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Posted (edited)

I have just ordered a circuit board that allows me to make toggle switches for FSX, it's called a USB Pulse Generator Model 2120. I ordered it and now I am thinking that DCS may not recognise it as a controller. Does DCS World only recognise certain controllers or do you think this will work? Thanks!

Edited by Dudester22
Posted

I expect it will be seen as another HID and DCS should see it in the options page.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

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Posted
I expect it will be seen as another HID and DCS should see it in the options page.

 

I hope so because this will be brilliant if it works. No messing around dismantling a keyboard to make a toggle switch with this Little circuit board. I am struggling to find a United Kingdom supplier though, so might have to order from the USA. Unless someone else knows of a UK supplier or a similar board?

Posted

Interesting, but I am unsure if that board is optimal for DCS.

 

Found on a website selling those:

2120B.gif

The 2120 will product one pulse when you flip the toggle switch ON. And a second pulse will be generated when the same toggle switch is flipped to OFF.

 

DCS expects toggle switches to be "on" all the time they are in the "on" position. This looks like a "toggle"-switch that is acting like a push button?

Posted

This product sounds like it is designed specifically for sims like FSX where everything is configured for push button controls. While it might be useful in some ways with DCS, for the A-10 it is not going to be of any value.

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Posted (edited)
This product sounds like it is designed specifically for sims like FSX where everything is configured for push button controls. While it might be useful in some ways with DCS, for the A-10 it is not going to be of any value.

 

 

Interesting, but I am unsure if that board is optimal for DCS.

 

Found on a website selling those:

 

 

DCS expects toggle switches to be "on" all the time they are in the "on" position. This looks like a "toggle"-switch that is acting like a push button?

 

They do a number of boards, but would any of them be good for DCS? Do any of these boards allow for the switches to be on all the time? What about model Model 2238-CON that looks like it stays on?

Edited by Dudester22
Posted (edited)
They do a number of boards, but would any of them be good for DCS? Do any of these boards allow for the switches to be on all the time? What about model Model 2238-CON that looks like it stays on?

 

Source? You never said who the vendor is.

 

If it were me, I would get a board from Leo Bodnar (i.e. http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=205 ) (though many around here seem to be having good luck with GP Wiz http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=235 stuff as well).

Edited by cichlidfan

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Posted

I think the Bodnar BBI-32 is a better deal. For Desktop Aviator's stuff, it all looks like you would have to have connectors on the wires coming from the switches. The BBI-32 has separate connectors for each wire right on the board (including a common ground).

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Posted
I think the Bodnar BBI-32 is a better deal. For Desktop Aviator's stuff, it all looks like you would have to have connectors on the wires coming from the switches. The BBI-32 has separate connectors for each wire right on the board (including a common ground).

 

 

Does the Bodnar BBI-32 keep the switches on? I looked at my TN Hotas switches and they do require to be kept on and not just pushed like Flagrum said. Thanks!

Posted (edited)

Yes. Switches connected to that board will act/look exactly the same as the switches on your Warthog, when testing in the Windows Control Panel.

Edited by cichlidfan

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Posted
Yes. Switches connected to that board will act/look exactly the same as the switches on your Warthog, when testing in the Windows Control Panel.

 

Just one more thing if you don't mind. Will this board be just as easy to setup like the one I mentioned? All you do with the one I mentioned was solder the switches and thats it. Can you tell me if this one will be the same? Where I just solder some switches and thats it? Thanks!

Posted

Better, you don't need to solder...unless you want too.

 

Two models available:

Model 1: Solderless, push-in terminals. Everybody's favourite.

Model 2: No terminals but large, clearly marked solder pads on the PCB for direct soldering on. Artisan / budget version.

 

Just connect your switches, plug in a USB cable, and start using it. It will be recognized by Windows just like another joystick (except it has no axis - Bodnar makes a nice board if you want axis too!).

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Posted
Better, you don't need to solder...unless you want too.

 

 

 

Just connect your switches, plug in a USB cable, and start using it. It will be recognized by Windows just like another joystick (except it has no axis - Bodnar makes a nice board if you want axis too!).

