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Posted (edited)

Hi all

It occurred to me that I never actually posted pictures of the finished pedals, so here they are. The work really well, are super smooth and feel right too

 

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Hope you like them

 

Les

Edited by lesthegrngo
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Posted
On 10/13/2022 at 3:08 PM, lesthegrngo said:

Here are the old and new electrical panels; the difference in the size of the switches is massive. I obvioulsy have to paint the new version's backplate 

Les

20221013_160713.jpg

 

Nice work! Which brand and models are those (both types)? Could you post links?

Posted

The switches are all from Ebay, basically search for Toggle switch and you will see the types in the pictures below. They come in various flavours, and can be modified as well. The most common ones for the larger types are On-On, On-Off-On and (On) Off (On) where you have to hold the switch in the on position and it will release when you let it go. 

For the smaller ones, you can get On-On, On -Off- On but not the momentary type where you hold them in place for on. However the smaller ones can be available in a special type (I think they are classified as MTS-2) where they are six pole, but working in opposite ways - to explain, this means when the switch is in the 'up' position, one side is on, the other side is off, when the switch is in the down position, this reverses. However when in the centre position, the switch will continue to be connected so one side the top connection is still connected, and the other side has the bottom connection connected. This is really useful if you need a three position On-On-On switch, which you can achieve by connecting in a certain way.

The other advantage of the smaller switches is that they can be soldered directly to a PCB, which in space constrained situations really can help. My CMSP has them for this purpose

I have modified the switches so that I can use my own toggle switch covers, as you can see in the pictures. They are a bit of a faff, but once done are really worth it as painted up they look great and add a bit extra

 

20230819_083127.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Almost finished. I now have the correct viewport setup, plus Helios working so now have the MFCD's exported correctly, the CDU on it's own little screen, plus the ADI, HSI, ASI and RWR all nicely showing in their correct spots. I managed to get DCS Bios running alongside Helios, and while there are a couple of minor glitches I am very happy with it. 

I have a few questions, for example how to open all the com ports necessary as a batch, and how I can regain the external view that used to be obtained using alt-F1, but now does not work. I can't find the view in the control listing to try and bind it

I also need to sort the Altimeter, as it doesn't want to play with RS485

Hope you like it

20230922_115118.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted
2 hours ago, lesthegrngo said:

Almost finished. I now have the correct viewport setup, plus Helios working so now have the MFCD's exported correctly, the CDU on it's own little screen, plus the ADI, HSI, ASI and RWR all nicely showing in their correct spots. I managed to get DCS Bios running alongside Helios, and while there are a couple of minor glitches I am very happy with it. 

I have a few questions, for example how to open all the com ports necessary as a batch, and how I can regain the external view that used to be obtained using alt-F1, but now does not work. I can't find the view in the control listing to try and bind it

I also need to sort the Altimeter, as it doesn't want to play with RS485

Hope you like it

20230922_115118.jpg

 

First words that came to mind "wow"!

Awesome job.

  • Like 1

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Posted

Thanks for that!

for all the people out there trying to do something like this, please bear in mind that without the help of lots of people on this forum I would not be anywhere. I urge anyone who wants to try something like this to engage with the forum and ask their questions without being embarrassed that they might look daft. We all had to start without knowing anything 

to name just a few, Vincvega, No1sonuk, Hansolo, Middlefart, Craig, all have contributed to this with patient, helpful answers. Apologies to anyone I missed out, but a quick look at my posts will show just how many people helped this project 

 Cheers 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I know that this is essentially finished, but I'm always spotting little bits that I'm not 100% happy with. It would need either improvement or a complete replacement,  with some that would require a lot of work, and others that are not so much. Today it was the turn of the armament panel, one of the easier ones. 

I've modified the switches for better feel, plus added painted 3D printed covers to the relevant ones to match the ones in game. Additionally,  rather than use a nano to drive them, I'm using some spare bodnar board pins 

I need to replace the M2 allen head bolts with countersunk ones to neaten it up

***Edit***  The GUN/PAC has two ARM settings..... Doh! Off to redo the fascia

Cheers 

Les

20231104_081223.jpg

Edited by lesthegrngo
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
Am 4.11.2023 um 06:27 schrieb lesthegrngo:

I know that this is essentially finished, but I'm always spotting little bits that I'm not 100% happy with. It would need either improvement or a complete replacement,  with some that would require a lot of work, and others that are not so much. Today it was the turn of the armament panel, one of the easier ones. 

I've modified the switches for better feel, plus added painted 3D printed covers to the relevant ones to match the ones in game. Additionally,  rather than use a nano to drive them, I'm using some spare bodnar board pins 

I need to replace the M2 allen head bolts with countersunk ones to neaten it up

***Edit***  The GUN/PAC has two ARM settings..... Doh! Off to redo the fascia

Cheers 

Les

20231104_081223.jpg

Hey @lesthegrngo, regarding your "painted 3D printed covers", how did you manage to fixate them on the toggle levers? Epoxy glue? Or are these expensive toggles, from which you can screw off the lever caps?

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Posted

It's actually really simple, at least for the small variety - I resin printed them, and before they are fully cured I push them onto the lever. When you let them cure in UV light, they shrink a little and then hold on due to the geometry of the lever.

For the larger toggle switches, it's a bit more complicated. I took the switches apart, and put the levers on my little lathe and turned the lever so it was 5mm diameter straight shaft instead of slightly conical. You then put the switch back together, then do the same as for the little switches, just push the uncured resin caps on and do the curing process

If want pictures of how to do it I can try and do some

Les

 

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