GTFreeFlyer

Absolutely. There’s a note about that in the mission description. In short, you’ll need to pull the script out of the .miz and modify the fuel tank capacity, save, reload into the .miz. The script is well-documented and you’ll see exactly what to do once you open it.

I think we're all wondering about that. It might be damage to the carrier deck. I'm not 100% sure. There's another thread on that in here, but no definitive answer that I'm aware of. If your plane is still working, go for another lap!

However, I will add, that this might still be a bug because I see no reason why the right gear won't extend once the left gear and flaps are in their full down position after you were slow enough. The pressure in the hyd lines should recover at this point and be able to pop the uplock on the right gear. I'm not quite sure how the system is modeled or how it behaved IRL. Something worth noting.

Updated today with fence-in and diving checklists

Alright, I think I got this one and can help you... So you need to drop the gear, wait for them to down-lock, before dropping the flaps. If you take another look, you can see you put in full 50 deg flaps and were somewhere around 120-140 knots (my short term memory already forgot the speed I just witnessed moments ago). The flaps couldn't push their way down into the airflow and were stuck at maybe 20-30 degrees by the look of it. The flaps were in their "blow back up" state, which means the hydraulic valve was still stuck open, trying to feed more hyd oil to the flap actuators. All of your hydraulic pressure was consumed for this task and not enough oil flow and pressure was diverted to the landing gear. It's apparent you are not flying with a checklist because you missed a few other things as well. These were not related to the landing gear issue: Fuel tank selector needs to be on reserve, and mixture full rich for landings. The checklist also calls for gear first, then hook, then flaps after slowing to 100-110 knots. Have a look at some official checklists and follow them exactly until you get the hang of things, and then continue to use checklists before you find out that complacency kills. If you'd like, search for my Corsair checklists which I have uploaded in this forum, as well as the user files section. Install them, and make sure you wear out the Shift+K keys on your keyboard. I collected the info from game manuals, old 1940's training videos, and the actual POH, and compiled the info together. I've been flying my Corsair per these lists and don't really ever have any issues with the Corsair, knock on wood! Anyway, I think you'll be good from now on. Track files for the win! Send more any time Cheers, -GT-

Still is strange. Upload the track anyway. I’ll ignore the visual display. I’m curious to see the flight parameters because I have still not experienced this, and would like to see if there’s anything I can learn to avoid it, and of course share with you.

You can hit the pause key instead of ESC next time, and you won’t have the menu in the way FYI, temperature limits are not the only thing that will cause the engine to stop. There’s fuel, internal damage to the engine, fuel pump going bad, etc. All of which are currently modeled based on what I’ve been reading. If there was a track file to share, someone here would be able to point to exactly what happened. See if you can replicate it, and share the track.

Correct, this one gets me every now and then as well. I’m getting better about it. Follow the dive checklist from the POH prior to entering the dive, and it has you consciously close them, which helps to remember to reopen them after the dive is complete.

I have a bass shaker connected to an amp, which is connected a USB sound card. Picked it all up on Amazon a few years ago for a little less than $150 IIRC.

Interesting. I haven’t had this one yet. I’ve had it where the right gear won’t go up, but it’s usually after a little bouncy takeoff and an error on my behalf. For my own curiosity, can you post the track file? We have no idea if you had a bad takeoff, got shot up by bandits, etc. Really need to provide more info when throwing up a post like this, otherwise I don’t think anyone would be able to help.

Thanks! Glad to help. The mass of the prop will only really eat up some power if you are constantly accelerating/decelerating it. As for your question: I'll refrain from trying to answer this one because I only have limited IRL combat experience (banging head on keyboard, punching fist thru monitor, smashing printers in an open field , etc), and prefer not to give any incorrect info. In DCS, I try not to change throttle much at all, even in combat. Try to manage your energy. Come in for a high speed dive, take your shots, zoom on by and regain the energy up high for the next pass, ideally without touching my throttle or RPM. If things get complicated with the bandit and I'm in a bind, I'll push it up to 2700 RPM only when slow on speed and I need to accelerate quickly, then I'll pull RPM down a little again to keep some speed and not run in first gear too much. Is it the correct way? I dunno. I'm always learning. It works for me, but then again, I also get shot up a lot I'm much more comfortable with the engineering stuff over combat

