LucShep

I'll it say again - that's what I'd do (cut/paste way). But if you feel uninstall then reinstall in the new drive is simpler and safer, then go for that instead. Do what is easier for you. If all went well, yes that is it. You'll be done and ready to go. In some rare cases, files can get corrupted (sometimes happens with large file transfers). If an error does happen during the start of DCS, or during the gameplay, then you may want to run a DCS cleanup/repair. For that, if necessary, then follow this tutorial in the official DCS website: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/support/faq/repair/ I'll quote: And if the very worst happens (panic, the game gone kaput!!) then you can always directly contact the support from ED: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/support/ They're a helpful bunch in my experience.

Nah, don't copy the saved games folder. Leave that one as it is in your Corsair NVME. You only need to move the DCS installation (yeah, the big one!) to the new NVME drive. You can do this either by the "cut/paste" way (to move it from one drive to the other), or to uninstall DCS and reinstall it on the new drive. One way or the other, do what is easier for you. And either way, you will not lose save games and configurations. Some people prefer to uninstall DCS and reinstall it all over again on the new drive. It's simpler, but it does take longer time because it has to download all the files. Personally, I just go with what I'm accustomated with - I'd go the "cut/paste" route. But it may be complicated for some people. This is how I'd do it:

Nice, you're already inspecting territory for the soon to be coming procedure.! hehe That "disc 0 partition 1" with 499MB that you see there is the EFI system partition, also known as "Boot Drive" (more like "boot partition", actually). That's required for Windows to start. The EFI system partition is a partition on your main disk that is used by computers adhering to the Unified Extensible Firmware Interface (UEFI). Your motherboard uses UEFI, and that EFI Partition is an interface for the computer to boot Windows off of. It's like a step taken, before it runs the Windows partition. It's really small as you can see (499MB) but, basically, without that partition your computer wouldn't know how to boot Windows. To resume.... everything is absolutely fine there in your Corsair NVME.

We're going off-topic, and I'm afraid this is going to cause confusion (pardon the long post) but, I guess, it's worth commenting for general knowledge (if any interest). There is a huge misconception regarding "Dram-less" NVME drives. This is due to the stigma of ultra-budget (and older) QLC "Dram-less" drives that have flooded the market. Which noone wants (nor should get) because those NVME drives get to HDD write speeds when heavily loaded. I'd certainly agree that those are crap, they're awful NVME drives. But noone has recommended those in here (I certainly didn't). There are great quality and really fast Gen4 "Dram-less" drives which are TLC based, and they are well worth the attention. For example, the WD SN770 and the newer LEXAR NM790 (among others) are very highly praised (rightly so), because they are competitive even if put against the best models with DRAM cache, and are available at far more affordable prices. And while "Dram-less", these drives do have their own cache, it simply isn't physical (and hence is cheaper!) -> SLC cache. This is, just like DRAM cache, to keep higher speed at continuous data transfers, in this case up to a certain limit (270GB in the case of the LEXAR NM790 4TB), it's only after hitting such limit that speeds decrease. It may look like 270GB is small cache (when taking 4TB into account) but it's not, it's still big enough for nearly all workloads. And there is no game or sim in current or upcoming exhistence that can even reach that limit, not even close! When the data burst is stopped, the (SLC) cache is refreshed, and therefore available again. Which is exactly the process that always happens with whatever sim/game, because the files ingame (in any game or sim) are loaded in bursts, not in a single continuous (i.e, sustained) transfer. All this to say: these are perfect as a second NVME drive (or third, or fourth) for gaming systems and real world usage. It's exactly their purpose, what they were designed for. Now, if you're going to use only one single NVME in your system, or if you're the type of user that is into really heavy (sustained) read/write workloads then, sure, get the more expensive drive with big physical DRAM cache. That's what makes sense then - it's what they're designed for, and are better for it. Otherwise, if you're adding another NVME drive to your system just for gaming purposes (even most demanding ones), it's not worth paying extra for one of these, and I don't care what ubber gaming rig it is for. It's paying more for something that, while valid for the specs, is extremely unlikely to ever provide benefits for anyone's gaming experience. Which also applies (even more!) to latest Gen5 drives (PCIe 5.0 x4). They're meant for enthusiasts and professional applications (where they can make some difference) where "time VS cost" can be beneficial to business, even at such prices. No game today sees any advantage whatsoever with NVME Gen5 drives, and the biggest fool is the one buying a separate Gen5 drive today thinking his gaming experiences will benefit with it, now or in near future, when they're still double the price(!!) and run really hot (they all surpass 75ºC when loaded). Compromises in everything are just so big with Gen5 drives, that these are, for now, rightfully reknowned as the absolute "emperor's new clothes" on a gaming system. BTW, the "future proof" argument for Gen5 drives doesn't apply to gaming either (it's like snake oil). And it won't really differ in coming years, the gaming industry has pretty much stagnated, generally still in (somewhat of) an ongoing crisis. Direct Storage on PC hasn't been getting much traction, it will be years before it's even relevant. 99% of newer games are GPU starved, and will remain so. Not drive, not RAM, not CPU limited (provided you have a decent well rounded system, that is), no matter if 2D or VR. The NVME market is then about having different products for specific purposes and use cases. Like the WD SN770 before it, the LEXAR NM790 is a "budget" NVME drive for no other fact that it's "Dram-less". The lower prices compared to far more expensive drives with physical DRAM cache (like the WD SN850X and SAMSUNG 990PRO), comes down to that. No physical memory, no added cost of production and lower final price. Therefore, the lower price of the mentioned quality "Dram-less" drives (WD SN770 and LEXAR NM790) doesn't have anything to do with shortcuts, bad construction or bad quality, it has everything to do with specific use case. Know what is right for you before opening your wallet, if the money difference gets to be important. That is all. EDIT: reviews and "versus" benchmarks of the LEXAR NM790 4TB: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/lexar-nm790-4-tb/16.html https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lexar-nm790-ssd-review/2 https://www.kitguru.net/components/ssd-drives/simon-crisp/lexar-nm790-4tb-ssd-review/4/ https://www.pcmag.com/reviews/lexar-nm790 https://www.servethehome.com/lexar-nm790-4tb-ssd-review/ https://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/lexar-nm790/ https://thepcenthusiast.com/lexar-nm790-m-2-ssd-4tb-review/ https://www.dexerto.com/tech/lexar-nm790-4tb-review-2364095/

