humptydumpty
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Posts posted by humptydumpty
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The magnet effect does move the axis but it's not noticeable unless one watches it closely. let me read the data sheet of this sensor.
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Shouldn't need more Gauss??
Auto jumps, explain please. Are you using a DMM or the axis indicators in DCS?
Auto jumping as in the axis moves on it's own , e.g. when calibrating the throttle on the Z axis you will see the movement happens auto.
I am using windows device calibration axis indicators. Device and Printers under that , so if you try to calibrate it will have a red and blue bar which automatically keeps going up right or left. even when there is no magnetic field.
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Yes and the voltage on pin 3 should vary with distance when you bring a magnet up to the device. ;)
Yep it drops voltage when the magnet distance varies. But it still auto jumps without any magnets around it. I will need to check that.
I have the button type neodiums , if needed can extra the ones from the old hdds.
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Because the device can not work correctly the way you've configured it from what I get here from your post.
The output pin is an emitter follower with a typical 65uA constant current source according the the spec sheet.
The output will typically be at 1/2 vdd with no magnetic field in proximity to it so about 2.5V
The middle pin is ground according to the MH481 spec sheet not output!
Connect vdd to pin 1 this can be in the case of MH481 between 3.5V and 6.5V so the 5V supply you have is fine for testing.
The middle pin goes to ground (o0V and pin 3 is the analogue output of the device, in this condition the voltage on pin 3 should be 2.5V and vary either up or down depending on the polarity of the magnetic field from 2.5V down to about 1V or 2.5V up to about 4V
You need to understand that the HALL effect device may not be a 100% drop in replacement for a potentiometer! At least not without some funky calibrations and some mechanical intervention.
Hi Fragbum,
Thanks yes looks like the 3rd pin is the data output. And now when I check the voltage on the data it is 2.49 . The axis do seem to move with the magnets but that auto jumping is yet there.
Thanks for your help for the analogue output.
One more step ahead .
Yes I completely understand that's it might not be a 100% replacement but for the Logitech attack separate pots aren't available because these are very tiny and have askmed around but the don't seem have them.
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Ok, so here's what I did , I used USB 5V Vcc and connected a 10k resistor on the VCC pin and put the middle pin to the Logitech Data pin , and then I saw the axis are jumping even if I don't do anything. though some magnetic field detection is happening but the axis are too twitchy , so at least I went one step further , now got to figure out why is the axis jumping when there is no magnetic field near it.
Voltage on the Hall sensor using USB power is showing around 4v so that's fine.
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You all are so lucky to have working Sensors :(
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5V should not kill the MH481! If anything the resistor wont allow it to work as there will be too much voltage drop to the device at 4ma quiescent current.
I am experimenting with the UGN5303 and run it directly off a USB 5V power supply, if you need it to run on 3.3V which is out of spec according to the spec sheet, use a voltage regulator.
Yep it shouldn't , the Logitech is 3.3v when I searched on the net but strangely I am getting 4v but still that's ok , I will check this voltage regulator or try a USB VCC to it.
Thanks.
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well I haven't yet ordered the other Hall Sensors, so now I thought I will retry the MH481 and to my surprise the Voltage drops when I connect these MH481 from 4v straight down to under 1v. I am sure the sensors aren't shorted , just to check , used a 10k on the joystick 4v to VCC of the hall sensor using the other MH481 and same under 1v.
According to the data sheet it's output should be around 2.5v that's if I read it correctly.
Would appreciate any advise.
P.S: Yes I need to get hold of the Allegro but I have these MH481 fresh so thought will try it.
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Well you where posting about difficulties in MP. I perhaps too briefly posted that less than 8 Gb's is really going to limit your MP enjoyment. I used to use 6Gb and struggled to join MP. I upgraded to 12 Gb and saw a huge difference. Just trying to help though sorry :)
No worries :) I used 8 GB today which is the max this board supports so until I get a system overhaul I will have to join the MP the same way :)
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Please fix wanted.
In my opinion the "clients" are guilty. :D
I agree , but is the MP login an issue due to low hardware ?
Because the 1st time it never connects and only on the 2nd try it will connect to the server and if the server resets than its the same thing all over again. The 1st try can take almost 10-15 but the 2nd time it will connect within a couple of minutes.
Me thinks its loading a lot of stuff on the 1st try.
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Er yeah I did, it was aimed at the guy with 8Gb and the one with 5Gb
I never complained about performance ?
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Did you look at my specs?Looking at peoples specs. 8Gb ram or less will not serve to play MP.
