ChromeWasp

immortal off certainly focuses the mind i fly like a maniac but haven't managed to get rotor intersection yet (i try to be a smooth maniac though)

ok - immortal is going off tomorrow :-) I am looking for a track file that shows off some interesting flying and efficient use of weapons etc. somebody who knows what they are doing showing off for 15 minutes stuff like: transition from high speed cruise to hover behind building (with no time wasted) and targets being rapidly dispatched and some hard but controlled tactical flying

hi i can mostly fly the shark now and use the ap and weapons quite well now starting to think about tactics and turning off immortal mode i am flying the QuickStart Arcade Mission again and again does anybody have a TRK showing that mission executed well? i still haven't found any impressive TRK files (except for frazer aeros) where are the good TRK files? is there a trick to searching the forum for them?

heard good things about CH rudder pedals doubt if CH would play games with drivers, although I have experienced "driver wars" between logitech and microsoft products in past due to filters being left behind after uninstall thinking about using the throttles on my AV8R as they are better than FFB2 throttle (higher resolution, smoother and easier to control) mixing game controllers from different vendors shouldn't be an issue - I have 4 different controllers at the moment with no problems

Hi Just got my FFB2 working nicely, here are some tips that might save you some time: - WinXP already has FFB2 drivers // no need to install any software - to solve problem of pulling right after trimming set "Switch Axis" in FF TUNE control options - FFB2 has hand sensor which is light beam between 2 points - just below trigger to just above hand grip base - cover this with electric tape otherwise you can move the controls // you can see status of hand sensor by watching the large green light // dim = no hand present = no force feedback - there maybe issues with non-linear or non-default control curves // try and use default curves if possible - central trim is turned off // but don't think it matters once configured correctly it works very well

storing targets is very handy - you can laser targets from a very long way away and then plan the attack once the action begins switching targets is just 3 button presses: TGT# CAGE UNCAGE also I have the buttons for storing tgts setup in a line - I can store a new target with three fingers on my left hand in under 2 seconds I use ROUTE with a low airspeed (~30 kph) so I can arrive at high speed and after reducing speed to ~50 kph I turn off FD and release weapons, switch target, release weapons, switch release, switch release // knowing the helicopter is stable I only need to scan altitude, vspeed and gndspeed every 10 or 20 seconds - sometimes the targets are finished before I check ROUTE mode has much more heading authority than HOVER mode - and with some forward airspeed it is less likely to oscillate also

a very good tip, thanks thanks - just when I think I understand it all - something unexpected happens

I appreciate the sentiment but it isn't possible to learn when you are constantly restarting the mission - I will turn off immortal when I have a hope in hell's chance of surviving for more than 30 seconds

and that makes sense now I think about it I am sure it shows the current control input - not the rudder position because it will show 0 when I have full left rudder trim [EDIT] hmm it does normally show rudder position - now I am confused because sometimes I definitely have full left rudder trim but red box shows center - and it takes 3 or 4 attempts before I can pull the trim back to center ... The only way to fix the accidental trim is to apply right rudder - retrim test - repeat, until you manage to drag the hidden rudder trim back to zero Either that or hold cyclic well forward and click Reset Trim ... and then ride the rodeo for a few seconds There are 3 things I keep in my mind: a) Control Position (the joystick physical position) b) Trim Position (by feel / attitude / angular velocity) c) AutoPilot control signal (within 20% authority band) (by deduction) but (b) can be a big surprise when you disengage an AP mode - which is why we need that information in the red box

Each AP mode responds to TRIM in a different way I had assumed during HOVER mode that TRIM was setting HEADING only but it also sets RUDDER trim So when you exit a HOVER that required rudder to hold a heading you will have some hidden rudder trim IRL you would feel this in the pedals - if the RCTRL+ENTER red box control display would indicate rudder trim that would help alot - as this information would be available to a real pilot - but isn't available to us

I found a good altitude hold + radar altimeter technique Always activate the ALT HOLD mode with about 2 to 3 m/s of vertical speed (upwards) as you cross your target altitude This will bias the APs authority towards ascending ... then the AP will have around 36% authority to keep you away from ground ... So if I want to hold at 40m I descend to 30m then ascend at 3m/s then activate ALT HOLD as I reach 40m Now you can perform low level tactical manoevres and the AP will mostly avoid the ground for you

------------------------------------------------------------ SHKVAL + PVI800 TARGET POINTS HOW TO ------------------------------------------------------------ SETUP ------------------------------------------------------------ PVI800: Switch to INU mode ------------------------------------------------------------ STORE TARGET ------------------------------------------------------------ SHKVAL: Designate Target (O) SHKVAL: Use Laser to get Range (ENTER) PVI800: Turn anticlockwise to EDIT mode PVI800: Press TARGET button (OT) PVI800: Press TP# button [0]-[9] SHKVAL: Press Designate (O) PVI800: Press ENTER (BB0A) PVI800: Turn clockwise to OPERATE mode ------------------------------------------------------------ RETURN TO TARGET ------------------------------------------------------------ PVI800: Ensure in OPERATE mode PVI800: Press TARGET button (OT) PVI800: Press TP# button [0]-[9] SHKVAL: Cage (BACK) SHKVAL: Designate (O) (Uncage) // confirm target active AP: Route Mode ® AP: Turn to Target (Q) ------------------------------------------------------------ CHANGE TARGET // from current target to new target ------------------------------------------------------------ PVI800: Press TP# button [0]-[9] SHKVAL: Cage (BACK) SHKVAL: Designate (O) (Uncage) // confirm target active ------------------------------------------------------------ --(END) ------------------------------------------------------------

:prop: Yes! this works perfectly But I think it is the opposite of what the manual says ...

