humptydumpty
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Posts posted by humptydumpty
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I found an alternative , with an arduino uno and a MPU 6050 , it works perfect. the only thing is to keep the MPU 6050 leveled so i stuck it to the joystick handle.
I will use the hall effect on the other stick.
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I too have an arduino Uno R3 clone, it works perfect in X-plane using ArdsimX , i need to try DCS and il2, currently what i have done is connect MPU 6050 to make it a precise stick and i think it looks good.
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Yes, pretty standard:
Yep , i will be taking it from the joysticks cable which connects to the stick circuit and it shows 5v.
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So 5v is available from the joysticks USB
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I think i will pull the 5v from the logitech's usb cable where it connects to the sticks card. will try tomorrow, my guess it should give me 5v
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Gear is unnecessary complication = backslash.
BTW - The best collective mechanism I see in forums around (including hover-control) is UO53 multi-disk brakes. May surpassed only by eletro-magnetic brakes.
Is based on this Russian heli colective:
http://avia-sim.ru/forum/download/file.php?id=4143
http://avia-sim.ru/forum/download/file.php?id=4141
Need "perk" in this extended topic to understand the design.
http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=630&start=630
A low tech version of the system, using a car handbrake as collective lever - and plywood pieces as brake. :D
http://avia-sim.ru/forum/download/file.php?id=4823
http://avia-sim.ru/forum/download/file.php?id=4830
Wow that's some heavy duty thing, now to steal someones bike handle :)
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Relatively cheap.
Readily available.
Dimensionally stable.
Easy to work
Durable
Matches the base for the chair and cyclic I use.
And I don't need my TIG or MIG to join bits of it together simply use screws.
:D
Yes that is my collective it's got some hundreds of hours of V-Flight time on it now.
Yes this is a section of gas line a composite of nylon inner steel tube and a hard plastic outer very stiff but very light weight and just happened to be the correct inner and outer dimensions.
I get there is no coil now I was trying to illustrate the arc traveled by the coil in the magnetic field and this is essentially the arc and distance that you need to duplicate, see the article Sokol1_br linked it's a good solution for you I think.
@Fragbum
I am planning on a full metal collective , i don't know how it will be but i am thinking of attaching gears to the collective rotation point.
I don't know what base i will use , maybe a full aluminium body or wood but i am sure i will make the collective handle from metal if i get the right one else PVC,
Why i will use the gears for the collective is to keep it stable.
The idea is just in my head for now. But i will get there.
The main idea is to have for both fixed wing and helis but helis is now a much higher preference due to X-plane.
Let's see how it goes , still figuring out the arduino config at least for the switches and rotary buttons. I am not looking at a full scale pit but only for comms / Nav and maybe a few things more like the light switches.
I have a few toggle switches but i am not sure how it should be connected to the arduino , though i am checking a few designs.
Will adjust the magnets tomorrow or get more of the button types , the big coin sized ones.
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Try reduce the gap between the magnet and the sensor, this may improve the range.
Rgr, in fact i need to touch the sensor with it and that's when i can see the full axis movement.
Thanks.
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Okay if your using a magnet assembly from a HDD, the flat section usually having a radius shape goes from north pole to south pole from end to end. In the case of the HDD the rotor {coil} would maintain critical distance from the surface of the magnet but move through the arc of the magnet structure based on applied drive to the coil. We want to reverse the mechanics and rotate the magnet assembly over the sensor. Whilst maintaining constant distance relationship and keeping the radius of the arc over the sensor. Easy. Right. :D
Yes the one is North and the other South. I do have two button type magnets but whichever works i am ok with. There is no coil , i have separated the magnets from the HDD
Oh yeah getting the arc on the sensor will not be an easy thing.
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My cray hacks in pursuit if DCS
As for getting a positive and negative voltage change from 1/2vdd I tried rotating a button magnet (about 12mm by 3 mm magnets from a hardware store) and if I center the disk over the sensor sweet spot I can get the voltage about half vdd and if I rotate the disk so that it swings one way or the other I can get all be it shaky transitions going higher or lower depending on the pole I expose to the sensor.
