LucShep

Since 2005 when FC1 was released for LOMAC, following a review of it in good old SimHQ (here) which provoqued enough curiosity to make me get it. I still wish more detailed reviews were put in articles out there, like those guys used to do. But, at that time, it ran so bad on my PC and, as I was much more into WW2 warbirds (and sim-racing), other sim titles took my attention. It was only later when I picked FC2, then DCS BlackShark and DCS A-10C (the standalone titles, not the modules) that I really got into the "modern" groove of DCS. Aaah good old ModMan! Ricardo's cockpits were the bee's knees!

Nicely done, glad you sorted that one out! And yes, Norton goes to the drawer! LOL (please do NOT use it). Not sure if that's done already but, make sure to put the heatsink cover in there again (peel the plastic sticker off in it, the "gum" is to make contact with the NVME). That helps with lower temperatures quite a lot in those fast hot NVMEs, which also translates to highest speeds going even at intensive loads. Same one as posted before, but watch the last part of this video (at about the 38 seconds mark): Exactly!

Maybe cancel your pre-order and wait a little longer, see what news come up in the coming days/weeks? I doubt Moza will be shipping their new FFB sticks before end of the year anyway(?).

Yeah, it seems like 2025 will be year of the FFB flight sticks ressurgence. Virpil has something planned as well (to be announced soon?). https://forum.virpil.com/index.php?/topic/21078-back-from-fsexpo-2024-force-feedback/

I concur on some points, but not on others. I had the VKB NXT Gladiator and it's a really good stick, almost perfect for those who don't use a dedicated cockpit (i.e, HOTAS on a table, or mounted to the sides of their chair). Awesome feeling, durable and affordable flight stick? Yes, it's the proof it can be done. The major gripe I had with the VKB NXT Gladiator was the small deflection on both Axis, so much that it eventually took a toll on my experience and I just couldn't keep using it. And I'm seeing that the WW Ursa Minor has even less deflection on both Axis than the VKB Gladiator..... I ended selling the VKB NXT Gladiator to a friend, and getting a used TM Warthog stick from a fellow member of this forum. The TM Warthog stick imediately felt much better (still does) for me. And, regardless of the ball and socket gimbal bad rep (it's older inferior tech), I have never regretted the move. My flight-sim experience (mostly with the F-14B module, my favorite) has increased pretty noticeably. Really, I only wish it had FFB. Where I think you probably hit a good point (knowingly or unknowingly) is, that FFB stick iterations of what the VKB Gladiator and WW Ursa Minor are today, will eventually come. It just won't be now, because the "mainstream" (as in "non boutique") FFB stick market has just reborn. There will be plenty small obstacles (software and reliability, for instances) with mostly "early adopters" who don't mind paying and going through that. And manufacturers need to create the biggest imediate impact (image and product wise) while getting the biggest profit margin per unit. Which more expensive and complicated "bigger" flight sticks, like those announced, will suit. The more affordable sticks, like FFB iterations of the VKB Gladiator and WW Ursa Minor, would (and will, I think) obfuscate all that. Their time will eventually come.

As far as I know, all those mods you've listed are installed in the "Saved Games" folder. Which means then that there should be no issues and you won't lose them (i.e, will work same as they currently do). So, whichever of the two methods you choose to move your DCS main installation, you're OK. Either by the "cut/paste" method (to move it from one NVME drive to the other), or by uninstall DCS and reinstall it on the new drive. There should be no issues with the mods you list.

Yes, I'd only bother with the "cleanup/repair" if there's some issue that you can't solve. As for the mods, it depends on the mods that you are using. Most mods are instaled in the "Saved Games" folder (located in "C:\Users\"your-user-name"\Saved Games\DCS"). As said, this "Saved Games" folder is to be left where it currently is, on your Corsair NVME. No matter where you install DCS, it'll will always look up for that specific folder, to run your game settings, controller settings, password, and also mods. So, it is of no concern, just forget about this one. Any mods in there will still work. But there are a few mods that alter original files, and are installed in the main DCS installation folder - which is the "big one" you'll be moving to the new NVME drive. As said before, you have two ways to get DCS onto the new drive. But one of the two ways will lose such mods: If you use the "Cut/Paste" method, all of the content inside the main installation folder is moved, so everything in it will work as before - including such mods. (that's also why I prefer it) If you intend to uninstall DCS, to reinstal to the other NVME, then such mods will be lost in the process (the uninstallation process wipes everything in that main folder). Also note, the "cleanup/repair" also deletes such mods - it wipes any "non official" files inside the main installation folder, and reverts everything inside it back to "stock". It does not touch the "Saved Games" folder though, so everything inside that one is always safe. Do you know which mods you are currently using?

