LucShep

heh funny indeed! ....congratulations, I guess? I've seen it break (twice!) during livestreams on twitch. A friend here broke the "far antler" just by accidentaly touching it with the arm while reaching for the curtain (would be hilarious if not for his misfortune), not even duct-tape could save it. How that flimsy fragile thing goes through QC to be on sale is beyond belief, IMO. And it was through that same friend that I got to know about the DelanClip (to replace that broken TrackClip Pro). The built quality and robustness is not even comparable (far better made, like a tank in comparison), makes a joke of it. Nearly same thing goes for the old Trackhat Clip that I got about a decade ago. Not proud of it but, mine has been dropped on floor and even stepped over countless times by accident, and still going flawlessly. It's a shame that the UTC is no longer being developed, that too was a phenomenal alternative.

Please take no offense, as you do present an alternative.... the TrackClip Pro is not worth the price and should never be recommended. It's utterly fragile and it will break at some point. Get the DelanClip (pretty much unbreakable) available either as wired USB, or completely wireless (your pick) and be done with it.

Then you need LEDs for tracking (the "antlers" with the IR LEDs, for the camera to pick up and track movement reliably). At such angle and distance, it will never be fine with the hat reflectors - those are meant to be used in a small angle (almost right in front of the camera), for small(er) screens. DelanClip (wireless, or wired and plugged into USB) placed on headphones/headset (at right or left of your head) is the most reliable. Or do some yourself (plenty videos on Youtube, this for example but ignore the camera and software part - the "LED antlers" work with the TrackIR camera). Some even do them to be placed on top of a hat with a small AA battery.

Agreed but, from experience, it can work fine. If you don't go by me, watch other people's videos, for instances Growling Sidewinder. He uses a 55'' screen with TrackIR and seems to have no issues (watch him explaining at 3:31 min/sec):

Pardon me, it was I that didn't understand correctly. I thought the issue was the positioning of the camera on top of the screen, that it needed readjustment (angle, etc) beyond what currently is possible "as is". It's a hack I've used on every big screen, i.e, to force a steeper angle of the camera (towards you, as it's so much higher than usual) while keeping it secure. But only now realizing the issue may be unrelated(?). Are you using the Track Clip Pro LED headtracker, or just the plastic reflector thing on the hat? I ask this because the issue that you describe seems similar to what I noticed before with a friend's TrackIR - he was using the hat reflectors (the plastic thing to put on a hat). We realized that when the camera is placed on a bigger screen (like yours) it sits much higher than by design, and the tracking is disturbed (LEDs for tracking become a must). @Hiob, @kksnowbear and @SharpeXB mentioned the possible issue above, I think you'll understand. In my friend's case, we fixed it by using LEDs for tracking (DelanClip, check their website), forcing a steeper angle of the camera (towards the head of the user) and readjusting the response curves until satisfied. Personally, I use an old PS3Eye Camera (+IR filter) with OpenTrack software, and TrackHatClip (with IR LEDs, pretty much same thing as the DelanClip) placed on headphones. I never had an issue, and have used it with a plethora of screens (32'', 46'', 55'', 43'' and now the current 50'' screen), be it sitting close or far from the screen (50 cm to 150cm distance). Yes, it was a PITA to configure the curves untill it finally got "nice" (TrackIR seems superior in that regard) but, once the profile was set, it works a treat.

Yep, happens with most TVs and also with some Monitors (always had that problem too with mine). Easily fixed with some velcro adhesive tape, very effective. And if the angle is too steep, or simply to create some support, you can also cut some foam to fill in the space. You just need to be creative. There are many other similar velcro adhesive tape products but, for example, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Self-Adhesive+Velcro+Tape%2C+8M%2C+Extra+Strong%2C+Double-Sided+Adhesive%2C+Velcro+Fastener%2C+Self-Adhesive+Adhesive+Pad%2C+20+mm+Wide%2C+Black&s=price-asc-rank&crid=2HT2FE054T1BI&qid=1713644845&sprefix=self-adhesive+velcro+tape%2C+8m%2C+extra+strong%2C+double-sided+adhesive%2C+velcro+fastener%2C+self-adhesive+adhesive+pad%2C+20+mm+wide%2C+black%2Caps%2C177&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank&ds=v1%3Afnw81IuiXzA10n41DGN5%2BwdW96r3s5d%2FF7eW%2BWddxLE As for the foam (which may end up being not necessary), most products these days come with foam inside the boxes to secure the content (and any type will do).

If it occurs again, it can be remedied by taking the following procedures (and goes for any Logitech/Saitek HOTAS): LEDs always OFF in the Logitech software, pretty much a requirement to avoid any issues. Better make sure as well to connect it through a self-powered USB HUB. No need for expensive ones, cheap ones like TP-Link UH720 ($25.00) are absolutely fine. Do the following for both the throttle and stick, to solve ghosting and jittering problems (usual in throttle and rotaries, also happen with the X52 and X52-Pro), by using Vjoy +Joystick Gremlin, following this tutorial:

Opinions vary and there is no "absolutely right" or "absolutely wrong" aproach. We're not yet at a point where games like DCS can overload an NVME. On most cases, moving the entire DCS installation folder to the new separate driver location will more than suffice. Leaving the programs (SRS, Simshaker, TrackIR, etc) and DCS save folder in the main drive. That said, you may also want to move the DCS saves folder to the new separate NVMe as well. This is more involved but, if you want to experiment with it, you can do that by using symbolic links for folders (SimLinks). Once done, the shaders compiling, user mods and various configs and logs can (somewhat) benefit, space and speed wise, by being in the faster, separate drive.