Lovely that works perfectly just have to hit the datalink target type button N times to select my target :-)

thanks I will try wrangling the datalink :-)

(The manual isn't clear on this) I was thinking (hoping) that by selecting a shkval generated Target Point that, upon recall, the 3D coordinate would be transmitted to the shkval - so you could literally return directly to the target - because the shkval would be looking for the original point as happens if you designated a point and then flew away (without caging the shkval) - and then activated route mode + turn to target But I am thinking it only transmits coordinate to autopilot - not to shkval I have been storing a single enemy soldier in TP#5 then locking the shkval - flying away and then hoping to return with shkval pointing at exact same location That way I could store 5 TPs and take them all out by just pressing 1 to 5 on the NAV pad and release or fire weapons So I have to manually find them again with the shkval each time?

Sounds like good advice Can the ABRIS store a 3D position and restore this to the shkval later?

I managed to store a target in the PVI-800 as TP#5 I can use ROUTE mode to navigate back to the TP but I want to setup the TP as the current SHKVAL target so I can do a low high-speed run-in - with weapons alreading aiming in correct direction That will work if I just fly away and then turn on turn to target (without using the PVI-800) Ideally I want to set multiple targets and take them all out in one pass By pressing 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 after each kill Is that possible? Or does the PVI-800 only store rough coordinates - not with the full accuracy of the shkval?

I will try and find a Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 then G940 looks good but it's too big and too much hassle I was thinking about a new type of rudder control using pressure sensors just a flat piece of flexible plastic with placemarkers for your feet My AV8R-01 with center spring replaced by a car wash sponge is performing really well The sponge is just strong enough to hold center position for trimming but doesn't offer up any unrealistic resistance like a spring also reduces the horrible friction problems The general wisdom at my flying club is that if you use center sprung joystick at home and then get in a real aircraft - you are asking for trouble and could even get killed I did my worst ever real life landing after a rainy weekend on the simulator with a center sprung stick - in a key moment my brain reverted back to the incorrect sim inputs and caused a PIO This world is a strange place - 95% of flight sim joysticks are unsuitable for flight sims - but 95% of people buying joysticks aren't pilots so they don't know

FF sounds good then // G940 would have to try one before splashing Producer.cfg - I will check that out * News break * I dismantled my AV8R and removed the massive spring then I reassembled it and wondered what to do about the flopping ... ... I cut up a sponge and fit pieces of it where the spring used to be and then tied a piece of string around them End result ... now I fly like an angel (of death) - I can fly right up to enemy tank and just hover - do high speed low level 180 degrees coordinated turns - even started doing some basic aeros - I feel like a pilot again :-) Plus stick will roughly hold position *and* I can recenter it by pushing the ring down No way to change rudder spring though :-(

center sprung joysticks ruin my flight simming I don't know of a real aircraft with a center sprung stick because it would be incredibly dangerous So many people are having problems with trimming but the real problem is the joystick centering I saw a post with a joystick mod with hydraulics now that is more like a real aircraft I haven't tried a force feedback joystick are they center sprung also? The other problem is that most real life joysticks are held by the fingers - not the hand But nearly all the joysticks available have wide bases so you ... can't ... use your fingers Luckily I got the old AV8R which doesn't have the base - but the center springing is ridiculous Surely it is possible to buy a joystick that is actually designed correctly: a) with little airspeed flops according to the control surfaces b) with airspeed resists c) you can fly with just your fingers / arm relaxed on the desk (I mean my glider is the most comfortable seat I know - but sitting at my desk with a massive plastic joystick and nowhere to rest my arm ...) The solution is a joystick designed to be used on a desk - with the arm resting and just the fingers and wrist moving It should be about 2 or 3 inches high - mounted very low and include: a) throttle lever b) pitch trim lever c) decent hat switch x 2 d) dials x 2 e) plenty of switches (the av8r has 13 - very handy) f) enough buttons so you don't need keyboard g) of course the force feedback hydraulic finger joystick with no springs h) analog thumbsticks x 2 plus when flying for real your arm usually lays across your lap so a joystick which is floor mounted and placed between your legs would be ideal - I've tried putting my joystick on a box in the right position - but the base is too big - one solution would be a joystick with a very long stick - again like a real aircraft - that sits on the floor - the long lever arm would also overcome the annoying friction that short joysticks suffer from I find it strange that the world is full of joysticks that are almost completely useless ch products industrial division do a desk joystick that looks interesting - but center sprung again ... So can anybody recommend a realistic joystick or are there inexpensive and good usb kits so you can build your own?

I discovered that center position before - and it isn't mentioned in the manual what does it do?

I am a numpty my joystick had some friction / sticking problems - a quick spray with PTFE and adjust the control curves and she flys like a dream now reminds me of the time I had a very slightly damaged steering bearing on my motorbike - it meant I slightly weaved all the time because the steering resisted moving out of the center point helicopters require a light touch

I will post track next time it happens is it possible to realign the inu in this case without landing and powering down?

what I mean is at the beginning of the flight things work normally but after 30 minutes or so things change so the helicopter will only fly with about 45 degrees of sideslip even if I reset trim - etc. it isn't a damage issue as I am IMMORTAL I think it is related to a hard landing the only explanation I can think of is inertial navigation error