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Hi, sorry about the slip up. It shouldn't be too hard to do the fix - there is very little what can go wrong and if you won't have luck let me know and i'll send you a new cable or you can send it back and i'll fixit for you. All what is required is just philips screw driver, any knife and some glue. Step 1) undo the top screw on shaft 2) pull out the male plastic bit with connector 3) pull the connector out of the male part (there i a hot glue which is not too hard to remove) 4) strip 2-3mm of the plastic as per photos (i think 1-2 pages back) 5) test if the connector protrues enough ~2mm (put it in without a glue first) 6) use some glue on the connector and insert the connector 7) insert the male end back into shaft and put the screw back. 8 ) patt your self on the back and have a beer - all done! If you'll get stuck pm me or if you have a skype pm me your nicknme and i'll talk you through it or send you a photo guide Cheers tomas

Just a thought - I've got my "Mad Genius" hat on today and I've started playing with idea how to attach the joystick below table level with adjustable height to give it more natural feel - is it something that might be interesting for anyone? I'll post pics in day or two

@ RogueSqdn - try the hot glue on bottom connector as well. Just a thought - is the extension tight? One important observation - if you are tightening or releasing the extension make sure you always hold the handle with one hand and rotate the female bit with the other hand. If you'll hold the base instead and apply too much torque it can damage your joystick (easy to fix though) @wolle - it might be a case of tolerances adding up -I'll send you new parts on monday and lets see if it will solve the problem :-)

re the best glue - i would say any glue for plastic including the instant should work - the instant glue will need probably about an hour to cure because the surface is not porous and there is not much ventilation. Hot glue is ok if you want to exchange the extension shaft in a future.

Hi Wolle, Looks like there might be something going on. At the first glance it looks as it should but just in case can you check the following lengths?

the female bit should be sliding up and down - can you check if it is stuck and if you can rotate it?

So here it is - sorry about the slip up. That's how it looks at the moment - I left the black plastic too long. Cut the black part off (about 3mm back - the top of the square with the arrow inside is a good guide) And here is a final result. If you want to change the length of the extension in a future I would recommend the hot glue otherwise you can use strong glue. the bit should be protruding about 2mm try the extension and if you'll have still problems here is how to deal with the screws quickly and easily. All you need is a 7mm drill bit and use it to enlarge the hole for the screw head. You need to drill just about 3mm deep. It can be quite tricky as the drill likes to grab on the plastic and you can end up going bit deeper than you wanted so do it carefully please. http://www.simpit.co.nz/images/galeries/warthog/New/IMG_3424.JPG and final result if you'll have troubles with any of those two steps or something will go wrong with drilling or cutting let me know and I'll send you the new bits or cable. If by any chance you'll be changing the cable for your own make sure you enlarge the hole on female bit otherwise you will break off the plastic bit on your hand piece. Let me know if it helps - I'll be checking the forum frequently now

ok guys - found where the problem is. I didn't strip the female piece far enough (no giggling ;-) ) and I didn't pre-drill the holes for the new bigger screws (before I was using bolts with smaller head). Fix is quick and easy - Just uploading photos. All you need is a 7mm drill and sharp knife (7 mm drill is optional)

Hi hookie, sorry about that, If the buttons are all active it means the cable is not connected or cables were broken. I have to shorten the original ps2 cable as it doesn't fit inside. I've tested all extensions after soldering with my joystick here and it was working but i wonder if i've managed to pull a cable or break it when i was putting it all togerther (it was about 3:30 am when i finished so it is possible). I'll flick you an email how to check it and if the cable is broken or damaged i'll send you experss new one - it's quite easy to change.

@ airdog - LOL - even better - it's on a fast plane from NZ to US

Hi cowboy10uk, it just unscrews from base, slot it in and all done. I think 70 cm would be bit too big throw unless you'll use pivots to reduce the stick movent (bit complicated tho). 7,5cm on table should work much better. The shipping is 122 to Uk.

merry xmas everyone. the stick extensions are on the way since 24th morning. Once my PC will be working again I'll send you the tracking numbers (the bloody thing died on me and doesn't even beep)

cheers guys, everything will be ready to go on monday :-). @ hokie17 - if you can do a clean cut it shouldn't be a problem. I'try to screw the connector in instead of gluing it. hopefully it will work

sorry guys - looks like PayPal let us down for a moment - it should be all working now :-)

All right - all done and ready :-) - the paypal button with shipping options is @ http://www.simpit.co.nz front page. Don't forget to specify the length of the extension between 7.5 cm up to 30cm. as metalnwood mentioned before the recommended length is 7,5 cm - 10 cm.