Not quite as proficient with VR as others here, but have had the chance to test different popular HMDs. I too was on a budget searching for the best VR experience (and no lighthouses) for the least money. To me, the HP Reverb G2, and the older G1 as well, are still excelent purchases in the used market - if it's a good flawless specimen. Ended up getting a Reverb G1 ("Pro" version, the second version of the G1, with no mura issues and, it seems, a better quality cable). Pretty much as brand new, and it was cheap - you can find various Reverb G1 from 140,00€ upto 250,00€ on Ebay, both from private and professional sellers. Really happy with it (zero issues!), for the price I don't think there's anything better. Tiny sweet spot but great image quality, and works awesome for my needs (using it at 90Hz, 45FPS with reprojection). Decent audio and comfort as well. The cable splits in two, connects to GPU DisplayPort and to USB 3.0+ (use fastest available port in motherboard), meaning that it's direct - there's no image compression/decompression processing, so there's no extra hit on GPU resources unlike other HMD competitors. Downsides.... IPD is fixed in hardware, only adjustable through software (WMR). There's no possibility of wireless use - but then no headset battery to worry about. Also, if that's a concern - as you mention Half Life Alyx - the controllers are "meh", totally usable but not great (I don't use them, don't care). There have been reports of cables going bad on it (and then only fixable by modding the HMD, as they're connected internally), and that's the only concern with the device itself, as far as I'm aware. Tried the Reverb G2 and it's an identical experience to the G1 (and same resolution) with quite a few upsides. The colors seem a bit better calibrated, and audio-speakers are even better. The IPD adjustment is done manually (tab-slider) in the headset, and it's a little more comfortable. And if it's a "V2" (G2 version 2) you also have the advantage of the mask gasket swapping to adjust eye/face distance to the lenses. Also, the controllers are a bit upgraded (another upside, if important to you). Like the G1, it's not wireless. There are issues with cables becoming damaged with time (the twist and turning doesn't help) and replacements are expensive at 100,00€+ a pop. There's also the issue with Windows 11, rumours suggest no more support for WMR by the end of this year (which these HP Reverb headsets use). I'm on Windows 10 and don't intend to upgrade, so I'm not concerned at all atm. But could be a concern in the mid/longer term for Windows 11 users, though I'm convinced an alternative from third parties will appear. Tried the Quest 2 and, in comparison to my Reverb G1, was really awful in my recent experience (using it wired, but can be wireless). Overall image quality was noticeably inferior, resolution was fuzzy (and shimmering everywhere), horrible colors, though the sweet spot was a wee bit larger. The audio was really poor, and so was the comfort (or rather, the lack of it!). Very disapointing, would not recommend it. I'd rather get the much older Oculus Rift-S (also tested) at way cheaper used prices and, for me, near the same visual experience and much more comfortable. Tried the Pico 4 (wired and wireless with virtual desktop) and, coming from the Reverb G1, what you imediately notice is the MUCH wider sweet spot, due to the pancake lenses. It's really much better in that regard, you can look around a lot more without moving the head so much. Also, the lack of cables (when wireless) was an unexpected pleasant experience for me (not giving importance to it initially). The overall image at times does look inferior, as if "compressed quality", but still good for a VR device at this price point. The audio was just okay, as was comfort, though the owner complained that it's quite finicky to set up on PC(?). What we did notice was the GPU working much, much harder than with my G1 (encoding and decoding processing on background, it must be), with similar system to mine. You really need a very strong GPU for it, and that can be the deal breaker for some. That, and dedicated router requirement for the wireless experience to work without issues. I haven't tried a Quest 3 but, I believe, much of what I just said for the Pico4 will apply too. Though, knowing Oculus/Meta, it should be a more refined experience. Like with the Pico4, I read about the need of having a dedicated 5G router for Air Link (if wireless), which also adds cost - something more to think about. I hear a lot of good things about the Quest Pro, and it's the one HMD that intrigues me the most (Varjo Aero and BSB way too much €€€€ for me, no interest in Pimax HMD). The problem is, even in used market, the prices (in Europe) are still a bit too high. And it too seems to require a dedicated router for the wireless experience (but can be wired). The TLDR would be something like this..... Reverb G2, also older Reverb G1, gives most "bang for the buck" (but only on used market). You get a super nice image (ultra sharp and high quality) but only on the centre of fresnel lenses (small "sweet spot"). There's no wireless possibility and reliability of cables is a concern, as is long term usage with rumoured discontinued support of WMR on Windows 11, at the end of 2024. Quest 3 and Pico 4, good purchases (new or used) due to the pancake lenses (sweet spot is almost all across the lenses!) but require a potent GPU (4070Ti Super or better) for best experience in demanding games like DCS, and not an improvement in image quality if compared to Reverb G1/G2. A dedicated 5G router for wireless use is also somewhat of a requirement (extra cost on top). Quest 2 only if really, reeaally cheap. Quality is (IMHO) nowhere near, for any given parameter; even old Rift-S looked like an alternative to this one. Quest Pro looks like the one to get (?) but prices are questionable (usually high). Requires a dedicated router for wireless use.

