LucShep

Nice deal, enjoy!

That's the part I don't get and can't agree with. At least not where I live and with what I'm seeing (I suspect rest of Europe same as well, haven't checked). The few 6000 CL36 AMD EXPO kits that I see available are all 32GB (2x16GB) and none is below 145,00€. To make 64GB that would require then two of those kits. So, for 64GB (4x16GB) DDR5 6000 CL36 it would be then 290,00€(+). ....and that's counting on your word that they will actually run with just AMD EXPO profile loaded. The 6000 CL30 AMD EXPO kits that I see available, among them are various 64GB (2x32GB) and all of them seem to be between 235,00€ and 275,00€. So not only slightly better, but also slightly more affordable. Plus, 2x sticks of RAM mean less power draw and heat in the system than 4x sticks of RAM. Which, as small as it may be, is also a practical advantage for same ammount of total capacity and similar performance. My question now is.... Is there any performance gain for AM5 if using 4x sticks of RAM (versus 2x) that I never seen, heard or read about? Because I honestly can't see any benefits with it.

I'll give you this... I'm far more accustomated with Intel based systems than AMD ones. And for sure I don't know it all. I wasn't even aware (and still not aware) that there's any 6000 "CL non-30" AMD EXPO kit that is 4*16GB modules like the one you describe. But if you can show what kits are those (to see price/performance) it's appreciated, because I got no info for such thing (unless those are Intel XMP based kits?). I have no idea what's bigger in the US outside of Newegg and MicroCenter, and don't even know what's going on those lately. I focus at national level (Portugal) because that's where I get all my HW for rigs (other than Amazon Spain) and trends here follow whatever goes up in big old Europe, for HW parts and prices. I don't have sales figures to share other than word in conversations from people working/owning stores, where I get parts from for many years now. Basically, what they tell me is that, for high-end AM5 rigs they build, they don't skimp much on quality anymore (RAM, etc), because the pandemic-era festival with rip-offs and price gouging has ended, people got knowledged on what's what during the period, business tends to run thin and competicion exhists. This subject comes up quite often, also in tech communities with which I participate also for many years. If that doesn't mean anything, that's okay (I don't care). Around here, no store that I'm accustomated with is even using other 6000Mhz RAM for AM5 that is not CL30 for their system configurators. For AMD EXPO kits, it's either 6000 C30 or the cheaper 5600 C36 and 5200 C40 lately. Nothing else gets the attention, it seems. Could be lack of stock of different modules? Or people simply overlooking those other kits? I have no idea, but it is what it is. Saw similar things happening with UK's SCAN (or was it Overclockers?) not too long ago. You've been around for so long and are so successful, I don't know.... it shouldn't be much trouble asking the people you get parts from, "how many kits of 6000 CL30 are being sold, versus everything else, for AM5 (AMD Expo)?" Heck, make a pole in these forums, ask people what RAM they've bought, or intend to buy, for their AM5 system?

You keep assuming things, deluded. I already justified myself well enough in the previous two posts, take of it what you will. The 6000 CL30, specifically that latency timing, came up well before you even started whining about my post. Pay attention. Why would I even recommend that specific kit in the first place then? 6000 CL30 is what everybody is selling in bundles and in whole systems of AM5, because it's what's more ready available and is the best for AM5 "out-of-the-box", period. Regarded as slighly better and faster, as it's either SK Hynix M-Die or A-Die, slightly superior to Samsung B-Die (seen in 6000 CL36 and CL40) this time around, maybe because it's flexible, more tunable to extract a little bit more performance (OC), if ever inclined, while sold at similar price. Call it assumption, whatever, it's very likely what the OP will end up getting anyway. Would you feel the difference between CL30 and CL36 for AM5 on a propper DDR5 blind test? Probably not. Would you feel the difference between a 7800X3D and 14700K on a propper CPU blind test? Probably not. Would you feel the difference between a Crucial T700 and a WD SN850X on a propper NVME blind test? Probably not. ..... if the slightly faster/better one is also priced so similarly, why wouldn't you go for it?