I don't even have 8GB , 5GB DDR2 :) of course need more no doubt
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The MP issue seems to be with the Caucasus map , I tried the NTTR map in MP , though it didn't connect the 1st time but on the 2nd try it did and it was good . today I tried to connect the Caucasus map in and after like 10 tries got through.
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Connection issues are not affecting everyone so it is difficult to test and diagnose.
performance issues are being dealt with, again not everyone has them. But the ED team have made many fixes already and more to come.
Hi,
I am actually not complaining about the performance because I got a very old system :
AMD Phenom X4 810
5 GB DDR2
GT630 2GB (planning on upgrading this to RX 550 or the RX 560)
:D
It's just that connecting to the MP servers are an issue , using single player is fast though
:thumbup:
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They should have fixed these performance and MP connection issues before debugging the other things well that's my opinion.
Just waiting to get the RX 560
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I need to connect twice to the MP and only the second time I can get through , the 1st time after a few minutes it puts me back on the main screen. And after this I connect to the MP server
I thought the reason for this could be my low end system but I think quite a few people are facing the same issue.
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Hi,
I am on a very old and low end system and not complaining about performance as I know my system ain't capable.
The issue I have is if I select the MP server nothing happens but I know it's doing a lot of loading and then after a few minutes comes back to the main screen , then again I select the MP server and I get in immediately.
I can fly around for sometime and out of nowhere I will get a didiag.exe error and then dcs will start collecting error info.
Is this low system related ?
I also have many shader errors in the log.
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I thought the use of 3.3v was just manufacturers being cheapskates by making Vcc the same for sensors as the brain/chip. It seems like ff anything, lowering Vcc will make a cheap pot seem even cheaper :p
I recently learned (I think from you?) that Alegro sensors are fine at 3.3v even though they are rated between 4.5 and 5.5vdc though.
Today I tried the same MH481 using an external USB 5v and put a 10k resistor to Vcc so it wouldn't burn , then suddenly it was showing axis moving the moment I had the magnets closer (HDD Magnets) but then I think I burnt all the MH481 lol . but if I don't find the Allegro I will try to get the MH481 working.
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You need linear response HALL - some act just as ON/OFF switch and are not suitable.
This 481 spec's seems good.
Saiteks and maybe Logitech stick's don't use 5v for feed pot' but ~3.3v (a way to mask cheap pot'). How wire HALL in this kind of circuit:
https://sfw.so/1149033286-ustanovka-datchikov-holla-v-dzhoystik.html
The voltage I am getting on the Vcc of the stick is 4.1 , yes it should be 3.3v , I will check on the other Logitech (same model) as to what voltage it is showing.
Wow thanks for those two sites, though Russian but the images Is of great help
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No resistors needed, Alegro sensors will hook up just like the old pots do. The only thing about using them (and any other Hall sensor) is that you can not invert them by swapping Vcc with Ground, that will only short the sensor. If you need reverse action (Cougar throttle needs this) you have to mechanically do it, easily achieved using an RC pushrod to transfer motion. For the Cougar though this is a moot point and the direction the pots hook up is the same as Halls will.
Thanks for the info, I will now look for the Allegro , will let you know how it goes.
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I've been using Alegro 1324 with Cougar with great results. Super easy to work with, has 90deg range of electrical resolution and pretty sensitive so you don't need huge magnets.
I've used them to make my own sealed pots but they work fine as 'naked' sensors too. Here's my post about the pots though: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3674791/diy-sealed-minature-hall-pots-on-the-cheap#Post3674791
I initially used A1302 (180deg electrical range) but have since switched to 1324 due to the 90deg range but make identical pots using the same magnets (5mm x 1mm N52 Neodymium x2)
THanks, can i ask if you need to connect a 10k resistor from Vcc to data pin ? I am using a Logitech attack 3 and everytime the pots gets messed up , the voltage shown on the pots Vcc is 4.1v
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I have tried quite a few Hall Effect Sensors but strangely seem to do anything , getting the Honeywell stuff here in India is a bit difficult and yesterday I got the closet one which is the MH481 and the specs are same like the Honeywell but nothing happens on the axis if magnets are used.
Can anyone suggest ?
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Hi,
I know it's an old thread but I need to get this Hall effect Sensor working, and here in India you don't get all types hence I found the one which matches the Honeywell
This one is a MH481 but whatever I do I see no change in the polarity on the sensor . But if I move the sensor physically the axis changes
I checked the voltage on the Logitech Pot wire and its 4.1v
If anyone can advice ?
Thanks
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Now I have noticed that Threaded Optimization was chewing up fps, but I need to test further.
New Hall Sensor kits
in PC Hardware and Related Software
Posted
bought myself an Arduino Uno R3 , need to connect the sensors now :)