VKB MK IV T-Rudder New Owners and Veterans Q&A

[nzteddy]

Hi there, I'm obsessed with the helicopters in DCS atm, so I'm trying to get my setup to suit helo's. For that I need the pedals to stay in position when feet removed. I've loosened the spring off as much as possible, but it can't be removed, it has to have a spring for the cam to work. I see some people have modded MFG crosswinds with hydraulic dampers. Has anyone heard of a similar thing for the t-rudder, or any idea on how to achieve the same effect?

[haz]

I used a wooden pad under the base. (I did not want to drill holes in the base). It needs some fine-tuning. There is no space for mounting there, bolts are too close too the edge, so the pad flex up to 0,5mm. It has to be turned into metal or replaced by longer one, the heel pads need to be replaced then...Apart from the fact that the pad flex a little it works great. A HUGE increase in precision. There is no center "floppiness" now. I use it for fixed wing. It can be turned to helo setup easy without dismonting by tighten the TENSIONER screw (tiny hole in the side of the base) and setting required damper "power".    

I used the same damper as with the MFG Replika Gear crosswind upgrade. (I recomend it to all MFG users)  

You attach the damper to the central mounting that you have to do yourself, the end of the mounting can be purchased with the motorcycle damper kit (marked in green).

A some kind of gantry is also needed so that the damper does not fall on the base.

You also need a longer screw that comes out of the CAM, a set of nuts and washers ...

I wonder what effect will be created when the damper is mounted the opposing direction, but it is probably better to have the damper weight connected to the CAM instead of to the base. It has a more heavy/mechanical feel. it is also parallel to the base in the latter case it would have to be at an angle.

 

 

Edited March 16, 2021 by haz

[Mistermann]

Jumping in here to say, I have been using these for a couple of weeks and love them. 

 

They are my first set of pedals, so I have nothing to compare against.  Took a little more than a week to arrive to the US from China.  Great ordering experience.

 

As others have noted they were plug and play.  Took them out of the box, tightened the lock nuts on the cam, and plugged them in.  Went into DCS control config and that's it.  Easy peasy.

 

Aside from the added immersion, these are built like a tank.  All metal aside from the plastic adapter for the RJ-45 cable. 

 

If you're in the market for rudder pedals, and aren't hung up on toe breaks, look no further.

 

As a happy customer I am definitely considering VKB devices to round out my search for a high end HOTAS (have the TM16000 HOTAS today).

Edited May 5, 2021 by Mistermann

[YeaImRota]

On 3/16/2021 at 4:35 AM, haz said:

I used a wooden pad under the base. (I did not want to drill holes in the base). It needs some fine-tuning. There is no space for mounting there, bolts are too close too the edge, so the pad flex up to 0,5mm. It has to be turned into metal or replaced by longer one, the heel pads need to be replaced then...Apart from the fact that the pad flex a little it works great. A HUGE increase in precision. There is no center "floppiness" now. I use it for fixed wing. It can be turned to helo setup easy without dismonting by tighten the TENSIONER screw (tiny hole in the side of the base) and setting required damper "power".    

I used the same damper as with the MFG Replika Gear crosswind upgrade. (I recomend it to all MFG users)  

You attach the damper to the central mounting that you have to do yourself, the end of the mounting can be purchased with the motorcycle damper kit (marked in green).

A some kind of gantry is also needed so that the damper does not fall on the base.

You also need a longer screw that comes out of the CAM, a set of nuts and washers ...

I wonder what effect will be created when the damper is mounted the opposing direction, but it is probably better to have the damper weight connected to the CAM instead of to the base. It has a more heavy/mechanical feel. it is also parallel to the base in the latter case it would have to be at an angle.

 

This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for! Thank you so much! Is there a specific seller you bought the damper kit from? 

 

[haz]

1 hour ago, YeaImRota said:

 

Is there a specific seller you bought the damper kit from? 

 

 

Speeding PRO Motorcycle Store

on AliEx

Edited May 10, 2021 by haz

[YeaImRota]

4 minutes ago, haz said:

 

Speeding PRO Motorcycle Store

on AliEx

 

 

Thank you! I just ordered one.

 

Could you provide some details about how you made the connection here? Did you replace the stud on the cam itself with a much longer one?

[haz]

 

 

 

 

Yep. This is the same bolt that comes out of the CAM, only longer. This Upgrade is fully reversible.

 

You have to unscrew the bolt from the CAM and go to the "bolt shop" and find a longer replacement. (With a same type of thread) You have to check if the new longer bolt fits the CAM thread.

 

In my case, the original short bolt was also glued, but finally I managed to unscrew it.

 

I recommend using a longer and wider wooden pad and additional bolts for mounting.("non-bending" metal pad would be best) (green lines on images 01 02)
In the last version, I have it the width of the pedals exactly to fill the range of oblong holes at the bottom.
But You just gonna get rid of heelpads. The structure is more stable then. You also need to attach some anti-skid skickers like the original has if the peddals will sit on the floor.

 

The gasket that needs to be inserted between the bolt and the damper is problematic. I haven't found the right size in the store. So I wrapped the screw with the strips of paper and duct tape. (green tube on image 03)

 

 

(...) how long of a bolt did you buy? -58mm without a head but it's a bit too long
(...) can measure the inner diameter of the hole?  -8mm diameter
sizes are not 100% accurate (based on my pencil sketches)

 

 

Edited May 12, 2021 by haz

[YeaImRota]

Awesome! 

 

I really appreciate the tips. I'll probably hit the cam with a little heat to loosen the bolt and take it to buy a new one. It looks like it's about double the length based on your picture. 

[YeaImRota]

@haz

 

Do you happen to know the thread size for the extended bolt? And how long of a bolt did you buy? I'm looking at these binding barrels as a way to potentially fill that space where it goes through the damper. Do you have a caliper that can measure the inner diameter of the hole? Just curious. My damper shows up Friday but if I can get a head start on ordering the right hardware I'd like to do so soon. I'll also report back if I can find some sort of sleeve that will fill that gap inside. 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/steel-sleeve-bolts/steel-binding-barrels/

[onlinetk]

I looked at the dampers in the video, I think they are very firm. doesn't that need too much power for the pedals?

[haz]

Damping force is ok. There is a Damping -/+ rotary on damper (setup the damping force)

Edited October 11, 2021 by haz

[onlinetk]

I know, but in the video of the shop the soft step also looks very hard from the motion sequence

[oltim]

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/15133-vkb-mk-iv-t-rudder-установка-демпфера/