BUT! I need to build a jig to test it as the distance set between the magnet pivot point and the sensor needs to be critically fixed although by hand I can get from 1.2ish to 3.6ish volts with maybe 60 deg rotation.
WHy a wooden collective base ? i suppose that is the collective.
And the extended stick looks exactly like the one i have modded using a 2 feet PVC pipe.
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Okay 2 things here what Sokol1_br is saying is to get the +5 volt from the USB supply of the USB into the joystick. I'll also have a look at the link to see what the difference is in the devices used.
The output voltage varies either up from (1/2 vdd) 2.5V or down from 2.5V depending on the polarity of the magnetic field north or south pole and the amount it varies depends on the strength of the magnetic field the transfer curve is shown in the data sheet.
So the magnets from say a HDD should be strong enough but it can be difficult to utilise both poles. For my cyclic I'm using small button magnets but I am still experimenting with how to derive the variable magnetic field one simple method is to arrange it so the magnet moves from about 10mm or so to right up to (almost touching) the body of the Hall effect device.
I also need to experiment with button magnets and I am thinking of arranging it so the magnet is close to the device and rotates on axis perpendicular such that in center both poles are close and as the magnet is rotated one or the other pole is bought closer to the device but I need to check this out as well there maybe problems with the transfer curve.
The biggest issue with this is that I may need to scale and level shift the signal to feed the control voltage into the existing controller either using analogue op amps or use maybe an AVR A to D the input signal modify the value then D to A for input to a controller. Of course all that could be incorporated into a single AVR but doing USB protocol in assembler might be a bit ambitious.
About the magnets , the best position i found is at the front and rotate the magnet clockwise and anti-clockwise works but it will not give me MAX high on the axis , this i need to figure it.
Of course i am not an electronics person , had done some way back in the 90's thats it :)
I just know to solder and check voltage ehehe.
But i will figure something out.
ABout your control setup , can you post some shots ? i need to make the collective with the throttle.
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Yes, but you can use the same principle in Logitech (see bellow he say that did this based in a how to for Logitech) if find a way to isolate the +2.5 line from PCB - what is easy if cut the wire near PCB and supply that wire with the +5V from USB (from where this enter in controller PCB).
Anyway is just one more option to do this. :D
Sokol,
I will look into it. THanks.
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Anyone have any videos or shots of the magnets position ? i am a bit confused because the whole range of the axis does not happen unless i touch the magnets to the sensor
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In this "how-to" the guy are connecting HALL sensor (SS495A1) in Saitek X-45, in what potentiometers (he call resistors) are supply with 2,5 volts.
He remove a jumper (R13) that came from +2.5v source and in the point near potentiometer connections solder a cable with +5v, coming from USB cable (connection with PC).
In that way he are by-passing the reduction for +2.5v done by Saitek circuit (similar in Logitech). The Gnd connection remain the original of circuit.
https://sfw.so/1149033286-ustanovka-datchikov-holla-v-dzhoystik.html
In Russian, but Google Translator make "readable" in English.
In this "MOD" he are using the old potentiometer as axis for Neodymium magnet, and pot tabs as support for the hall.
Sokol,
The circuit of the logitech is very small and it does not have a jumper , but thanks for the link i will go through it.
Right now i am more concerned about the magnets position because i know at least the hall effect is working with external voltage. but what the position of the magnets should be is a bit dicey
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@Fragbum
Just checked the voltage on the logitech Pins , 3rd is ground and the voltage i get is around 3.9 to 4v , but on the 2nd pin the voltage is way too low around 0.25v.
Now i am thinking of using 5v of the arduino rather than connecting the external USB power.
One thing if you would help me with is the position of the magnet to the MH481. what i have noticed is that the axis only goes half way , meaning it will go to 100% but remain at 50% when moving the magnet away , so it remains in the center , this i am trying on the Z axis for now ,but using different angles i get the axis to full high and full low which is a bit confusing. Would appreciate some suggestions
Now i know that the sensors are working so i can use the arduino for gauges display and switches that should be fine. As the 10k pot is working on it using Unojoy.
