LucShep

@sew333: My dude, I think preventive maintenance and troubleshooting is essential with PC usage, but the old adage "if it's not broken, don't fix it" also applies. If it only happened once on first boot of the new system configuration, it's quite normal. Enjoy that system instead of worrying about it. That said, if you do feel that worried about it and need to clear doubts, you may simulate a "worst case scenario", by running both CPU and GPU stress tests (benchmark) at same time, while monitoring system total (peak) wattage and temperatures. It's reasonable as a quick test for PSU. For example.... Cinebench R20 (CPU -- Run) at same time that you run Heaven Benchmark (max settings, v-sync OFF, 1920x1080 resolution or higher). And HWinfo to monitor temperatures, wattage, etc. A small period of time (less than 5 mins) with both CPU and GPU benchmarks running in loop-repeat, and simultaneously, should be "bad enough" to stress test that system. As the CPU and the GPU are the most power-hogging components on any system, and with both being pushed at same time (again, like a worst case scenario simulation), then you'll see the system being closer to maximum load, and likely able to see if your PSU is fully capable and stable at max loads. If it's not, then it may shut down. ..........oh, and if things get too hot or smelly, interrupt tests imediately! *j/k*

Looks normal to me, if it only happened once and on first boot with new config. If it's the same Win10 installation from previous config, make sure there are no chipset drivers and related software from previous motherboard that can conflict with the new one (uninstall those and reboot). Afterwards, install the correct chipset drivers for your new motherboard and carry on.

There is Intel "Alder Lake" 12th gen which, if with a compatible/capable DDR5 motherboard, can use DDR5 RAM. But, at this point and so far, DDR5 RAM is not worth for gaming. DDR4 RAM is still the better choice, because you'd pay ~200% for DDR5 for just a 3% (yes, three percent) of advantage over common DDR4 low latency kits. So, again as of today, it makes no sense for gaming. If in doubt, plenty articles that have explained, compared and benchmarked one against the other: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-12900k-alder-lake-ddr4-vs-ddr5/ https://www.kitguru.net/components/cpu/luke-hill/ddr4-vs-ddr5-intel-core-i9-12900k-testing/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wQ9MGrTvwc&t=316s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRvo__2taug&t=407s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIN8lLhSqmg&t=1058s

64GB, you surely mean? With such an ammount of RAM, and in my own experience (YMMV), it doesn't seem to really matter. I started with 16GB/32GB min/max pagefile (from when using 32GB RAM before), then onto System Managed Size (set automatically by Windows) to see if there's any benefit. Couldn't notice any difference TBH. I do feel it has to have a bare minimum. Some programs and games (old legacy ones mostly) need at least 800MB set as minimum, otherwise they won't run, so (IMO) not using a pagefile at all is never to be considered. I finally set it to 1GB/2GB min/max (yes, that small) to minimize SSD (NVMe) drive usage. The pagefile is barely used with 64GB of RAM - most I've seen is 60% on a really hectic mission online with other stuff opened in background - and the system runs smooth and fast at all times, has been so for months now.

IMHO, the i9 9900K is still very good, and not worth upgrading right now (for gaming, even if DCS only being in use). If not done yet, maybe consider overclocking it, though it's not really a necessity. The only two things I'd consider upgrading there - and only if really struggling with performance - is the GPU and RAM. Upgrading to an Nvidia RTX3080 or RTX3080Ti 12GB (plus the recommended 850W+ PSU) will deliver good performance improvements. Adding more RAM (for 64GB total) will help with complex missions, especially in Multiplayer populated servers.

Try something like this as a starting point: I use resolution at 3840x2160 (4K is native res. of my screen) - set yours to the native resolution of your screen. I use VSYNC "ON" because that's what works best for me, but you may wish to try it at "OFF", especially if using Freesync or GSync. I use GAMMA at "2", but adjust that as you see fit (increase for brighter image, decrease for darker image). If performance is good, perhaps increase a few settings here and there, starting by increasing Anisotropic Filter (to 16x), MSAA (to 4x), and VISIB.RANGE, other settings following. Experimentation on settings is up to you. Some small advice on settings (YMMV) can be found in the 2nd post of the following thread: As side note, and FWIW, I use Simplex Shaders, which provides slightly better performance, with no downsides whatsoever (IMO).

