Beezer

@nikola499 Did you by chance have an option with your stick for Gasket A or Gasket B? (From Winwing... not Q4R)

I haven't used the Q4R either (yet...) But their installation talks about the rubber gaskets that are provided and are supposed to add enough tension that they don't see the need for the grub screws anymore. Do you have those gaskets installed? The guy in the video seems to be very concerned with how everything is mated before screwing things together...

@nikola499 Welcome in and congrats on the winwing stick. It's a great one when you get it dialed in. Don't be overwhelmed yet... almost everything becomes pretty clear once the stick arrives and you get a chance to see it and use it. There are instructions that arrive with your stick that show you how to take it apart and add in the reeds to make the stick feel right. It will also depend on your personal preferences, and how high the qr4 rig makes the stick too. That part can take some time. It isn't quick to take apart, adjust, and put the stick back together, and then you gotta use it a bit to see how you like it. If you need to change the reeds, you gotta start all over again. But soon enough you find the physical set up that works, then you just tweak in-software... and that part is pretty user friendly. So basically... just wait until the stick arrives. Then read through the stuff and open it up for the reed adjustment. You will be fine! If not, we'll be here.

I Like the metal option too! Still think Winwing should have their own guys do something to fix this... But any object, 3d print, leftover plastic, or metal ring. As long as you are creative and can get the gap filled. That seems to be the key to making these sticks react the way they should in the game. I doubt I'd be selling these. Ultra cheap to make, but being so small they would need a bit of protection in the mail. Then they would cost way more to ship then they are worth too. If you don't know anybody who has a 3d printer, then go with the plastic or hose clamp.

@Gunfreak I think the one you found was probably the only one out there so far. (https://qr4rigs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=172) I'm in the same boat... I'd love to order one, but I'd spend more on shipping than what the product costs. Kinda nuts until a better option comes along. Or I order it and don't tell the wifey until a lot later...

Guess I can take off my Phantom T-shirt. Maybe it will fit better tomorrow...

I have seen that the real stick is both rotated, and tilted forward. The rotation seems easy, you can simply mount your stick rotated to the ergonomics of your hand and seating position. Of course that depends on if your mount will support the angle. The stick rotation is slightly adjustable with a lock screw at the base, so you might be able to offset the rotation a bit there. As for the forward tilt, there is a solution from this site: https://qr4rigs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=172 I haven't pulled the trigger on that one due to shipping costing WAY too much for my liking... but it sure would be nice. I have my stick side mounted as well, and haven't needed to adjust the rotation at all.

@modsat Congrats on the upcoming hardware! Sit back, relax, and grab a beer. It isn't too difficult, and will become clear once you get your stick. Print 2 scoops if you can, maybe 3 or 4 for backups if you have to have them printed elsewhere. I printed only 2, and haven't had to replace anything yet, but i have my own printer so making replacements would be easy for me. They are tiny, take little time to print, and should cost very little if you have to hire the service. The reeds are the same as the spring plates. They are small metal strips that will arrive with your stick. They can be added or removed to adjust the physical stiffness of the moveable portion of your stick. Once it arrives, you can use the included hex wrenches to take apart the stick and it becomes very apparent. You can install up to 3 reeds per direction (X+ X- Y+ Y-) for a total of 6 per axis (X Y). It is to your own preference how hard you want that half axis to be, and it can be asymmetrical if you want. As for loosening the PCB, @Outlaw might have been the first to try that trick. I haven't yet! But he's referring to the circuit board behind the reed setup. You can find documentation on the WinWing website, though I found it lacking. It might be intimidating, but pulling that stick apart gets you familiar with it real quick.

Hasn't yet! It's thin... but it isn't being pulled apart, just wedged in. So the other parts just push against it. You could probably print it out of something stronger if you were concerned. I used standard PLA, but you could go for PLA+ or PETG for something tougher. ABS would be great, but it never prints clean for me.

also check this thread: Papamiraculi came up with a solution that works perhaps even better than the realistic mode.

Glad it's working out for you! Hope it works for anybody who uses it. I have been loving the MFSSB since. Papamiraculi was the real genius. I'm just the guy with too much time on my hands and a CAD program...

@TripRodriguez I have a Elegoo neptune max fdm printer. It's been good, but definitely need to dial in settings. I'm not sure what settings will work for anyone else on their units, as I'm certainly no 3d printer wiz. I used regular PLA with a 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height with 0.4 line width. Wall thickness doesn't matter here because it's only one pass. I did print the scoop upside down, and with standard support underneath for the overhang. Printed great first round for me... though I also printed a couple others at varying wall thickness until this one fit in the stick.

Papamiraculi: you, Sir, are a genius. I started using force sensing sticks way back when with the Saitek X65F. Must've been about 20 years ago. Received it as a gift, and hated it. However, as time went on I practiced with it a lot, got used to it, and grew to love it. Fast forward to a few months back I upgraded to the winwing MFSSB, and have been trying to dial it in for a while now. I too found the stepping to be a problem, and the force only mode was like trying to use a stick with a massive center deadzone. I purchased the extension for the stick, and have been using the fully realistic mode with some good results. Though I find delicate work (like aerial refueling) to still be too fidly within the small confines of the movement of the stick. When I saw your post I was intrigued. Owning a 3D printer, I engineered a little scoop that does just what your cardboard does, and voila... so far, so good. I too now have the smooth linear movement I'm after. I posted my settings below, which may need to be tweaked. I am using the force only mode now at 30% strength (with the extension, and the same reed setup as you have), and a 2% deadzone. To me, this is what the stick should feel like. It has a little movement, but is completely force sensing otherwise. Winwing should supply little things like this with the stick. My only other wish for this stick would be quick settings to change the force on the fly. I had that option on my old X65f, and I miss it. Was great for keeping a heavier hand for hard manoeuvring, and then quickly switching to a lighter force for refueling. I threw in the STL file if anyone else here has a 3d printer and wants to punch a couple out for their rigs, or make it better. One small advantage of this little gizmo is that it makes re-centering the stick real easy after you change out the reeds. If it isn't centered, it doesn't fit in! Thanks again. MFSSB Insert.stl