WildBillKelsoe Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 I just had a good nap and in my nap I thought, if the HP100A 10,000 ohm (10K) pot is so sensitive for the huey, in a CH pro pedal setup, why not change that pot to something more practical for the given range of motion (be it a 500 ohm - 0.5 K , 1K, 5K?) I find that the rudder can be twitchy sometimes because 10 K is alot of range, so either extend the groove on the unit (headaches), OR, switch to a lower range pot(but work the pedal even more). What do you guys think? AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
WildBillKelsoe Posted August 30, 2015 Author Posted August 30, 2015 So my concept is, if getting 2/8 of left rudder motion requires maybe 2.5 cm of CH real travel, it can require maybe 5 cm on a less ohm pot but the sensitivity should be higher, at least around the edges. AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.
1.JaVA_Platypus Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) The resistance of the pot doesn't matter really. It is important to use a linear one. Not a stereo potentiometer that is inteded to go into audio mixing panels. You only must calibrate every new pot in windows. Just as you would do with every new controller you connect. A resistance anywhere between 10K and 100K is okay. USB controllers only look at the difference in voltage, not the resistance itself. twitchiness might be reduced by playing with the curves and saturation of your axis in DCS UH-1. After you check the calibration in the windows gaming controllers. Believe me, I know. ;) Edited August 30, 2015 by 1.JaVA_Platypus Happy Flying! :pilotfly:
1.JaVA_Platypus Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Of course it is possible that the potentiometer wears out after a while. You can try to clean it, but that requires lots of work and taking the thing apart. There is Always the danger that you break it, or a tiny part gets lost. So it is best to replace the potentiometer with a new one. They are not expensive. Happy Flying! :pilotfly:
Sokol1_br Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) just had a good nap and in my nap I thought, if the HP100A 10,000 ohm (10K) pot is so sensitive for the huey, in a CH pro pedal setup, why not change that pot to something more practical for the given range of motion (be it a 500 ohm - 0.5 K , 1K, 5K?) That pot' - if not fault - is OK for rudder control, but the 8 bits (256 resolution points) obsolete USB 1.1 CH controller... :music_whistling: Edited August 31, 2015 by Sokol1_br
1.JaVA_Platypus Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 256 point resolution? It is extremly low. Most USB controllers are on a 1024 bit resolution nowadays. Yes? My advice: get new rudder pedals. Or find a way to connect the old pedals to a new controller. Possibly from a second-hand joystick on E-bay. Happy Flying! :pilotfly:
Sokol1_br Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 My advice: get new rudder pedals. Or find a way to connect the old pedals to a new controller. Possibly from a second-hand joystick on E-bay. In that case better buy a BU0836 - 12 bits (4096 resolution points), or a Arduino PRO Micro (ATMEGA 32u4) and write in then the firmware MMJoy2 (via USB cable) 12 bits. And replace the old controller with this new.
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