Ask yourself this question... Do you want a very familiar experience to what you have had with the RTX2070S, usage wise, but better and with a LOT more performance? If so, get the RTX 4070Ti Super 16GB. Do you feel like changing to something different, with no problems to quickly adapt to unfamiliar things? If so, the RX 7900XT 20GB may be right for you. Both are really good GPUs, they're more or less equivalent, and any of the two will be awesome for DCS at 1440P (even 4K). The 4070Ti Super has GDDR6X, which is faster memory. But it has less of it as you may have noticed (16GB versus 20GB GDDR6 of the RX 7900XT). It does have lower power consumption and also generally runs cooler than the RX7900XT. But none of this is a deal breaker, what I'd say is to pay attention to what model you get, whichever way you decide to go (and promotions do happen). If you're in the US, search them in https://pcpartpicker.com/ Among so much information around, there's a fella that condenses info and details between models, to resume data for direct comparisons. I personally like the format he has chosen to provide it. May be worth a glance before pulling the trigger: (note: a great deal of info on these older 4070Ti 12GB models still applies to the newer 4070Ti Super 16GB model replacements)

No it's not inaccurate. And no, it's not wrong. You mentioned running 4x16GB DDR5 sticks on AM5, and I quote "at rated EXPO speed". (but no mention of timings heh) At least on four AM5 systems according to you, and I quote "three are B650E-F models, my own desktop is a B670E-F ROG Strix Gaming" ? (a typo surely, that last one must be an X670E-F) AFAIK, no manufacturer sells 4x16GB AMD EXPO kits. Which means then, you're using two of the same kit mixed, most likely. Neither are you using factory DDR5 6000 CL30 EXPO profile (which was my initial point), perhaps 6000 CL36 is what you're using as a base? If it's 4x sticks at 6000Mhz on AM5, then my bet is that you're probably running Hynix M-die based kits (higher tolerance especially on timings) with custom values for higher latency (perhaps CL38?) and relaxed timings, for stability, probably with adjusted/added voltages to it as well. Am I close enough? Which then does not disprove my point. And is also of no interest to this thread. Like, at all. I too overclock RAM, adjust memory speeds, timings and voltages too, but that is not something your regular DCS user in these forums will do. Nor should it be recommended. Not in this sort of threads. A regular user in these forum threads will likely want to put the RAM sticks, run the factory profile of RAM (AMD EXPO in this case) and be done and over with it. That is extremely unlikely to happen when adding 2 more sticks of 6000 CL30 DDR5 to the ones already in there, which is what most of these AM5 systems are being sold with. So, a bad experience later then when adding another of that same kit to increase capacity. With 2 sticks of 6000 CL30 DDR5, shouldn't be a problem (and recommended) so better get all the ammount you invision in that format. With 4 sticks of 5600 CL40 DDR5 it usually isn't a problem either (but it's noticeably slower). That was my initial point, also in my 1st reply to you, which still remains and is not wrong.

Oh sure, your own replies to me are always respectful and in good faith. Right. There's a simple fact you ignored, which would be simple to understand from my initial post - let me help you.... read the initial post, there's a list. In it says "32GB 6000MHz" DDR5 6000Mhz CL30 (AMD EXPO) has been the best memory for Ryzen 7000 series. And it's what 99% of people are using for brand new systems with 7800X3D (like the OP is doing). That "32GB 6000MHz" in the OT is going to be CL30, pretty sure about it. OP already mentioned that he'd be tempted to add another 32GB of the same(?) memory, to get 64GB total capacity like he has mentioned in this thread. Next thing, all sorts of troubles will happen, because 6000 CL30 is (AFAIK, and my experience) extremely problematic with 4x RAM modules, on AM5. That's why I replied "AM5 does not play well with 4 sticks of RAM (one of the downsides of this platform). You should avoid it because, then, it almost surely will be unable to run the memory at EXPO profile (the XMP equivalent for AMD). So, better keep it at 2 sticks of RAM only for AM5." And followed by a 2x32 GB kit recomendation. Once again. "32GB 6000MHz". The 4 sticks of RAM I mentioned there is if adding another kit of that memory. The EXPO I mentioned there, initially, is the EXPO of that memory. Which is pretty much alright to conclude it's 6000 CL30, right? The fact that it can run with a completely different kit of 4 modules and/or with slower speed and higher latency, is neither here nor there. Still not clear enough? Why the heck would you derail a thread just to pick completely unrelated facts that have nothing to do with it? Maybe that's your "go to", for whatever purposes? Someone mentioned that I should add you to the ignore list, and I found it too drastic. But perhaps it is better for both of us and our peers as well.