I'll it say again - that's what I'd do (cut/paste way). But if you feel uninstall then reinstall in the new drive is simpler and safer, then go for that instead. Do what is easier for you. If all went well, yes that is it. You'll be done and ready to go. In some rare cases, files can get corrupted (sometimes happens with large file transfers). If an error does happen during the start of DCS, or during the gameplay, then you may want to run a DCS cleanup/repair. For that, if necessary, then follow this tutorial in the official DCS website: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/support/faq/repair/ I'll quote: And if the very worst happens (panic, the game gone kaput!!) then you can always directly contact the support from ED: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/support/ They're a helpful bunch in my experience.

Nah, don't copy the saved games folder. Leave that one as it is in your Corsair NVME. You only need to move the DCS installation (yeah, the big one!) to the new NVME drive. You can do this either by the "cut/paste" way (to move it from one drive to the other), or to uninstall DCS and reinstall it on the new drive. One way or the other, do what is easier for you. And either way, you will not lose save games and configurations. Some people prefer to uninstall DCS and reinstall it all over again on the new drive. It's simpler, but it does take longer time because it has to download all the files. Personally, I just go with what I'm accustomated with - I'd go the "cut/paste" route. But it may be complicated for some people. This is how I'd do it:

Nice, you're already inspecting territory for the soon to be coming procedure.! hehe That "disc 0 partition 1" with 499MB that you see there is the EFI system partition, also known as "Boot Drive" (more like "boot partition", actually). That's required for Windows to start. The EFI system partition is a partition on your main disk that is used by computers adhering to the Unified Extensible Firmware Interface (UEFI). Your motherboard uses UEFI, and that EFI Partition is an interface for the computer to boot Windows off of. It's like a step taken, before it runs the Windows partition. It's really small as you can see (499MB) but, basically, without that partition your computer wouldn't know how to boot Windows. To resume.... everything is absolutely fine there in your Corsair NVME.

We're going off-topic, and I'm afraid this is going to cause confusion (pardon the long post) but, I guess, it's worth commenting for general knowledge (if any interest). There is a huge misconception regarding "Dram-less" NVME drives. This is due to the stigma of ultra-budget (and older) QLC "Dram-less" drives that have flooded the market. Which noone wants (nor should get) because those NVME drives get to HDD write speeds when heavily loaded. I'd certainly agree that those are crap, they're awful NVME drives. But noone has recommended those in here (I certainly didn't). There are great quality and really fast Gen4 "Dram-less" drives which are TLC based, and they are well worth the attention. For example, the WD SN770 and the newer LEXAR NM790 (among others) are very highly praised (rightly so), because they are competitive even if put against the best models with DRAM cache, and are available at far more affordable prices. And while "Dram-less", these drives do have their own cache, it simply isn't physical (and hence is cheaper!) -> SLC cache. This is, just like DRAM cache, to keep higher speed at continuous data transfers, in this case up to a certain limit (270GB in the case of the LEXAR NM790 4TB), it's only after hitting such limit that speeds decrease. It may look like 270GB is small cache (when taking 4TB into account) but it's not, it's still big enough for nearly all workloads. And there is no game or sim in current or upcoming exhistence that can even reach that limit, not even close! When the data burst is stopped, the (SLC) cache is refreshed, and therefore available again. Which is exactly the process that always happens with whatever sim/game, because the files ingame (in any game or sim) are loaded in bursts, not in a single continuous (i.e, sustained) transfer. All this to say: these are perfect as a second NVME drive (or third, or fourth) for gaming systems and real world usage. It's exactly their purpose, what they were designed for. Now, if you're going to use only one single NVME in your system, or if you're the type of user that is into really heavy (sustained) read/write workloads then, sure, get the more expensive drive with big physical DRAM cache. That's what makes sense then - it's what they're designed for, and are better for it. Otherwise, if you're adding another NVME drive to your system just for gaming purposes (even most demanding ones), it's not worth paying extra for one of these, and I don't care what ubber gaming rig it is for. It's paying more for something that, while valid for the specs, is extremely unlikely to ever provide benefits for anyone's gaming experience. Which also applies (even more!) to latest Gen5 drives (PCIe 5.0 x4). They're meant for enthusiasts and professional applications (where they can make some difference) where "time VS cost" can be beneficial to business, even at such prices. No game today sees any advantage whatsoever with NVME Gen5 drives, and the biggest fool is the one buying a separate Gen5 drive today thinking his gaming experiences will benefit with it, now or in near future, when they're still double the price(!!) and run really hot (they all surpass 75ºC when loaded). Compromises in everything are just so big with Gen5 drives, that these are, for now, rightfully reknowned as the absolute "emperor's new clothes" on a gaming system. BTW, the "future proof" argument for Gen5 drives doesn't apply to gaming either (it's like snake oil). And it won't really differ in coming years, the gaming industry has pretty much stagnated, generally still in (somewhat of) an ongoing crisis. Direct Storage on PC hasn't been getting much traction, it will be years before it's even relevant. 99% of newer games are GPU starved, and will remain so. Not drive, not RAM, not CPU limited (provided you have a decent well rounded system, that is), no matter if 2D or VR. The NVME market is then about having different products for specific purposes and use cases. Like the WD SN770 before it, the LEXAR NM790 is a "budget" NVME drive for no other fact that it's "Dram-less". The lower prices compared to far more expensive drives with physical DRAM cache (like the WD SN850X and SAMSUNG 990PRO), comes down to that. No physical memory, no added cost of production and lower final price. Therefore, the lower price of the mentioned quality "Dram-less" drives (WD SN770 and LEXAR NM790) doesn't have anything to do with shortcuts, bad construction or bad quality, it has everything to do with specific use case. Know what is right for you before opening your wallet, if the money difference gets to be important. That is all. EDIT: reviews and "versus" benchmarks of the LEXAR NM790 4TB: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/lexar-nm790-4-tb/16.html https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lexar-nm790-ssd-review/2 https://www.kitguru.net/components/ssd-drives/simon-crisp/lexar-nm790-4tb-ssd-review/4/ https://www.pcmag.com/reviews/lexar-nm790 https://www.servethehome.com/lexar-nm790-4tb-ssd-review/ https://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/lexar-nm790/ https://thepcenthusiast.com/lexar-nm790-m-2-ssd-4tb-review/ https://www.dexerto.com/tech/lexar-nm790-4tb-review-2364095/

