NeoMorph WTH

Damn nice work, Deadman... One of my problems with my pit build is that the US bans export of military parts. Even the fill connector was tough to get. In the end I got one from China. Parts to build an A-10C in the UK means DIY most of the time. Where did you get your hands on 2 legit RWR’s, Deadman? Oh and I have to say I cheated and made my own electromagnetic latching switches for the SAS. I’ve only built one as yet using solenoids and levers. It functions as a momentary switch with the power off... but turn on the power it moves a sliding lever inside the switch and when the switch is flipped it holds it in place with said solenoid. The finished versions just need cutting out on my cnc. The finished switch is pretty large but it is all hidden away under the panel.

There is one difference between the Hog and Viper sticks that it looks like Thrustmaster have omitted. The Viper stick is actually angled forward because it’s a side stick while the Hog stick is more vertical as it’s a traditional floor mounted centre stick. RealSimulator actually sell an adapter for their pressure sensitive base for the Warthog stick to tilt it forward. Here is the stick shown with and without the adapter.

It’s still a beautiful looking plane. Current planes just don’t have any character. I think 50’s to 70’s era will always be my favourite.

The F-14B is Sadly only getting a $15 discount, not a 50% one. What’s the betting it’s to take account of the Top Gun nostalgia trip. Now TG2 has been put back until December due to the Coronavirus I doubt there will be any better discounts on the F-14 all year.... DAMN IT.

Come into landing on the Supercarrier only to find a notice taped on the rear by the LSO.... “COMING IN TOO EARLY - GO AROUND”

Installed the beta and then saw this post... lol. This is 100% true. Oh well, I have the beta now too.

Haven’t got the open beta files... that’s why I couldn’t find it lol. Thanks, will have to download it later.

So I found out about the model viewer for checking out liveries. Great stuff, I thought... I can try making my own. Only when I go to look for the A-10C I can find other aircraft easily enough but the first aircraft in the list is the AJS37... but the A-10C is missing in action. I’ve just spent over an hour trawling through the files... the game itself doesn’t help one bit. The model viewer should automatically list available aircraft in my mind. So where is that darn A-10C edm file... I only tried out the AV8B the other day and I found that in about 2 minutes? HELP!

The real warthog stick is more a flattened out S shape (the throttle levers are similar too) rather than a gooseneck. I’m thinking of getting into welding and making my own this summer (if the lockdown ever ends... like we have been sent to our bedrooms because Gaia isn’t happy about global warming and pollution lol). This is a good shot of the stick... it also shows the Warthog’s manual reversion switch (the yellow lever behind the stick).

Nahhh... should’ve be... WE BREAK FOR WAGNER... (well, until the bugs are fixed)

I think I’m going to get into the habit of using prefix codes like back when I was a programmer lol. It would help with identifying its function in my mind when bug testing. For instance just add “LED_xyz” for LED, “2PS_xyz” for 2 position switch etc. Most professional coders do this... but usually to show what type of variable it is, like integer or floating point etc. I just ended up adding prefixes (or suffixes) to remind me what I was coding in the end of my career because my memory was going by that point. :(

Sorry, misread your post when I saw you mention RS485 in your OP.

I may be wrong here but I wonder if you are getting something called “reflectance” that is interrupting your RS485 signals. Try connecting a 120 ohm resisistor between the ends of your transmit/receive lines at either end. Unterminated lines tend to get wierd EMI signals that bounce back and forward through the line which fogs the real signals. See here for more detail... https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/technical-documents/tutorials/7/763.html

Yeah it sucks. I wanted to try and get an Apollo era 8-ball and they were even available at one point and I was bouncing in my seat until I saw that only US internal sales was possible... and an export ban was in place.

I live in the UK... I understand there is a restriction on exporting military equipment. Can't even buy real Apollo stuff because of that.

You're welcome. You probably noticed a few USB Root hubs. You will have to do it for each one. Sometimes going green is a pain for sim pilots.

Has anyone else found that the HOTAS Warthog throttle is annoying when trying to use the APU Start toggle? The main throttle is in the way. Then I found this on ebay... It clearly shows the throttle body is shifted over and raised up to give clearer access to the toggle switches under the throttle arms. To mod the throttle to make the arms higher is going to be tough because making them higher also increases the throw distance. Part of me wants to do it but the pessimist side of me worries about wrecking the throttle that is apparently touchy at best.

This could be the power management on your USB port shutting the power down. Go to your PC's Control Panel>Device Manager and then go right to the bottom of the list where it says "USB Root Hub". Click on "Properties and then go to the power management tab and untick the box "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". My guess is when the power to the USB is shut down it forgets the switch states.

I've got the Warthog HOTAS and not got the TIR5... and I feel like I'm doing a juggling act going between the HOTAS and using the mouse to look around the cockpit. DEFINITELY ordering the TIR next payday.

33765 Worcestershire UK

The reason the LB board needs to be altered to use an encoder because most encoders use something called "Grey Code" inside to reduce problems with incorrect reading (and yeah, having built cockpits before I've taken a few encoders apart in my time because I wanted to know what is happening). You see when you spin the knob on an encoder fast it can easily get confused. The Leo Bodnar boards I have been the most accurate ones I have come across. If you want to see how hard rotary encoders are, just try wiring one up to an Arduino and looking at the numerous code examples. Some are infinitely better than others and some are really horrendous. But returning to your original post... you are essentially right. Unfortunately to identify which way your are turning the knob starting from any position is what makes rotary encoders so useful... and so frustrating for newbies (I ended up bald lol). Ironically I have found that the Chinese rotary encoders I have gotten off ebay have been really accurate when used with the LB boards. I thought they would drift but they feel good in operation and work flawlessly. Just one question... what do you use encoders for in an A-10C cockpit? I'm only just starting out and need to take stock of what encoders, pots, switches and knobs I'm going to need.

I had similar problems until I got it working every time. 1. UNCHECK the auto sync tickbox. It never works reliably. 2. Dont use the TARGET software that comes with the stick/throttle. It seems to merge the two devices and confuses DCS. 3. Start up DCS: A-10C and go to the controller setup ingame. Press all the buttons and check the axes. They should all auto map themself. Save the config. 4. Next time you play the game just go into the controls system and load the config and press one of the buttons to confirm the rest have loaded. It's a hassle to do it every game launch but you probably spend hours in the cockpit which is a small percentage of time loading the config. Since doing it this way I get consistently mapped buttons and axes. Regarding the blown motherboards in the Throttle I have a feeling it is the power draw for the lighting that is at fault (but don't quote me on that). To light up that box like a christmas tree I would have thought it would have needed an external PSU. Hence why I turned off my green meenies... I'll probably mod in and external lighting circuit that I can link up to my pit's dashboards.