For games, and even intensive ones like DCS, you will not notice difference in performance or behaviour per se. The difference between WD SN850X and LEXAR NM790 is mainly down to the internal memory, which the SN850X does have, and the NM790 does not ("dram-less"). So, the SN850X has its own dedicated DRAM to use, while the NM790 will instead use the system's RAM if and when needed. Without going too far and complicated, it's useful to have internal memory on the NVME to maintain very long and heavy read+write transfers consistently fast for longer periods. For example, for video conversion, and other professional inclined aplications that are very heavy drive data workloads (think, for instances, youtube content creators, etc). But, let's be real, even demanding games like DCS are only going to intermittently read files, ocasionally writting others, in bursts from the drive. And, as constant as that seems to us when in the game, and as big as some files are, for super fast "dram-less" drives like the NM790 that is "peanuts", really. And no, it won't "eat", choke or impair your system RAM at all (you won't even notice it). Doesn't change the fact that the SN850X is better for having its own memory though. To resume..... If this would be the only NVME in your system with Windows (etc) together with games, or frequently doing heavy read+write transfers, then I'd recommend the SN850X. If this is an additional NVME, for games and etc, differences won't be noticed at all (either will be awesome for this), then I'd say to save the money and get the NM790.

If it's an additional NVME drive just for games and archives, then I'd say to have a look on the LEXAR NM790 4TB (£234,00). This is a really fast drive that is more affordable simply because it's dram-less (i.e, no internal memory, it uses the system's), which makes no difference for whatever sims/games. https://www.scan.co.uk/products/4tb-lexar-nm790-ssd-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-3d-nvme-ssd-tlc-7400mb-s-read-6500mb-s-write-pc-ps5 But if you want one that is among the bestest and fastest NVMEs out there, with internal memory, then it's hard to go wrong with the well proven WD SN850X 4TB (£290,00): https://www.scan.co.uk/products/4tb-wd-black-sn850x-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-ssd-7300mb-s-read-6600mb-s-write-pc-ps5 I also have a Corsair MP600 ProXT 2TB and, while I have no complaints (I like it a lot), there are other models from other brands that are also Gen4 (PCIe 4.0 x4) and just as fast (if not more) and also reliable, which you can buy with confidence. Such as those two I just mentioned. No need to get Corsair again, really.

