HELP! MS FFB2 "on steroids" resistor mod gone wrong?

[Ganesh]

Hello aviators and MS sidewinder experts,

now i need your help! Today i made the resistor mod. i.e. soldering 8 SMD 1 ohm resistors "piggyback" to the existing ones to double the current FFB power.
After reassembly, i immediately noticed the immense increase in strength on the stick, which is really brutal.
Unfortunately i now have the following problem:
When the power is connected, the stick immediately pulls to the left with all its strength and stays there.

I can move it with the necessary force, but it constantly pulls full power to the left. Of course, this also means that the motor that is responsible for the movement of this axis runs extremely hot. So I didn't leave it energized for long.

I opened it up again and checked everything. I don't know where the error is.
Soldering of the resistors was relatively easy and as far as i can see it is correct. I've also checked the calibration and it's still correct i.e. Windows game controller shows me full deflection to the left.

I've also been using the stick for many years with the original power (and with an arcaze which has nothing to do with motor-behavior) and i can't remember any behavior like that (except in connection with a running software like simFFB, DCS false ffb/trimm setings ect.. )
Does anyone have an idea what could have gone wrong?
Did i miss something?

Edited June 11, 2023 by Ganesh

[Ganesh]

I looked at the picture very carefully again, and it could be that i got too close to C71 when installing R86. Here is something suspiciously close to the trace that would short out the capacitor.

Will take a closer look with the magnifying glass...

Update: No it wasn't C71, checked the whole PCB again, "unfortunately" everything looks fine.
Will probably have to install the PCB from my replacement next...

Edited June 12, 2023 by Ganesh
Update

[Ganesh]

Puhh... so the replacement PCB works with my "Frankenstick".

Now i'm seriously considering doing the Resistor Mod again...
because if that goes wrong again, i'm without a stick and that's a really bad situation for pilots and men alike.

But i can start first installing an on/off switch.
Since i dismantled the original stick, i also removed its origiginal wiring and mini pcb with the light barrier. I vaguely remember that the lightbarrier was on the outer pins pink/black or was it grey/white?

Could i insert a switch here... e.g. for "pink/black"? on the pins of the long 11-pin male socket on the PCB? (which is free anyway if you remove the original grip)
Is that even possible without the little circuit board inside the original Grip where the light barrier is on it?
Seen in this way, a light barrier is also just a switch, so it could work, right?

Edited June 12, 2023 by Ganesh

[Ganesh]

He survived and finally got his on/off switch. Btw. it was the grey/white pair.
Because i was just on drilling, i added an extra 3-way switch, which i will soon assign to chassis buttons.

But today i'm not soldering anymore, i'm finally looking at the Sinai Map. The Huey also flies with normal FFB power and that's why i'm still considering the 1 ohm resistors...

As I said, the "piggyback resistor action" wasn't difficult, but it went wrong, for whatever reason

Edited June 13, 2023 by Ganesh

[crash test pilot]

Hi! I was looking at your pcb and two spots hit my eye:

1. Is this a shorting?

2. Is this contact ok?

Maybe you check with a multimeter... Good luck!

[petsild]

Hello,
some time has passed, so I want to ask if the defect was solved after adding resistors?