gyrovague

I've successfully used some of the HUD element controllers, e.g. foo.element_params = {"FOO_PARAM"} foo.controllers = { {"move_up_down_using_parameter", 0, 0.1 }, } The ones that I currently use are: move_left_right_using_parameter, move_up_down_using_parameter, parameter_in_range, text_using_parameter, opacity_using_parameter The first arg in each controllers entry is the function name (e.g. move_up_down_using_parameter), the second arg is the (0-based) index into the element_params array to determine the param name, and the 3rd arg (and perhaps optional additional args after that?) is used with the function in question (e.g. the 0.1 above scales how much the element moves up and down with the changing value of FOO_PARAM). I found a few others in Cockpitbase.dll that sound useful, but I don't know how to use some of them (others I can guess): change_texture_state_using_parameter, change_color_when_parameter_equal_to_number Anybody have more info on these?

Does your avionics.lua have a make_default_activity call in it? Otherwise your update function won't be called I think, e.g. local update_time_step = 0.05 --20 times per second make_default_activity(update_time_step) Also, I think the 3rd param of that controllers entry should be non-zero, e.g. PitchScaleParam.controllers = {{"move_up_down_using_parameter",0,0.5}} I think that controls the scale between the param value and how much it moves, can also be negative. Hope this helps.

Similarly, I've found that pitch and roll trim seems to be ignored when using vJoy too with 1.5.4 (rudder trim seems to work though). I also have a G27, if I have either (or both) of G27 plugged in or vJoy enabled, then trim doesn't work. To get trim working, I need to disable vJoy (using the "Configure vJoy" app, aka vJoyConf.exe) AND plug out the G27. Note, the trim problem occurs even with no axes or buttons of either of those bound in DCS, just the mere fact that the devices exist seems to be enough to cause the problem. vJoy and G27 worked fine in 1.5.3. (I know one of the ED testers already responded on this thread saying the issue has been logged, but posting anyway in case there is some additional info in my sighting, e.g. the vJoy aspect)

From this post a few weeks ago: I started to suspect there was something wrong, hope your health improves hegykc !

Wow, I didn't realise they could be acquired so cheaply, had assumed they're an order of magnitude more costly than that (never really tried looking though). Any specific make&model in that price range you'd recommend?

Donated!

Just to add a tiny bit of info to this: The SFM (Standard Flight Model) is generic aerodynamic flight model code built in to DCS. The aircraft modules using the SFM basically just supply some tables of constants (quite a large number of constants in total) which the DCS SFM uses as inputs to its flight model. I've seen people on the forums previously saying that SFM modules have a scripted flight behaviour model, which I don't really think is an accurate portrayal. If you want to go EFM, you need to basically conform to the API that is visible in the DCSWorld/API/ExternalFMTemplate/ED_FM_Template directory, and you can make it as complex (or simple) as you like. As Gos said though, you basically start with no flight model at all, most likely even to get a model that only does what the SFM can do will already be a very large undertaking.

Which F-18 grip thread are you referring to? Looks like the last post hegykc made on these forums was 17 March 2016 on a "WTB - Black Mamba Mk.III" thread.

These guys seem to sell a bunch of PS3 eye accessories, such as lenses and filters. This $5 one seems to correspond to the high pass IR acrylic I mentioned in the previous post, and this bandpass filter looks just about perfect for my IR-333 LEDs (but quite pricey at $24). I have a feeling this bandpass one would be a better bet for my "sunlight shining on my face" problem, as that reflected sunlight is sure to contain a lot of IR spectrum too... or I must just get better blinds.

This looks quite decent: http://www.eplastics.com/Plexiglass_Acrylic_Sheet_Infrared_Transmitting and at $33 for a 48"x24" sheet... You can probably get over 4000 filters for PS3 eye size out of that, so about 8c each :) Edit: I bet OP had something like this in mind when he said he could get unlimited quantities of filters for free... this is virtually free (per filter), as long as you can find a way to quickly, easily and efficiently do the cutouts, maybe a drill press with a half inch hole saw attachment or maybe laser cutting or something.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that! My LEDs peak at 940nm, so almost identical to yours. (I used IR333) That Amazon item is quite pricey though, where did you get those other foils from the linked forum post? Did they work well? I love the bottle cap idea! I'm going to do that too, as soon as I find cheap working filter material. I used prestik and cutout of floppy before, not nearly as elegant as the bottle cap. Edit: I see now the foils were a link to somebody else's post.

That was nearly one month ago... also starting to wonder what happened to OP.

I, for one, am very eager to find out what IR pass filter is being used. My homemade headtracker works very well (also with OpenTrack, and PS3eye camera with IR block filter removed), except at a certain time of year and day when the sun shines into the FOV of the camera (and my blinds let through streaks of light). I was not able to find an affordable IR pass filter, as OP said right at the beginning of this thread, floppy and film don't work all that well (block too much IR and don't block enough visible light). OP said he could get 780nm IR pass filters for free in unlimited quantities... I'd settle for $2 for a single one :) My headtracking cap is also wireless, the batteries have so far lasted over 60 hours, and according to calculations they should last over 120 hours. If I change the resistor to make the LEDs brighter, it somewhat improves the performance when sun is shining on me (after changing detection threshold in OpenTrack), but of course will reduce the battery life. I could maybe make another switch to change between bright and non-bright, but it starts becoming a clunky hack then (well, even more of a clunky hack than it is now). A good IR pass filter such as OP describes sounds like an ideal solution... but where to get it?