Sure, new meaty GPU + adequate PSU you'll certainly get a big boost for 4K. Yes, it'll give you time to enjoy the game while planning the following upgrades (better CPU, more RAM), which will later free more performance when combined, and that's for sure.

+1 I think you have to draw the line somewhere and, at some point, enough is enough. More eye-candy quickly becomes overkill, and a detriment to the whole experience (too high requirements and investment for DCS needed performance, it becomes hard to justify). I'm also perfectly fine with BS2 levels of detail, it's the whole rest of content that needs more attention and development, especially performance optimizations.

First, the SSD. DCS is quite a big game, so getting a second drive with 1TB (or more) of storage is something you'll appreciate right away on that system as it currently is, that's for sure (and a few other sim/games will also fit). Your MSI B450 Tomahawk Max II motherboard has only one slot for NVME SSD (gen3 or gen4). So, either replace it with a bigger one (1TB or 2TB), or get a separate 2.5'' Sata3 SSD (1TB or 2TB). Next, the power supply (PSU). It's probably in your list already but don't skimp on that. Your EVGA 550W won't cut it if going for an RTX3080/3080Ti. A quality PSU with 850W should be considered for such GPUs, perhaps even a 1000W if purchasing for the very long term (i.e, good also for future GPU upgrade). If you decide so, there are some good quality and reasonably priced 1000W 80+Gold PSUs worth looking for, for just little more money than 850W counterparts. For example, and among others, check the Corsair RMx 1000w, EVGA SuperNOVA GT (or G6) 1000w, Seasonic Prime (Gold) GX1000 and SuperFlower Leadex (Gold) 1000w. Then, the processor (CPU). The Ryzen 7 2700X is certainly not a slow processor per se, but IPC is not exactly great on it, which is what most games/sims prefer - especially single core biased ones like DCS. It's not like "it's really urgent" to upgrade your Ryzen 7 2700X, but the upgrade to an RTX3080 or RTX3080Ti will make a processor upgrade even more noticeable. Your MSI B450 Tomahawk Max II motherboard is compatible with AMD Ryzen 5000 series CPUs (if BIOS is updated), so I'd say to consider going for a Ryzen 5 5600X. The Ryzen 5 5600X is a really, really good processor for gaming, noticeably faster than you 2700X, it's compatible with your motherboard (direct swap if BIOS is updated) and that processor upgrade won't cost you a fortune (at ~200$) like the more expensive flagships do. And finally the RAM (memory). You got 32GB which is enough, but 64GB can smooth things out, especially in Multiplayer. DCS is kinda of a monster, and things with DCS 2.7+ have been pushing true hardware requirements to silly specs. Updates show that this trend is not easing (plenty posts in the forums about it). So, it's another upgrade that, while not urgent, should be considered sometime later.

Very nice. congrats! The RTX3060Ti 8GB is quite faster than the RTX3060 12GB, and better than I initially thought (I'm using one at 4K / 60Hz). Really good bang for the buck. Consider undervolting it with MSI Afterburner sometime later. It will run even better (performance +/- equivalente to a stock RTX3070) while getting slighly better temps as it'll be consuming a little less power. The following tutorial is easy to understand and its settings (1980Mhz@925mv) are close to perfect for any RTX3060Ti:

A decent 650W PSU will be fine with any of those GPUs on your system. If you already have one, then you're good to go. You don't "need" to undervolt any GPU, just like you don't need to use a custom fan profile (to make fans spin faster), it's just a very good idea and practice to do those things. Undervolting makes the GPU consume less electricity, resulting in less heat generated while maintaining performance as good as factory stock, if not better - and why it's often recommended. It's fairly easy to do it with MSI Afterburner (both undervolting and custom fan profile) but, no, it's not needed if you don't want to mess with that.