Nice word salad, as we say it around here. Interpreting facts that are not there, to create an argument with points that noone even aproached, perhaps to invigorate your "professionalism" (huh?), business and customers, has been a speciality of yours, considering the very same tone and way you aproach your peers in this forum, on other threads that you derailed before as well. But hey narcissism can be treated, so not all is lost for you yet..

What?? WHAT?? I'm not sure you've followed the thread since the beggining. The OP is not building the system himself, he's following the seller's advice. Why should we throw a heap of nerd jargon and details, which may become confusing, to justify something (like my second post and following ones to you), when it can be really simplified instead for choices on parts (my first post, or Appje's above)?

@kksnowbear dude, you're full of it. below is the original post, which is never altered on a quote made right after it. I took the "at all" from the first sentence. Because it could wrongly be interpreted that 4 sticks of RAM do not work "period", which they do. Just not as ideal, as you can with just 2 sticks. What other BS are you trying to invent next?

I did not edit the context or data in my posts. My initial post here says the same thing you and also the OP creator replied to. My second post - my reply to you - was a simple explanation why it's a bad idea to do it. To which I still stick with it. Beyond that I have no idea what you're on about (bullying?). But I do remember you editing posts well after the fact too (the NVME clusterfrak thread, for instances), shall I call you on BS then? Regarding your own results, if those are true at all, I sincerely think you got to a "luck of the draw" combo of some sort (without even knowing how or why), of some specific Hynix M-Die kit modules and motherboard (with certain BIOS version?) and stuck strictly and sacredly with it and took the chance to make business with it, because 64GB+ with 4 module kit at 6000 CL30 EXPO certainly isn't common (if not unheard of) with AM5. There. Simple and clear.

I'm so sorry.... I had "EXPOfor" and ammended that with a space..... pardon for my OCD. BTW, I'm curious... what's the BIOS version on those "three are B650E-F models, my own desktop is a B670E-F ROG Strix Gaming" ?

My edits are purely down to the fact that I have to rely on translators (english is not my native language) which, as you may know, usually can't interpret context of original content. Hence the various edits you see through many of my posts all across the forum. The data is the same as 1st time I posted, regardless of edits - keep the BS in your side please. My point remains the same. 6000 CL30 EXPO with 4 sticks in AM5 7000 series CPU is too much stress on the IMC. But of course, you can rely and send your build to @kksnowbear because the guy can do magic that, it seems, no one has been able to do. Not even RAM manufacturers (there is no 64GB, 96GB, or 128GB 4x modules kit at 6000 CL30 EXPO for a reason - IMC stress). Hey, I'm sure it'll be a "beast" of a system "rocking" those specs

I'll rephrase then. It will maybe run at AMD EXPO if that's below 5600Mhz CL40 speed/latency, which AFAIK is well below ideal (i.e, slower) for AMD 7000 series CPUs, ideal being 6000Mhz CL30. If you have found an AM5 motherboard that can run 4 sticks of 6000 CL30 (AMD EXPO) RAM at that ideal rated speed/latency, please inform which is one is that. Because I've build nearly a dozen of AM5 systems and none was able to do it. Same in HW forums I've been, noone has been able to do it. It's too much stress on the IMC.

AM5 does not play well with 4 sticks of RAM (one of the downsides of this platform). You should avoid it because, then, it almost surely will be unable to run the memory at EXPO profile (the XMP equivalent for AMD). So, better keep it at 2 sticks of RAM only for AM5. For 64GB on AM5, you should get a good 2x 32GB DDR5 6000 CL30 kit with AMD Expo profile. For example, among other kits, the GSKILL Flare X5 DDR5 64GB (2X 32GB) 6000 CL30 - F5-6000J3040G32GX2-FX5.

@Bucic you mentioned using an RTX 2070. HAGS is beneficial in a system where the game is leaning towards CPU limited, not GPU limited. For DCS 2.9x with an RTX 2070 you're a bit GPU limited, both in raw performance and on VRAM (even at 1080P with DLSS enabled in game). So, passing more work to the GPU then will not benefit things as desired. Hence why in your case it makes sense to disable HAGS (i.e, set as "OFF"). As for the Nvidia driver settings for DCS, it can depend on system hardware and personal preference. In any case, if interested, in this forum thread HERE I left my own settings, also some opinions on settings that, in my experience, can be detrimental or benefitial. Note that I use DCS mainly in VR, but use same Nvidia driver settings also for 2D screen (4K 60hz with S-Sync).

