ShadowFrost

I wouldn't use it if I didn't have to, but sometimes ya gotta find the bugs.

Primer wasn't locked

As I don't know which one is correct, but with most aircraft today you've got to be quite careful with videos or any examples really. As there are many variations of parts used on most warbirds today. So just because one video has a different sounding starter doesn't mean it was that way, plenty of aircraft use backdated/newer parts or completely different systems as a replacement for the original system all together. Starters are especially common replacement due to a variety of reasons. (But I do prefer that starter sound more, I just don't know which is accurate to what it would have had in 1940s)

I imagine the addition of water injection will make it slightly less painful.... but only slightly.

I mean, I think there is a simple fix to this. Both a normal trim movement button like it is now, and a finer button to make adjustments. Similar to how there are two types of zoom buttons (normal) and slow. That way you can quickly move the trim in emergencies but also have the ability to adjust quite finely to find the optimum for cruise.

I can agree with the above, trimming the aircraft out for level flight with buttons or small rotation wheels is almost impossible to do because the wheels move too quickly.

I can't say for certain for the R2800. But the R1340s used a similar system that was initially used as an inertial starter then the exact same starter was rewired for direct cranking. (It was rewired due to the inertia start being prone to crack the teeth on the gears over extended use) So it could crank continuously without any changes to the motor. And some T-6s today have the option for both inertial and direct cranking. It doesn't need the windup to start but it sounds cool. Maybe the slight windup allows it to start moving the prop and it has enough power afterward to continue spinning. Obviously, I don't know for certain but that is my experience with a similar engine someone else with more knowledge can probably say. Could be a bug or could be similar to the example with the R1340 starter.

Yeah IRL it works the same way depending on the plumbing. With the R985 and R1340 its about a 3 minute warm up before taxing for a warm/normal day. (Give or take some depending on how hot/cold and any other preflight checks/setting up you want to do) Then at least at my normal airfield, run-up checks are done approximately 5/6 minutes in (3 minute warm-up ~2-3 minute taxi. So by that point it completely ready to go flying.

Well that and maybe this. But I also don't know of any aircraft of similar time frame that have it switched, on rotational trim wheels forward (down) has always been nose down in my experience.

Agreed, at this point I'm under the assumption that the engine systems are either heavily WIP or nonexistent in regards to cooling/heating. Oil temp/pressure barely works and does not work correctly Cylinder head temperature.... Carburetor air temperature doesn't seem to be working either. Except in its most basic form of reading outside air temperature. Air filter and carb heating don't effect the engine at all.

Have you actually tested this? Because my first impression was they didn't do anything. Especially because it just magically becomes within temperature/pressure range for oil. In all my tests at a 1000rpm idle/wait it always took around 10 minutes (some open cooler some closed) before the oil was within limits. Though I do know if you start taxiing sooner than 10 it come within limits quicker. But IRL if you did that before oil is within limits you'd likely damage the engine. (Unless you taxi at 1000rpm like I have you just move slowly)

3 minutes sounds about right as well. That'll generally be how long we wait in other radials IRL before taxiing. Your main concern will be when its a cold weather day you may have to wait a good bit then.

Yeah I was under the impression it was nose heavy and tail heavy as well.

Yeah not sure if its exactly "booster coils" but a similar system that serves the same purpose. Help provide spark while engine RPM are low before mags are completely effective.

Made the same bug post, its due to booster coils or similar being used with the engage switch.

Edit3- I'm an idiot your right. I believe

I don't believe it is but I will double check. Edit- Doesn't apply to intercooler as it starts fully closed so its not possible for it to go left without pressing right first. Edit2- Does apply to intercooler for hotstart (the setting is in the middle) left doesn't work until right is pressed.

Engine oil temperature operating correctly is basically nonexistent. Most likely heavily WIP. Give it a few "2 weeks" ?

I do wonder what the difference in smoke between sitting time frames is. On other radials there is always smoke. But more or less depending on how long its been sitting. I wonder what a good average amount of smoke would be for a start.

To get 52 I do believe you will need to use the turbine. First post is DCS manual procedure. Interconnected means your using boost. Second in P-47 pilot's manual.

You can't close it without pressing to the right once. Pressing the switch left and only left will not move the shutters. You have to press it right then left for it to close on a cold an dark start and hot start. Edit- Also applies to intercooler switch for hot starts, but isn't applicable to cold starts due to starting conditions.

Carburetor heating has no apparent affect on engine RPM or carburetor air temperature. Air filter has no affect on manifold pressure or carburetor air temperature. I tested for a long time, I could not see any noticeable (but small) change in manifold pressure with the air filter in use. (One would imagine this would also lead to a RPM drop but the manual says nothing about it so I'm not considering it currently) *I tested for longer than the tracks show, had to cut replays short due to minimum file size. Edit- I should have probably added neither effects carburetor air temperature either currently as far as I am aware. CarbHeating2.trk CarbFilterExtended.trk

Yeah my bad on the mixture part, its not odd though just how the R1340 works IRL I just got the procedures mixed. I was just looking at whats done differently between mine and your startup and that was the first thing I noticed. Sounds like an oil over-pressure issue with DCS then if it happens more often with cold weather starts.

Can confirm, its just exceptionally quiet. If there is any other noise you won't be able to hear it.

I'll see if I can reproduce as well. But setting the mixture forward after turning blades is odd. I'm used to IRL cranking with mixture forward and then turning the mags on after a few blades for other radials. I'm imagining its either a full pump issue or an oil over pressure issue. How far do your RPMs spike in startup? I ever so slightly crack the throttle like 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch. And startup works fine if not for a long time for oil pressure to drop and oil temps to rise. Edit- I've had a similar surging only once, I think because I went over 1000 RPM while cold which overpressured the engine. That's my theory, will try to reproduce again.