For games, and even intensive ones like DCS, you will not notice difference in performance or behaviour per se. The difference between WD SN850X and LEXAR NM790 is mainly down to the internal memory, which the SN850X does have, and the NM790 does not ("dram-less"). So, the SN850X has its own dedicated DRAM to use, while the NM790 will instead use the system's RAM if and when needed. Without going too far and complicated, it's useful to have internal memory on the NVME to maintain very long and heavy read+write transfers consistently fast for longer periods. For example, for video conversion, and other professional inclined aplications that are very heavy drive data workloads (think, for instances, youtube content creators, etc). But, let's be real, even demanding games like DCS are only going to intermittently read files, ocasionally writting others, in bursts from the drive. And, as constant as that seems to us when in the game, and as big as some files are, for super fast "dram-less" drives like the NM790 that is "peanuts", really. And no, it won't "eat", choke or impair your system RAM at all (you won't even notice it). Doesn't change the fact that the SN850X is better for having its own memory though. To resume..... If this would be the only NVME in your system with Windows (etc) together with games, or frequently doing heavy read+write transfers, then I'd recommend the SN850X. If this is an additional NVME, for games and etc, differences won't be noticed at all (either will be awesome for this), then I'd say to save the money and get the NM790.

If it's an additional NVME drive just for games and archives, then I'd say to have a look on the LEXAR NM790 4TB (£234,00). This is a really fast drive that is more affordable simply because it's dram-less (i.e, no internal memory, it uses the system's), which makes no difference for whatever sims/games. https://www.scan.co.uk/products/4tb-lexar-nm790-ssd-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-3d-nvme-ssd-tlc-7400mb-s-read-6500mb-s-write-pc-ps5 But if you want one that is among the bestest and fastest NVMEs out there, with internal memory, then it's hard to go wrong with the well proven WD SN850X 4TB (£290,00): https://www.scan.co.uk/products/4tb-wd-black-sn850x-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-ssd-7300mb-s-read-6600mb-s-write-pc-ps5 I also have a Corsair MP600 ProXT 2TB and, while I have no complaints (I like it a lot), there are other models from other brands that are also Gen4 (PCIe 4.0 x4) and just as fast (if not more) and also reliable, which you can buy with confidence. Such as those two I just mentioned. No need to get Corsair again, really.

