DeadMeat
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If it is out of warranty you could try to repair it yourself. It can be a loose connection in the grip or something broken inside the switch, both of which can be fixed quite easily. It is just 4 tact switches and an smd tact in the bottom wired up in a simple manner. Beep it out with a multi meter to find the problem - a wire or switch broken... If the switch itself is okay then the main board may be cooked and you'd be out of luck -
Good job
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The OTTO catalogue is a handy reference to understand their standard product codes. There's even a MIL cross reference in the back. Data sheets linked on mouser is typically just a page from the catalogue. P1 and P8 will fit the warthog grip but you should study the product code to understand what you're buying. If you look at the data sheet you'll see that those particular P8 buttons have silver casings. First one has a gray button and the other has a black button. Unless you're going for that look specifically, a better look would be P8-141x22C, P8-151x22C or P8-146x22C with the x being anything 1-6 for hobby use.
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The 1TW1-5 is a 3 position toggle switch. The radio hat switch is .. just that. Also called a trim switch. You can pay big money to swap it for a "real" OTTO 5-way switch, try to repair your original switch or ask Thrustmaster for a replacement. They may try to sell you an entire side assemble though. Unless your throttle is covered by warranty still, I'd recommend you try to repair it. It is just tact switches in a housing.
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From what I can tell the difference typically lies in the sealing level, quality testing, spec tolerances and certifications (if any). Specs and feel can be identical. For casual, hobby like use it will not make a difference.
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@ZeeMan90 it doesn't matter how you wire the contacts on the new switch. Just desolder the existing switch and connect the new one. If you're replacing multiple switches at the same time you just have to be careful not to mix them up. You may have to hot glue the OTTO switch in place or use some electricians tape if it doesn't fit snugly.
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Good job. Enjoy the clicking
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According to the data sheet, that's a silver one with a short top. The P8-141321A is in stock at Mouser (black casing, 4 lbf, red button, regular top like the P1)
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Since the large T4 barely fit, the large T5 may not - if the switch body is any taller/wider. Same size = then it should fit.. I don't know what the part number of the real switch is. T5-0010 is in the F-15 (but which variant - and for which grip/switch?) according to parttarget.com so that is a candidate at least. According to OTTO, T5-0018 will give you the correct functionality and hat look, but it is missing the bezel with text. The part number guide you're showing above is for the "mini" trim switches which are a bit smaller than the "large" trim switches you're looking for (think the large trim vs regular hat switches on the A10 grip). The minis are well documented and have meaningful part numbers but the large ones seem to be numbered sequentially or randomly. Documentation is very lackluster and they're generally not available for sale off the shelf.
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Well, I think there's still a few free inputs on the shift registers available, but then you'd have to solder the new CMS push switch straight onto appropriate the chip leg. The standard Cougar firmware is not expecting the extra switch however so that would have to be modded or the base PCB changed to something else supporting MMJoy or something home cooked and then anything's possible That gets complex fast which is why I suggested simply repurposing an existing switch connection.
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Interesting project. It may be possible to do, but it will not be easy. First you'd need to swap the CMS hat switch assembly to a 4-way + push using either a donor part from a Warthog grip, a very expensive commercial or mil spec OTTO hat switch + a custom hat, or 3d print yourself a switch assembly. Then you'd need to electrically connect the push switch. You're short one input in the Cougar, so you could sacrifice another switch connection, like the first trigger switch detent..
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Google translate tells me you're trying to get some toggles out to replace a broken EAC switch... Well to get those switches out you gotta remove the legend plate first from the top. Then you can unscrew the nuts holding the switches in place with a pair of needle nosed pliers. See the pictures earlier in this thread for info. The toggle switches are soldered to a PCB however so you're going to have to desolder the EAC, find a suitable replacement (look on Ebay) and solder that on. Alternatives include buying a full new replacement PCB from thrustmaster to drop in or replace the whole board sort of what I've done here. You can use cheap toggles if you'd like - no need to use mil spec.
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CMS push has two wires, blue being the common wire and black being the push. You can join the blue with the yellow common for the 4-way part of the switch.
