James DeSouza

Were they definitely hellfire attacks? I know rocket runs are done in a dive because it allows the nose to be more stable.

This is a probably stupid question but I still want to ask. I have bad eyes and am using VR. I am trying to figure out if the use of zoom is "authentic" or not. I assume pilots would use binoculars as it just makes sense (which would make zoom "authentic"), but at the same time I have never heard of the use of them by pilots or seen pictures of it. Having never actually used a pair myself I don't know if there's something about them that would make them unusable while flying.

Hello, I was thinking of getting a drawing tablet that also has a screen such as the Huion Kamvas line to use with one of the open kneeboard mods for DCS. However since it is its own screen I assume it has a performance hit and so I was wondering if anyone had any personal experience and what kind of performance hits they got (if any). I am thinking of getting one with a screen, rather than the old style non screen ones, just because I don't like the non screen ones when I tried using them so I want a screen one just so I can potentially also use it as a drawing tablet. Thanks for any answers. Edit. Hmm, I just found out that apparently you can use an application called "Duet" to use an iPad as a drawing tablet. I coincidentally was given a throwaway Ipad recently. I will have to see if it is compatible with this iPad (it's old). So if anyone has any experience of that as well?

Hello, a little while ago I bought a second hand G940 so I could have force feedback. The advert said many of the axis (aside from the main throttle and stick ones) didn't work, oddly when it arrived all of the axis work almost flawlessly. The only problem I have had so far is that all of the axis very occasionally jump up or down 1% which barely effects me, the exception to this is the R2 rotary on the throttle which jumps up and down by about 5-10% almost continuously, jitters around even more if the throttle is moved and in certain throttle positions can only detect half of its actual axis' range of motion. I am wondering if there is any fix for this besides taking the joystick apart and trying to physically mess with it which is likely beyond me. For example the properties menu has a hysteresis option on it that I haven't touched as I have no idea what it does but I was wondering if this might have anything to do with it. Even if this axis doesn't get fixed though, it's still the nicest joystick and throttle I have ever used.

Seeing turbo electric cars reminds me of the turbo button that used to be on old early 90's PCs. What manufacturer markets a turbo EV by the way? Not seen it myself but don't really keep up with EVs (don't have the money for one that's worth buying).

The same image isn't being displayed in both eyes, you wouldn't have stereoscopic 3D if that were the case. And even if it was, it doesn't matter. It's still 8k horizontal pixels. Except the pimax salesman in this case quite literally IS using industry standard terminology. Xk does not refer to any specific resolution. There's multiple standards for each XK. Moving away from 4/8K for example is 2k. You've been using a 2k monitor for ages as 2k refers to 1920x1080. Except it also refers to 7 other major standards and a bunch of other minor ones. Or moving away from horizontal pixels you get into vertical pixels, such as 1440p which has roughly 10 major resolutions which fall under that label depending on aspect ratio. (Though I say major, since they were consumer products sold by all manufacturers, I think that "wide HD" thing has died out by now...) In this case the pimax salesman isn't using non standard terminology, you're just trying to rationalise an irrational hatred of his product.

It's not Pimax math. And it's not even a lie. X K is just horizontal pixel count, there's an assumed vertical pixel count as 16:9 is the standard, but it doesn't actually denote anything except horizontal pixel count (and even then doesn't denote a specific pixel count, just a rough range) and 2 4k screens is 8k horizontal pixels, just not at a 16:9 aspect ratio (somewhere like 7:2)

You might want to look up a program called FPSVR that is on steam (if you're using steam of course). It's paid software (though really cheap, £3 where I am) but it has a huge variety of options for placement, font and what you want displayed.

Hello, I am trying to figure out how to bind mouse functions to an index controller rather than using the default system which I find kind of awful. In my controller settings my indexes seem to be detected as a vive wand, however the controls displayed don't look right, for example I can bind the throttle on my "vive wand" to something. I wasn't aware a vive wand had a throttle. Specifically I would like to bind the trigger to be left mouse, the thumbstick's vertical axis to be mousewheel up/down and the thumbstick's depress button to be right mouse. This way I should be able to fully use any control. Additionally it would be nice to be able to bind the A button to hide the pilot's body. Is this possible? If so, what do I need to set to what? I might end up buying one of those VR gloves, if there's any of them still being made, but I'd rather hold off on that for now. Thanks for any answers.

I was considering the FFB2, but like you I wanted a stick with a decent amount of buttons on the stick itself since I play in VR and the G940 looked like the best FFB stick in terms of button layout/amount that wasn't buying a brand new Brunner. Thank you for the warning about the stick oscillation problem, it hadn't occurred to me. The first thing I did when testing if the FFB worked was cover those holes in tape as the reset defeated the purpose. Is it okay to let the stick start up with that tape on it, or might that cause issues with its start up calibration? To tell the truth I haven't used it much since getting it set up due to work. It seemed okay but I want it to last as long as it can. I am surprised it is working as well as it is considering it's around 2 decades old.

With the force feedback strength lower, the notchyness isn't that bad. Feels about equivalent to a brand new G29 wheel, which is to say noticeable but you tune it out easily enough. One question though that I feel like asking but wouldn't fit in the other thread so I will ask it here, when you turn the power off to it and unplug it, the stick just flops down to one of its mechanical stops and rests there. Is it okay to leave it like this, or are you supposed to rig up some way to keep the stick centered? Being used to sprung joysticks, this seems quite strange to me. Though I have to say, I much prefer the feeling of this stick to any sprung joystick I have ever had. The way you can have as much or as little resistance as you want on the fly while still having it center itself or act like a helicopter cyclic is quite nice.