I see that you have an ASUS TUF B650+ motherboard, and you also have a nice and fat RTX4090 graphics-card. That's a nice setup there, congrats. You can install the new additional NVME without removing the graphics-card, but it may be a bit tight for your hands, in regards to space, to handle things (see picture below). If it is too tight for you to do the work, then yes remove the graphics-card before placing the new NVME drive. NOTE: if you do remove it, once refitting it make sure the cable on the graphics-card is well plugged in, completely inserted and tight. That is a sensitive piece. The whole process is done in two phases, 1) the physical installation of the drive and 2) the activation of the new drive on Windows. I'll leave two videos below, hoping it makes sense and is easy enough to understand (which it is, you'll see). This first video is a step-by-step guide on the whole process, it's a "How to Install and Activate a Second NVME Drive on a Windows 11 PC" (note, it's the same on Windows 10). Nice and simple, good to learn. But please notice that his motherboard is not same as yours. You can ignore the part of this video where he lays and tighten screws to attach the NVME, as you won't need that (yours will be as on video below of the guy with the gloves). Now this second video is the installation of the new NVME in a fairly similar motherboard to yours. Please note that he's installing it on the most upper slot (that one in yours should be already populated), but it's the same procedure on the lowest slots (in the picture you took), which is where you'll want to install that new second NVME. With the heatsink cover removed there in the lowest slots, you'll see that there's two NVME slots to chose - one or the other doesn't matter, both work the same. And that's it, should be pretty much the same on your motherboard. And yes, ignore the gloves, you won't need them. Lastly, if you can afford it, then I'd say to get a 4TB. But it's still very expensive (at about $340 +/-), hence why it's usually not recomended to go above 2TB (at about $170). You don't need that much space (and 2TB is still a lot of space!) but it's nice to have so much of it and not worrying about it for years, especially on supper dupper fast NVMEs, for huge size modules of DCS and other games/sims installed on the same drive. That is up to you, it's your call.

I've been following the Rhino and FFBeast with great curiosity but, yes, it is "boutique" material for a different type of customer. It is the "large scale" business that can provoque popularity of such products, for a much larger userbase. It has been many years since the MS SW FF2 and Logi G940, and I had nearly lost hope for modern and better iterations, from the usual manufacturers in the business. Watching this announcement from Moza felt like "yep... it has begun". And now the WinWing image above posted by @Biggus. Looks awfully similar to the Moza in a strangely coincidental time period (maybe a partnership?). If this succeeds - which I think it will - I can't believe brands like Thrustmaster will pass on the chance to also get into it (they produce FFB wheels, won't be unfamiliar tech). With all the others following suite.

Understood. Gosh, you're in for a treat! Like going from a decrepit skoda to a brand new ferrari.

Already some first impressions on youtube..... If the author is reading these forums, nicely done. Many thanks for doing it so soon. Looking forward for indepth reviews (want to see TheNOOBIFIER1337 doing it).

Is that a flight stick with FFB??

Has said, the original build is good, just not perfect. Honestly, I think you have already enough info to make decisions, and try to negotiate changes with the seller for that original build. So let's see where it could be better: 64GB of RAM, instead of 32GB. This is important. It doesn't matter if it's 6000 CL30, 6000 CL32 or 6000 CL36, or if it's a kit of two or four sticks (though you already know where I stand in that matter), difference is too little to be worried about. What you need is to ensure that it is rock-solid stable, for a reliable system. Needs an equally good motherboard that has WiFi support features, since you mentioned you'll use wireless internet (some suggestions already posted in here). RTX4070 12GB is "good enough" for 1440P. But it has been replaced by the newer and better RTX4070 Super 12GB, which has similar price. There's also the RTX4070Ti Super 16GB (which replaced the RTX4070Ti 12GB), far more expensive, but more potent and has more VRAM, better for DCS in high settings. Either way, you already know which models to avoid. Lastly, and regarding the 1440P monitor. Allow me some suggestions, based on personal experience. First, the size. I think a good 16:9 monitor with 32'' screen size is a nice size for flight-sims with a single-screen, and the biggest you can go for native 1440P resolution. Second, the panel type. I'd say to go for IPS, and not VA or TN. Yes, there are also OLED monitors now, but they're all still too expensive, and still susceptible to burn-in. Price to performance, a good IPS panel is the better choice for DCS, because of the clarity in motion (motion handling), very important especially if using head-tracking (TrackIR, etc) and for when you need to focus on something at the same time that you are maneuvering (like you would in real life). You'll notice it, for example, in BFM, or over forests, or simply focusing on objects while in movement. It's in these situations where a good IPS panel just feels more natural (and no ghosting or motion-blur issues) when compared to VA or TN panels. I've briefly tested and can recommend the Asus TUF VG32AQL1A, the LG 32GP850, the LG 32GP750 (these are G-Sync), and the Gigabyte M32Q (this is FreeSync). These are 32'' 1440P IPS monitors that are good for flight-sims, and are very reasonably priced (between 270,00 €ur and 400,00 €ur, depending on region and availability).