 

Thanks :thumbup:

Posted

Just a quick question about the board you recommended the Bodnar BBI-32 . Can you tell me if I would need ON ON switches for this board to work in DCS, or ON Off switches? I saw that Flagrum said that DCS uses a constant On when the switch is in the on position and he is right, but I'm not sure what switches to get now.

Posted (edited)
Just a quick question about the board you recommended the Bodnar BBI-32 . Can you tell me if I would need ON ON switches for this board to work in DCS, or ON Off switches? I saw that Flagrum said that DCS uses a constant On when the switch is in the on position and he is right, but I'm not sure what switches to get now.

That depends on what you want to archieve. You could always use an On-On Switch and just wire it for one On position, making it effectively an On-Off switch. But those switches are more expensive, aren't they?

 

Maybe you should start with your experiements from the other side. Not "What board? Which switches? And what can I do with it?" but "What do I want to archieve? And what do I need for it?" :o)

Edited by Flagrum
Posted
That depends on what you want to archieve. You could always use an On-On Switch and just wire it for one On position, making it effectively an On-Off switch. But those switches are more expensive, aren't they?

 

Maybe you should start with your experiements from the other side. Not "What board? Which switches? And what can I do with it?" but "What do I want to archieve? And what do I need for it?" :o)

 

I have already thought about what I am going to use it for. I want the switches for the A10C, so for things like battery lights and any other switches on the right side of the cockpit. Not to bothered about dials yet, but I'll look at that later once I have the switches sorted out.

 

I am just not sure what switches will work with DCS though, since you pointed it out that DCS uses a constant on control. So are you saying an ON OFF switch will not work because that type of switch will only act like a push button? I'm just confused about what switch to get. I know TM Hotas switches stay on because I checked this in the control properties. But what switches does the TM Hotas use?

Posted

I use 4 bodnar X boards along with Helios (which is free now) and I use rotary encoders, rotary switches, toggle switches and momentary push buttons. And it's all simple to do. There are many threads here that are excellent sources of reference. But yeah the Bodnar X boards are the best and unless you're a soldering sadist are the easiest to connect.

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Posted
I have already thought about what I am going to use it for. I want the switches for the A10C, so for things like battery lights and any other switches on the right side of the cockpit. Not to bothered about dials yet, but I'll look at that later once I have the switches sorted out.

 

I am just not sure what switches will work with DCS though, since you pointed it out that DCS uses a constant on control. So are you saying an ON OFF switch will not work because that type of switch will only act like a push button? I'm just confused about what switch to get. I know TM Hotas switches stay on because I checked this in the control properties. But what switches does the TM Hotas use?

What I meant was, look at the switches in the cockpit itself. There are several different ones. Most of them are On/Off switches - they have two possible positions and one of it is the "on" position. You can replicate that with your controller board that sends a constant signal if such a On/Off switch is in the "On" position.

Then there are several three position switches, like the LASTE autopilot "Path-Alt/Hdg-Alt". In the real aircraft this is probably something like a "on-on-on" switch - one of three wires is always energized depending on the actual position of the switch. I am sure, there are also "On-On" switches - but I can't think of an example right now. That is what I meant with planing first - look at the switches in the cockpit that you want to replicate.

 

ps: concerning the 3 way "on-on-on" switches: the TM Warthog HOTAS uses in fact "on-off-on" 3-position switches because DCS itself knows (or can be told in the controller configuration) that if neither the pos-1 nor pos3 is "on" then the switch can only be in position 2.

Posted

Both HUD day/night and HUD standby/normal would be ON/ON in the real A-10c amongst others but again these can be also be normal ON/OFF toggles switches when used with Helios.

Flagrum do you think that these TM hog ON/OFF/ON switches are Lua controlled then? As we obviously don't use any other software to make them work properly (as the autopilot mode switch) and if that's the case can the DCS script code be changed accordingly for the likes of using new switch boards rather than using other software like Helios?