Maybe later i might by the Leonardo board but that;s later. Before that i have to figure out the collective with throttle design.
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Meh my bad pin 1 vdd and pin 2 gnd !!
Do you mean on the logitech pins ? What i remember was that the 3rd pin is ground because that's when i get some voltate showing up on the meter , but the moment i get home i will test it again.
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So when you have the device connected to the Logitech is there like about 5V between pin 1 GND ans pin 2 vdd?
There maybe build out resisters between the supply lines to the "pot" perhaps worth investigating.
When i connect the Sensor only to the Logitech pins the voltage on the analogue drops below 1v.
What I will do is once i get back home in a couple of hours , recheck the voltages and post it here.
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Okay but would it not be better to just run the device from the Logitech supply and avoid?
A USB power source for testing but now it should just run off the Logitech now that you know it works.
Yes that is the best option , but strangely the voltage is way below 1v on the analogue pin when i connect them only to the logitech.
But surprises me is why it is working the way i have connected , maybe not enough grounding i don't know.
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@Fragbum
@Sokol1_br
Very weird think happened when today morning before leaving for work i tried the hall effect back on the logitech attack 3 with a 5v USB external power , the axis was jumping , i don't know from where i got this brilliant idea , but i went ahead and connected the VCC and the GND of the logitech on to the relevant pins of the hall effect.
Now both USB 5V + GND and Logitech 5v + GND are connected to the hall effect pins and the 3rd to the analougue and then i put the magnet and voila there it was working and super smooth.
Now i need to figure out how to connect the magnets in the efficient way.
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In this case no 'joy'. :D
AT328 is not supported in MMjoy2 firmware - maybe in early MMJoy firmware's for Mjoy16... not sure if remain available in MegaMOZG page.
BTW - I find there an old MMjoy package (2014) that include 'MMJoy_atmega328p_16000000_32.hex' firmware.
Yeah it don't work nothing works :( i will check mjoy16 thanks.
I tried unojoy and connected a pot to the A0 but nothing
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If your UNO use ATMEGA32u4 or AT90USB MMJoy2 firmware is what you need - was developed by MegaMOZG, the guy behind VirPil electronics.
Check MMjoy2 topic there in ED forum.
Hi Sokol,
The chip has a label AT328p-u and I am already trying MMjoy, though thanks for the info. I will post the results. I do have the hall effect connected on Digital pin 12 lets see how does MMjoy
Its a clone Arduino Uno R3
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@Fragbum
This is what I am going to try , it has something for Hall sensors, I have not yet found anything with Unojoy using Hall sensors.
https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Connecting-basic-inputs-and-setting-up-software
Wish me luck that I don't brick it again :)
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It would be better to establish that the HALL effect device is working correctly before writing code. This will only require a digital meter to see if the voltage changes with proximity of the magnet.
Also pin 3 is not data in a CPU sense it's an analogue voltage value. :D
Hi,
The hall effect is working with the magnets, I checked it with the meter and also using a LED , so If I get the south pole next to the sensor the LED lights up and when I move it away the light goes off and same with the voltage it drops below 2.0v.
Though I need to change the firmware to Unojoy and I almost bricked it:). I am not sure how I will go about the sensors with Unojoy . There is also MMjoy. I need to check more so that I can use this as a HID Joystick and also if possible for some gauges to display.
The Arduino Uno what I have is the clone one.
Thanks for the help Fragbum.
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So tried the Arduino uno using a LED and put the magnet near the sensor and the light is going ON and then OFF depending on the magnetic distance.
Thanks Fragbum about the data pin :)
Now I will search for a code for the axis and lets see how it goes, the plan is to make a cyclic / collective with the throttle .
[RESOLVED]MetaShader build error (x86) folder
in Game Crash
Posted
I am seeing this in the log
"(this situation should not occur on end user PC, if there is no manual shader editing)" , i notice this in MP. It will connect now the 1st time but then will not respond once it's connected so i stay in the Spectator menu and then i need to quit it.
Though my system is way below the required config. I am not complaining about the performance.