Maltloaf Posted November 17, 2016 Posted November 17, 2016 Hi to all you electronic gurus, I know you are out there (Sokol and Debolestis spring to mind). I have built several joystick using Leo Bodnar’s PCBs ect but currently someone wants me to build a new grip for his TM Warthog. The mechanics of it are no issue but I could do with some help with the PCB. I don’t want to use the existing one as the whole point is to be able to switch from Fast Jest to Warbird by simply unscrewing the grip. I have been searching the forums and it looks like someone has made some boards but I can’t track them down. Any ideas? Getting boards made is not a problem, there are guys I work with that can do that.
Sokol1_br Posted November 17, 2016 Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) "Piece of Cake!" You need a Shift Register board inside you "Warbird" grip - like the one inside Warghog, based on CD4021 chip. So this grip became "PnP" in Warthog base. Debolestis draw PCB - you can order on OSPark, or DIY one - and already tested this boards, see there, well explained: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2943388&postcount=128 Edited November 17, 2016 by Sokol1_br
Maltloaf Posted November 18, 2016 Author Posted November 18, 2016 Brilliant! Just what I needed. Thanks.
debolestis Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 What grip do you have in mind? - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Maltloaf Posted November 18, 2016 Author Posted November 18, 2016 Mk1a Spit. I make full floor mounted ones with the articulation in the middle but some warthog owners thought it would be cool to swap their grips so I am making a Spit grip for them and the PCB will go in the 100mm extention
debolestis Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 Ok, how many switches in the grip? - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Sokol1_br Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) Typically Mk.I "spade" need 1 button for MG's and 1 for brake lever - if not used axis for brake, although RL Spit brakes seems used more as "on/off" (YT video). And (optional) 1 button for camera. For Mk.V or IX (or latter) one more button in "BBC" trigger for cannons. Edited November 18, 2016 by Sokol1_br
debolestis Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 In that case 1 chip shift register will work. HERE is the link for a PCB. Only question is there enough room inside for it. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Maltloaf Posted November 18, 2016 Author Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) I normally use 1 fire button and a 4 way hat on the camera button. Your board is 25mm across, that will fit into the 100mm extension which has an internal diameter of exactly that. The brake needs an axis so unless your magic PCB can handle that they will have to go brakeless! Edited November 18, 2016 by Maltloaf
debolestis Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 If you have 4way then I recommend 2 chip PCB, than it will be plug and play. I cannot help you with brake. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Maltloaf Posted November 18, 2016 Author Posted November 18, 2016 :)Thanks again. Will let you know how I get on.
Sokol1_br Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 The brake needs an axis so unless your magic PCB can handle that they will have to go brakeless! Warthog base handle only 2 axis, what make difficult use a axis in brake handle, although a Teeensy/PRO Micro board can be fitet inside this 10 cm tube easily to provide a extra axis, but will need run their USB cable external do Warthog pole. But better use a button for brake than make a "brakeless" spade. :) This 3D drawing for example is for use button under brake lever: http://spitfirejoystick.blogspot.com.br/ In DCSW has little difference in brake with axis or/key button - in this case the brake force is not applied instantly(ON/OFF), but increase at given rate.
Maltloaf Posted November 18, 2016 Author Posted November 18, 2016 I think the guys I am building it for have other axis dedicated to the brake and they fly Cliffs of Dover as well as DCS. Touch a button brake in CLoD on a Spit and you remodel the prop instantly! I can certainly set up a button similar to the one you suggest if they want it. I will ask them. It is an easy mod to make afterwards as well, thanks for the suggestion.
Sokol1_br Posted November 18, 2016 Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) Yes, the guy that use this kind o grip on Warthog already have a brake solution, like fake "toe brakes" for British planes via joy soft. My point is just that is simple fit a button in brake handle and this can be use as button for other function - park brake maybe?. ;) BTW - I always brake with button in CLOD and ending learn save the propeller. :) And as use T-Rudder, use that "virtual axis brakes" on joy button for brake in DCSW. Edited November 18, 2016 by Sokol1_br
Maltloaf Posted December 21, 2016 Author Posted December 21, 2016 Quick update. All the bits arrived from China today so I fired up the soldering iron and got to work. The two boards I need are done and work! The rest is all mechanical so I am back in my comfort zone Thanks chaps, will post a photo when done.