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Thrustmaster Warthog - 47608 with Virpil Mongoose joystick base | MFG Crosswinds - 1241 | Westland Lynx collective with Bodnar X board | Pilot's seat from ZH832 Merlin | JetSeat | Oculus Rift S | Windows 10 | VA |

Posted
Both HUD day/night and HUD standby/normal would be ON/ON in the real A-10c amongst others but again these can be also be normal ON/OFF toggles switches when used with Helios.

Flagrum do you think that these TM hog ON/OFF/ON switches are Lua controlled then? As we obviously don't use any other software to make them work properly (as the autopilot mode switch) and if that's the case can the DCS script code be changed accordingly for the likes of using new switch boards rather than using other software like Helios?

The way the controller configuration works is quite flexible. Those configurations were stored as LUA files (up to 1.2.7, now they changed it for 1.2.8, but the priciples still apply) and you could activate a cockpit function in several ways.

 

For example, you can assign the function "iCommandPlaneStabHbarHeading" (LASTE AP ALT/HDG, the middle position of the switch) to the "down" action of any button or switch. Or you can assign the function "iCommand_LASTE_from_ALT_to_ALTHDG" to the "up" action of a switch.

 

This means, when a switch is going to the off-state or a button is released, DCS knows that now the AP ALT/HDG is to be enabled although the device does not send any signal. This example is actually used with the TM Warthog Throttle for the on-off-on (read: PATH-off-ALT) switch of the AP. When that switch is in the PATH position and is now switched to the middle position, then this is the mentioned "up" action from "PATH" to off. For the other case (switch is initially set to HDG), it is configured the same (switching from HDG to off = "up" action for the HDG position = iCommand_LASTE_from_ALT_to_ALTHDG is sent to DCS).

 

How this relates to Helios or not, I can not say - I have zero experience with Helios.

Posted

That's interesting, I'll look further into that at some point. Especially when the hornet comes out and there are no ready made profiles for Helios! Thanks Flagrum

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Thrustmaster Warthog - 47608 with Virpil Mongoose joystick base | MFG Crosswinds - 1241 | Westland Lynx collective with Bodnar X board | Pilot's seat from ZH832 Merlin | JetSeat | Oculus Rift S | Windows 10 | VA |

Posted
Interesting, but I am unsure if that board is optimal for DCS.

 

Found on a website selling those:

 

 

DCS expects toggle switches to be "on" all the time they are in the "on" position. This looks like a "toggle"-switch that is acting like a push button?

 

I think I might be getting confused with the 2120 board here. Where you pointed out that the On Off switch on that board acts like a pulse and is not optimal for DCS. I have now purchased the Bodnar BBI-32 and I assume this board doesn't act like a pulse when using an On Off switch, but instead stays on when placed in the On position, is this correct? Most of the switches on the right side of the A10C are On Off switches and these are the ones I want to mimic.

Posted
I think I might be getting confused with the 2120 board here. Where you pointed out that the On Off switch on that board acts like a pulse and is not optimal for DCS. I have now purchased the Bodnar BBI-32 and I assume this board doesn't act like a pulse when using an On Off switch, but instead stays on when placed in the On position, is this correct? Most of the switches on the right side of the A10C are On Off switches and these are the ones I want to mimic.

 

Hi, i have bbi-32 And it stays on if you use on-off switches that stay on :)

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Posted (edited)

I got the Bodnar BBI-32 board and the On Off switches, but now I have ran straight into a problem. I placed one wire in B17 and one in GND on the board and then went to set the Battery power switch in the controls of DCS. The problem now is that the Battery only has one function in the control section which is called Battery power. There is no Battery power ON & Off option so all my switch does is switch On but not Off. I have to switch it on two times for it to switch Off. Can someone tell me if there is a way around this? Thanks!

 

Update: Another problem I found is when a switch does have an On Off function, like the APU start. Then only the On switch works in the Sims cockpit. When I turn my switch to Off, it just remains On in the Sims cockpit. Any ideas anyone?

Edited by Dudester22
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