Jump to content

rel4y

Members
  • Posts

    952
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thats weird. Ive answered your all emails within hours, please check your spam folder. The email attached below was sent on 4/6/22 14:45 CET. Ive told you in my first as well as my second answer you need to rotate the sensor by 180 degrees. You also need to bend the cables out of the way, from the pictures I can tell the post has squashed the cables. Best to stick the post through with one cable on the first side and two on the other. It definitely fits and your sensor isnt different than all the others I have sent out. You can temporarily install it in a footbrake to see that it not only technically works, but also in practice. If for some reason your mould is different than mine, then maybe take a file and file off half a mm of the inside of both posts so the blue trimmer fits in between. Its hard to diagnose whats going wrong from afar. I am sorry that you are having trouble installing it. If you really think you cant make it fit, then send it back to me and I will refund you.
  2. There is either left of the shift register pins (red box) a 0.1 in spaced 5P USB connector (says USB above it) or you can unplug the Micro USB and use it like the Cougar Throttle adapter with a Micro USB cable. Both are working the same and you can use whatever is more convenient. For my personal F-22 I bought a 5pin header to USB A cable and attached it to the USB pins. Below is a picture attached, but mine is a bit longer like 2m. You can look for "USB A to 5 pin dupont" eg. PS: I found the F-22 shift reg pinout/ wire color. It seems to be the same as the Cougars. green - GND yellow - DTA orange - SCK red - CS brown - VCC
  3. Here is a picture of the axis layout of the mainboard (green text). Btw, the unlabled pins above the green ones are four more 12 Bit axes. Please ignore the pinout of the expansion bay (red text). The buttons of the grip itself are wired to a TM typical 4021 shift register and only five wires lead out of the grip. I dont know the wire code by heart, but will have a look. These five wires (VCC, GND, SCK, DATA, CS) need to be connected to the shift register inputs (red box).
  4. Aww man, Im sorry! Some days are just worth erasing from memory...
  5. There is a specific order of the six pin cable, but it depends on the version of the USB standalone adapter. I changed the layout on rev 1.3 to an easier all in line config. You can send me an email with your adapter revision and I will send you the corresponding PDF with instructions.
  6. Man, that would be awesome! Ill send out a PM in a minute! Ill answer your email also in a minute! The trhottle mainboard version doesnt matter for the USB standalone adapter, as it has its own voltage regulator. So dont worry about doing any bypass mod.
  7. I am getting along nicely on a quest to a complete & up to spec F-16 HOTAS. While there wasnt much time this week for CAD models, I have gotten pretty far along on the paddle switch. Yes, I know there is already a STEP file of the paddle around, but first of all I dont own the rights to use it and second I will get it more accurate to the original part. Then, finally, I printed a calibration jig for the Cougar stick sensors so I dont have to mount every single sensor in the Cougar base for calibration. Thats quite a few years late, but better late than never! There is also another batch of Cougar stick sensors in the works and I am in the midst of assembling them currently. With the MSLA printer I will also be able to finally complete the MAN RNG sensor for the Cougar and also build an improved ANT v2 sensor in the future. The technology allows for much more precise prints than what was possible with the SLS printed Polyamide parts. Furthermore, I can now offer analog MagREZ sensors based on the standard 34,4mm M3 hole spacing as well as digital TLE5011 ones. The only thing missing for these is a nice SMD stencil to make production easier, as currently the only option is hand soldering... Lastly, I made a nice PTC heater unit to be able to print on my resin printer even in cold temperatures. The case is also MSLA 3D printed and its a project from thingiverse. It turned out well, so I thought I would show off some pics.
  8. As said earlier, I am experimenting with several major design options: Warthog, SergeyPe ALPs and other ALPs. Currently, I am testing several 9-way ALPS automotive switches, the drawback is that these will likely need some diode matrix or an extra IC. Looking at pictures I believe Virpil are using these as well, but without diodes... Not sure how that works. Talking in terms of sophistication though I would argue that the original OTTOs are also just 4 or 5 microswitches, either tactile or not, molded in a nice quality case. The only real difference in functionality is the force required to operate these, which is basically just a question of spring (plate) forces. There is no magic involved with OTTOs and off the shelf ALPs switches will probably outlast the OTTOs in a desktop environment, as they are rated for lower voltages and thus produce less wear on the metal contact parts.
  9. Today I have pretty much finished all the buttons, hatswitches and stuff I will need in the future. First is a picture of the OTTO trigger. I didnt invest too much time into the case, as I most likely wont be needing it. Second picture is the F-16 grip locking nut, which I have reworked and it should be to original specs now. (Huge thanks once again to Korbi!) The third picture displays all the trim hatswitches I have modeled to date. left: F-16 original trim hat, middle: large Mason trim hat, right: OTTO large T4 trim. I dont like the shape of the original large Mason trimmer, but the other two are sexy!
  10. Nice work and really clean looking prints!
  11. Thanks again for helping me out Phil! Yeah, the shift regs will be recognized by any TM base (incl. Warthog) as they are the same 4021 chips as on the TM vanilla shift regs. However, they are currently sold out and I have made a new & improved layout after some valid criticism. The new layout has all pin holes arranged to fit a standard 0.1 in matrix, so it can be stuck on top of eg a breadboard. Further, they now have two M2 mounting holes so they can be screwed onto something. The rework was quite extensive and I will make a batch of the new layout soon. Without context this post seems pretty out of the blue, so let me explain: As I knew of Hempsteads outstanding past CAD work on the F-16, I contacted him for help on the trimhat font via PM. And sure enough he was gracious enough to help me, and you all for that matter, with a good font and even provided his CAD model of the trim! Now, thats awesome! Thank you so much Hemp and great engineering btw! I might have to ask you one or two further questions in the future, so dont be surprised.. Now here is my take on the Mason Trim. While its not 100% finished yet, Ive had enough of it for a few days. The radius of the text is not the same as of the brim and thats correct btw. Modelling text based cut extrusions on a curved surface is an absolute nightmare... This has got to be the 8th plague to scourge mankind! I was so aggravated at one point, that I had to take a walk outside in the rain and cool my temper. Whoever programmed the text feature into CAD software must be an absolute misanthropist of most vicious character! Geez... Here are the pics.
  12. Not sure if you have already done so, but you can contact me under mtwsims @ tutamail . com.
  13. Not sure if thats exactly what you are looking for, but I could offer you this little MMJoy2 board. I made it for my BRD DS base and it supports 6 digital (14 Bit TLE5011) or analog axes (or a mix of both) as well as two shift reg inputs. The two shift reg inputs support the full 128 buttons and all Thrustmaster compatible sticks (4021 shift regs). I have currently uploaded the same firmware I am personally using on my BRD DS with a TM Warthog stick and two digital TLE5011. The PCB is a high quality US made (OSH Park) one with ENIG gold plating. (20€ complete with soldered Arduino and MMJoy2 flashed) You can also have two ready made TLE5011 GMR sensors with 0.1 in header pinout I have left over (hole spacing is the standard 34,4 mm, M3). The same ones I have also uploaded on OSH Park as open source files: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/QlLrcnAk 15€ for both sensors. Dont worry, it actually works. I am kinda well known in the TM Cougar and CH mod scene, here is my thread: These are basically just spare parts from my own builds and I have too much stuff laying around. In case you or anyone else is interested, please email me at mtwsims@tutamail.com. Here are some pictures:
×
×
  • Create New...