Your CPU temps at 80 and above... is that during gaming? If so, that's quite hot. I don't think going AIO water cooling will improve things much, not with a 240AIO or 280AIO, at high cost and quite a bit of fiddling. Instead, I'd ensure some things are done, and try a few others, it can improve substantially to lower temps (~10ºC I'd wager). I'll go in parts, not knowing if you already covered these: Get an Anti-Bending Buckle for LGA1700. This is pretty much a requirement in my experience with Intel 12th, 13th and 14th gen i7 an i9 processors, and it's worth the time (not complicated, watch the videos). The stock ILM in Z790 and Z690 motherboards doesn't ensure the best connection between the cooler's coldlplate and processor, unfortunately. And this thing solves that problem. You get better temperatures, as it should have been from the start. Not sure you've updated your motherboard BIOS, as there's been the recent "Intel Baseline Profile" implementation, but it should also help. There may be BIOS settings still worth amending, even after updating to latest BIOS. So, supposing that you have the very latest BIOS.... Load "Intel Baseline Profile", then Save + Exit BIOS. And after that (as optional), reboot and enter BIOS again, manually apply 307A in the ICCMax, then Save + Exit BIOS. "Why?" ....check this video, especially at about 4:25 and there on. That's for the 13900 and 14900 K/KF/KS, but for the 13700K/KF it should be 307A (not more) in ICCMax. AFAIK, the Noctua NH-D15S has only one fan, sandwiched between the two heatsink towers. If so, one good hack solution would be a nice second PWM fan attached to the front of that cooler, to make it work in tandem with the other one already there. Basically making it work like a regular NH-D15. You may need some zip-ties, as I doubt you have the metal clips for the extra fan. And also a "Y" fan splitter to get that second fan connected with the one already there, feeding both from same fan header on the motherboard. It's a 10 minute job at most. As for what PWM fan, get a good 120mm one with high static pressure meant for heatsinks and radiators. I suggest Arctic P12 MAX (for me, the very best 120mm fan for the price), or two of them if substituting the one there in your cooler as well. If solution #3 doesn't look appealing and you just want a new CPU cooler, well.... maybe get a Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ? It's just £30.00 and it's really good, right at the top with the very best air coolers, even matching 240AIOs.

YMMV but, for me, there are some things I still always do on a gaming system, doesn't matter if it's on Win10 or Win11: Disabling HAGS. For most systems its actually best left OFF (disabled), unless the CPU is considerably weaker than the GPU (not true on most gaming systems). Enabling it allows the GPU to reduce the load on the CPU and improve latency, as the GPU's scheduling processor and memory (VRAM) take over the same work and runs it in batches to render the frames. But it introduces other possible issues, such as stuttering and hitching. Enabling rBAR (if using NVIDIA GPU 30 or 40 series). While benefits for DCS are debatable (or non felt), it benefits too many games for it not to be used. Disabling VBS / HVCI, as it's useless on a gaming system and can benefit performance when gaming. Disabling HPET and Dynamic Ticks, as it allows unrestricted I/O to occur, and helps to decrease micro-stuttering and screen tearing that may occur during gameplay. Meant for portable and battery systems, can be a problem for desktops, it's known to cause issues especially when gaming. Disabling Core Parking, as it's a feature meant for laptops and office PCs. Disabling it can reduce micro-stutters when playing games or using resource-heavy apps. There's also a newer (free) application called ParkControl which handles this better on modern CPUs, along with Windows power plans. Using a performance power plan in Windows (enabling it before lauching the game, reverting to "Balanced" after exiting it), such as the Ultimate Performance Power Plan. While peak performance won't be all that improved, it can benefit things once in game. If using less than 64GB of RAM (48GB, 32GB, or less), setting the pagefile fixed to at least 32GB (32768 in both initial and max size) and set on the fastest drive. It helps tremendously with games that use lots of VRAM (like DCS) sometimes exceeding its limits, then also possibly exhausting the RAM. It's then assisted by pagefile (aka virtual memory).