Merry chrismas everyone - the cables just arrived :-) The orders will be available via http://www.simpit.co.nz within 12hrs. Just working on the page now.

few more photos of the extension - the shaft is from brushed aluminium, @wolle - for the chair/seat i usually mount the joystick so the handle is roughly about the same height as my belly button - so I can comfortably rest my forearm on my thigh (same position as in an airplane/helicopter). I usually lift /lower the base according to the shaft length. Might be worth to ask other guys for their opinion = metalnwood had a good suggestion as well. detail of the bottom side view top offset adjustment detail of the sliding nut - the nut can move freely same as on the warthog (shaft is static - locked in place) At the moment I'm just waiting for the courier to turn up with the cables and I can start shipping. I think it at this stage I can safely say I'm ready to start taking orders :-)

the offset is rotational to allow for both right and left handed and the 0 is the original thrustmaster setting. I've tried to bend the actual shaft as well but the results are not very consistent so at the moment it's on hold. On the bright side - I made the design "future proof" so the shaft can be removed and replaced with longer one or shaped one. I'll post youtube video online once I'll get the cables

@ metalnwood - I was actually ging to buy one of your extensions but unfortunately it wasn't available - so I had to go to drawing board myself :-). @ JaseGill - the curency is NZD. The stick will come with the internal cable - just waiting for the courier to pop around with the box. thanks - i'm quite proud of the icarus :-) @hokie17 - done :-)

EDITED: - here is little vid of the extension, how to connect and disconnect it - easy, safe and quick. Hi Guys, New extension for Thrustmaster Warthog is almost ready for production. It has variable offset -20º, 0º, and +20º and other offsets can be done on request. The shaft can be cut to any length and basic color will be Black and there will be more colors available once it will go to full production (Red, Blue, Orange, White and Glow in the dark). The price wil be around $100 mark. The final price and production date will be announced very soon via facebook (SimPit technologies) and website http://www.simpit.co.nz. If anybody will be interested let me know in advance so I can make enough for everybody.

Systems like the Icarus give you the advantage of natural view, no eyestrain and you can spend hours flying without reaching for a bucket. It gives you much better situational awareness as you can use your whole peripheral vision and you can multitask (use hotas, MFD, switches, mouse, keyboard) without interrupting the simulation and loosing immersion. With wide FoV you can have the nose of the aircraft pointing majority of the time forward and it gives you much better sense where the aircraft is flying and the systems can operate in 3D as well .

I know of Oculus Rift - pretty cool and good improvement, very good invention but very different product for very different purpose. 110 degrees fov is far away from full peripheral vision though (not too bad for 3D glasses though). It will definitely save you some space at home and 3D glasses are very good - for spectators. For flight simulation I haven't found it practical in any way. I used 3D glasses extensively and it gets old very quick - if you want to look around you have to turn your whole head - which makes the whole experience bit awkward. Looking around (just moving your eyes) is very awkward as well and it causes quite a bit of eyestrain and nausea (3D glasses have to use lenses to correct for the viewing distance - if you move your eye the image behaves as if it is behind thick glass). And I'm not mentioning the troubles when trying to pickup the joystick, click on something with mouse or find something on the keyboard (glasses go up and down like a yoyo all the time and the whole effect is spoiled). 3D glasses are fantastic invention but from my experience those are good just for passive viewing - I hope the Rift will be as good as they say - it would be great for watching VFAT and live virtual car racing.

hi - these screens are actually curved and rear projected :-) just launched project icarus - 2 projector version for 1750 USD (180 FOV)

Project Icarus is here and it is officially released! - 180º of uninterrupted viewing vistas. The first unit is almost completed and will be heading to Australia next week. Retail price for one of these little wonders is 1 750,- USD and/or 1 550,- EUR. (screen construction, mirrors, projector mounts) ADD 2 cheap LED projectors and warping software and your home/gaming PC and you have the best gaming setup ever! First unit is leaving to Australia next week and will be available for demoing pretty much straight away.

Hi, the design is "future proof" - as long as the projectors will have reasonably short throw you can mount it and use it - so the upgrades can go on and on. The mirrors can be adjusted for new type of projectors and the mounts as well. you can use even standard throw 4k projectors now providing there is enough room behind or the projectors are fitted with short throw lenses.