I agree with @mikko.1842, no longer worth buying a new (expensive) system equiped with RTX3070Ti 8GB (previous generation, of 2020!). DCS can (and will) use over 10GB right from the start, even at 1080P. Then the odd B760 motherboard and "K" CPU combo, and also that DeepCool PF700 80+ PSU "Tier-C" model (which is short on capacity and rating) should not be used on higher(ish)-end gaming systems... Resuming: avoid it. The original system that you have listed in your first post is not perfect but, no doubt, is far more capable for DCS at 1440P.

oh boy..... Are you sure the other builder is not going to be a better alternative? Personally, I'd favor a motherboard model with own WiFi support features from factory. All of these motherboards that I'll list below have a wireless communication module (WiFi 6E) and are, in my opinion, the best choices for their price range. B650 motherboard with WiFi 6E. These are of same segment and identical price to the ASRock B650 Pro RS in your list. B650 motherboards don't have support for PCIe5.0 in main PCIe slot. They may or may not have support for one Gen5 NVME drive. Hence the lower price. This makes no difference for the hardware that you intend to use now. But in the near future GPUs will use it. And you may also wish to get a Gen5 NVME SSD in the future... MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WIFI (215,00 €ur +/-) Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX V2 (225,00 €ur +/-) B650E motherboard with WiFi 6E. These are more refined but also more expensive. B650E motherboards have PCIe5.0 support in main PCIe slot, along with the support for Gen5 NVME SSD. ASRock B650E PG Riptide WiFi (250,00 €ur +/-) ASRock B650E Steel Legend WiFi (260,00 €ur +/-) ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi (280,00 €ur +/-)

And he is not wrong. About the 3080Ti 12GB, better forget it. It may be a little bit faster than 4070 but it's now older generation, consumes a lot more power, runs much hotter, and price is inflated. Between the RTX4070 12GB and the newer RTX4070 Super 12GB (which is better) there's about 15% difference in performance, price should reflect that. The RTX4070Ti Super 16GB is far more expensive, but it's yet another 15% faster than 4070S (so, over 30% faster than the 4070) and has 16GB of VRAM, much better for DCS. I think it's worth getting the 4070Ti Super 16GB if you have the budget. Most manufacturer models are generally good, but some should be avoided because of mediocre cooling design (regardless of being 4070/Super, or 4070Ti Super). EDIT: If you're interested in some sort of "comparison/examination" between manufacturer models, these videos may be worth a look: www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYRPRARMcf8 www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5b2YF9POP4 To resume, it's better to avoid the lower tier models (red and orange, "C" and "F") in the list in there at the end of those videos.

Yep, RX 7900XT runs pretty hot, but responds well to undervolting - this video tutorial may interest you: youtube.com/watch?v=2aCCaIx5Kk0&t=250s

Which is an Intel XMP based kit. It's not like it's a major problem but, IMO, it's a sign the seller could have done better. I don't think that four sticks of that RAM are guaranteed to work without problems on AM5. It's a gamble (or risk) that may or may not be worth taking, when later adding two more sticks... But hey it's your money and your rig, it's your call. I'll stick to a previous point, which others here already pointed out as well - DCS is a friggin hog on RAM. You mentioned you play DCS in Multiplayer, 32GB will definitely become short in Multiplayer, even with solutions to help like a largely increased pagefile. Which means you'll want 64GB of RAM sooner rather than later, that is certain. If you're spending good money on a brand new gaming PC, for DCS, then it makes all the sense to go for 64GB RAM right away. The best 64GB kits for AM5 platform and 7000 CPUs are 64GB (2x 32GB) 6000 CL30. It makes sense to get one because price should not be a problem if compared to other 64GB kits with higher latency and/or slower speeds. But then I have no idea how are the prices and stock of RAM kits in Russia. My advice is to contact the seller. Enquire about a possible change in the memory on that system (which they should test before delivering!) according to your wishes, for 64GB total (not 32GB), then make a deal. I do agree that you should make sure the seller stands behind what they sell (absolutely) so that you are assisted by them in case any problem arises.

Nice deal, enjoy!