That's actually not too bad at all for the adapter, though how good the PSVR2 headset really is on PC for sims remains to be seen. What seems appealing (IMO) is the sheer ammount of (what seem to be) barely used units at affordable prices, in the regular market places for second hand products, so it may be a good way for people to get into PC VR without spending a small fortune.

I think the motherboard is the one HW part worth a thorough research, because it's the foundation for everything in the system, also for possible future upgrades. Among others on the interweb, here's one good article for AM5 B650/B650E motherboards: https://www.techspot.com/review/2699-amd-b650-motherboards/ Relying solely on random user reviews at PCpartpicker is not really useful, but thats just my opinion. BTW, better not rely on the "oh it supports 7000X3D series processors right out of the box" comments you'll see, because that's never guaranteed to be so. All manufacturers made BIOS revisions for optimal performance with 7000X3D series processors at a later point. Meaning, you'll always need to ensure the BIOS is updated for the 7800X3D, regardless of AM5 motherboard. That's not a bad motherboard at all, on the contrary. My only issues with it are, 1) the PCIe 5 support is only for one single NVMe Gen5, not for the main PCIe slot (which upcoming GPUs from NVIDIA and AMD will use then benefit from) and, 2) that it's yet another budget oriented motherboard from Gigabyte, which (from experience) all tend to suffer from coil whine. I suggested those three "E" suffix AM5 ATX motherboards (B650E) not just because of the full PCIe 5 support (so, PCIe main slot and NVMe Gen5), but also for slightly better quality than the "non E" motherboards. They are (especially the ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi) as good as it gets for the money, IMO. I'll leave yet another motherboard suggestion - not a cheaper one but worth a look, as it's a good and solid X670E (and found around 260$): MSI MAG X670E TOMAHAWK WIFI It has everything one should need, including full PCIe 5 support and nice VRMs, and it too has a solution to update BIOS even without a CPU in it (MSI's M-Flash).

It's all a matter of budget... Looking at your system specs in sig, and as I see it, you're looking at a whole new system or close to it. New CPU (+ cooler), motherboard, GPU, a 1000W(+) PSU, possibly new RAM (64GB) as well. Maybe another NVME, and new PC case.... You could upgrade just the CPU (and possibly motherboard) but then the rest of your system may become a noticeable bottleneck. Upgrade to a considerably more powerful GPU.... the rest will become a bottleneck. And so on... (you get the picture) Might as well set a maximum budget, and how long you're willing to wait. Then it's a case of studying the possible options. Remember, later this year (end of summer?) you'll have new CPUs and Motherboards from both AMD (Zen 5) and Intel (15th gen). And also new GPUs from Nvidia (50 series). Any of the "mid range" new parts later this year are expected to be close to the current "high range", at a lower cost. And current parts should also decrease in price by then, with the new gen substitutes getting all the attention. Also, there's always the used market (a better solution than most will admit).

