Thanks for the support!
In regards to a level shifter, you actually don't need to use anything; a 5V Arduino will not damage anything if used correctly. The reason is that the I2C protocol is all powered by the master device (the throttle itself in this case) and pulled up to 3.3V with pull-up resistors, all the slave device does is pull the lines low (connect to ground), so it being capable of a 5V output won’t damage anything directly as it never output 5V in normal operation. The problem is a normal Arduino would need its own external 5V power supply, which if not implemented correctly could damage the throttle. It would also mean more wires coming out of the throttle, which is what we are trying to avoid in the first place.
I actually used a normal Arduino Uno running at 5V for my first experiments which worked fine, as long as you understand exactly what you‘re doing. I may have overstated the risks slightly in the Instructable but better safe than sorry when it comes to multi $100 hardware I think.
The mouse sensors Sokol1_br suggested would work, they are basically identical to a trackpoint sensor, and I can get them for not much at Digi-key
https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en/potentiometers-variable-resistors/joystick-potentiometers/82?k=MicroJoystick
But they are bigger than ideal to be easily fitted. I am mostly looking at this as something that could easily be fitted by someone who didn’t want to modify anything and just wanted to buy a drop in replacement type sensor, so size it quite important, but something to take a closer look at.
The reason for not wanting a larger slew deflection is quite simple, the real throttle has no deflection at all. It’s all based on force, kind of like a mini F16 sidestick. The problem this gives us is that there is basically no clearance between the slew sensor and the coolie hat on the back of the throttle. Meaning even using something like an Xbox thumb stick doesn’t really work, as it just hits the coolie hat when it moves, which is a real shame because they aren’t exactly hard to get.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/joystick-switches/1239578/ (a little cheaper than the DACO)
Note the RKJXL series are only momentary switches, not any sort of joystick. They are nice to use as normal hat switches though.
Using a proper force stick is actually really nice, it’s nothing like the original sensor, really fine and precise control, it really is a dream to slew the TGP around (also make Mav’s SO MUCH BETTER). The problem with the original sensor is that it has such a weak spring and moves such a small amount it’s hardly any better than just using a hat switch, you can’t really get any values between fully on and off, nothing like the proper sensor.
As you can probably tell I’ve been thinking about all this probably far too much over the last few weeks (good to have a project though eh?) Another forum member also bought the other Chinook grip off of eBay, and has got the sensor out of it. I’ve sent him an adapter board like the one I made for myself, so hopefully we should have some independent feedback soon on that :)
I think the next step should be to try and get one of the Xbox-style ALPS analog sticks working and in some sort of proper 3d printed mount. That would be a good proof of concept to start selling a few of these.
All this makes me wonder what Thrustmaster has planned for the F18 Hotas throttle, if they are ever actually making one.