Maltloaf Posted January 1, 2017 Author Posted January 1, 2017 OK, progress. I promised I would post when I had something to show. Here are a couple of pics of the prototype. Seems to work well. The PCB fits perfectly inside the shaft.
debolestis Posted January 1, 2017 Posted January 1, 2017 Great work!!! - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal
Sokol1_br Posted January 1, 2017 Posted January 1, 2017 WoW! The thing looks "heavy metal". Good job. :) Just curious, and the 'hand brake"? :)
Maltloaf Posted January 2, 2017 Author Posted January 2, 2017 Thanks chaps. Verdict on the handbrake has not been decided. I have one I can cast from and clearly there are enough ports to connect the switch to. I need to test these ones (I built two) and I may add the handbrake to one. Also it looks like some of the chaps who want one are after the rocker gun firing switch from the Mk V rather than the Mk I so that may be a higher priority than the hand brake.
hansangb Posted January 2, 2017 Posted January 2, 2017 How does one use the spade grip? Grab it like a small wheel? hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
Sokol1_br Posted January 2, 2017 Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Depends on pilot this grab on vertical, most time. This - in cruise - grab the upper part of the wheel, more natural position for the hand, similar to use fire buttons. But in landing more vertical. https://youtu.be/onnF2QSrEUc?t=27 Edited January 2, 2017 by Sokol1_br
Maltloaf Posted January 2, 2017 Author Posted January 2, 2017 It was fairly standard on all RAF ac from about 1920 until the jet age. It meant you could get both hands on the stick easily if that was required and swapping from right hand to left hand was easier which was particularly useful in the early Spits as you took off right-handed with the left on the throttle and then swapped straightway to left handed so you could pump the undercarriage up with the left. Not sure it was better as no other country adopted it so universally
Sokol1_br Posted January 2, 2017 Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Most Russian Fighters of WWII use a kind of "Spade" - but more "square". Latter some 1st line fighters became use a copy of Luftwaffe KG-12/13-B grip, use that extended to Mig-15 and other jets/trainers. BTW - This guy use a kind of Spit stick in games. Articulated in the middle and with "Spade". https://youtu.be/QI7Y8dSjUls https://forum.warthunder.ru/index.php?/topic/147338-%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%BB%D1%83%D1%88%D1%82%D1%83%D1%80%D0%B2%D0%B0%D0%BB-%D0%B0%D0%BB%D1%8F-%D1%81%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%82%D1%84%D0%B0%D0%B5%D1%80/&page=4 Edited January 2, 2017 by Sokol1_br
Maltloaf Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 MkV So here is Mk2 (or should it be MkV due to the cannon buttons). I have added a brake lever on a Hall Effect switch. Clearly it is a switch on a Wart Hog but would be an axis on a standalone using a Leo B PCB or similar. The Hat Switches include a push button function so if you include the 45 degree positions on the right hand Hat Switch that adds up to 17 functions! To be honest, the Hat Switches were the worst problem. Any you can buy cost £40 each at the very least. So I made these. It is an Alps PCB mounted unit (£1.95 ish) set in a resin mould. Pain to set up but once I made the mould and got a run going I can produce a few fairly quickly. There are now two MK1s in use with friends for the past year and they are going strong. This latest one goes out to a friend today so I will get feedback from him as to useability and how it all works.
Sokol1_br Posted February 25, 2018 Posted February 25, 2018 Very good. :thumbup: Nice solution in the double camera button, add functions but keep the visual. :) Can add the catch for keep brake handle on parked position. BTW - For brake lever axis, use a $2 STM32, a L.Bodnar for this job is overkill. The "Spade" you use is that cast grip from eBay or 3D printed?
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