The list is good, but if I was building it I would change a few things (all debatable points). PC Case As good as the Fractal Torrent is, I find it overhyped. I don't get why pay more for it, with less expensive alternatives that are so good (IMO), like the LianLi Lancool 216 for example. The version with RGB controller (for the rainbow puke) is found under 120$, and under 100$ for the version without it. Either way, available in white or black. Power Supply The Corsair RMX1000 is good but AFAIK it's not equipped with the 12+4pin connector (12VHPWR) for Nvidia's RTX4000 GPUs - avoid the spaghetti with cable adapters. I'd pick an "80+Gold" (or better) ATX 3.0 compliant and PCIe 5.0 ready PSU, with native PCIe 12+4pin connector, and one positively reviewed and rated in PSU tier lists. A few examples that are good alternatives and similarly priced (and in no particular order): Be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1000W MSI MAG A1000GL PCIE5 Seasonic Focus GX-1000 ATX 3.0 Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1000W Gold TT PE Motherboard You picked a MicroATX motherboard, but building a system on ATX mid-tower case. Not sure if for some particular reason(?) but, for the AM5 motherboard, I'd pick something better, and in ATX format to go with a case fit for it. The ASROCK B650E PG Riptide WiFi (190$) and ASROCK B650E Steel Legend WiFi (200$) are better ASROCK alternatives for little more money (good VRMs, more USB ports). My prefered choice would probably be the ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi. I know ASUS hasn't been under the best light but it's an excelent motherboard for 250$. Good VRMs, four PCIe expansion slots, three M.2 slots, ten USB 3.2 ports (with a further eight USB 2.0 ports), four SATA ports, and also much better Audio. Storage I see you picked two Samsung 980PRO 2TB. Excelent choice for the main (system) drive. But, for the second drive meant for extra storage, and in case that you wish to shave a little the final price, consider instead the WD Black SN770 2 TB. It's a bit less expensive (135$), very fast and reliable, and being DRAM-less won't make any difference whatsoever for a second (or third, etc) separate extra storage drive, for whatever sims/games and whatnot. Regarding the CPU cooler and RAM. I have a TR Peerless Assassin 120SE (excelent cooler!). No problem with that RAM, since you're just using two sticks of memory - the slot closest to the cooler isn't populated. But, I'd still recommend lower profile memory, and that particular GSKILL kit that @Aapje recommends (see his post above) is an excelent choice to pair with the AMD 7800X3D. Lastly, the Windows OS. I hope you're not buying a Windows installation disc because that's an unnecessary expense. Get a USB3.0 flash drive with 8GB+ and use the Windows Media Creation Tool, on your current PC, so that later you can install Windows 64-bit (Win10 or Win11, your pick) from that flash drive, on that PC that you're building. Here's a tutorial: https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2376-create-bootable-usb-flash-drive-install-windows-10-a.html Then just get the key code for the Windows version of your preference, and use that to register your Windows afterwards. Plenty good websites selling legitimate keys for Win10 Pro and Win11 Pro, for less than 4$(!!). For example: Windows 10 Pro OEM Key: https://pixelcodes.com/product/os-10-pro-oem/ Windows 11 Pro OEM Key: https://pixelcodes.com/product/os-11-pro-oem-key/

Just posting some stuff that is not DCS specific but still worth sharing (or so I hope). Before anything, and for those willing to go ahead and try this for themselves, I'll assume you already know what Is Resizable BAR on a GPU, and also that you have it already enabled, in your motherboard BIOS and in your NVIDIA 30 or 40 series graphics card. If you don't know if Resizable Bar (rBAR) is enabled, nor how to enable it, then I suggest to search for guides on that, there's plenty around for this delicate process. Here's one among many others: youtube.com/watch?v=FUO_8bykkc4 So, I've been using Resizable BAR (rBAR) for a long time now, but never felt too sure that it's making a real difference with games. That was until recently, when I found out that, for NVIDIA 30 and 40 series GPUs, for it to work it should be "forced". And better if with aproppriate settings. After that, I find there's a noticeable difference with plenty games, some run impressively smoother now (Ghost of Tsushima, for example). To force and adjust rBAR settings, you'll need a third party app, called Nvidia Profile Inspector: https://github.com/Orbmu2k/nvidiaProfileInspector For those unfamiliar with this fantastic app, it opens access to more Nvidia driver settings than those found in the Nvidia Control Panel. With it, we can adjust a lot of settings, individually (per game title) or globally (for all profiles), as prefered. So, opening Nvidia Profile Inspector... If you wish to adjust settings of the Global profile (so, for all game profiles) click the "house icon" (represents "Home" or "Main profile"). Its settings will then be listed. If you wish to adjust settings individually for one game title only, then search for it in the "Profiles" (top left). You can manually scroll to locate the game title of your choice. Or you can use the search box and type the game title name to be located - example: for DCS, type"Digital Combat Simulator" (without comas). Once with the profile of your choice open, scroll down through the settings, to the "Common" section. There you'll find the three rBAR settings. These are the rBAR settings that, so far, I found best for my own GPU and games: rBAR feature - - - - - - Enabled rBAR options - - - - - - 0x00000001 rBAR size limit - - - - - 0x0000000100000000 On this last "rBAR size limit" setting, some important notes. These are the limits available: 0x000000000C800000 = 200MB VRAM 0x0000000012C00000 = 300MB VRAM 0x0000000040000000 = 1GB VRAM 0x0000000060000000 = 1.5GB VRAM (default Nvidia value for most games?) 0x0000000080000000 = 2GB VRAM 0x0000000100000000 = 4GB VRAM 0x0000000200000000 = 8GB VRAM 0x0000000280000000 = 10GB VRAM It seems NVIDIA goes with 1.5GB for most game titles(?). Theoretically, only the last 4 requests of 256MB are said to be remembered. So, theoretically, more than 1GB for games is unnecessary. The 1GB limit is also the highest recommended value for GPUs with smaller amounts of VRAM (8GB or less) because, more than that, there is a very strong chance that VRAM overflow will happen, making things worse (the GPU may have to erase the VRAM, any benefits are lost). But there are game titles that can benefit if you set a larger rBAR size limit, if you have available VRAM. I have set the rBAR size limit to 4GB, as that seems plenty and I have a GPU with a lot of VRAM (using an RTX 3090 24GB). Of course, YMMV. Feel free to play with different rBAR settings.