Yup, I use SimShaker. Just sharing here that if you go this route, you will need to get their current beta version for the Corsair feedback. They just added the Corsair recently, but haven't moved it to their stable release yet. I've flown with it for a few days now, no issues, just in case beta stuff scares you, which would be ironic flying the Corsair

It helps to understand some of the science here. Here’s what I can offer to help appreciate the bird a little more. If you already know this stuff, then please ignore me, but I’ll post it for those in the community who may not know it: Max power does not equal max speed. Max power refers to engine power, not the power that is converted and comes out of the prop to propel you forward. Max engine power just eat up more fuel. If you’re running at 2700 and expecting high speed, try running a car or bicycle in 1st gear. It’s similar. The propellers need to take more bite out of the air when flying quickly. So why then would the engine be putting out so much power, without a lot of speed? Well, look up propeller advance ratios. It’s analogous to the angle of attack of a wing’s airfoil. When a propeller is running flat with high airspeed, you are way off the maximum efficiency point for the propeller’s airfoil. The propeller would be doing a terrible job at converting mechanical power (equal to torque times RPM) into propulsive power (which is equal to thrust times velocity). This is the sole purpose of a propeller: Convert the power. If your propeller is only 20% efficient here (a reasonable number for low advance ratios caused by high RPM and not a lot of forward movement), then for every 100 HP the propeller can put out, the engine must supply 500 HP. For max speed, you want to find the point where the propeller airfoils are operating at their most efficient local angle of attack. With variable pitch props, prop efficiency can be brought up in the neighborhood of around 80% to 85%. You’ll never get 100% because the blade will always slip a little in the air when chopping at it. So for that same 500 HP from the engine, you now have so much more speed from the power conversion because the propeller is only wasting 20% the supplied power now, simply by changing the blade pitch, even when at a LOWER RPM, just like your car or bicycle. How do we find this optimum point where we can maximize our prop efficiency? As pilots, we use the charts the engineers put together for us since we don’t have direct control over blade pitch, or what would be even better, the advance ratio. As an aerospace engineer myself, I’ve spent lots of time in wind tunnels over my career with propellers collecting this data, and publishing performance charts. I love this stuff and can talk about it all day. It’s tough to grasp at first, but if you ever want to know more, just shoot me a message. You mentioned above that you could barely get above 200 knots. I just did a flight earlier today at 5,000 feet, cruising conservatively at 2200 RPM and around 33 MP and was moving around 210-220 kts indicated, which is around 235 knots true. Try it out. I could have pushed it even faster if I played around with the MP and RPM, but I was just cruising to save fuel when flying back to the boat. Propeller efficiency is a huge deal, and you’re not going to get good efficiency at 2700 RPM unless you are very slow, because the blades are flattened out. Jets move faster or slower based on your throttle position. Warbirds are completely different. Just remember that RPM control has nothing to do with setting the RPM on your engine. The RPM lever controls a governor that is linked to blade pitch. So, when you pull the RPM lever back, you may actually be INCREASING thrust because now your blades will start biting into the air. Yeah, I’ll agree that some things with this module need tweaking near the edge of the envelopes of altitudes, temperatures, ground handling etc, but for the most part, this plane feels pretty good, and operates very closely to the charts when flown correctly. Not too bad for its early access, incompleted, state. I uploaded a quick test mission with a script that shows you engine diagnostics. Spend 5 minutes with it. It’s an air start, so you can quickly start playing with different throttle and RPM settings and see their effect in real time. It’s a great learning tool. Hope you found this helpful, -GT-

I had previously shared a link to my kneeboards in various other threads. If you have been using my version, please update them to the ones I posted just now. Rudel posted the engine performance charts that we should be using, and I've updated them into my checklists here. Enjoy https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3345803/

Great to know! Thanks for sharing. A couple of the guys in vCTF-58 were testing this out not long ago and came to the same conclusion.