I see that you have an ASUS TUF B650+ motherboard, and you also have a nice and fat RTX4090 graphics-card. That's a nice setup there, congrats. You can install the new additional NVME without removing the graphics-card, but it may be a bit tight for your hands, in regards to space, to handle things (see picture below). If it is too tight for you to do the work, then yes remove the graphics-card before placing the new NVME drive. NOTE: if you do remove it, once refitting it make sure the cable on the graphics-card is well plugged in, completely inserted and tight. That is a sensitive piece. The whole process is done in two phases, 1) the physical installation of the drive and 2) the activation of the new drive on Windows. I'll leave two videos below, hoping it makes sense and is easy enough to understand (which it is, you'll see). This first video is a step-by-step guide on the whole process, it's a "How to Install and Activate a Second NVME Drive on a Windows 11 PC" (note, it's the same on Windows 10). Nice and simple, good to learn. But please notice that his motherboard is not same as yours. You can ignore the part of this video where he lays and tighten screws to attach the NVME, as you won't need that (yours will be as on video below of the guy with the gloves). Now this second video is the installation of the new NVME in a fairly similar motherboard to yours. Please note that he's installing it on the most upper slot (that one in yours should be already populated), but it's the same procedure on the lowest slots (in the picture you took), which is where you'll want to install that new second NVME. With the heatsink cover removed there in the lowest slots, you'll see that there's two NVME slots to chose - one or the other doesn't matter, both work the same. And that's it, should be pretty much the same on your motherboard. And yes, ignore the gloves, you won't need them. Lastly, if you can afford it, then I'd say to get a 4TB. But it's still very expensive (at about $340 +/-), hence why it's usually not recomended to go above 2TB (at about $170). You don't need that much space (and 2TB is still a lot of space!) but it's nice to have so much of it and not worrying about it for years, especially on supper dupper fast NVMEs, for huge size modules of DCS and other games/sims installed on the same drive. That is up to you, it's your call.

I've been following the Rhino and FFBeast with great curiosity but, yes, it is "boutique" material for a different type of customer. It is the "large scale" business that can provoque popularity of such products, for a much larger userbase. It has been many years since the MS SW FF2 and Logi G940, and I had nearly lost hope for modern and better iterations, from the usual manufacturers in the business. Watching this announcement from Moza felt like "yep... it has begun". And now the WinWing image above posted by @Biggus. Looks awfully similar to the Moza in a strangely coincidental time period (maybe a partnership?). If this succeeds - which I think it will - I can't believe brands like Thrustmaster will pass on the chance to also get into it (they produce FFB wheels, won't be unfamiliar tech). With all the others following suite.

Understood. Gosh, you're in for a treat! Like going from a decrepit skoda to a brand new ferrari.

Already some first impressions on youtube..... If the author is reading these forums, nicely done. Many thanks for doing it so soon. Looking forward for indepth reviews (want to see TheNOOBIFIER1337 doing it).

Is that a flight stick with FFB??

Has said, the original build is good, just not perfect. Honestly, I think you have already enough info to make decisions, and try to negotiate changes with the seller for that original build. So let's see where it could be better: 64GB of RAM, instead of 32GB. This is important. It doesn't matter if it's 6000 CL30, 6000 CL32 or 6000 CL36, or if it's a kit of two or four sticks (though you already know where I stand in that matter), difference is too little to be worried about. What you need is to ensure that it is rock-solid stable, for a reliable system. Needs an equally good motherboard that has WiFi support features, since you mentioned you'll use wireless internet (some suggestions already posted in here). RTX4070 12GB is "good enough" for 1440P. But it has been replaced by the newer and better RTX4070 Super 12GB, which has similar price. There's also the RTX4070Ti Super 16GB (which replaced the RTX4070Ti 12GB), far more expensive, but more potent and has more VRAM, better for DCS in high settings. Either way, you already know which models to avoid. Lastly, and regarding the 1440P monitor. Allow me some suggestions, based on personal experience. First, the size. I think a good 16:9 monitor with 32'' screen size is a nice size for flight-sims with a single-screen, and the biggest you can go for native 1440P resolution. Second, the panel type. I'd say to go for IPS, and not VA or TN. Yes, there are also OLED monitors now, but they're all still too expensive, and still susceptible to burn-in. Price to performance, a good IPS panel is the better choice for DCS, because of the clarity in motion (motion handling), very important especially if using head-tracking (TrackIR, etc) and for when you need to focus on something at the same time that you are maneuvering (like you would in real life). You'll notice it, for example, in BFM, or over forests, or simply focusing on objects while in movement. It's in these situations where a good IPS panel just feels more natural (and no ghosting or motion-blur issues) when compared to VA or TN panels. I've briefly tested and can recommend the Asus TUF VG32AQL1A, the LG 32GP850, the LG 32GP750 (these are G-Sync), and the Gigabyte M32Q (this is FreeSync). These are 32'' 1440P IPS monitors that are good for flight-sims, and are very reasonably priced (between 270,00 €ur and 400,00 €ur, depending on region and availability).

