Please help with the control settings

[ebabil]

Hi

I have Uh1, mi8, mi24 and apache. I am using MSFFB2 for only my helis along with TMHWH throttle and ch pro pedals (with spring)

I don't have any problem with all my helis but AH64. All of them can fly almost on their own and the are very stable after trimming.

But I am having difficulties with apache. It always leans left or right all the time and it is very sensitive.

Am I doing something wrong with the special settings in the options menu? 

[Floyd1212]

There's not a whole lot of info there describing when/where you are experiencing issues, or how you have your controls setup.

• What are your current settings in the Special Options Menu?  Screenshot?
• How to you have your axis tuned?  Curves or flat?
• is your problem when trying to hover, or during forward flight?
• Can you fly fine when you don't use Trim?

[ebabil]

I have added screenshot

I think curves or deadzone don't effective with msffb2 because it responds any tiny movement despite big curve and deadzone

During both hovering and straight flight

Without trim it feels worse

[Poptart]

Do your controls jitter when you have the Ctrl+Enter graph up?

[j-tk]

The Apache will always crab a little to the left, so you'll always be compensating for that a little.  Her flight computer gets pissy if you don't do what it wants, so for precise control you may need to go for 0 dead one, or expand it under settings to get what feels right for you.

Good luck buddy!

[ebabil]

9 hours ago, Poptart said:

Do your controls jitter when you have the Ctrl+Enter graph up?

No it doesn'T

 

8 hours ago, j-tk said:

The Apache will always crab a little to the left, so you'll always be compensating for that a little.  Her flight computer gets pissy if you don't do what it wants, so for precise control you may need to go for 0 dead one, or expand it under settings to get what feels right for you.

Good luck buddy!

If you mean lateral movements , I am ok with crabbing because Uh-1 also always makes smilar movements and I comphensate it with a constant rudder. But apache feels very twichy. Especially take offs are disaster. And I remember doing even a barrel roll while trying to turn at 80 kts.

Other thing is, when I hit trim button with other helis, I feel force feedback reposition the stick. But with the apache trim button doesn't do same thing or no force feedback at all

Edited August 6, 2022 by ebabil

[Scaley]

Have you tried the trim mode called "Instant Trim (FFB Friendly)". From the name I would guess that's the one designed for FFB joysticks.

[RodBorza]

20 hours ago, ebabil said:

Hi

I have Uh1, mi8, mi24 and apache. I am using MSFFB2 for only my helis along with TMHWH throttle and ch pro pedals (with spring)

I don't have any problem with all my helis but AH64. All of them can fly almost on their own and the are very stable after trimming.

But I am having difficulties with apache. It always leans left or right all the time and it is very sensitive.

Am I doing something wrong with the special settings in the options menu? 

I don't have a Force Feedback controller, but Scaley answer might help you.

Regarding curves, mines are at 30 for Pitch and roll and no curvature for rudder. The secret with rudder is to lower the Saturation value and use no curves. None at all. I lowered the saturation to 80 and it helped a lot. Of course, she still very difficult to takeoff, and gets squirly at low altitudes. You need a light touch with her. Regarding takeoffs, the best thing is to put on collective very slowly until you are light on wheels, then push it more decisively and she'll takeoff. Otherwise she'll rol and you  will have a dynamic rollover on your hands. Not good.

Also, the SCAS is there to help you but sometimes it will try to kill you. In a chopper like the Huey you input pedal, turn, then take out the same quantity of inputted rudder to stop the movement. In the Apache you input rudder, turn, and then start to slowly taking out rudder until you stop. And you don't take out the same amount you had put in, because the SCAS will start compensating as soon as you turn. It takes time and practice to learn how to work with the computer but can be done.

[DishDoggie]

Rudder pedals I feel are according to type you have. I had Logitech's and they worked fine on normal axis settings. But then moved to MFG Crosswind. I had to set the Crosswind up as a slider that solved all my New Rudder problems of way to much input from the new Crosswind pedals. Now on Slider setting with zero dead zone all x, y set to zero I am back to normal again.

Edited August 6, 2022 by DishDoggie

[Floyd1212]

4 hours ago, RodBorza said:

Regarding curves, mines are at 30 for Pitch and roll and no curvature for rudder. The secret with rudder is to lower the Saturation value and use no curves. None at all. I lowered the saturation to 80 and it helped a lot.

I echo this advice. 

My cyclic curves are 15, with Y-saturation of 90, but I have a 20cm extension; without it, I would probably increase my curves. 

I also reduced the Y-saturation on my pedals to 80.  You might be tempted to apply a curve to the pedals, but don't.  If you apply a curve, you will have more sensitivity around the 50% mark, but that's not where you want it.  You would want increased sensitivity around the 25% mark for hovering.

[Scaley]

Whether a pedal curve will help will depend on what trim mode you are using for pedals. If you have it set so you trim and re-centre the pedals (as in, with a spring in place) then a curve MAY be useful. If you have it set to that you do not re-centre your physical pedals (aka no spring) then a curve will NOT help since, like Floyd has said, you won't be at the centre position when you are in the hover.

Personally I have 90% Y saturation on pedals, and 80% on cyclic. No curves. This in on Virpil pedals with the spring removed, and virpil CM-50 base with the softest springs and a 10cm extension. The biggest tip I have is actually to do with control settings, but more physical control layout. Try, if you possibly can, to put your stick somewhere you can rest your forearm on a surface while flying, so you only move your hand/wrist/fingers. This normally means getting the stick mounted down low not on your desk.

[Floyd1212]

46 minutes ago, Scaley said:

Whether a pedal curve will help will depend on what trim mode you are using for pedals.

Very true.  I hadn't considered self-centering pedals with springs since I removed the spring from mine right after I pulled them out of the box.  A curve in that situation would be worth trying out.