stray cat Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 I think there is a bug with the cyclic. When the mission starts, the control indicators show all centered on the hud item. but when I move the cyclic, it instantly jumps 25% left and down and remains centered on that. I have not changed any of the trim options, and this happens for both the huey and the KA50. Persists after a game and pc restart. Started last night out of nowhere. The stick in question is a thrustmaster t.flight hotas x.
joey45 Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 Have you checked the stick in TM software and re calibrated? The only way to make sense out of change is to plunge into it, move with it, and join the dance. "Me, the 13th Duke of Wybourne, here on the ED forums at 3 'o' clock in the morning, with my reputation. Are they mad.." https://ko-fi.com/joey45
BitMaster Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 Not sure what kind of potentiometers your stick got but this could be wear & tear of your pots as it used to happen quite often on my F22-TQS Thrustmaster combo with mechanical potentiometers. To verify that it is not DCS related, check your sticks/throttle/rudder precision of movement, spiking and offset in Windows Game Controller panel. If you see that your centers are offset, generally coupled with spiking you should do the following: If you dare to work on it, disconnect it and open the housing, locate the 2 pots ( or more if throttle and rudder are effected too ) and clean them with an electro-mechanical cleaning spray especially made for that purpose. You should get that stuff in most home-depot shops or at your favourite electronic parts seller for a few bucks. Drain the Pots with the fluid and let it run out of the pots housing again to wash out any dust from the pickup shoe. Once the fluid comes out in the same colour and no dust mixed into it you are fine. Let it COMPLETELY dry out ( maybe use pressure air ) before connecting it back to the PC. If the pots are too much worn out, you will have to contact Thrustmaster and ask for a repair kit, which they used to send for free back in the days of F22-TQS combos. A soldering iron and some skills are then needed to solder new pots in. Done that many times to keep the F22 in active duty for many flight hours over several years until the PCB broke and I had to replace it. When you solder new pots in, take special care of the center position adjusted by 1 or 2 nuts, the position where the pot is locked to the mounting plate is your CENTRE position and must be adjusted manually by this procedure. It is not uncommon to have to readjust this when the stick is dry and reconnected "online". You may be able to adjust centre position through some software, but if you are too much offset, the actual limits on either sites aka "end of travel" are effected too and you will not have full throw on one of the sides and too much on the other ( like 80% & 120% throw ). If that fixes your issue then you should do this every so and so hours of stick use in the future. Also on the Throttle and Rudder pedals as well. Everywhere where mechanical potentiometers are used this is a common procedure. Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X
msalama Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 thrustmaster t.flight hotas x. FWIW, mine works 100% correctly with both choppers. The DCS Mi-8MTV2. The best aviational BBW experience you could ever dream of.
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