It causes all kinds of issues with older software for some reason, and it also eats into your performance too though it's not so bad. It is in Win 10 but disabled by default and is in Win 11 and on by default unless you upgraded your Win 11 from Win 10 in which case it stays off for some reason. If I wasn't so stupid it would have occurred to me to disable it sooner, rather than needing to be prompted, but I got there in the end. Windows 11 is actually quite a compatability nightmare. For example if games aren't on an up to date enough runtime (I can't remember the specifics) Win 11 just flat out won't launch them, Motorsport Manager being one of the games I own that has this problem. Except for some Win 11 users if they completely unplug the PC from the internet it will allow them to launch the game and for some it won't (it won't for me). So you have to edit a bunch of things in your registry to disable the check for these runtimes, but then that causes newer programs to break. Because of all this, if you aren't using a 12th gen intel it's just an objectively bad idea to use Win 11.

I am on Win 11 (21H2 specifically) as I have a 12 gen intel and you get better performance on that. I am also on LGS 5.10.127. I tried disconnecting the joystick, then uninstalling and reinstalling LGS, then seeing if it will detect the joystick. All that happened was the system stopped detecting the joystick entirely. I noticed however, when the joystick isn't being detected at all there are 2 entries for G940 in the hardware manager, one has HID in brackets next to it along with an error icon, apparently the driver is corrupted. If I uninstall both of these G940 entries in the device manager the system gets recognised by my PC again, labelled as G940 in the game controllers menu, but in the device manager is just labelled as a generic "HID-Compliant Game Controller". Hmm, there is a setting in Win 11 and Win 10, but it is off by default in Win 10, that can cause some things to not install correctly. Unfortunately I can't for the life of me remember what that setting is. Possibly this is causing the driver not to install correctly... AH I remember what the setting is now. It is core isolation/memory integrity. Do you have that off on your system? I am kind of hesitant to turn it off, but if you do then that might be the solution. I disabled core isolation and tried reinstalling everything again. It works. Very nice. Though I am a little spooked about turning off security... Best part is that I also cludged the handgrip part of a Thrustmaster TWCS into the G940 on the left hand throttle since it had no controls by default, so now I have 8 axis and 37 buttons on my throttle lmao. I almost forgot to say, as I was so excited to have a working cyclic! Thank you for the help Drakoz and thank you for the upgraded firmware Fred.

I tried this updated firmware and my G940 isn't even being recognised as plugged in anymore. And I can't even install the old firmware on it, as it is no longer recognised by the firmware installed either. Magnificent. So I looked around in my device manager and there was two G940's in there, one with HID in the name and one without. Uninstalling both of those caused the computer to recognise the G940 again, and this firmware update means the stick is actually smooth compared to how it was at first, but it isn't detected by the Logitech Gaming Software so I have no force feedback (or at least I assume this is the reason I have no FFB).

After using a force feedback steering wheel I have wanted a force feedback joystick as I quite like force feedback. I saw a G940 going for dirt cheap so got my hands on it. But I have a few questions about getting it started; A) It isn't being detected by either Ghub or the Logitech Gaming Software program. Is this normal? B) I saw on a tutorial for getting it set up on MSFS 2020 that you can use the logitech profiler software to set it up, which you can download from logitech's page. However I cannot find a logitech profiler anywhere on logitech's page. C) How do you check what the firmware version is? In order to see if I need to upgrade. D) It doesn't have force feedback yet, I assume because of A and B. It just has resistance from the motors right now. That resistance is very obviously notchy though, like I am slipping over gear teeth or something like that. It feels like a more extreme version of the way the G29 feels. Is this normal for a G940? Thanks for any answers. Hmm, it looks like I need an older version of LGS for the device to work. Why would they stop supporting a device like this? It's quite strange. Actually never mind, the older version of LGS can't recognise the stick either.

No. There's only absolute view controls and a set of "camera controls" which would be good for what I want but you can only bind the mouse to those. No relative view controls or tick box for relative axis controls, at least in my game.

I dont actually have the pedals, but for some reason the program treats the throttle as if it is one and the same as the pedals and they're both selected when you only select the throttle and they're both within the same "control unit" Anyway no, not enough axis. Stick has 4 X, Y, Z and Throttle. Throttle has Throttle, pinky rotator, X, Y and Z

Well I figured out that you need to have the profile running through TARGET for it to work, which did actually give me the movement I want. However there is a problem that TARGET is collapsing my joystick and throttle into one "virtual device" and there is not enough axis for it. Which makes me wonder how people using pedals and the dual throttle things like the Warthog can get this to work. Can you stop it from collapsing your devices? As far as I can see you cant have it run two different profiles at once. Oh never mind, just my idiocy hitting me again. I dont actually need the stick to be part of the profile so I dont have a problem with numbers of axis. One odd thing I notice actually, the TARGET software thinks the topmost HAT on the throttle is a 4 way HAT when in reality it is 8 way. I wonder why. It's the right throttle... This is pretty good then. Everything seems to be working as intended except for occasional random snapping.

How would I go about binding that? I see no option to type anything in to the bindings settings, except for the modifier section but putting that in the modifier section didnt work. I am pretty stupid so you will have to baby me along. Figured out how to set it to relative in the thrustmaster editor at least. Do I need to have the editor permanently open for it to stay set like that (I have kept it open, just wondering).

I have the T1600m HOTAS, and I like using the joystick on the throttle more than a hat. However using the joystick means that your view is set to the value of the joystick. Is there any way I can rebind this, to make it work more like the joystick on a console game (ie the joystick moves your view in the direction it's held and no input means stationary view)?

What the hell is kwanzaa? Now if only I could remember the rest of this quote...

I am posting here because apparently you need to have posted X number of times before you can start a thread and I want to start a support thread. I am my name and I am an ass, that's about it.