I agree with @mikko.1842, no longer worth buying a new (expensive) system equiped with RTX3070Ti 8GB (previous generation, of 2020!). DCS can (and will) use over 10GB right from the start, even at 1080P. Then the odd B760 motherboard and "K" CPU combo, and also that DeepCool PF700 80+ PSU "Tier-C" model (which is short on capacity and rating) should not be used on higher(ish)-end gaming systems... Resuming: avoid it. The original system that you have listed in your first post is not perfect but, no doubt, is far more capable for DCS at 1440P.

oh boy..... Are you sure the other builder is not going to be a better alternative? Personally, I'd favor a motherboard model with own WiFi support features from factory. All of these motherboards that I'll list below have a wireless communication module (WiFi 6E) and are, in my opinion, the best choices for their price range. B650 motherboard with WiFi 6E. These are of same segment and identical price to the ASRock B650 Pro RS in your list. B650 motherboards don't have support for PCIe5.0 in main PCIe slot. They may or may not have support for one Gen5 NVME drive. Hence the lower price. This makes no difference for the hardware that you intend to use now. But in the near future GPUs will use it. And you may also wish to get a Gen5 NVME SSD in the future... MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WIFI (215,00 €ur +/-) Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX V2 (225,00 €ur +/-) B650E motherboard with WiFi 6E. These are more refined but also more expensive. B650E motherboards have PCIe5.0 support in main PCIe slot, along with the support for Gen5 NVME SSD. ASRock B650E PG Riptide WiFi (250,00 €ur +/-) ASRock B650E Steel Legend WiFi (260,00 €ur +/-) ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi (280,00 €ur +/-)

And he is not wrong. About the 3080Ti 12GB, better forget it. It may be a little bit faster than 4070 but it's now older generation, consumes a lot more power, runs much hotter, and price is inflated. Between the RTX4070 12GB and the newer RTX4070 Super 12GB (which is better) there's about 15% difference in performance, price should reflect that. The RTX4070Ti Super 16GB is far more expensive, but it's yet another 15% faster than 4070S (so, over 30% faster than the 4070) and has 16GB of VRAM, much better for DCS. I think it's worth getting the 4070Ti Super 16GB if you have the budget. Most manufacturer models are generally good, but some should be avoided because of mediocre cooling design (regardless of being 4070/Super, or 4070Ti Super). EDIT: If you're interested in some sort of "comparison/examination" between manufacturer models, these videos may be worth a look: www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYRPRARMcf8 www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5b2YF9POP4 To resume, it's better to avoid the lower tier models (red and orange, "C" and "F") in the list in there at the end of those videos.

Yep, RX 7900XT runs pretty hot, but responds well to undervolting - this video tutorial may interest you: youtube.com/watch?v=2aCCaIx5Kk0&t=250s

Which is an Intel XMP based kit. It's not like it's a major problem but, IMO, it's a sign the seller could have done better. I don't think that four sticks of that RAM are guaranteed to work without problems on AM5. It's a gamble (or risk) that may or may not be worth taking, when later adding two more sticks... But hey it's your money and your rig, it's your call. I'll stick to a previous point, which others here already pointed out as well - DCS is a friggin hog on RAM. You mentioned you play DCS in Multiplayer, 32GB will definitely become short in Multiplayer, even with solutions to help like a largely increased pagefile. Which means you'll want 64GB of RAM sooner rather than later, that is certain. If you're spending good money on a brand new gaming PC, for DCS, then it makes all the sense to go for 64GB RAM right away. The best 64GB kits for AM5 platform and 7000 CPUs are 64GB (2x 32GB) 6000 CL30. It makes sense to get one because price should not be a problem if compared to other 64GB kits with higher latency and/or slower speeds. But then I have no idea how are the prices and stock of RAM kits in Russia. My advice is to contact the seller. Enquire about a possible change in the memory on that system (which they should test before delivering!) according to your wishes, for 64GB total (not 32GB), then make a deal. I do agree that you should make sure the seller stands behind what they sell (absolutely) so that you are assisted by them in case any problem arises.

Nice deal, enjoy!

