chief

Oh it most certainly did lol. OK since I am terrible at describing things on text I made a video of what I did. Excuse the mess on the counter and me in my PJ's lol. Oh Fred, I sent you another pm for another script problem I am having. You've been very helpful and thanks a bunch. https://youtu.be/U5k6-FpUlkA

yes but did you put it at the BOTTOM at the base. So in essence there would be TWO white rings. Not sure if people understand what I am explaining. Sorry, I can be bad at that

Was this a known fix? Maybe I'm out of the loop

Hi all. So I was doing that stiction fix. Worked all good and all except I broke the red wire and none of my buttons worked except my trigger button, which when pressed, triggered ALL the buttons on the stick. So a heads up for those that I heard this has happened with people with new out of the crate sticks. TM prob broke a wire when assembling. Not great QA to make sure the stick works before sending it out for retail. ANYWAYS, when I put the stick back together I found that there was even more play in my stick than before the stiction fix. SO I took it apart and just noticed how crummy that white plastic ring is that is screwed to the round drum that presses down on the gimbal. It was totally warped, probably from absorption of the grease. SO for S&G I thought I would fabricate another one. SO using a plaxiglass type material that didn't worked cause it cracked when drilling I finally used this flexible yet sturdy big sheet that I bought at the pro hockey life. was MUCH better to work with. After a couple hours of do that I thought I created a masterpiece (probably was the beer thinking that). So After fitting and sanding and fitting and sanding a bunch of times I finally got it to fit nicely. Was excited to possibly see that the centering slack might be reduced. Anyways turns out it may have put it back to pre stiction condition but slack was still there. I was determined to figure out how to reduce this play. After taking it apart and partially putting it back together a bunch of times testing things (and a couple more beer) I think I may have found the issue that so many have. So the big spring, the black circular pipe that encases the drum, and the metal disc that pushes the drum down are all put aside, what I noticed that with the drum (the one that has the white ring screwed to it) when placed on the gimbal and compressed down on the 4 springs as far as it can go STILL sit about 1/8 ob the base of the stick. So I thought, what if I put something on the base of the stick to fill this gap so the drum ,when compressed, sits perfectly flat on something. The question was, what something am I going to use? Hey I have the original white plastic ring that I replaced with my fabricated one just sitting there. SO I took the drum off, took the 4 springs sitting on the 4 posts off, placed the original white plastic ring on the bottom then reassembled the whole stick and voila! The play at centre COMPLETELY gone. COMPLETELY!! Now mind you it IS easy to move the stick off centre and thats because the grip is sooo heavy. I bet Wags F18 one that I believe is made of ABS feels better being so much lighter. Time will tell. Anyways, I didn't know if anyone ever tried this so I thought I would share it in case. If you wanted to try maybe order another white ring from TM or fabricate one yourself. Take care all! "Jake"

Balaton, I've been getting the same nvwgf2umx.dll crash too. LOTS lately. I see NVIDIA just released 398.36 today. Hopefully have better luck

WHAT? The seat and everything was 30% off? If so, f### I missed it!!!

Ahhh gotcha. Thx bud!

Hey bud. I’m looking on their site for the tm mount you’re talking about but can’t find it. Would you have a link? Thx!

Yeah that’s the only reason why we ever do it. Either an APU is u/s or the apu bleed is u/s but something of the nature. On the 67 we need 60% n1 to crossbleed which isn’t much. If I remember correctly we needed a bit higher on the 37. Something like 70% n1.

Unless it is acting like an RMI then it will point to a VOR station

I reported this about the mk83. but now i cant select the mk82. what am i doing wrong?

ok I see i had aim 9 selected even though I don't have aim 9. When I go to guns it works fine. SHouldn't it work anyway no matter what weapon you have selected?

So I can get it to go into ACM mode and its defaulted to boresight. Now if I press AFT on the sensor control switch it still stays in boresight mode. Shouldn't it go into vertical acquisition mode and see 2 vertical lines on the HUD?

ahhh gotcha. thx

I tried a number of things but can't seem to get the CCIP mode to stay. It immediately pops into auto. Any ideas? thanks!

So I loaded up some mk83's and for some reason I can not select them on my stores page to drop. any ideas?

Ok gekoiq, I'll check that thanks

You have to have the finger lifts up before you get to full military power then it will go to full burner. You can't go fill throttle then just press 9+0. It won't do anything

I've definitely heard the roll right and left

Maybe i'm just being blind but is there not bind for increasing/decreasing the radar range without having to actually push the appropriate LSK on the display?

Hey guys. For those that are wondering the solution to doing this for who are using the TM here is the script you wanna use. MapKey(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+END);//CUT LEFT ENGINE MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME);//IDLE LEFT ENGINE MapKey(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+END);//CUT RIGHT ENGINE MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME);//IDLE RIGHT ENGINE

This thing has auto throttle? How do you engage that?

As suspected all the servers are just loaded up with F18's and no other planes being used. Whats the matter with the Harrier? That plane is awesome! Oh well back to single player

ahh gotcha. Ok yeah I never took into account you remove the base.

Thanks rainmaker. I took a boo at it. I think it's going to require a chair with a space cut out between the legs though.