Gadroc

Yea! Got time on the CNC today and got the left hand console cut out. I need to head back tomorrow morning with one more piece of wood to cut the last front rib. I still need to sand down and clean up the tabs then get it all screwed together and painted. Here are some pictures of the dry fit I did at the shop.

You have to parse the clickabedata.lua file for those items. I have several posts explaining how to do so if you do some searching.

Flim indicated he used .02" tolerance for notches in his kits. I was resizing the notches to meet that. Not all ply is .7 there is true .75 but the birch Home Depot and Lowes sell is only .7 which is what I have easy access to. I'm not sure what real .75 ply costs either.

Ok. Run is full and parts are ordered. I've got most of the acrylic cut out and ready to start assembly.

Anyone cut this out yet and try it? I'm looking in more detail and it looks like the notch joints will have a lot of play in them, especially since the plywood I was going to get is actually .7 not .75 inches.

Looks good! I'll say that seat look a damn sight more comfy than my ACES II replica. :D

You could look into using a matrox dual head to go to connect both 8" to the secondary port on the card. At one point that's how I had my 8" hooked in.

Yea I checked digikey, mouser, newark, allied for push pull switches. They are just not common at all. The ones you linked are all huge electrical cut off emergency stop switches. The closes I can find would be "alternate latching" push buttons, but those are not easy to find either. The ones I've found are not much cheaper than the price list indicates on the otto page for the real thing (assuming I don't get stuck with a huge minimum buy).

Cut the prototype of my fuel control panel today. The cut settings on the faceplate where wrong so It's a little marred, but it mostly came out good. Also got most of my switches in the other day. I still need to find a vendor for the push pull switches for the fill disables. They currently have push on / push off button in them, but they don't latch so there is no way to tell whether they are on or off.

Anyone know of any vendors who sell Otto parts? They seem hard to find.

Bingo. Otto Switches Part #P1-72632.

Sigh. You know it's going to fun to source a part when searching for the part number results in your post asking about it as the #4 hit on google when searching for the part number. Online components has no pricing, not listed in Powell or Verical either. MS25089-3G-1 doesn't look to be a manufacturers part number or is it? Do you know if Honeywell makes this and if so what is their part #?

I use a 13 gallon dust collector from harbor freight. I just didn't use the dust collection back and routed it out of the house with semi rigid HVAC pipe.

Thanks. Hmmm wonder if this is the right one.

Anyone have any part numbers or hints on what to look for for these switches? I'm looking for either a push/pull one or a push on / push off switch which changes height for push on/off. The NKK push on/push off I got don't stay depressed when on.

Yea I have lucked out with the local collective workshop. The laser 60W Epilog Mini 18 at my workshop is $35 an hour. The laser has more expensive consumables (honeycomb table vs MDF cutting beds, laser tube probably costs more than a router, etc...) than CNC router table. Basically the amount of experimenting needed on the panels to get them lit correctly and fit electronics is why I bought my own. Cheap K40 Laser $700 DSP Controller Board $485 2x Stepper Drivers $45 x 2 = $90 Egg Crate Cutting Bed $30 Air Compressor $80 Exhaust Fan $130 $1515 = 43 hours at $35 an hour Cutting Panels at home = Priceless If I where a little more patient with buggy software I could pull the DSP and Stepper drivers out... but I'm not.

Nice! Didn't take too long varies in meaning whether I'm running my own machine or renting one by the hour. ;) Doing 10 extra 1/8 drill operations and cutting the cutting time in half is well worth it for me at $25 an hour.

I'll setup 1/8" drill in the corners and cut with a quarter inch bit. The pocket on the upper side is 1/4" wide so that shouldn't be a problem.

Wow. Cutting 3/4" material with an 1/8" bit is going to take some time that's about 6 passes. Have you cut this out yet? Are you planning MDF or Ply and what do you think each does to skinning later? Also for other it takes 6 2x4 sheets to fit it all, but you are not quite so packed meaning less little waste parts to secure.

Forth panel looks to be accounted for. Send me a PM if you are still interested and I may do a few more and I'll keep a backup list if someone needs to drop out.

Also firmware support for using a stepper driver for gauges is complete in EOS. Just have to design and fab a board which has the header for it... which I'll do when I get to that on my pit.

Active but slow development. The board for this one will be posted online over the next few weeks. The arduino interface shields are tested and posted online. Once I get the PCBs in for this board there will be another round of firmware development along with Helios support being created. I also have in development a general panel board which will have analog / digital inputs and a small number of digital outputs. This will be used for the Aux Avionics Power, Electric Power, Fuel Flow, Environmental Panel, SAS and a few others. My fuel flow panel is almost done in CorelDraw and a prototype will be cut this week sometime. I have the buttons coming for it on Monday.

Three of the full kits are spoken for now.

I'm doing a short run of CMSP panels for A-10C Cockpit builders. This panel is designed to use a 16x2 character LCD display. Below is a picture of the prototype panel. Panel The panel is entirely constructed out of cast acrylic cut out with a laser cutter. It is designed to be backlit with 14 high intensity LEDs. Faeplate is cut out of engrave-able plastic and has high contrast and great readability with out backlight. Included with the panel are all painted and engraved button caps designed to sit on top of 5mm high tactile buttons. Panel is designed to fit a parallel White on Black 16x2 LCD. Controller Board The controller board is a modified arduino which will speak the EOS bus protocol. It can either be hooked up to a EOS bus or talk directly to the computer via a USB/Serial converter cable available here. This controller has 21 digital inputs, 14 PWM controller backlight outputs (these are not individually addressable), LCD panel control, 1 analog input to control LCD brightness. Full Kit These kits include military spec toggle switches (non-locking so not the originals in the real panel, but high quality switches), high quality pot for brightness control, adjustable stop 10 position rotary switch, tactile switches, backlight LEDs and LCD panel. Menu Switches - Honeywell 1TL1-5 Jettison Switch - Honeywell 1TL1-3 Rotary Switch - GrayHill 56D36-01-1-AJN Brightness Pot - Bourns 53AAA-B28-B15L Pricing [TABLE]Item|Description|Cost|Deposit Panel Kit|Acrylic parts cut, engraved but unpainted. Buttons caps painted and engraved.|$45 |$10 Controller Board Kit|Unsoldered but with full parts|$35|$25 Controller Board|Soldered and tested|$50|$25 Full Kit | Panel kit assembled edge painted and wired with switches to controller board|$225|$150[/TABLE] Prices do not include shipping. I will require a deposit for material orders and the rest will be due at shipping. Expected turn around will be 4-8 weeks for PCB manufacturing, material orders and soldering. Obviously panel kits only will be much faster. I will do at max four full kits (this is a lot of work and I'm not charging much as there is $110 in switches/controls included) and two kits are already accounted for. I will take orders up to December 8th and then place material orders.

Glad it looks like you didn't damage your controller. Always double check you power supply before hooking it up to a circuit, both for polarity and to verify it's the correct voltage.