That's the part I don't get and can't agree with. At least not where I live and with what I'm seeing (I suspect rest of Europe same as well, haven't checked). The few 6000 CL36 AMD EXPO kits that I see available are all 32GB (2x16GB) and none is below 145,00€. To make 64GB that would require then two of those kits. So, for 64GB (4x16GB) DDR5 6000 CL36 it would be then 290,00€(+). ....and that's counting on your word that they will actually run with just AMD EXPO profile loaded. The 6000 CL30 AMD EXPO kits that I see available, among them are various 64GB (2x32GB) and all of them seem to be between 235,00€ and 275,00€. So not only slightly better, but also slightly more affordable. Plus, 2x sticks of RAM mean less power draw and heat in the system than 4x sticks of RAM. Which, as small as it may be, is also a practical advantage for same ammount of total capacity and similar performance. My question now is.... Is there any performance gain for AM5 if using 4x sticks of RAM (versus 2x) that I never seen, heard or read about? Because I honestly can't see any benefits with it.

I'll give you this... I'm far more accustomated with Intel based systems than AMD ones. And for sure I don't know it all. I wasn't even aware (and still not aware) that there's any 6000 "CL non-30" AMD EXPO kit that is 4*16GB modules like the one you describe. But if you can show what kits are those (to see price/performance) it's appreciated, because I got no info for such thing (unless those are Intel XMP based kits?). I have no idea what's bigger in the US outside of Newegg and MicroCenter, and don't even know what's going on those lately. I focus at national level (Portugal) because that's where I get all my HW for rigs (other than Amazon Spain) and trends here follow whatever goes up in big old Europe, for HW parts and prices. I don't have sales figures to share other than word in conversations from people working/owning stores, where I get parts from for many years now. Basically, what they tell me is that, for high-end AM5 rigs they build, they don't skimp much on quality anymore (RAM, etc), because the pandemic-era festival with rip-offs and price gouging has ended, people got knowledged on what's what during the period, business tends to run thin and competicion exhists. This subject comes up quite often, also in tech communities with which I participate also for many years. If that doesn't mean anything, that's okay (I don't care). Around here, no store that I'm accustomated with is even using other 6000Mhz RAM for AM5 that is not CL30 for their system configurators. For AMD EXPO kits, it's either 6000 C30 or the cheaper 5600 C36 and 5200 C40 lately. Nothing else gets the attention, it seems. Could be lack of stock of different modules? Or people simply overlooking those other kits? I have no idea, but it is what it is. Saw similar things happening with UK's SCAN (or was it Overclockers?) not too long ago. You've been around for so long and are so successful, I don't know.... it shouldn't be much trouble asking the people you get parts from, "how many kits of 6000 CL30 are being sold, versus everything else, for AM5 (AMD Expo)?" Heck, make a pole in these forums, ask people what RAM they've bought, or intend to buy, for their AM5 system?

You keep assuming things, deluded. I already justified myself well enough in the previous two posts, take of it what you will. The 6000 CL30, specifically that latency timing, came up well before you even started whining about my post. Pay attention. Why would I even recommend that specific kit in the first place then? 6000 CL30 is what everybody is selling in bundles and in whole systems of AM5, because it's what's more ready available and is the best for AM5 "out-of-the-box", period. Regarded as slighly better and faster, as it's either SK Hynix M-Die or A-Die, slightly superior to Samsung B-Die (seen in 6000 CL36 and CL40) this time around, maybe because it's flexible, more tunable to extract a little bit more performance (OC), if ever inclined, while sold at similar price. Call it assumption, whatever, it's very likely what the OP will end up getting anyway. Would you feel the difference between CL30 and CL36 for AM5 on a propper DDR5 blind test? Probably not. Would you feel the difference between a 7800X3D and 14700K on a propper CPU blind test? Probably not. Would you feel the difference between a Crucial T700 and a WD SN850X on a propper NVME blind test? Probably not. ..... if the slightly faster/better one is also priced so similarly, why wouldn't you go for it?