It's getting old and no longer top of the line, but the i9 9900K is still good for DCS at 4K resolution. It's noticeably faster than your i5 8600K and I think it's a reasonable upgrade, but only worth going for if it's $200 or less (used units, on Ebay and etc). It'd be a simple direct swap on your Z370-A motherboard, after updating to latest BIOS. That said, some things worth concern there, I'll try to break it in parts: If you decide to get the i9 9900K, be sure to get the right version. There are four versions of the i9 9900K that you'll notice if buying used: - i9 9900K -- the regular version with onboard GPU (not a requirement, you have your RTX3080) and the most commonly found around. - i9 9900KF -- same as a regular 9900K just without onboard GPU (requires a dedicated GPU, which you have). Great choice for a gaming system and usually cheaper. - i9 9900KS -- a higher binned special edition, pre-overclocked to 5.0Ghz (all-core) from factory. Good, but people ask a big premium for it, and runs hot. - i9 9900K "ES" -- the cheaper "engineering sample" versions (lower binned, lower clock) which are much slower - this version is not worth it, do NOT buy. The i9 9900K needs a good cooler, though nothing out of the ordinary. If you haven't got a good cooler, then I highly recommend the Thermalright PS 120 SE, at $35 it's simply unbeatable. It matches performance of the Noctua NH-D15 (and even 280 AIO coolers) at a fraction of the price. It also allows for decent overclocking on an i9 9900K (think all-core 4.8Ghz). Unbeliveable cooler for such a low price. The RTX3080 you have is still a really good GPU, just limited by its 10 or 12 GB VRAM (depending on version) and that, with the 32GB of RAM you have, is borderline for a smooth experience with DCS. Depending on map and module, a stutter free experience is not ensured - regardless of whatever CPU upgrade you make. In your case, setting the pagefile fixed to 32GB (so, equals to 32768 in both initial and max size) and to your fastest drive, is pretty much required for DCS (try it, please). It is so because DCS at 4K resolution can consume the VRAM of any GPU beyond 12GB+ quite quickly and, once that's exhausted, it then feeds from the RAM and also pagefile (aka virtual memory). While this helps a lot with VRAM limitations of a GPU, it is much slower and why some stuttering or hitching can (and will) still occur. ........you may now understand why people feel compelled to upgrade, to a 16GB(+) VRAM high-end GPU and also to 64GB (and even 96GB) of the fastest RAM that their system can run, just for DCS - it's a "brute force solution", through overkill specs, to circumvent ugly optimization issues, even after the recent implementation of DLSS and FSR. At this point, one might as well upgrade to a whole brand new system.... Yes, it gets very expensive, unfortunately. A fellow member (@CL30) went similar path recently (from i5 9600K, to a used i9 9900K) but he had 64GB of RAM already, and went from RTX2080Ti to a used RTX3090.

Sorry all for going off-topic. Fine. We're just very different then, I guess. I don't find it okay (ethically or otherwise) to see a commercial product, based around a single warbird, being initially announced/teased to a whole community of enthusiasts, and then still see it being teased as a "WIP" after nearly SEVEN YEARS. It's just wrong, sorry. "HEY MAN, IT'S ON COMA... ERRR... KINDA.... NOT DEAD THOUGH!! ...OKAAY??" It may be normal in the modding world (complexities, man power and "real life issues" are so often naively underestimated) but in the commercial arena it's quite different, in my experience. But hey... it's DCS man! The "vaporware" term, used for it earlier in this thread, seems fairly apt. "" To me, anyway.