Avoid any 6GB VRAM GPUs, such as GTX1660 Super, GTX 1660Ti, RTX 2060 6GB or GTX 980Ti 6GB. At this point and ahead, 8GB VRAM on the GPU has become standard as minimum recommended for DCS, as even in 1080P resolution DCS can consume 8GB+ of video memory if you add MSAA and/or SSAA (for example, F-14 Tomcat or other overkill detailed modules in the Syria map, etc), something that you'll end up doing anyway if you want image quality at 1080P resolution. Also, and from my own experience in both 1080P and 4K, DCS runs a bit better with Nvidia than with AMD, given two GPUs of equivalent performance from both manufacturers. Therefore - and take it for what is - I'd say Nvidia is definitely prefered for DCS (I emphasize, specifically for DCS, not gaming in general). For 1080P and DCS, this is what I'd personally recommend - difference from top to bottom is ≥30% performance (better to worse is top to bottom): Nvidia GTX 1080Ti 11GB Nvidia RTX 2070 Super 8GB Nvidia RTX 3060 12GB AMD RX 5700XT 8GB Nvidia RTX 2070 8GB AMD RX 6600XT 8GB Nvidia RTX 2060 Super 8GB AMD RX 5700 8GB AMD RX 6600 8GB Nvidia GTX 1080 8GB Nvidia GTX 1070Ti 8GB Nvidia RTX 3050 8GB Your i3 10100F, although far from top of the line, is not a slow processor by any means (equivalent to a stock i7 6700K), so CPU bottlenecks with such GPUs are unlikely. Personally, and in your case, I'd look on EBAY for a deal on a used RTX2070 8GB (Super or non-Super), maybe even on a used GTX1080Ti 11GB, from reputable sellers. But I can understand if people prefer a brand new GPU with full warranty and etc, and that list I put has models that are no longer found brand new. In that case (if buying brand new), I'd bit the bullet and get the RTX 3060 12GB.

@assafm25: Your build looks very good (to me). Every component is importand and it's a lot of money invested, but do focus on getting the very best GPU you can, as well as a hefty ammount of total RAM - right now that's what DCS requires the most. As for the RAM, and like others said, better get 64GB of RAM, not 32GB. It makes quite a difference, especially in MP with populated servers. I presume this will become "the standard" from now on - rather do it sooner while you can, than feeling forced to do it later. As for the GPU, the trend on prices is slowly and steadily going down, so perhaps wait just a bit more and perhaps go for either Nvidia RTX3080Ti or AMD RX6900XT, once a good oportunity arises. Either are phenomenal options, though I'd choose Nvidia over AMD any day of the week if DCS was all that I cared about. Some nice deals appear occasionally on Ebay for used high-end GPUs and RAM from sellers with good reputation, so if you don't mind spending on used components, perhaps also have a look in there too. FWIW, at the moment (3rd week of April 2022) this is the general pricing for brand new GPU products on the shelves: Source: youtube.com/watch?v=T0RfE_b4g2o

holy crappola forgot a zero there (sorry all). Yes, you're absolutely right, going to rectify my post before someone barbecues a system LOL.

I see you're also on Intel Comet Lake (i7 10700K), you'll be fine. I also added a second 32GB kit (2x 16 GB) of exact same RAM to mine. Up to Comet Lake (10th gen), Intel is not too fussed about RAM. Whereas from Rocket Lake (11th gen) and onwards, and especially with Alder Lake (12th gen), things are more like AMD Ryzen, lot pickier and sensitive with mixing of RAM kits (even of same model of RAM). One thing I'll recommend is to add 0.05v to the DRAM voltage in BIOS, as four sticks can get cranky otherwise, if compared to just two. So, supposing that the RAM kit(s) you have is 1.35v, first thing I'd do is to raise that to 1.40v. Perfectly safe and harmless, small adjustment that can make all the difference. I also OC'ed my RAM speed and (tweaked, tighter) timings. But be it Manual or XMP settings (if same exact kit), it should all be fine then.