Ask yourself this question... Do you want a very familiar experience to what you have had with the RTX2070S, usage wise, but better and with a LOT more performance? If so, get the RTX 4070Ti Super 16GB. Do you feel like changing to something different, with no problems to quickly adapt to unfamiliar things? If so, the RX 7900XT 20GB may be right for you. Both are really good GPUs, they're more or less equivalent, and any of the two will be awesome for DCS at 1440P (even 4K). The 4070Ti Super has GDDR6X, which is faster memory. But it has less of it as you may have noticed (16GB versus 20GB GDDR6 of the RX 7900XT). It does have lower power consumption and also generally runs cooler than the RX7900XT. But none of this is a deal breaker, what I'd say is to pay attention to what model you get, whichever way you decide to go (and promotions do happen). If you're in the US, search them in https://pcpartpicker.com/ Among so much information around, there's a fella that condenses info and details between models, to resume data for direct comparisons. I personally like the format he has chosen to provide it. May be worth a glance before pulling the trigger: (note: a great deal of info on these older 4070Ti 12GB models still applies to the newer 4070Ti Super 16GB model replacements)

No it's not inaccurate. And no, it's not wrong. You mentioned running 4x16GB DDR5 sticks on AM5, and I quote "at rated EXPO speed". (but no mention of timings heh) At least on four AM5 systems according to you, and I quote "three are B650E-F models, my own desktop is a B670E-F ROG Strix Gaming" ? (a typo surely, that last one must be an X670E-F) AFAIK, no manufacturer sells 4x16GB AMD EXPO kits. Which means then, you're using two of the same kit mixed, most likely. Neither are you using factory DDR5 6000 CL30 EXPO profile (which was my initial point), perhaps 6000 CL36 is what you're using as a base? If it's 4x sticks at 6000Mhz on AM5, then my bet is that you're probably running Hynix M-die based kits (higher tolerance especially on timings) with custom values for higher latency (perhaps CL38?) and relaxed timings, for stability, probably with adjusted/added voltages to it as well. Am I close enough? Which then does not disprove my point. And is also of no interest to this thread. Like, at all. I too overclock RAM, adjust memory speeds, timings and voltages too, but that is not something your regular DCS user in these forums will do. Nor should it be recommended. Not in this sort of threads. A regular user in these forum threads will likely want to put the RAM sticks, run the factory profile of RAM (AMD EXPO in this case) and be done and over with it. That is extremely unlikely to happen when adding 2 more sticks of 6000 CL30 DDR5 to the ones already in there, which is what most of these AM5 systems are being sold with. So, a bad experience later then when adding another of that same kit to increase capacity. With 2 sticks of 6000 CL30 DDR5, shouldn't be a problem (and recommended) so better get all the ammount you invision in that format. With 4 sticks of 5600 CL40 DDR5 it usually isn't a problem either (but it's noticeably slower). That was my initial point, also in my 1st reply to you, which still remains and is not wrong.

Oh sure, your own replies to me are always respectful and in good faith. Right. There's a simple fact you ignored, which would be simple to understand from my initial post - let me help you.... read the initial post, there's a list. In it says "32GB 6000MHz" DDR5 6000Mhz CL30 (AMD EXPO) has been the best memory for Ryzen 7000 series. And it's what 99% of people are using for brand new systems with 7800X3D (like the OP is doing). That "32GB 6000MHz" in the OT is going to be CL30, pretty sure about it. OP already mentioned that he'd be tempted to add another 32GB of the same(?) memory, to get 64GB total capacity like he has mentioned in this thread. Next thing, all sorts of troubles will happen, because 6000 CL30 is (AFAIK, and my experience) extremely problematic with 4x RAM modules, on AM5. That's why I replied "AM5 does not play well with 4 sticks of RAM (one of the downsides of this platform). You should avoid it because, then, it almost surely will be unable to run the memory at EXPO profile (the XMP equivalent for AMD). So, better keep it at 2 sticks of RAM only for AM5." And followed by a 2x32 GB kit recomendation. Once again. "32GB 6000MHz". The 4 sticks of RAM I mentioned there is if adding another kit of that memory. The EXPO I mentioned there, initially, is the EXPO of that memory. Which is pretty much alright to conclude it's 6000 CL30, right? The fact that it can run with a completely different kit of 4 modules and/or with slower speed and higher latency, is neither here nor there. Still not clear enough? Why the heck would you derail a thread just to pick completely unrelated facts that have nothing to do with it? Maybe that's your "go to", for whatever purposes? Someone mentioned that I should add you to the ignore list, and I found it too drastic. But perhaps it is better for both of us and our peers as well.

Nice word salad, as we say it around here. Interpreting facts that are not there, to create an argument with points that noone even aproached, perhaps to invigorate your "professionalism" (huh?), business and customers, has been a speciality of yours, considering the very same tone and way you aproach your peers in this forum, on other threads that you derailed before as well. But hey narcissism can be treated, so not all is lost for you yet..