Just a FYI, newest version of RTSS makes setting up Scanline Sync a little easier to do. Now you just have to set the correct negative value (to hide the tear line) for the Scanline Sync to activate, put V-Sync OFF in game (or force it "OFF" in the driver settings) and off you go. Calculation formula for that Scanline Sync value ---> "Sync total" - "Sync Line 0" = "Scanline Sync value" Example, for 3840 x 2160 resolution (4K) the Sync total for this resolution is 2250. In my experience, for most games running in 4K, the tear line disappears with the Sync line 0 set to 2110. 2250 - 2110 = 140 Therefore, for 4K resolution, I type in "-140" in RTSS's box dedicated to Scanline sync. For 1080P resolution, "-50" in RTSS's box dedicated to Scanline sync seems to work fine. Bigger or smaller negative number will adjust position of the tear line, higher or lower in the screen (objective is to get it where it can't be seen, usually at the very bottom). Important: you must use negative numbers.

A few things there to watch for: 1) Could be as simple as a defective or inadequate HDMI cable (my suspicion there) or, worst case scenario, defective HDMI port (either in GPU or in the 4K TV). Make sure you have an HDMI cable that far exceeds any requisits, then any doubts about the cable are gone for sure. I'd strongly recommend getting an 8K certified HDMI 2.1 cable no bigger than 9.8 feet (3 meters max) - just an example, but this is a good one to get. 2) Never seen any RTX3090 with only two PCIe power feed slots (always seen three power feed slots). What model is that? 3) Always use separate PCIe cables from the PSU to feed the respective power feed slots on the GPU (it goes for any power hungry GPU, like the RTX3090 is). Never, ever, use just a single one for a GPU like yours - which is exactly what you're doing there, with pigtail feeding the second power feed slot on your GPU. That's a big no-no. You risk severe(!) damage in your PSU and in your GPU. Use at least two PCIe cables (+ one pigtail if it's three PCIe power feed slots) from the PSU, for your RTX3090 - see image below from Seasonic.

As said above, the RTX 4060 (any version) in comparison to those is garbage. Even if new, avoid it. The RTX 2080Ti 11GB would be a better deal if it was not a blower model (it's friggin awful, avoid it!), which that PNY unfortunately is. Try to negotiate that EVGA RTX3060Ti FTW3 Ultra. Go for it! That one is among the very best models you can get and, if it's good, for 250-ish it's a heck of a good deal, I think.

Nope. RTX 3060Ti is better than any other GPU in its price range. Better than RTX 4060Ti and RTX 4060. These are cheap for a reason, they're 128-bit bus (don't just walk, run from them!) Also better than RTX 3060 12GB. And also better (for DCS) than the AMD equivalents, the RX6700XT, 6750XT and 7600XT. RTX 2080 Super performs pretty much the same, but with a little higher power consumption (+50W) and higher temperature. RTX 3070 is pretty much the same thing as it, just with slightly higher clocks (~8% performance difference) and higher price.

In your case, for your budget, it's an absolute "correct" to answer your question. The best AMD GPU you'll manage for your budget is the AMD RX 6700XT and 6750XT 12GB models. While you'll notice and feel tempted by the bigger VRAM ammount in these (12GB vs 8GB), when compared to the Nvidia RTX 3060Ti and RTX 2080 Super they compete with, they are severely limited by their 192-bit bus once you go past 1440P resolution (and with VR). The two mentioned Nvidia models are better being 256-bit, and we're not even counting yet with, yes, the tremendous DCS bias towards Nvidia. What happens in reality when put into practice for DCS, those two Nvidia models (RTX3060Ti, RTX2080S) perform better and are far less fussy with DCS (2D or VR). From experience, I'd say to definitely get Nvidia, though those mentioned two are far from perfect (but it's an interim solution, as you said) given their 8GB VRAM limitation. Any AMD GPU that is 256-bit bus and 16GB+ VRAM performs fine with DCS (RX 6800 XT, RX 6900/6950 XT, RX 7800 XT, RX 7900 GRE, XT and XTX). But then those are well over your budget. And the Nvidia equivalents to those still perform notoriously better in DCS.

Are you located in the US ? If so, give a look to the refurbished RTX 3060Ti 8GB models in Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=4016&d=3060ti&Order=1 Pretty much any RTX 3060Ti will do fine, but I'd recommend getting a triple-fan model (Gigabyte ones are excelent). I too had one as interimn solution and it positively surprised me - it's just a slightly underclocked RTX 3070 (more expensive) and performs as good as it. And a terrific performer once undervolted (tutorial HERE).