odd, which will be enough for the whole thing. If you decide to build the Dzus rails for the panels the same way I did you may need one or two more beams.

 

I just strapped the MDF to the roof of my car, two straps crossways and one lengthways did the job perfectly. It's only a little Audi A3 aswell!

 

I will be tackling the centre console soon, but I'll probably be building mine custom, the replica is a little too in depth for me at the moment, as I'm not planning on having all the parts that are mounted on it. My plan is to have a front panel which has the Gear panel, the AHCP, MFD's and a select few other parts. Eventually a UFC would be cool too!

Edited October 5, 2011 by Ragtop

[-Ice]

Lol about the straps. Good thing your Audi didn't fly! I'll be getting a taxi for this so I need to have the planks cut at least a few times.

 

Thanks for letting me pick your brains, btw. My first plan was to make just a plain 'pit but would probably save money in the long run if I do it right the first time.

 

Not too sure about the Dzus rails yet to be honest. All I need right now is a place for the WH throttle... the switch panel I'm keen on building is the AHCP... and maybe the countermeasures panel. The panels will be built as I go along and find the budget for it. Would love to make a CDU or UFC with these little buttons but that ain't gonna be cheap!

[Ragtop]

Haha, both my girlfriend and I were both a little bit concerned about that! Ah I see, well they should be able to get it all cut down to the right sizes for you. Spend some time checking over my picture to figure out how to best cut the panels first, to save yourself some problems when you're there!

 

I'd recommend you build the Electrical and Fuel panels, as you can get the engines started without using the mouse this way!

[-Ice]

Just double-checking --- your plans for one 2440x607mm sheet is enough for just one side console, yes? So I'd need two sheets to build both consoles... Just want to minimize trips to Wickes if possible.

 

Not too bothered about the electrical and fuel panels as I only use them on startup, it's those that you tend to fiddle with while you're in the air that I want to build, like the UFC and CDU!!

[Ragtop]

Fair point!

 

Nope, that's enough for both consoles!

You'll want a few sheets of 6mm, I'm not sure how much exactly as I had some laying around, I think I've used 3 so far, but I also haven't made the outer cover for the left console, because it is against the wall.

Edited October 5, 2011 by Ragtop

[-Ice]

Sorry, how can it be enough for TWO consoles? Waitaminute.... yes, I realize what you're saying! Might be a bit short for the incliner bits, but I'm sure I can salvage some from the sheet for the front dash.

 

I'm now in the process of laying out the panels for the front dash.... seems like one 2440x607 sheet won't fit though.

 

I'm curious, how did you get to cut the panels to shape? I see a lot of complex angles here, 85 degrees, 73 degrees, etc...

[Strix]

I don't know if this is useful, but here is a site with a lot of electronics.

http://uk.mouser.com/

And how the hell do you use helios to assign switches to it. I am so lost with it.

The manual is not helping me...

[Ragtop]

Haha, as long as you get all of those rough shapes cut out there's enough there for it all! the 400x164mm parts will cut perfectly into 2 risers, so one of them for each console.

 

As far as cutting the sections, I drew it all out on the cut shapes, using a protractor to get all the angles right and so on, a couple were a little off for me so a bit of tweaking here and there to get it all right.

 

Once I had done that I drilled into the inside angles, giving me a place to put the jigsaw, then used the jigsaw to actually make the cuts. Just go slowly, and it'll all be ok. Remember, you can measure as many times as you like, but you can only cut once.

 

Strix I'll write a guide for assigning switches in Helios, it looks like a few guys could benefit from this!

[Strix]

Great Ragtop!

I could use 1.....:helpsmilie:

[-Ice]

I just realized one thing -- I don't have a workbench to do all my cutting. I'm going to get the store to cut the general shape for me, but that still leaves a lot of angles to cut out for myself. Easy enough to get a jigsaw (any blade recommendations?), but no actual workbench!

 

Seems like I'll need two 2440x607 sheets for the front panel... three sheets in total, with a bit of extra for my seat base.

 

Any other tools required for this project? Protractor, ruler, jigsaw, drill...

[Ragtop]

I'd DEFINITELY recommend you buy yourself a workmate bench, you can get pretty cheap ones from most places, but something you can clamp onto is a must - hence, 3-4 good G-Clamps are VITAL. Without those two things I'd never have gotten to where I am so far, that is no exaggeration.

[Ragtop]

How to assign toggle switches to DCS-A-10 using Helios

 

Here you go guys! I'm going to try to make a screencast on doing this for you aswell.

[-Ice]

Dammit, this is quickly getting out of "wife-friendly" territory.

 

I see work bench going for £20, does that look good? And clamps for £5...

[Ragtop]

They look perfect.

 

Video tutorial on the thread I just made is uploading now :)

[Ragtop]

Well, things haven't slowed down around here, that's for sure!

 

Got to work on the front panel today, aswell as fixing the top plates onto the switch plates of the console panels. I also built the main shape for the AHCP.

 

First up, the panels. Went and picked up some black screws from the DIY store and fixed the top plates on. When I have the hardware to actually fit into them I'll do the cuts, I don't want to do it until then incase I get the sizes wrong.

 

I made the AHCP plates, again, not drilled until later. In the photos it stick out from the front panel because I've not made the cut in it for the panel to sit in, which leads me onto todays big development!

 

The front panel. You'll notice that this is a lot shorter than the real thing, for a number of reasons. Primarily it'd make the display higher than I'd have liked. As it is at the moment the display is at perfect eye level, which is very comfortable for me. Secondly I don't plan on a complete replica, therefore I don't need to make room for all the instruments.

 

There will be a display (Size undecided) which serves two Cougar MFD's and some select Helios instruments. I will also be fitting the AHCP and the Gear panel, perhaps a couple of bits like HARS Fast Erect and some others, we'll see.

 

When I come to fit the display I'll be making a cut in the cabinet for it to sit in, It'll all come out of its casing so I don't need to make too much room for it. I'll likely look into wall mounting the main display, or just move it back, we'll see.

 

Without further ado, the customary eye candy!

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

Looking very nice Ragtop, if you want I can send you my monitor size, its about 2-3" narrower (50.8 - 76.2mm) than what's required to fit in between the MFD edges but perfect on the vertical front. Most monitors that are bigger are too tall to fit behind the panel. That said I'm going to re-do my front panel layout to make it work.

 

If you do place a monitor behind the panel you might raise the landing gear/arming panels so you have room for switches and wires behind them. Thats what I plan for (have to make compromises somewhere!

[Ragtop]

Thanks Hitch. I've got a friend who's giving me a display but I don't know the size yet, so I imagine I'll be doing everything custom, but if I run into trouble I'll be in touch!

[Strix]

Nice work Ragtop!

I started on my right side now. Did build the frame in 1 hours! Made it 10cm shorter! Due to lack of space.

So its not as well build as yours... But it holds together...

I installed the ELEC PWR panel on it so far. Gone mount switches on AIR and LIGHT panels to.

And now I try to build a UFC! OMG...

I noticed that u made a big space between AIR and ELEC panel and same on left side betwen THROTTLE and FUEL panels to! Is it your own idea?

[Ragtop]

Sounds great dude, look forward to seeing your updates.

 

I'll be tackling the light panel next I think, there's a few I want to do on the Right console, but none of them are particularly important, I need to do the fuel panel really, but it's on the other console and I think that's going to need another Bodnar board, which will have to wait until next month!

 

Check photos of the real thing, that gap is there too :)

[TulsA-10]

Man your setup is looking really good. I think our pits will look almost identical. Do you have dimensions for your left, righ consoles and the center console?